One thing that i see cause harm is the way you have the hydraulic cable in your video draped over the top, right under the car. if, for whatever reason, the car slips off of the rubber block, it will potentially cut the line and you will lose hydraulic pressure and the car will come down fast. I know someone had already mentioned it, but they didn't say why.
Great tip on orienting the QuickJacks based on the engine location. Just bought a 5000TL kit and will be raising both front and rear-engined cars. Will reorient the QuickJacks accordingly!
I've watched about 15 of these videos now, and this guy without a doubt is the most impressive of them all. Even mentioning using jackstands as a precaution so matter-of-factly considering what could happen if there was a failure by either Quickjack shows his concern for safety. Better to be safe than sorry!!!! This guy is humble too, refreshing in today's world. Well done, Sir!!!!
I bought the newer 5000TL. They spaced out the minimum contact points farther out than the 5000SLX model, and now my C7 corvette can only be lifted on 3/4 of each puck. 🤦♂️
Great video, ive owned my quick jacks for about 7 years now and love them. Definitely not a tool i use every time im working on something but nice to have when you need them. Good idea with the positioning of the jacks depending on vehicle mass. I usually set them up where i can pull my car in all the way and when it lifts it pulls the car/truck back away from the wall. I work on a lot of older vw's so the weight hanging over the jack vs behind it is a great idea. Ive also used the jack to lift the car sideways which quickjack actually put up on their facebook
Just got a 5000TL and am reviewing the steps before assembly. Thanks for the physical orientation of the unit. Didn't exactly realize that depending on your front vs. rear engine setup that the Quickjack is essentially unidirectional depending upon engine/weight configuration. Most cars with front engine setup should utilize your configuration.
As far as orientation... that is what he said or as the lift rises the hydraulic cylinder points up to the engine (wherever the engine is (front or rear).
7:14 There is no guidance on orientation in the manual other than putting the locking bars on the outside but you are 100% CORRECT especially for rear engined vehicles like VWs and Porsches.
Back in the old days I worked at a Chevron Gas station... which had repair bays etc...... during our training program it was reinforced to us to 1) Never raise the lift blocks (these were adjustable lift points on the racks) more than the 1st setting on any short wheel-based 4 wheel drive (CJ's etc.) and 2) NEVER stack multiple blocks ever. IMHO, I see too many no-instruction type issues for end users and in terms of time savings..... I have timed it lifting my 5k pound truck and 3800 pound wife's car raising with my 3 tone floor jack and 6 ton jack stands...honestly, from start to finish I can raise the vehicles up higher (26-30 inches depending on need) in less time than you can with the quickjack unit....
I am too old and crippled to maneuver the QuickJack around by myself. My helper is my 12 year old grand daughter and we can jack my Subaru CrossTrek easier faster with my floor jack and 4 jack stands. The solid blocks that come with it are ridiculous and stupid to use on the lift weld points. The blocks eventually crack, break. They should include the slotted blocks with the unit instead of the solid blocks.
Regarding pinch welds get the right blocks. Quick Jack sells the correct pinch weld blocks for lifting your car if it has pinch welds no need to modify the blocks shipped with the unit.
Good tips! I will definently invest in this lift for my BRZ. So tired of using a normal jack when doing my service / break service and coil over adjustments etc.
really great tips! especially the orientation, labeling, using jack stand extras as a backup, not to use to many of the rubber lifts on top of each other at once, and to get an extension if you try to lift an SUV if your using the shorter Quickjack models. Also make sure both sides lift evenly, and are locked in the event your garage floor sides are at slightly different levels. It is a great jack but its still a jack you have to watch and check everything.
This is a great video. I definitely learned a few things I wouldn't have thought of otherwise. A few random thoughts: - the hose routing, but this has been covered - QJ orientation - good to know, but far from mandatory in most cases. Engineers factor the weight distribution when they design the jack points, they're typically shifted toward the heavier end. I've lifted many cars with the QJ fwd or backward, and they're rock steady either way. Orientation is usually dictated by where I want the power unit or hoses, which bumper is closer to a wall, etc. Still appreciate you calling attention to it, there may be some scenarios where it may matter. Just not usually. - the hockey puck pinch-weld blocks - I did the same to use with floor jacks, and I've used them with the quickjack, and they're fine for both. And I've used the rubber blocks on pinch welds and no splitting. I wouldn't glue them together though. Or just cut a groove in one face of the rubber block to accommodate the pinch weld so it doesn't split. - in the unlikely case of a QJ failure, it's not necessarily going to come straight down, so the jack stands may or may not be useful. I prefer to throw a couple wheels underneath the car alongside me, but out of my way. Doesn't hurt to have the jack stands there though. A couple tips I can add: - once its locked in place, you can remove the hoses if they're in the way - if you park on top of the QJ, the car can drip on them (esp. salt runoff if winter area). Consider covering them if you choose to do this. - ***ensure the QJ are parallel to each other when lifting***. If not, the blocks will try to roll sideways / may pop out. -#1 hack: add casters so you can easily roll the QJ under the car, around the floor, etc. Should have come this way from the factory. Can buy them for $350++, or many online sources showing how to add them for nearly nothing. I'll shut up now. Off to double check my hydraulic oil level!
Is that part of the quick Jack strong enough to have a jack stand underneath it or would it just fold like if you improperly jack up a car not by the jack points? I would put the jack stands directly under the car on the frame somewhere instead?
Somewhere else is better. In the event the Quickjack did come down (not sure how), the forces inside would not be vertical and force the temporary stand over. The design is quite good and I have a full size crewcab truck on the stand for days on end with no issues.
I have the TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack, or even ramps.
This is a very informative video and I thank you for taking the time to make it. I am currently in the process of placing an order and your video helped me a lot. I have watched about a dozen videos and you explained it very well.
Those hoses, wow. Do not do this at home. Why would you have to keep checking the fluid level. Where would it go ? Why not put the jack stands under the vehicle instead of the jack ?
Not a fan if your block hack . That could cause damage to the plastic molding or my case / the fibreglass of my Corvette . Will stick with just the blocks
i cut a slot in the rubber blocks that came with the quckjack with a grinder for the frame rail, solved! why are your hydraulic lines between the car and jack? they should be under the rails.
A lot of modern cars and SUV's are between 1800 and 2200 kgs so this version works for most of them. By the way: "Both the powertrain and driving position have been set as low and as far as possible towards the centre of the vehicle to optimise balance, giving the GT86 an ideal, 53:47 weight distribution."
I have been jamming jackstands from day one of purchase and I also place my hydrolic jack under the car frame at either end . Depends where I am working . I also put cardboard under the quickjack as it makes positioning the lift easier and then you have a softer surface to kneel or lay on instead of cold cement floor or ashphalt
You're not supposed to use the solid blocks on pinch weld seams. They make a special block for that. So you say the block is garbage but you misused it. Sorry but that's ridiculous.
Most cars use pinch welds so it would make sense for quickjack to supply pinch weld blocks instead of solids for the smaller quickjacks. I've bought the pinchweld blocks and been ripped off $200 for them by quickjack.
