very good and detailed video. Just got my bike and im new to riding. This video was very detailed and i wasn't intimidated at all. i feel very confident after this tutorial, keep up the good work.
Cool! we both currently have the 2006 model R1 so you found the right channel for plenty of info and much more to come. Feel free to contact us anytime if you need a tip or whatever.
Howdy from Texas! Glad you found us. Let us know if we can ever help with anything. We are slammed but always try to help as quick and often as possible.
Glad to help! While we do ride Yamaha R1's at this time, we are still going to be releasing videos for everyone. Gear reviews, riding tips and safety techniques, even some moto vlogs or whatever they are called. So check back in with us!
@MetlHead37 camera guy here - cam is an old school Canon XL1s so it's a bit bigger than most cameras you see around today. The bigger size and it's weight keep it pretty still but I'm thinking about adding some additional weight to keep it even more still. The more steady your camera is, the better your videos turn out.
Thank you for the detailed video, very helpful ! Oil level needs to be checked with the bike leveled (stands or ground) with the engine running (at op temp) or with the engine off ? Thanks for clearing that up
Thank you guys for the video! This clip being detailed as possible helped me changed my 1st oil on my first bike with no complications. I didn't have to go back to the store for other materials cuz ya'll were detailed on the items you need to change your oil. Also the quality of the drain plug...thanks from Hawaii!!!
Thank you! You got the point exactly - at this time, we both ride Yamaha R1's so that's the majority of the how to videos we shoot. But, we are also trying to get in some parts review videos, gear review videos, riding tips videos, motovlogs, etc so all riders can get something from our videos and website. It's why we say "Get Your Fix" - it's both literal and figurative. Thanks for watching and commenting. Let us know if we can ever help out in any way!
Its all back together, time to ride or go drink beer! best options ever! Great vid very usefull, will be doing oilchange on 2005 r1, all should be the same i hope.
yeah, we both run with reusable oil filters (PC Racing brand and Scott's Performance brand) and yes, there is an o-ring and you can use a small bit of oil on your finger to lube the ring
I know what it is now, its a weep hole for the coolent system, from what I've read it is used as a indicator to let you know if your seals are going bad by leaking coolent, its a tube that passes through the oil pan into the water pump shaft i think, there are O rings that go on the tube and when I put my oil pan back the O rings didn't seat right or may be damaged. There are forums where people are having problems with that weep hole. Guess it just depends on how the bike is ran and cared for.
Dunno about cancer, but we use gloves because it's good practice and it keeps your hands and everything else clean like tools and other things you touch. Might get a call on the phone or have to use the laptop to pause a how to video - then you just pull em off and get another pair if needed. We always wear gloves just to be clean and on the safe side I guess... less scrubbing when you're done. Thanks for writing!
Yes, when the bike is off. Also, take the bike off the bike stand. Then stand the bike straight up (off the side stand). The level you see is the correct level. When it's on the side stand or bike stand the oil level can't be properly read in the window.
we both run 10W-40. As far as Silkolene - I have not used it yet. Todd knows all about the different oils so I texted him for your answer. Holler back soon if I forget to come back and reply here. Are you running it? If so, what are your thoughts on it?
If your R1 doesn't have Zeus Fasteners for some reason, get a set of those for your fairings. Also, a T handle wrench makes the job much easier than a typical allen wrench or hex key.
Love the video, made changing my oil real easy however I now have an intermittent fault where the oil light come on shortly after starting. If I switch the ignition off/on it goes out. Any ideas? Much appreciated Rob.
We only buy Amsoil and crush washers for a few cents because we run Scott's and PC Racing reusable oil filters. We clean out the oil filter, pop the new crush washer on, filler up with oil and burn T's brotha! Plus we do the work ourselves. It would be great if everyone else chimed in. Where you from (state or country, etc), how much are parts, how much for labor, how much total. Very good question / idea here @moldcos21
Install a new crush washer every time you change the oil. They are cheap and can prevent problems like this. If you change the crush washer and it still leaks, then you know the crush washer is not the problem. Some crush washers can be used more than once, but we just change them out every time to be on the safe side and prevent hassles and leaks.
Did you go with PC Racing Flo reusable oil filter or Scott's Performance reusable oil filter? We have run both and prefer Scott's Performance. I believe they are the original makers of the reusable oil filter that you see in the video (even though that one is PC Racing...)
Hi, R1VideosdotCom hope u doing fine, I've 125cc honda bike. Last time when i changed oil i don't replace the crush washer. My bike is leaking oil drop wise, what will be the reason, is it for the crush washer or the mechanic loosely tighten it up? pls reply.
You are welcome, thanks for commenting. Take it off the stand and then lean the bike so it is straight up and down (not leaning over on the kickstand). Engine off and cooled down so the oil can settle back down. Have a friend hold the R1 level while you check the level in the oil windos. We use the foot peg and our feet to brace it when alone, but you could risk dropping the bike on yourself if you don't do it right.
O.k. I fixed the oil plug problem i had but now I have a question, is it normal to have a slight drip of oil coming out of the oil pan where the ( I think its a re leaf tube ) tube is under the oil pan just above the exhaust pipe? The tube is at the rear of the oil pan I wasn't sure if it leaked because I might have went slightly over the amount of oil I was suppose to put in.
Got a question, I own a 07R1 and I havent been givin it any love at all beacuse when I purchased the bike it had 2700 miles on it, currently it reads 15678 and havent got an oil change, i've made an appointment with somebody already to do it within the next days, but what problems can I expect with the bike by not having an oil change for more than 10000 miles? it hasnt been behaving strange or nothing except for a noise that clicks sometimes when I start the bike, other than that it runs well
If you only did it once, no worries. Just change it out ASAP and don't ride it until you do!! A lot of things can go wrong if you consistently use the wrong oil. It can tear up your engine, your clutch, and wreak havoc on the moving parts. You really should only use an oil with a JASO rating. Some people use car oil and say there is no problem but we don't believe that. They should screen their old oil through a filter like pantyhose and they'd likely see metal shavings or something.
Oh, and as for Todd, he is usually wrenching on the R1 or someone else's sportbike all day everyday so exposure to chemicals adds up over time. You should grab some gloves, doesn't hurt to wear them. Keep your brake, clutch, and throttle hands good to go for more riding!
@torquemonsterr good idea! Also as a note for the rest of the viewers, don't go over that top "full" marker. It's best to be just over the middle of the two markers. Not too low, and not too full.
Thanks! Yes, we already have a video on changing brake fluid, I just have to edit the video. It's been on hold while I was moving, but I plan to get back in and get it released. If you haven't already, go to our website and sign up to be an R1 Insider. We release the videos to the Insiders first and then release it publicly at a later time.
I haven't changed oil in an R6 but my guess is that it would be very similar. As far as oil, check your owners manual and do not use car oil. Make sure the oil has a JASO rating like we show in the beginning of this video. Good luck!
but yeah, we really need another R1 to work on because we got 2004-2006 covered with our own. so if anyone sees this and is around, we'll do work on your R1 if it's any other year!
Would love to, but we do not have a 2008 R1 and do not have any friends that have one either. We are trying to figure out a way to do videos by working on other riders' R1 for free so we can film it for yall.
@TheJstack88 Yes, 2005 will be the same (2004,2005,2006 all same bike for the most part). Glad we could help. check out the website and send us an email if we can be of any further help or just to say hello. We also appreciate you guys sending US tips and tricks that we can incorporate into our videos and share with everyone else too.
Japanese Automotive Standards Organization - standards for gas engines of Japanese origin. MA is generally for motorcycle engines and MA standards are designed for oils that are approved for wet clutch use, MB standard is not suitable for wet clutch use. JASO-MA standards are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories. Gotta thank Wikipedia. org for that!
I wish we had some to sell! Right now I am running PC Racing Flo reusable oil filter. Todd runs Scott's Performance reusable oil filter. I wish we knew the whole truth and don't mean to pass on rumors so just suffice it to say that right now: we are fan's Scott's Performance oil filters for good reason.
PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!! I have 2001 R1 i live in MI so its pretty cold right now, i went to start it tonight and all the oil leaked out of the bottom i immediatly shut it off. PLEASE HELP!
We are working on it - just need someone in San Antonio, Tx that rides a 2009 R1 to let us work on their bike for free so we can film it. Mmmm, that or find a cash machine and buy a newer R1 ourselves! I wish I wish
@thechristianbugok change it every 3-4K miles or at the intervals the manual for your bike suggests (you can find some info about it on our site) - if you are not riding 3,000 miles a year, then once every 6 months would be ok especially if you are running synthetic like Amsoil
I DID EXACTLY as you said but after i started the bike IT STARTED SMOKING from the front just under the oil filter. can someone tell me why? i know i did nothing wrong in terms of the oil change but when the engine reached about 70 degrees celcius it started smoking. i'm a very paranoid guy so i just turned it off immediately too scared to start again. anyone know what;s wrong??
You likely didn't wipe off all the oil from when you drained it and when you started it back up the heat made it smoke a little. This happens. No worries if that's the case, just shut it off, wait for it to cool, and then clean all that old oil out with a cloth.
Thanks! I still laugh at our accidental comment "get your chick to make you a sandwich..." - it's funny because I say it and then Todd doesn't miss a beat at 2:57
No, not yet because we both own 2004 R1's. We are open to working on anyone in San Antonio, Tx or surrounding area's R1 for free (granted they let us star their bike in a video as we work on it) - - so when we get any takers (we prefer to work on chick's R1's first) then we will release a video. That's the plan, just no other years to work on yet (unless you ship us yours!)
@yourleftnut1 We only use motorcycle oil with a JASO MA rating in our bikes. We are always looking to save some cash, but figure that using the proper motorcycle oil will keep you from having any more expensive problems down the road. Glad you've had no problems, we just err on the side of caution. Thanks for watching!
There really isn't anything different for the 09-12, other than you only have to remove the lower fairings. Also, its best to access the filter from the right side of the bike, through the header.
Yes. I take it you are not meaning you'll change the coolant every time you change the oil in your R1 because you really don't need to flush the coolant out but about every 2 years. I'm guessing you just meant you need an oil change and are going to do your coolant change that's also due all at the same time, so yeah, nothing wrong with that.
I stripped the threads in the oil pan on my R1, I didn't even realize I over tightened the bolt untill it almost seem to let go of the threads. I thought "damn I need a torque wrench". Now I need a pan, I'll have to order 1 through Babbits... *sigh*
Yes, they make all kinds of the same oil filters so just make sure you get the one that fits your bike. The one in the video is on my bike (robert - silver R1) - - it's a PC Racing. We recommend Scott's Performance. Then just select the one that fits your bike by year, make and model. Sorry for taking so long to respond! Thanks for watching
Well, we just put out a notice on MeetUp to do work for free if anyone has an R1 that is not a 2004-2006. You might end up with a video sooner than you expected just for askin. We'll see how this goes!
@224sparky No problems at all with the bag as far as heat and exhaust. That's called a "Monster bag" I believe. It has a very big capacity (why I bought it). If you stop by our site, R1Videos.com, and go to contact page and get my email address, I'll send you the exact brand, model #, price I paid and where I bought it.
We can, we'll add it to the list, but it won't be anytime soon. Sorry, we are buried with video requests and have a lot of editing to do before we can shoot more videos. Thanks for watching and hopefully we find time to get to all the requests.
Yamaha YZF R1 Clutch Slider Protector. By MotoVation. We highly recommend MotoVation. Expensive, but they hold up extremely well in a crash & don't come apart like some of the other brands. "Designed to protect the expensive clutch housing of your Yamaha YZF1000 R1 during a tip over or lowside. The sliders install onto a solid stainless steel rod. An easy install on your Yamaha R1 with minimal tools." We will add installation of frame and clutch sliders to our list videos to shoot.
Wow, that's crazy! Glad nothing has broken down on you yet. That's not good at all to go that long. When you change the oil, you should strain the old oil through a pair of pantyhose so you can see any metal grinds or pieces. I bet you will have some wear on your engine, but nothing you can do about it now, right? Stay of top of that oil changin' !!
