Racing the Official MultiGP Qualifier with Digital FPV! 

It looks like the custom code that I mentioned has been merged into master, so you should have it if you get a recent nightly build of betaflight 4.3. Of course, using a nightly build is entirely at your own risk, as they have not been well tested. Also, when using nightly builds, it is recommended that you only make edits via CLI not via the betaflight configurator GUI because some parts of the GUI are now incorrect and have not yet been updated. With all those disclaimers out of the way, the important things to know are: 1) Make sure that the ADC filter on your OpenTX/EdgeTX radio is disabled 2) Make sure you have good quality gimbals (preferably HAL effect gimbals) 3) A recent nightly build of BF 4.3 4) If your raw gimbal noise is like mine (relatively good), then try the following: set feedforward_averaging = 2_POINT set feedforward_smooth_factor = 50 And leave all other smoothing commands at defaults. 5) Check it via blackbox You would think you would want to filter the raw RC signal, but you can actually leave it with default filtering and adjust the feedforward filtering instead. This combination gave us the cleanest and most responsive setpoint and feedforward curves, and thus the cleanest and most responsive gyro curves. Note that 2_POINT averaging adds 1ms of latency when the input packets arrive at 500Hz. That works out to less delay than you would get from other filtering methods and still significantly faster than 250Hz updates.

We had LOS spotters and required that everyone DVR their own flights in case DVR review was required.

@@MrShutterBug nice and practical. I just asked, because that's what I get asked about when racing Shark Byte

Hi! I'm glad you enjoy my videos. :-) No, I do not install buzzers on my whoops because of the weight, but I have never lost one. I usually don't fly my whoops in places that have a lot of bushes. When I crash in my house, or yard, or at a playground, they are usually pretty easy to find. It sounds like a buzzer is an important feature for you, so go for it! For drones that don't have a buzzer, here are a few tips: 1) Try enabling turtle mode, then flick the sticks on your controller to make the props spin briefly. If you know about where you crashes, then the sound of the props might be enough to find it. 2) Enable the DSHOT motor beacon (making the motors beep) and put it on a switch. If you want to make them beep louder, then go into the BLHeli Configurator and turn up the "beacon strength". A high beacon strength will make the motors beep louder, but the motors could get hot if you made them beep for a long time. That's why I suggest using a switch to make them beep for just a few seconds at a time. 3) If you have a flight controller that does not have buzzer pads, it may still be possible to add one using a spare UART. However, you can't connect the buzzer directly because it would draw too much power. The buzzer circuit requires an extra transistor and resistor in a small circuit. I'm just letting you know that it is possible if you want to learn how to do that. I hope that info helps. Oh, and if you're interested in the Moblite7, then be sure to check out my build, which inspired them to make the Moblite7: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0P3PREMKdDc.html

@@MrShutterBug Thank you for answering, and for the advice about BLHELI / beacon, didn't know this, only knew the Betaflight options, wich didn't change much on the loudness of the beep. I'll check this out for sure. Yes I already use the turtle mode/brief arming technique as finding method, but it's far from being as effective as a 100 db buzzer ! I wont spend any more time on the Snapper7 FC (no extra pad, it will fly indoor only, as is) but rather build a new whoop with the crazybee AIO FC wich has the buz pads. Coackroach 75 frame, betafpv 19000Kv motors, and a choice from 3 cameras : Ant Lite, Runcam3 and the sub micro TBS one (if ever usable for flying... haven't plug it yet) 300 or 450 Betafpv batteries. and maybe the Vifly mini autonomous buzzer ! that's what I have under my hands right now, so I'll build that first. And YES I've seen your vidéo about the "prototype" of the Moblite7, and a friend's got one. I like the "no canopy" concept a lot ! Also, I forgot to say how amazing this racing vidéo is, got to watch more race vidéos, the speed is crazy, got to find a way to flash/update my own FC, ie my brain ;)

Hi. Thanks for the kind words. I've been flying and tinkering, but haven't made any new videos recently. I've been pretty busy with other stuff in my life, but I do have some new projects in the works. Stay tuned! As for the 75X DJI, yeah I could work on that just to be able to claim a low weight, but I generally think the 2-inch props + 85mm frame caries the weight more gracefully.

@@MrShutterBug Hmmm, I thought the 75x would be better because it is smaller and lighter. Maybe those two factors are less important than the bigger props and more thrust, for more control? Which would you recommend for flying in my house during the long drizzly winter? I'm in Portland, Oregon, so I can easily relate to where you live! Ha! 🥴😟

Sounds interesting. I haven't tried it.

I don't really fly long range, so I can't tell you the limits of the range. For the race, I was using 25mW output power. My VTX can go up to 200mW, which I sometimes use if I have to fly behind more obstacles.

@@MrShutterBug oke. Thanks

For general flying: Rate/Super/Expo = 2.1/0/0.4 But for racing I slow it down more. I think I was flying 2.05/0/04 at this race. No throttle expo

I still have the Moblite7 and I still haven't had time to try it out. Or rather, I have spent my time on other projects. The Moblite7 was inspired by my 16.8 gram 75mm whoop build. Have you seen that video? The Moblite7 is not as light as mine, but it should still have great performance if set up similarly.

@@MrShutterBug I have seen that video now, it completely changed my mind about the Moblite7. Thank you very much for taking the time to reply. 😊

I spend quite a bit of time designing and modifying drones, but it is not my full time job.

No video issues at all. Shark Byte is fixed power just like analog and does not cause any extra interference for analog neighbors. Timing systems work the same. No interference in the pilots tent either, since the goggles do not transmit anything (unlike DJI). The only real issue is that Shark Byte currently only supports race-band frequencies, and the Shark Byte receiver has built in RHCP patch antennas (unless you mod the receiver). Thus, if you are assigned to a non-raceband channel or if you are assigned LHCP polarization, then you might have to ask the race director to change your frequency assignment.

@@MrShutterBug oh awesome. Almost all the race events I've been to have forced analogue. So I built 3 analogue quads. Might have to add in a shark byte quad now.

@@reevolution_fpv Yeah, it should be fine but check with your race director first, just to be sure.

I'm running ELRS at 500Hz not 50Hz! Faster = more responsive (with proper betaflight filters)