I call plumber/heater company they are asking me $160/hr. I need to replace our "radiator valve." There are 4 of them on the first floor. All of those valves stayed opened (who knows for how many years). The first floor can get 90-100 degree. Its frustrating specially when you sleep at night everybody can't sleep because too hot. This video deserved likes and subscription for helping people who has no budget. Thanks Bob!
Steam radiator valves are supposed to stay open at all times. To balance between rooms, the way to regulate the heat is with adjustable vents, or the radiator sizes. The reason they are valves and not just elbows, is that they needed to shut off steam from the radiators for maintenance. Oil burners can shut the heat off in no time for maintenance, but the original coal burning boilers would take hours to cool down and fire up again.
Even tho it took me 40 mins...without your video helping me avoid serious mistakes ,I was able to install the radiator control valve in one take...thanks a ton ...saved me a ton of 💰
Thanks Bob. This pair of videos are outstanding. I have successfully replaced my first steam welded 90 year old radiator valve. I replaced it with a $20.00 valve and refurbished and cut new threads in the radiator for the regulator valve. I learned a million things doing this slow according to your advice and video. I don't account for all the views of this video but quite a few in the last week or two. I learned something new at each stage of the process as I went back and reviewed where I was. I worked eight years at the Texaco during college and law school. You knew exactly what I was going to do, get the biggest wrench I could find, put a pipe on it and move the earth. I'm glad you advised otherwise. This particular pipe is on the second floor and angles into the wall. Breaking anything off would have been catastrophic. I can now start working my way through the rest of the house and look forward to continuing to check in with your valuable video advice and counsel. Thanks.
Thanks very much Michael! I learned from old time craftsman which unfortunately no longer seems to exist. Can tell you how many steam risers was snap off as a result of the"get a bigger wrench method" Regards, Bob.
This video saved me over $300. I didn't wanna buy the tools and was gonna hire someone but after I got ridiculous estimates I said fukkit. I ended up spending $15 on supplies and really only needed the $5 hacksaw. Didn't have a pipe wrench, just a channel lock and spud wrench. I used a big screw driver on the cut because the cold chisel didn't seem to doing anything, causing me to keep sawing and nicking the threads. Used some cooking twine and pipe dope to make up for that. Been holding up so far.
Thanks for posting your two part videos. I had the same problem and was able to do the job following your instructions. The sawzall made the job much easier and quicker.
You hit it right on the nail we were using a wrench and a pipe right before we saw your video. Thankfully we didn't cause any damage to the plumbing. Thanks!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I guess you win that luggage set after all!! :) Thanks for the tip. Worked perfectly. Took me less than 2 minutes to take off a 90-year old steel fitting on a 2" steam pipe. Have a look pasteboard.co/I5rEZS1.jpg
My radiator valve was stuck open . My building gets so hot in the winter that I need to shut the heat off . Thanks to your very informative video . I was able to remove the radiator valve and spud in 2 hours . It would have been faster but I had to cut the valve in 2 places before it would loosen . Then the radiator spud threads broke even with the radiator which extended my extraction time . But I followed your video carefully and didn't nick a thread . Thanks again .
I changed three valves yesterday and can't thank you enough for this self help video, saved me a bundle. The only problem I had was getting the spud out of the radiator it kept breaking off (just the part that was sticking out of the radiator)when I started taping on both sides of the cut. Nevertheless you guys are what make RU-vid such a valuable tool to use, keep the videos coming. Cheer
Hi Bob, great videos. You make plumbing enjoyable to learn about. I need to raise and move a few galvanized steel radiator supply and return pipes to finish basement ceiling. Is it advisable to keep the galvanized pipe? Cost of copper is so high, would love to modify the pipes already there if doable. I've been told to switch out the pipes to copper, but I'm wondering if that is just a reflection of the technician's comfort zone.
Black steel pipe will perform well, just keep them pitched so that condensate and get back to the boiler. I would only use copper on a return line, but black pipe in the industry standard.
Last question, should radiator tilt slightly toward the valve so that water drains out. Mine is currently sitting exactly level. Thanks again for all your help. ♡
Thanks very much for these very informative valve replacement videos. I would like to know if it is possible to change only the package stem BUSHING since that is the only place where it is leaking.
If the nut is not damaged you can re-pack it with either graphite or teflon packing. If it is damaged you'd have find an exact match from the same manufacturer.
After removing the radiator from the pipes, my husband and I struggled to remove the valve. But, we found your video and it worked! Both sides are capped and we are done. Thanks again!!
Fantastic videos- thanks! Question though- I had two radiators removed, but they left the valves. So, 1. Do I need to cap them if the valve is shut off? Or will it leak water once the system is turned back on (we’re probably a few weeks from needing to turn it on)? My contractor insists it doesn’t matter as long as the valve is shut. 2. Can the valve just be capped? I think not, and that I have to remove the valve and then cap the pipes, but you tell me. I’d much prefer a solution where I can just cap the valves, but that may be impossible. Of note, this is in a multi unit building in a major NE city, so not sure if we’ll have to worry about system balance as well... Thanks!!
If the valves are relatively new, they should hold. But truth be told in a multi-family building, I would cut them off and cap off the lines. Never know if someone will monkey around with the valves.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks for the quick reply! And assuming I can get the valves off without damaging the pipe threading, I just buy the caps and install them using the same Teflon tape/compound method as shown in video as if replacing the valve?
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Hey Bob! Following up on this, the heating turned on, and one of the valve closures worked, the other not so much. Turns out the contractor hadn’t closed the one, and upon trying to shut the valve by turning it right, I can see it’s not closing. The knob turns, but nothing happening inside the valve. I’ve been able to turn the system off so I don’t have hot steam shooting out, but need to fix... and would rather not spend an arm and a leg to get someone over here on a Sunday. Can I remove the knob and buy a replacement at a hardware store/home center? Or just try to close with plyers on the stem with the knob off? Thanks for any advice!
@@karett18 You can try to tighten down on the valve stem, unless you have an identical valve hanging around the internal components are not interchangeable. When in doubt, cut the valve off and cap the line.
Hey Bob that’s for your videos…. Question…. Our radiator valve from floor is not leveled with the radiator…. We used a connection to connect, is that okay?….. another thing is the upper parts of radiator heats but the bottom is cold /warm is that okay?
Great video!! I am planning on taking this on... so basically saw the the nut that is connecting to the pipe on the floor and then use a cold chisel abs pop it.. next step.. why don’t I just cut the radiator off and then saw inside nut then use a cape chisel collapse the remaining union? Btw. What size saw should I get for cutting brass ? How many TPI ? Btw. Snug up everything is good? Or how tight do these need to be when replacing new one ?
I'm glad I came across your video today. Last night I saw what leaking in the basement and discovered that It was coming from the valve on the 1st fl. I was able to provide a temporary fix by tightening the stem nut. After seeing how you do it I'm going to give it a shot when the temperature rises from the single digits we are currently experiencing. Would you recommend I first try repackaging the stem valve as I'm sure it will come out and how to do it best? Thanks for sharing
I have a 70 year old radiator sitting in the basement with the valve and spud original from 1920s attached. In the room the original nipple is capped. How the hell did they get that off before I moved in a few years ago?!??!? I now want to put it back and am trying to figure out if I can reuse what I have or not
Very informative! Thanks! Going to attempt this. Do you have any tips on how to remove and replace a steam main air vent (the ones usually in the basement). I have one that's super old and seems pretty stuck!
Michael I haven't done one specifically on that subject, thanks for reminding me to do so. Check these two videos out, I think they'll help you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y3I1N2NTqqE.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8Wns8rs1mVc.html
Bob, thank you for the great video. Is there another name that the "spud wrench" goes by? I am trying to find one and can't find the same one you have.
Best video I’ve seen on this...thanks! Do you have an online source for valves, spuds, etc. hard to find suppliers that will sell retail here in NH and want to stay away from big box stores. Thanks!
Ken Lynch Thanks Ken, much appreciated. Try www.supplyhouse.com, this is where I presently purchase my steam radiator valves as well as other select everyday plumbing supplies. Regards, Bob.
Tried this... not working ... guess I removed my radiator already? Possible I am not cutting far enough?? I’m scared to cut the threads lol ...I even tried heating up the pipe not working... help!!! Update: I was able to get it off .. heat plus 18” pipe wrench. Was able to break it free... spent a good 3 hours lol and sweating my ASs off.
I've seen it done but it's not the correct way to do it, the water has to flow back to the system un-interrupted and placing the valve in the backwards position won't cut it! I.M.H.O.
Thanks for the video...just had to use the heat method and wax. cutting didn't work on one. and I slightly nicked the threads on another. Where do you find the eccentric bushings? When I had my radiators refinished seems like they dont remove the bushing and afraid too, but my new company is taking them out when refurbished. Do you recommend changing the bushing when refinishing?
Thanks so much for the video. A few questions. First is I assume you have to drain the entire system before attempting to do this ? Also one of our radiators has the valve but missing the knob, so cannot turn off when I want to. Is there a chance I could replace the knob without taking the entire valve off? Thanks
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Single pipe steam system. Flat cast iron radiator (bought at a salvage yard) mounted just below the ceiling, in a basement unit. Properly pitched. Straight line valve might be 40 years old. Can't tell who made the valve because the plastic knob has been replaced. Vent was replaced 7 years ago and appears to be working properly. First plumber says he can't R&R the valve without dropping the radiator $$$$$$$. Looking for another plumber. Steam pipe to radiator connection goes like this: steam pipe > coupling > nipple > valve > union > spud. That assembly was put together 7 years ago during a remodel so everything should turn. We don't see why the plumber can't cut the coupling and R&R the valve without dropping the radiator. Assuming it's the valve that's causing the racket. Thanks
Hi Bob. Question…Can the brass valve be placed in any position or must it be installed upright? I want to rotate it 90 degrees into a horizontal position since I have limited space. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I just moved into a place with an old radiator. The knob looks new but the upkeep on the place has been less than ideal before I moved in. I went to open the valve and the heater seemed to be fine but I left with some from friends for a while to find a small puddle of water when I got home. The being from the steam part not the on. Long story short, I went to turn it off but it seems like the knob won't turn off. Is there a way to manually shut it off the heat all together til I get a repair man such as using a wrench? I tried googling it but there wasn't a clear answer.
+Ramona Sanchez Ramona, it's going to be difficult to diagnose based on your description. Is it a steam system, a hot water system? This is important because the fix will be different for each. Calling in a pro is going to be the most reliable and safe way to get it fixed. Regards and good luck, Bob.
Is it okay to spray foam insulation in the hole where the steam radiator pipe comes through the floor from the basement? There is a cold draft that comes up through that hole. Thanks.
I don’t have a problem with that. Bear in mind there will expansion when the heat comes up. I’d use a basic expanding foam sparingly, not one of the super duper expanding foams they tend to quadruple in size.
Spray some WD-40 around it. let is sit for 5-10 min. spray some more. let it sit 5 minutes. Give it a good wack with a sledge hammer at the connection. It will loose, then you can turn it right off.
+kathyfellows7 I tested it on my Mac & and PC Kathy and can't seem to duplicate the problem. Make sure your volume is turned up all the way! Still have an issue, I re-load a fresh copy. Thanks For Watching!
Try this link:www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Radiator-Spud-Wrench-B8618/202246292?keyword=radiator+spud+wrench. In lieu of the spud wrench I use the back end of my !0" pipe wrench for 1" diameter valves and my 14" wrench for 1 1/4" valves. Thanks for the watching,I appreciate it. HAPPY PLUMBING!
+BobsPlumbingVideos Do you find a hacksaw works better than a sawzall. I've been using my sawzall, and using narrow paint scrapers to wedge into the cut until it pops apart. Never tried the chisel.
I'm sure I understand the question? By the way thanks for watching. Most apartment buildings in my service area are low pressure steam and operate anywhere from a low of 1 to 5 lbs of pressure, but that is all controlled at the source in the mechanical room. You have no control from the radiator other that to shut the supply valve off or meter the amount of air escaping as the steam comes up through use of specialty valves from a company such as DanFoss-www.danfoss.us/home/#/ -. Hope that helped! Regards, Bob
Hi Brian. Speaking as a landlord, I would be thrilled if you asked me if you could replace one of the valves with the on/off brass type. If you demonstrate you can do it well, I'd even compensate you in rent for the work. I know since you live there and are liable for damages that you're highly motivated to do the work well & good. Plus I could pay you a few hundred dollars for the entirety of the work, whereas paying Bob might be $200-$400 per radiator. One thing that I have found works really well on the brass-to-black pipe fittings is some high-temp, copper never seize. It's used in automotive applications and I've used it on vales that I went back to 20 years later and were a breeze to take off.
These old F-ers are definitely a major bitch. Especially when they won't shut off, and you eyeballs are melting in their sockets. Absolutely madding when one cannot adjust the temperature in room, Secondly most of the radiators are too big for heating area. Thx Bob
Those shut-off valves are not a way to control the amount of heat in the radiator. If your having an issue with that particular room being to hot, their are ways to control it. Drop me a note at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com and I'll point you in the right direction.HAPPY PLUMBING!
hello there. what can I do if I made the cut too deep on the piece going into the radiator? it's leaking slightly. how can I repair those threads? please help
+karim tarboush If the cut is not too deep you can use Teflon Tape in combination with Blue Block thread sealant - amzn.to/1W44rIQ. Be careful not to get this on your hands and tools because it's difficult to remove. An alternative to Teflon would be spool lamp wick which you should be able to get at a plumbing supply. Wrap it around the threads in a clockwise direction in between the threads of the male spud followed by the Blue Block. You should be good to go!
thanks a lot Bob. I used the Teflon and blue block you sent the link to. everything worked flawlessly! it really started getting cold. I was procrastinating. thanks again.