Radius = MPH 

Accurate statement. We several more videos on trail braking here and on our FB page. Please enjoy using them in as many arguments you like.

@@Ridelikeachampionycrs will do.

U can brake while cornering, however u don't need to.

@@Adrenalean767 you shut your mouth slim

RiderCoach here for MSF. I will say at the basic beginner rider level it is taught to NOT brake mid turn at all because you are being trained the very fundamental skills of riding a motorcycle. If we add lean angle and trail braking into the mix it overcomplicates and offers a lot more risk for the student to over brake and wreck during the class. The basic rider course is not designed to be the end all be all of your motorcycle education. It is only the fundamental basics to get you riding.

Same!

Same, and I bought the online course and have exactly zero regrets.

​@@groundsurvivalstudygracieg4034 they have online courses?

True story....

Yeah, this warrants a lot of attention for that very small amount of brake pressure has a squared impact on radius and the ability to control our turn.

Голос Бездока email us this request. Teachme@champschool.com

@@Ridelikeachampionycrs I just have sent an email.

Thank you!

Yes it would.

Thank you again appreciate it

Thank you!

Thanks!

You are not understanding the most basic physics of a motorcycle.

Jerry Spencer Jerry, I think your question is "why would you want to directly control lean angle?". Not sure this R=MPH vid directly says that, but here are some thoughts: 1-Lean angle is finite...due to traction or parts dragging. Because it's finite, the rider must set corner speed to accomodate for traction or dragging. In that case, a rider would want to directly control lean angle. 2-In racing, we are up against traction issues and attempt to run right to the edge (100%) of what our tires can offer in every corner on every lap. To stay within grip limits we respect maximum lean angle, again going back to exact entry and mid-corner speed. 3-So what this video is getting to is the fact that lean angle is finite and the way to stay on the safe side of what your traction or dragging parts offer is to precisely set cornering speed with the ability to continue to shed speed efficiently all the way through the corner if necessary, through trail braking. I hope that helps. Many riders, after running wide in a corner and living through the experience, decide to ride slowly everywhere. That's an option. We teach that running wide in a corner is not a speed issue, it's a lack of control issue: they literally enter the corner out of control, out of the brakes...or using the wrong control, the throttle. It works when you're going slow or the corner isn't significantly tighter than you thought because you can "lean it over farther". But when the pace is up or the grip is down or the corner is tighter than you thought, trail-braking is the cure. Thanks, Nick Ienatsch

@@Ridelikeachampionycrs I knew this reply had to be written by Nick as I was reading it. This guy talks a million miles a minute even in text, but every word is extremely useful and spot on. I highly recommend taking his class in person. Will blow your mind and forever change how you ride a motorcycle no matter how long you have been riding. Just bring open ears and a focused mind. Semper Fi

@@ntdeas For some reason I just got your reply today. I only wish I could take the course, I last had in depth riding instruction when I rode for the Highway Patrol way too long ago. But at my age, I'm afraid I'm in the twilight of my riding career. Appreciate the reply and the videos.

Curtis To glad to hear your bacon is well and good. Please subscribe and share.

Thanks!

Ditto

Thanks!

If you can find a track day near you, it's worthwhile. Some have coaches to help.

Keith Whiting thank Keith. Check our www.champschool.com sign up for newsletter. Tons of articles on the blog and lots more video on Facebook.

Or rev matching

MSF is basic training and info for new riders. You don't teach trail braking to someone that doesn't know how to countersteer for example.

@@tripwarrobots8157 what is rev matching?

@@Snoupityblipping throttle when downshifting to match engine RPM

Technically the _bike_ lean angle doesn't depend on the speed so much as your _body_ position/angle does. You can have that bike leaned over to the maximum at only 5mph, as long as your body is perfectly counter-weighted the other direction. Add more speed/radius and your body counter-weights a bit less. Add more, now you're body is positioned neutral. Add more speed/radius and now you're body-leaning _with_ the bike so the bike doesn't tip too far and lowside. The bike is gonna lean how it's gonna lean to make the turn, so personally I think having body position awareness is more important.

Hallo etienne Schaarman! Think about using your brakes at a lighter pressure for a longer time into the corner. If you over slow the entry, you can use a neutral throttle if you are happy with your speed and direction of the motorcycle. You don't want to overlap throttle and brakes as you are giving the bike 2 different signals.

@@Ridelikeachampionycrs thanks for the answer

We always close the throttle completely while on the brakes. Always.

Ride Like A Champion Thank you very much!! The only way to ride!! Keep the vids coming.

The only time to use the throttle is to blip for downshift rev matching to keep from locking the rear tire.

Same technique. A slowing motorcycle decreases its radius, a accelerating motorcycle increases its radius.

It is all related to the amount of available of traction and duration at lean angle. If you rode a street bike on gravel, you would ride like a dirt bike.

Yep, get on it on a dirt road or a wash in the desert. Street bike will do the same as a dirt bike. The big difference happened in the 1980's. The Honda CB's, Kawasaki kz's etc. Had lots of trail & not a steep rake. You could kick out the backend like a dirt bike on the asphalt. They were also tank slappers! Get the front end light, they followed road imperfections. Ya get comfortable with it eventually. When all the newer sport bikes with 16 or 17 inch tires with a steeper rake & less trail came out. Had to be careful not to kick out the rear like the older bikes. Or you will high side. As much as I like the better handling of the newer bikes. I miss being able to kick out the rear like you could on he 60's, 70's, early 80's bikes with no fear of high siding. Having started riding dirt bikes. My opinion is that everyone should learn in the dirt before getting on the street. As well as truly understand how your motorcycle was designed to handle. There are simply body movements & memory mussle that gets built riding in the dirt that will help you out on the street. You simply cannot be sliding around doing what you can do in the dirt. Wreck get up & try it again. You will get seriously injured or killed doing that stuff on the street, or arrested. Having done all the sliding around in the dirt. Provides you with memory mussle that will save you in some circumstances on the street. Usually some asswipe in a car or pickup that forces you to slide around to keep from hitting them or going down.

and *turning.*

Well, there *is* a fast line through the corner, but to ride that fast line you have to trail your brakes into the turn and roll onto the throttle out of it, like they described in the video. A line alone won't make anyone fast.

Correct. Neutral throttle is no adding acceleration.

@@Ridelikeachampionycrs thanks!! See you in May at njmp for champ day!!

MikSane can’t wait to have you!!

Woot!

I’m in Texas how can we get these classes? I’m assuming that champ school is in California, can someone confirm where the school is?

Great points.

A follow up video to include this might be great; including stopping distance, reaction time, etc. This video could be remade to shorten the time. The animated diagrams and many examples are gold.

Thank you!

Actually, we are mostly in AZ....lol. 2022 schedule will be coming out soon with 6 - 7 events in AZ.

Get out to a school at Inde in Tucson!! It's so worth it, the school is fantastic and Inde is an absolutely incredible facility with a super fun track.

Those signs tell you how fast to go around the corner I usually go about 10 to 15 over comfortably

Keith from YCRS here. I've heard that before from other, less reliable sources and believe it is 100% incorrect as a stand-alone statement but knowing Keith (the original Keith) ain't no fool, I would need to see that to get the full context of the situation he is describing. I have the book so if you know what page, I would be happy to find and try to answer your question. If you can't find it or you are still not sure, go find a large empty parking lot and try both techniques and let us know what works. We're pretty confident we know the answer.

But when u add throttle the bike wants to standup not tighten. I'm not sure how adding throttle would tighten the line. You CAN however do that in a car with a limited slip differential, because the diff will change the torque distribution between the inner and outside tire and allow u to steer with the throttle. (Works in all cars with LSD especially in RWD). Dont do that with non LSD cars as they will behave like motorcycles and understeer... R=mph is a good way to think about it and will help you be more consistent in most vehicles. Cars with LSD CAN "BEND" this rule to a point... Once u exceed the traction limit or 100 points of grip its game over in any vehicle...

Bikes like the Ducati pannigale V4R CAN do what you describe but its because its traction control and yaw sensors are figuring things out for you and letting you do whats technically not possible... That said its better to learn good technique then use the bike to bend the rules than to have bad technique and rely on the bike to save you, or cover up your mistakes....

@@3star2nr "Technique over Technology" - well said. Interesting about the Ducati but speak to MotoAmerica Ducati Superbike racer Kyle Wyman about that before you try it on a V4R. Ain't nobody (in America) going faster than him on a Panigale and he never adds throttle to tighten his radius.

@@tommarrone1 agreed everything u said is fact. And yes you always want to think of tires as only able to do one thing well at a time. If u ask them to slow down, change direction, maintain grip and accelerate they are going to get "confused" I.e. give up grip. You have to constantly and smoothly transition between all 3 things

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Our winter home is Inde Motorsports Ranch in Wilcox AZ. They have a brilliant collection of vintage fighter jets. Its an amazing facility. Come visit us this year. We will have events in Feb, March, April, and Oct, Nov, and Dec there.

I have a fever

Yes, you can use both brakes. The limit is that as you apply brakes weight is transferred forward away from the rear tire, limiting the rear brakes effectiveness.

@@Ridelikeachampionycrs 🙏

I think the CSBS is sometimes misunderstood. I think the "throttle cracked open" thing is meant to emphasize that people shouldn't twitch the throttle on and off and upset the bike with fore and aft weight transfer, at least not in an ideal situation. They do also mention in Twist of the Wrist II that for things like double apex corners and other complex situations there are times where you may roll off the throttle, stand the bike up, and/or brake before taking the next corner. I think the explanation in this video is more complete and comprehensive whereas the CSBS is more of a soundbite to keep people from bucking their bike around corners.

CSS teaches maintenance throttle so you are not accelerating but the throttle is not closed. You are maintaining speed. When you get to your point in the corner where you can see the exit, maintenance throttle allows you to smoothly add throttle without the jerky transition from off throttle to on throttle.

Thanks!

Neither... the reality is that when riding downhill, you're inevitably going to be feeling like you're putting more weight into the front of the motorcycle through the handle bars as you're angled forwards. However, you'll actually need *more* brakes (as said in the video) for the front *tire* to see the same amount of load from the motorcycle. So either you were doing it properly and just weren't used to the sensation of loading more weight into the handlebars, or you were actually using too little brakes and the front was still under loaded

Try braking earlier and LIGHTER pressure for smoother slowing (no sudden forward weight transfer) and keep braking longer and that feeling of over braking and struggling to maintain traction will go away

Awesome!