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Ryan, Love the channel. My Uncle was a wheat farmer outside Ritzville, Wa. Always loved going over there and spending time on the farm. I'd love to see you just add some more footage of like the camera strapped to the equipment, like the shot of it underneath the rake. I do not know what it would add to your editing, but I just like watching the equipment working. Especially the chisel or harrow, rake, stuff like that. Keep up the good work, looks you guy's are starting to get set up pretty well. I know all the horror's and people will say that I'm wrong and all that crap, but if I had it all to do over, I'd have gone into farming. A lot of work I know, but I ended up doing that any way. :-( Thanks, Dave.
There's no doubt that the 4640 is Dwight's tractor. And as I always say, it's great to use the old iron to do work on the farm. Would the 4020 do this job if it had enough SCVs?
did it do a "clean" job? on some parts of the video it looks like he left quite some stuff behind, is that just wrong color grading on the camera or was it so?
Because some guys just don't get them moved off the field in a timely way. Sometimes we leave round bales sit in the field for 3-4 days after they're baled so they go through the "sweat" (ALL hay heats up slightly after it's baled and moisture continues to escape from the hay for several days after it's baled-- stacking it right after baling means the entire stack heats up more than if the bales were left on the field for a few days to heat up and then cool down, and it allows the moisture to escape easier) before it goes into the stack. Leaving the hay out there longer than a week at most, however, tends to cause the grass underneath the bales to die, leaving a dead patch in the field. We try to get all the hay off the field and stacked in rows, preferably up on pallets or light poles, within a week of baling (and usually less). If it rains within a few days of baling, particularly an unforeseen or heavy rain event, it can delay moving the bales for up to two weeks. It's better to just let the hay sit where it is than rut up the entire field trying to go pick up heavy bales and move them off the field. Some guys simply have too much ground to cover and not enough time to get it all done, and end up with hay sitting out in the field a lot longer than they should. Some guys are just lazy and won't move the bales until they need to haul them elsewhere to sell them or feed them. Like I said, not a good thing because it leaves dead spots in the field where the bales were sitting, but not insurmountable either-- the grass does (eventually) grow back... but the bales store better if they're moved off the field and put up on pallets or electric utility poles or gravel or old tires or concrete blocks or in a barn or shed or under a tarp or whatever preferred method of storage one has... Later! OL J R :)
enjoy your videos and whats your opinion on starting a hay farm part time business 100 acres to 260 acres and i am studying to get my cdl class a and drive local and put money away for a down payment and starting from the beginning and get my own land and equipment and start with used equipment john Deere 430 4x4 baler or 630 new Holland 4x4 round baler and i am going to buy land in west Tennessee i grew up with my grandpa helping him on a cattle and hay farm and he was a care taker of the farm and passed away but from five till i got in high school and i loved it and the long hours and hard work wount have it any other way and have a nice day
Why some people think the John Deree 4640 to big use in the hay field? Some people think that tractor should only be used in a bean field pulling a set of choppers
The rakes push all the hay to the centre which means any already on that line would be buried. This turns it over so you don't have that hay still on the ground, essentially putting dried hay underneath.
These rakes used in the USA were used in europe quite a while back. I believe the spinny one like you mentioned does a better job but its a bit more slower and more expensive to buy and maintain. And I am from the Netherlands and we only have those rotor ones and not the wheeled ones.
Different rakes for different jobs. There's overlap of course but basically it comes down to preference. Might ask you guys why you use one of those complicated rotary rakes with their PTO driven gearboxes and complex cams and arms that break and require high maintenance instead of the simple wheel rakes... it's because over time the preference has switched to the rotary rake in your area. Decades past wheel rakes were considered a "European" rake and weren't particularly popular in the US... back then most farmers used "rolabar" type rakes with a backwards turning slanted basket. Now the wheel rakes have become a lot more popular, but you still see some rolabar rakes used in some areas for some crops and conditions. We use rolabars here because we're using our older rakes that we've had a long time. Most new rakes sold around this area are wheel-type rakes. Virtually NOBODY uses the rotary "European" style rakes down here... they're too expensive, too many moving parts, have a complex and expensive gearbox and cam track and roller system that has to be maintained and repaired, and with their dinky little wheels under them wouldn't last long on our rough fields compared to smooth fields elsewhere. About the only guys you see in the US running rotary style rakes are baling for persnickety, hard-to-please customers-- dairies that claim the 'ash content' of hay raked by wheel rakes or rolabar rakes is too high, or guys baling hay for horse people, who are notoriously hard to please. That, and a few guys who want to run their baler at highway speed across the field and claim that "roped hay" from a wheel rake or rolabar rake is harder to bale and slows them down, and who PREFER the "tall fluffy windrows" from a rotary rake, and are willing to spend the extra money to buy and maintain a rotary rake. IOW, most hay guys prefer the wheel rakes or big unitized basket rakes... OL J R :)
Duals are to add traction and flotation. Usually you put them on for harvest season (when you need the additional traction for pulling a heavy grain cart or pulling out a stuck combine or truck) and tillage season (when you need the additional traction to efficiently transmit power to the ground to pull large, heavy implements through hard soil). Usually they're left on for planting season as well (since it's usually fairly wet in the spring and you need the additional flotation and traction to pull heavy planters through soft ground) but for some jobs duals are just a pain in the butt-- like pulling hay rakes, hay mowers, and balers, or stuff like that. The duals stick out wider, run down more grass/hay, and harder to turn with and maneuver with. Since you don't need the traction to pull a fairly light haybine or rake on dry ground (dry enough to make hay on) and you don't need the flotation on dry ground, and the duals are usually in the way because they stick out wider, it's usually best to remove the duals for hay season. Usually when a tractor is being used to cultivate weeds out of the crop rows or pulling a sprayer, it's also common to drop the duals off to reduce the amount of tracks in the field and damage to the crops. Later! OL J R :)
had a new holland rake just like that. it takes 5 acres to turn it around because the trailing wheels are so far back and the hitch will hit the back tire of tractor when turning. transporting it also was horrible........ all of the sudden the front wheels would start shimmying and squaling going down the road. it would also leave hay lay in the waterways because of the length between front and back axle. i would not buy it. just my 2 cents
They're called "kicker wheels"... they're typically used to flip over that part of the swath that would be "unraked" because it went directly between the rear wheels of the rake... the grass in that unraked swath would not be flipped over or mixed with the other hay, meaning it wouldn't dry out as well. Plus, it would have the other windrows from the rest of the rake piled up on top of it, mashing it down to the ground, so that when the baler comes along, it wouldn't pick that hay up very well off the ground, causing the baler to miss a lot of hay. The kicker wheels rake the hay off the ground that would otherwise be stuck down to the ground by the windrow on top of it... by moving it over and tossing it on top of the hay to either side, which WILL be raked up and moved back over into the path where the kicker wheels had passed, the hay all gets mixed up together and rolled up together into a uniform windrow, and so it's moved and flipped and can dry out better, and it's all "mixed in" with the rest of the hay in the windrow so the baler can pick it up better. Later! OL J R :)
the things u miss doing when u loose the farm hay making was the one thing I loved doing the most I know how to make chunky people thin as a rail stack hay wagons all day for a summer that was my job we did not have the latest and greatest machines but what we did have made use money but to many bad years and last years drought killed off the farm know I work in a foundry and I hate it so much I swear one day I will buy back my fathers farm
You could buy two or three of these rakes for what ONE rotary rake would cost. This rake would still be raking hay long after that rotary was worn out and required EXPENSIVE major repairs to the gearbox and cam track and followers and probably new arms and pivots and was basically ready for the junk heap. That's why... OL J R :)
They have WAY more than 40 acres, and it's only 3 or 4 swaths of hay, it's really not that big, we run a 2 swath hay rake and it's pretty good size for what we do, we used to run a bar rake. Our neighbors have a rake like the one in the vid, don't know what brand but it has 12 or 14 wheels. My point is that it's really not as big as you make it sound and it's really not overkill for a 40 acre field. And they have more hay fields btw...
David Harris that's why I love our speed rake no silly braces needed for transport and how it opens and adjusts the width of the window if needed since we often change widths to pick up 2 or 3 of the mowers windrows depending on thickness.
Yeah, that's a crummy design IMHO. I wouldn't want that at all... I like the idea of two wheels for each side arm, because it could save a lot of wear and tear and damage if one wheel dropped say into one of their sinkholes... BUT, having the first one stick out three feet beyond the end of the rake swath, that's just stupid. They should have put that second wheel back about midway down the rake arm-- one wheel near the front end, the other in the middle. Maybe mounted them on a pivot or something like a walking beam so they equalize the load and can "walk" over high spots without lifting the other wheel completely off the ground. Later! OL J R :)
I know "Ted Talks", "Teddy Bears", and "Ted"nancy to be wrong... but I am puzzled about "tedding hay". Spell check is unfamiliar as well. Could you get a little more in depth please?
It's a really old farming phrase, spell check won't do it. It simply means to stir up hay on the ground so that it can dry thoroughly. Hay is then placed into windrows so as to defeat the wind at it's attempts to scatter the hay so thinly that it can't be picked up and baled by the baler.
Thanks. Kinda understood the mechanics of it, but really curious about the origin and meaning of "tedding". Possibly comes from "tending"? Thanks again and be safe.
Thanks... and understand, but the term "tedding". How's that fit in? Does all mown hay need tedding, or does it depend on weather and other drying circumstances? Thanks again.
I was curious too, but wiki only states the machines came from england in the 1880s and comprise several different methods of fluffing the hay up so air flow is enhanced. And no source for the name tedding so it could be Ted's machine for all we can know. More likely the term applied in england and is lost in transition from their antiquated ways first. No, not all hay needs tedding, mostly for thick tall and fine growth like this grass. Some high yield alfalfa too. Our sudan grass, sudan/sorgham cross is regularly windrowed by the swather which cuts it first all in one go. It has crimpers which break the stalks so that they will dry out in the windrow and alfalfa is done the same way here in colorado. However blister beetles have to be very low in count or the hay is not suitable for horses due to the poison in the crushed blister beetles.
because it was given to him by rhino for free. they have a contract with rhino that allows him to use equipment of his pickings and after 3 years he can buy the ones he wants.
I think it is also because it allows them to expand their hay operation. If they want more cows they'll need more hay, meaning they'll need a bigger rake anyway
Rob Pond they very much are I have a wing take can't remember the brand 🤢 but I work for a guy that has one and it seems like a waste of money it does the exact same job and the wing take we use is extremely Maneuverable
