My '14s OE batteries lasted 6 years; one in Indiana, one in Michigan, and the rest at the coast of North Carolina. In 2020 I replaced them with Wal-Mart's equivalent which lasted only 18 months. This happened around the same time my alternator went out (145k miles), which in these trucks can cause major issues, send you down rabbit holes, and leave you stranded. It all happened when my wife was driving the truck. On a trip to the grocery store the truck went into limp mode (red lightning bolt) and threw codes for the throttle valve (there's no throttle valve on the truck anymore) and for an issue with the #6 injector. The thing sounded like it was down a cylinder! She called and I told her to try clearing the codes with my Edge CTS2 monitor but to no avail. She had to wait hours for an 8 mile tow which the insurance company ended up not covering (about $500). Now here's the kicker: If I would have tried trouble shooting the codes I would have been looking at potentially replacing an injector and the PCM! Turns out the alternator was on it's last leg but you'd never know it; no codes, everything worked as expected, etc. It just randomly went into limp mode with random codes one day. When I got the truck home I changed over to a Mean Green 300 amp alternator and got two new Duralast Golds and she's been good as new ever since. Lesson learned is that these trucks have very sensitive computer systems that, with just a bad battery or weak alternator, can cause major headaches! Hope this helps someone because it is not uncommon. 👍
Sooo….you blame a WM battery for poor quality when IN Fact it was your failed alternator (and your amateur, unauthorized unapproved modifications) that caused the problem… Then when a good alternator is coupled to replacement batteries (mfr’d by the same maker to similar specs as the WM’s) …you proclaim the less economical batteries as superior? You FAIL in Logic.
@@ghorn3136 What a fail in logic looks like is your assumption that my "amateur, unauthorized unapproved modifications", which are neither unauthorized or unapproved and impact the truck's electrical system so little that they are not measurable and would be impossible to cause the problem, are what caused the problem. Congratulations.
I appreciate the info! Thanks for sharing as I am new to diesel ownership and maintenance. Out here in Colorado and the weather varies from pretty hot to very cold throughout seasons. Trying to learn all that I can to keep my truck tip top and safe
Thats funny... this morning the ol cummins didnt wanna start untill i put the jumper on it.... its a 2019 ram with factory batteries.... about 2 years and done... This video came out in perfect time!! Time to buy some duracells! Thank you sir!!
My 14 had one battery go bad in 11 months. I replaced both with Deca batteries and they lasted 5 years. I replaced them again and one of the batteries exploded in a year. Sometimes you have good luck with batteries and sometimes you don’t. I’m running Interstate Batteries now. Let’s see how they last.
Thanks for the video and clarification. I thought the original was AGM also but now knowing it was not makes sense why the original batteries went to fast compared to the AGMs I installed. I did go to 850 CCA from the original 730 CCA which I thought had something to do with it but likely just the fact that the new is AGM.
We had -5 for 3+ days and the 2500 2017 Diesel would not fire. Factory batts. Too funny as i had just paid it off last month and had to put new tires on it and brakes and said now at 5years its time for batts. So was traveling when it happened so went to local advanced auto parts and got a couple Die-hards and found it interesting that there is no such thing as a 5 year bat anymore... middle of the road was 3year and for 20 more could get a "platnum" with 4 years. So dropped both in (800amps) and back in business. I was fortunate as the main bat on driver side had a heck of a bulge in it. Even wilder was factory bat was date stamped 2013. Went on a lot of forums and found that 3years is a long time for those mopar bats. I guess i was very lucky. Cheers.
Marion, it looks like you installed the L-shaped vent on your uracell. My old batteries didn't use vents. Wasn't sure if I should use them so I left them off. Looks like I may want to recosider my decision! Thanks again for your informatve videos!
They’re really not necessary unless you want to connect a tube to it and pipe it somewhere else. the battery doesn’t vent unless something goes haywire so you really don’t have to worry about putting them on. Unless you just want to point the vent downward
I'm in SoCAL. I bought Laramie new in 2018 and the batteries crapping out now. Dual alternator optioned. Dead batteries... That's why I'm here. What in the world is this?
Is it possible that your dealer replaced your original agm batteries with flooded batteries? I know for sure my 2014 and 2017 came with agm’s as original equipment. Also, fun fact, there’s only 2 or 3 major battery manufacturers for starting batteries. Johnson controls (Clarios) makes about 70% of them, I think the others are East Penn/Deka & Exide. There’s a good chance the original mopar batteries and the duracells were made by the same company. Energsys makes the Odyssey and Northstar batteries, which are supposed to be very good and expensive, but I don’t know that they’d fall into one of the major manufacturers for starting batteries since they are focused in other industries.
The Odyssey batteries are excellent and worth the money in my experience. Keep in mind there are foreign-made batteries which are supplied as OEM batteries in some cars. I don’t believe the OEM RAM batteries are AGM. The diesel uses dual 730cca standard lead maintenance free batteries and the Hemi uses a single, but identical 730cca battery.
Thanks for the videos! Heavy duty diesel trucks are new to me and your videos have been perfect for learning about my truck. Did you have a "Battery Saver Mode" message pop up on your dash? Was this the first sign that the batteries were failing? I live in Canada, so starting in the cold would draw a lot of power for the grid heater. I have had this message start popping up on cold days if the truck has been sitting for a few days.
2018 ram Cummins, 3500 I bought new. Just went out the other day and batteries have now failed. hopefully that’s it and not the starter. With the ignition on, I went through the screen to look at voltage, and the voltage was way down.🤔
I'll be changing the batteries in my 2018 Ram 6.7 in 2023 before a planned trip to Florida late in the year. Your discussion about batteries is very timely for me. I'll be replacing the alternator also as it seems to be failing. Any suggestions for me to look at on a good replacement alternator would be appreciated. Thank you!
Go heavy and it will last forever. Extra $100 for a good one compared to light side OEM alternator. Just my two cents… I ordered my 18 ram with the heavy alternator and it failed last year also. Sometimes they just go bad sometimes they last forever.
The stock 220a single alternator gets overwhelmed by the grid heater cycling during the cold weather we have in the north. The headlights repeatedly dim and blower slows. That’s ridiculous on what is a new, very expensive powerful truck! The duals solve the problem. I also think the batteries are not large enough.
Marlon, what year is your truck? I have a 22 and the dealer assured me that I have AGM. But that’s not the main concern. The concern is, if the dealer is wrong, and the batteries are indeed lead acid, then what are you doing about the alternator charge current for the new AGm? As you may know, unless the charging current is 14.5+ volts max, then your AGM batteries will not last! What are you doing about this?
Great point, you need to disconnect both batteries simultaneously when replacing them. This will allow the “Intelligent Battery Sensor” to learn the new batteries and provide the correct charge and voltage.
Most modern trucks can limit their charge to handle the AGM. This one does. I suspect the newer trucks to have the AGM‘s, I should know but I don’t. The 14s didn’t have AGM.
@@MarionBlair I would highly recommend that whatever we go by is 'factual' and not an assumption. Perhaps you can perform a quick charging voltage test to be sure that yours & our 'most modern' trucks indeed do this and functions correctly. AGMs are very expensive, and it would be a shame if these expensive batteries are dead within 2-3 years based on our 'assumptions'
I also have a 22 and there is nothing written on the batteries suggesting they would be AGM. I doubt very much it is AGM. If it would be RAM would say so as it is a more expensive battery. When it comes to charge voltage there is very little difference between wet and AGM. As a matter of fact Lifeline who only build AGM recommends 14.6V. But charge voltage varies a little bit, depending on the manufacturer. What hurts AGM batteries is if they are charged at a High Voltage for extended periods. So if the regulator does not regulate down, to a float voltage when the batteries are SOC 100%, they will suffer. That happens is if you are driving for many hours and charging with high voltage . The fluid in the absorbed mats will dry out and the battery will slowly die. Unfortunately it is the same problem with so called “maintenance free batteries” I’m not sure if RAM regulate down to a float voltage?
@@a2022z2 well put. My concerns exactly. Many change out battery types based on ‘assumptions’ and not facts. At least take a volt meter and confirm that ram’s alternator is indeed supplying the correct charging voltage.
