Update: The problem, in my case at least, was not the relay and I never actually replaced it. The trick I came up with was just a bypass to get vehicle moving until I was able to figure out the real issue. I actually ended up running my own relay under the hood with a button in the vehicle to start car. Ultimately, I discovered that the real problem was the transmission ECU. It is located in the black box that is bolted closed under the hood, on left side of engine. There is a small cooling fan at the bottom of that compartment that cools the two ECUs inside. This fan failed and caused one of the ECUs to burn out. In my case the transmission ECU. I knew that was the issue as soon as I opened the box as the plastic harness that holds them was melted. A clear sign that it got incredibly hot in there. If you decide to go this route, you can find a transmission ECU on eBay fairly cheap. Keep in mind you will have to have it programmed to your vehicle before it will work. Also, be sure to make ventilation for the box or you will just burn it again. I made holes on either side of the box and put a 12v computer fan on one side for better and more reliable ventilation then the joke the vehicle came with. FYI: I am not a mechanic or RU-vidr. I’m just a handy guy who thought I’d share my fix to help out. Good luck!
Do I leave the tester hooked up to the negative and I put one jumper cable on the positive and the other end clipped on the tester and touch it and what wire
@@joneames6250 No, it does not need to be hooked up to the negative. It actually doesn’t even have to be a tester. The reason I used a tester was to extend the positive from the bulky jumper cable while reducing it to something pointy enough to get it where it needs to go. You can actually use anything pointy and metal. I had my tester with me from checking wires which worked for what I needed.
Hi ray great video im having exact same problem exact same symptoms but diagnostic is showing uooo1 and c1a00 and alsorts of codes but noting on ecu will have a look at ecu next and really appreciate video top notch!! you should do this more thats amazing how you figured it out and thanks
It worked for me, thanks! I have a 2005 range rover L322 and the key wouldn’t turn so I had to do the key bypass so it will turn, and I use this bypass with the push button start to get it started. Probably save me $1000 and from buying a new column.
@@maddyhutch1 they changed the range Rover after 2005 so you have to do further research, my range Rover has the BMW engine in it, I think yours may have a Jaguar engine.
@cryptoray thanks for the amazing video. Just so happens i have the exact same car(white HSE and specs )but a 2009. Having the same prob. Will try to diagnose it now using your vid as help. The issue happens once every month or so. I turn the key and no crank...it fixes itself after a few hrs of rest and maybe cooling down.
Hey Ray i have a 2006 range rover hse and i have don Rob the car guy bypass on for turning the key and unlocking my steering wheel. But now when i turn the key it wont crank the car 🤔🤔 any insight i have the 2006 jaguar engine not sire why it didnt work? Any advice or inaight would be helpful
A wiring diagram will show that relay and the fuse that runs it if the fuse is good it might be a broken wire at least if you need a new wire it will run from the correct fuse
I hope this works for me. Just got a 2009 Rover sport high mileage. I just hear a electrical click from the fuse box when attempting to crank it. Just swapped the battery
I have a 2010 land rover range rover and i just got off work and its doing this to me right now. I've never touch a vehicle like this before. (Its not mine. So i dont want to do anything to it.) I'm wondering if this applies to the 2010 model as well?
What wire is it is one of the black ones or the blue or yellow and can u give me step by step and do i leave the negative wire from the tester hooked up
You will have to look at the video very carefully to see which one it is. I posted this video several years ago and have since sold the vehicle. I don’t remember exactly which one or was. I am not a mechanic or a RU-vidr. Just a guy who wanted to share his problem and fix to help others. Good luck.
Im having a problem with my hse 2004 lately it has been draining my battery i had it replace in the past 6 months 4 times n it still drains it after 4 hrs of sitting. ? Know how i can fix this ? Was this ur problem too?
I just went to a small foreign automotive repair shop locally. Any Range Rover dealership should be able to do it for you as well. They will charge more likely though. I would also start with the transmission unit which is right next to the main unit under the hood.
Great video, i’m having this exact issue but it’s intermittent, one day it might work fine, i take a 5 minute drive to the shops, and it doesnt crank… one a couple of occasions yesterday it cranked for a split second (like 0.25 seconds) giving that dead battery type sound, but this has only happened a couple of times, most often it just does not crack and makes no noise, then after about 10 tries it fires up. What would you suggest i check please?… it cant be same issue as your as it’s so intermittent? Thanks in advance
@@RDR1456 Was the ignition barrel giving you any hints that was the problem (such as key sticking)? What lead you to conclude that was the problem (mechanically, mine seems to operate just fine). Did you try WD40 in it, as a potential solution?
@@stephenburnage7687 take centre off and get to the barrel. Seperate it from the ignition switch. If the ignition switch starts the car with key in barrel then you know the issue is the barrel.
I appreciate that the solution here was to replace the transmission ECU but could it equally have been a simple starter relay problem? Asking as I have 2008 Sport with an intermittent starter problem. Wouldn't an ECU fault be a consistent problem, whereas a relay is more likely to inconsistently play up? The intermittent nature is quite curious: Might run for weeks without an issue and then fail to start when you least suspect it. Changed the battery and have good volts off the alternator. Also, a parasitic load is unlikely as it sometimes fails to restart after sitting idle for only a short period.
@@nathanh7976 Yes, I did and the cause was not what I had expected. The problem was not electrical but mechanical (an occassionaly failing starter motor bendix).
Jay Dowen I’ve replaced both the transmission and main. They are both located under the hood on passenger side under a black plastic cover just forward of the battery. You can find them both on eBay but will have to have them programmed.
raymond what happen to running a wire from the neg. cable to the pos. battery bracket, to reset ECu?.....not sure what u did there, good job, but not sure it will help, rather try process of limination first
From my understanding disconnecting the battery and touching the positive cable to the negative cable will reset the system. However I am not a mechanic and I’m not sure if that will work. Did not do work for me. Once I was able to get vehicle started with the trick in video, I had to replace the transmission ECU. It is located in the black box to the left of the engine underneath the hood. Turns out there’s a fan at the bottom of that box that is known to fail. Once it does, the compartment heats up and causes the ECU to fail. I had to replace it two times before I discovered that I needed to make a ventilation system for the box. I did so by cutting a hole at the bottom of either side of the box and putting a small 12V fan on one side. You can also just replace the generator already in the system. However, I believe my ventilation system is better. I have since sold the vehicle and I’m glad I did so. Hope this helps. Good luck!
@@cryptoray3009 your vid was a life saver to most, but I just couldnt follow it with all due respect. Is there a starter relay in the fuse box that I can just replace, instead of jumping the wires on the starter relay???
J Marciano the issue for me was actually not the relay it was the transmission ECU. I am jumping the relay and you can likely just stick a wire in it but replacing it will not fix the problem. It will just get your vehicle started. The issue, in my case either way is the ECU
J Marciano in my case it was not the mobilizer. Unfortunately, I do not know where to find that code. As I mentioned before I’m not a mechanic. Just had an issue that I found a quick work around for and figured I could help someone else that may be experiencing the same problem. Hope I was of some help.
I believe there are several different computer types for these vehicles. It is best to remove the one in your particular vehicle to get the number from it. It is the transmission ecu located in the black box front passenger side of vehicle under hood.
@@cryptoray3009 Thank you. I did get a photo of the numbers but I also discovered to my delight that my vehicle starts in neutral and in park if I put it in neutral first and back to park or leave it in neutral. Would the transmission ECU have something to do with that and/or just the Neutral sensing switch?
@@cryptoray3009 plz I m from Romanian and I needed help. I have the same problem don t start. U changed only reley ? After starting ? Range rover vogue 2005
Andre Doros the problem was not the relay and I never actually replaced it. The trick I came up with was just a bypass to get vehicle moving till I was able to figure out the real issue. Until I did, I actually ended up running my own relay with a button in the vehicle to start car. Ultimately, I discovered that the real problem was the transmission ECU. It is located in the black box that is bolted closed under the hood on left side of engine. There is a small cooling fan at the bottom of that compartment that cools the two ECUs inside. This fan failed and caused one of the ECUs to burn out. In my case the transmission ECU. I knew that was the issue as soon as I opened the box as the plastic harness that holds them was melted. I clear sign that it got incredibly hot in there. If you decide to go this route, you can find a transmission ECU on eBay fairly cheap. Keep in mind you will have to have it programmed to your vehicle before it will work. Also, be sure to make ventilation for the box or you will just burn it again. I made holes on either side of the box and put a 12v computer fan on one side for better and more reliable ventilation then the joke the vehicle came with. FYI: I am not a mechanic or RU-vidr. I’m just a handy guy who thought I’d share my fix to help out. Good luck!
Andre Doros the problem was not the relay and I never actually replaced it. The trick I came up with was just a bypass to get vehicle moving till I was able to figure out the real issue. Until I did, I actually ended up running my own relay with a button in the vehicle to start car. Ultimately, I discovered that the real problem was the transmission ECU. It is located in the black box that is bolted closed under the hood on left side of engine. There is a small cooling fan at the bottom of that compartment that cools the two ECUs inside. This fan failed and caused one of the ECUs to burn out. In my case the transmission ECU. I knew that was the issue as soon as I opened the box as the plastic harness that holds them was melted. I clear sign that it got incredibly hot in there. If you decide to go this route, you can find a transmission ECU on eBay fairly cheap. Keep in mind you will have to have it programmed to your vehicle before it will work. Also, be sure to make ventilation for the box or you will just burn it again. I made holes on either side of the box and put a 12v computer fan on one side for better and more reliable ventilation then the joke the vehicle came with. FYI: I am not a mechanic or RU-vidr. I’m just a handy guy who thought I’d share my fix to help out. Good luck!
having some issues, not helping , what else??????im gna torch my 2010 RR rite now.......help, battery new, only 47k...wont sstart, very little, interior lites and radio coming despite new battery
Mine is doin the same thing but mine totally looses power when the switch is turned over . When the key is turned to 1 all lights come on and the radio works . Battery is good but as soon as i go to 2 to start Some breaker or something kicks out and all power is lost . Can anyone help me with this ?
I am not a mechanic or a RU-vidr by trade just a guy who likes to fix thing and thought I’d put out some helpful info since I was able to found a workaround to the problem I was having. I unfortunately don’t know what may cause that. It sounds to me like a battery issue. I would have it checked at the store. I would also consider the starter. Could be locked up. Good luck!
Thanks My man !! I did have it checked this evening . Figured out that The negative battery terminal was loose at the back end . Replaced the terminal , back in the game .
@@cryptoray3009Hey bro I was wondering if you could help me with mine my 2004 just recently started acting up. The key won't turn I have to disconnect the ECU from the steering column but before I would just hit the switch on then off its connected to fuse 18 a bypass but now that doesn't work at all and key only turns when I disconnect then connect the ECU under steering column... And even after I get key to turn it won't crank at all... The battery is fully charged but it's a small one u think that's the problem is a 680cca 😐 I know the RR needs a 900cca... What do you think might have happened? Plz help me bro I don't know what else to do...
Ended up needing a new transmission computer. It is located in a large black box under the hood just forward (toward front of vehicle) of the battery compartment. I purchased one on eBay for about $50 and had it programmed to the vehicle at a local European auto shop for about $200.
