Range Rover l322 Blower Motor Replacement The Easy Way! 

Thank you Evan for making this video.. I just completed this job in under 6 hours on my 2012 LR RR hse lux. I do have some suggestions or tips that made it easier for me. I used my 20v Dewalt oscillating tool in place of the Dremel tool. To cut away the dash piece it made much less mess and was way easier. Also instead of using the cardboard on suggestion from another comment I used the metal 10” putty/taping knife to protect the wires when removing the plastic box. I also used the oscillating tool for that removal. It was soooo much easier. Once the old blower motor was out. I used it to figure out how much more plastic to remove for an easier install of the new motor as you do not want to damage the new motor upon installation. It is a very tight fit. Also upon disassembling the dash in my vehicle the glove boxes upper & lower require power to open so make sure to put some ductape over the latches before disconnecting your battery. Make sure to TAKE YOUR TIME. not all my screws were the same so be sure to have a way to organize them to ease the reinstallation. You will need a torques T30 T25 & T20 bits. Also Have a good set of trim panel removal tools. Also I did not have to replace the front stage resistor. I did have a new 1 on hand but did not need it and returned it as it is more expensive than the blower motor. Just so we’re are clear The Rang Rover dealership said this was a 25 hour job and would cost over $3000. Doing it this way was worth my time, money and energy. I do not suggest anyone do this job unless you have some mechanical skill… good luck to all you dyi’ers

To anyone watching this : this absolutely worked for me, but I have a few notes. My A/C stopped working and I had no idea why. Replaced the final stage resistor with no luck, then found this video. There are a couple things I'm going to mention here. 1) This is a $2k repair at a Euro car shop, easily. They'll want to take apart the entire front of the car. It'll get done right, but it will cost you. They might also say they have other stuff they need to check before the blower. If you value your time, you should find a way to make money to pay for this fix. 2) Do this with a friend. I would have lost my mind doing this alone. My brother helped and we were able to get it. There were so many times we were ready to throw in the towel and we pushed through. Getting the blower in was insanely difficult and took us hours because there wasn't enough room. 3) Get sheet metal scissors. They make quick work of some of the stuff near the end with trimming away plastic. We broke like 4 dremel tools trying to do it, plus it was terrifying to use the Dremel with a million wires there. 4) Tons of screw. Mark everything! You will mess up and lose stuff. 5) Do this outdoors on a windy day, wear a mask and eye gear. Cutting plastic with Dremel is nasty, fumes everywhere. I probably have cancer now. Look, I'm glad I saved money. But if I were smart, I would have just avoided this dumb Rover from the get go. I love driving it but holy crap these repairs are unreal.

I finally completed this job. It works. A tip, when messing with thr box that houses the wiring harness, place your hand under the lid, and push up and the lid will remove so no need to cut it, you'll only then need to cut the bottom. For anyone doing this, just cut away as much plastic as possible. In the end I cut way more to get the motor in vs getting the old motor out. Goodluck, wear gloves.

Thanks! I just completed this operation on my wife’s vehicle and your video was a big saver!

@EvanDoesEverything UPDATE: I finished the job a few weeks ago on my 2012 and can confirm that this works for the 10-12 face-lift models as well. The only difference is that there is an extra vent for the nav unit that has to have its mount cut when cutting the top deck area (duct is attached elsewhere so it is not removable) to keep the nav unit end of this vent from rattling around I used plenty of 3m double sided tape when reinstalling. Another huge help is instead of using cardboard for a backboard while cutting the plastic bits get a 10" metal painters tape knife. Instead of the drywall cutting bit I used a standard cutting bit (not a wheel as it is tight down there and my dremel is a very compact model). I also had to cut more plastic near the wiring loom than I thought. On max speed my new fan does scrape on something a little due to a small crack on one of the blades on install. Hasn't been an issue on auto yet. Easy fix is turn fan down 1 notch if it ever goes to Max automatically. Thanks again for the video. Reply with your VENMO for some extra thanks.

Evan, I'm taking the plunge, and just wanted to add to the chorus of thanks for sharing this. There's no pretence that it's an optimal solution, but on ageing vehicle it's a fair route . . . thanks also to the guys who have added their learnings along the way. . . goodbye knuckles. . .

Thanks, you're my hero... I have this task on my to-do list since months, now finally found your video and I will dare to try this too.

Brilliant work - Just shows there is always 'another way'. Well done, great job

God bless you man - thanks for this video!!!

The best video on RU-vid. Thanks!!!!!!

Doing blower motor exactly same way today. Fiy blower motor it’s the same as in Bmw e39, e53 and for some reason Bmw blowers are cheaper. Got valeo for around $80

Thanks Evan your a legend.

Thank you boss you are the smart one

I'm about to tackle this. Thank you for the video. If I run into an issue I'll post here.

Thank you 🙏

Thank you! Mine is still OK but now I know what to do if it fails.

Thanks, this gives me hope!! I will try it and report!

Hi tysm for posting this video! Now that we have the new blower installed, it’s making a very bad rattling noise on max AC. Any ideas?

Thnx much for the video. Could you suggest a list of needed tools and likely replacement fasteners, clips needed.

hi! I am dealing with possibly the same issue: the blower motor stopped running. I had replaced the final stage resistor last winter, and everything was fine, for 6 months. In December the heater stopped blowing air again. I thought: no big deal, replaced the final stage resistor again, and nothing happened. It looks like I may need to replace the blower motor. Question: where did you get the replacement motor? Thanks again for sharing the video and experience.

Thanks for nice and klean how to i’ve starting this job now on my 😅👍

Nice job!!!!

neat job. How little extra effort would LR have had to make to provide some removable sections - madness - but I guess that wouldn't make their workshops so much money!

Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to post it. I've hit a roadblock - can't get the blower cover off. It's huge and bulky. I can pull at the sides, but top and bottom are so big and I can't wiggle it out (how on earth does it go back in?!). Any tips? Which side came out first?

Those air vents are simple to pop out, just pry them out with a plastic pry tool

Eva,great video. Can I ask what fault code you got on your OBDII? Also, was there a whirring sound coming from the interior when the air conditioning was on? Cheers James

Hi Evan, great video. Will this work on a 2012 Evoque? thank you

Hi. Great video. I have exactly the same problem with my 2011 SC. I've replaced the resistor twice in the last 6 months and it's gone again. Dealership is saying fan motor is drawing lots of current. Are you in business? Where are you located? Just wondered if you could do mine! Thanks.

Have u got any spare round overfich exhaust tip for sale

Hi Evan, Thanks much for this impressive video - I fear I may have to go this way on my 2002 pet... but before doing so I remember you mentioned (at the beginning of your video) that you changed a resistor several times (and it blew just as many times). Can you please tell me where this resistor is located ? Thanks !

Nice💪

Question? We just had a shop replace the blower motor and everything is back together but the motor won’t run. They say it needs to be programmed by a Landrover shop (400 miles away). Any have any other suggestions on “programming “ the blower motor??

Did you happen to notice if you could get to the ac expansion vavle this way? It's somewhere up in there ?

Evan, my motor works but it squeaks. I would like to try spraying some lubricant on the bearings. Which part of the motor houses the bearings?

I would worry about airbag function maybe the dash is incorporated to the way the airbag explodes you could compromise safety possibly

Would you know where the blower motor resistor is located on a 2016 evoque left hand drive? Thx

Hey man, not to be “that guy” but im having a hell of a time with my 2012. Long story short, i have warm air on pass front vents with “max ac” on. My manifold guages suggested a compressor solenoid failure but i still have cool air in the rest of the truck, My question is, how often have you heard of the CCM(climate cont module) going out? I know the jag guys have issues with the trace burning out….. Anyways, i tested my leads going to the heater cont valve and ive got 12v in the middle, ground on one but 3.something volts on the other…. Like the CCM is requesting heat to that side? I have the iLand tool, but i cant find a PiD for heater core temp, or any other temp sensor for that matter so idk if CCM is receiving bad data and requests heat because of that or that PWM ground circuit is just burnt…. What do you think? Thanks for your time….

Does this work with a 2004 model

Is there a particular new motor you would recommend? Any to avoid?

@evandoeseverything174 How on Earth did you get the new blower motor in? Did you remove anything extra? I've followed your steps to the T, and my blower motor replacement is OEM. It is like fitting a circle in a square hole that is too small. It does not by any means drop in and I'm stuck because I don't want to force it and break a fin on the new blower motor. Please help!

Would this work on a 2019 Discovery Sport LE? Currently, my HVAC fan will not turn off, even when the vehicle is turned off and locked. I got a quote but it's $8000..... *crying*

Where is the immobilizer when you remove the vents? I'm working on a 2011 US model and either I'm a complete idiot (quite likely) or possibly they moved it from where it was in your year model? I'd think I could recover from most things other than cutting into that! Thanks for the video, my independent quoted me $3500 last fall. (Yes, I've put it off almost a full year.)

Hmm, not the early, say 2002-2004, maybe even later L322s. The dash, especially the top, is completely different. The early L322 doesn't have the big vents in the top front of the dash. Removing them gives a lot of access. I looked at this video because I need to access the blower motor. Something is rubbing against the fan blades and it makes a terrible clattering sound that varies with fan speed. I can't see what it is from under the bonnet after removing the intake system even when using an inspection camera poked into the fan.

OMG, he took the dashboard out! jaw dropping.........Could Land Rover have put it anywhere harder to get too. Most are behind the glove box on cars generally, but hey it would not be a LR if it was easy.......my wallet has anxiety attacks when i mention the word Range Rover........As per RR workshop manual..to change wiper blades. First remove engine and lift chassis off, then drain all fluids and cry for a while. Multiple boxes of tissues required for all service work............ My RRS has cost me north of 15K in repairs and maintenance in under 3 years................not kidding...........ouch......it's a love hate relationship.

How long did the job take you?

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You dont have to do any of that you mentioned in the beginning of the video. You came all that way, you could of spent another 15 minutes to remove the underlayment plastic dash and you wouldnt have to cut ANYTHING. let the rattling and creaking begin!

Beware of this video...he leaves out ALOT of stuff that's pretty difficult, like my 2010 L322 you can't move the box with the wires in it, making it impossible to remove the blower motor cover.