Nylon isn’t that difficult, one of the secrets is print it dry, as dry as you can (I’ll put in the oven at 70-80’C for a couple of hours first), slow, and with NO fan or draft of air at all (will cause delamination issues, especially with CF based nylon!) Taulman Bridge is pretty easy, as is their PCTPE... In any case I’d recommend learning to print with it, it is on another level in terms of strength!
It's also good to have it run as smooth as possible before you add a steering linkage, otherwise, that force is just being endured by the steering coupler instead which is not exactly a great idea.
Printing in Nylon will definitely give you better results, the material is self lubricating so would reduce heat build up between the rotating parts, have you tried creating a print in place part with the shaft and the couplers. The one thing that makes nylon difficult is moisture, it needs to be stored in an airtight container like a cereal box along with desiccant in the bottom, I use a food dehydrator to dry the filament before use. Also to improve the mechanical strength of the part you could anneal the parts by heating them up and allow them to cool slowly reducing the residual stresses in the part. Good video by the way
Try to increase the thickness of the coupler ,by removing the steel nuts and use Threading on the part itself. Anyway your I like your design and I believe you can make it work .... Thanks for sharing your experience and trial.
You mentioned not knowing whether you can print nylon on your printer. I also have a Prusa mk3s and I print in Nylon all the time. With normal Nylon, you can sometimes get a bit of warping but with one of the fibre filled ones from Matterhackers there really is no longer a problem with warping, just make sure one change you make to the printer is a hardened nozzle, personally, I use the Olsun Ruby, even though it is really expensive it is worth it as it doesn't wear down as much AND there is a lot better conductivity due to the brass still surrounding the inner Ruby. I have a highly 3d print modified tt02b car which uses a waterproof (504 can) 1406 motor and Mamba X from HobbyKing and I'd love to make an altered version of your car in the future to replace my TT02b using 4 of these motor and ESC setups. They have highly optimised hall sensors already on them and the Mamba X takes the information and updates the motor live as your hall sensor will. I think I'd have to make some custom firmware for the ESCs but I might be able to use these in a similar setup you are working on. I'm starting Mechanical Engineering at the University of Birmingham next week (UK) and I would love to collaborate on this project with you, especially as I could do some aerodynamic and stress analysis simulations as I have Solidworks training and certification so I can actually do that. Can't wait to hear back. Many thanks, Elliott Dyson. :D (I know it's a big comment, sorry about that). 🤣
Just one more thing, those premade metal dogbones, and axles are a lot weaker than they look. I had some really thick hardened steel ones in my TT02B before I printed them out of Nylon X and they ended up twisting and then snapping under the immense torque and weight of the body, the tiny part that screws into the wheel hub was always the worst, too much weight on such a thin threaded piece of metal, won't stand a chance in that beast of a car. The Nylon X is still holding up great. :D
Also, if you “balled”/ rounded the ends, you could probably get the same effect with a closed coupler, which in turn would be stronger than an open one
Or use nylon with its self lubricating properties, then there will be less wear. Also, there is one that is enthused with Kevlar fibres that has great friction/wear resistance.
You migth want to try out Spectrum 275 ASA , I find it quite different to normal ASA (also settings) but in the end nice prints and stronger layer than PETG but a bit more flexible and does not shatter like the part in your video
Im making my own RC car project. I wanted to print as much as I can, but now I can tell you that some parts have to be made from metal. I ended with making CNC for aluminum.
Dude, can you invert your Knuckle pivot bolt and nut assemblies , that way the nut is not in the way of your shaft hub and use a taper M3 bolt head so you get more clearence.
Hi man thanks for the comment! I did think about that... but if I invert them, the knuckle will have to pivot on the outside of the suspension arms. This causes clearance issues when mounting the wheels.... the nut would make contact with the inner wheel and reduce steering angle! I have a better solution now, update coming soon👍🏻
@@santiagoblandon3022 Easier than CoPA, especially the ones filled with Kevlar/glass/carbon fibres but you should only use the fibre filled ones if you have some sort of hardened nozzle
You may want to consider a lighter tire. Those belted trenchers are very heavy and are going to be a lot more prone to breaking things in the drivetrain. Also polymax polycarbonate is fairly straightforward to print and extremely strong and tough.
@@thehardwareguy then the Chinese tires are heavy as well. The belted trenches are notorious for being heavy. There are definitely much lighter options out there.
I ruled out 3D printing axles and I’m now using hardened steel racing axles! Check out my most recent update! I’m confident that the gearing will be fine, especially printed in PolyMax Polycarbonate👍🏻
hi, awesome project, it would be intersesting to test if a stell cable like bike shift cable would be able to be use as an axle for a one mechanical part instead of 3
Hey great video man, i have tought about printing with Nylonx to replace weaker parts and am getting a metal hot end for my printer for that. I think printing nylon is really just about the melting temperature that needs to be higher.
You should try overture nylon or polymaker nylon copa. They are both crazy strong nylon 6 and nylon 6.6 copolymers.overture is cheaper though and my personal favorite.
Ps:Follow printing instructions on the packacking, particularly bed temp, its very important. They are NOT a normal nylon. If you print them like other Nylon itll be a catastrophe lol. Just use a little hairspray if you have small details that you need to stick.
Apologies if this is mentioned in another video but what do you print the parts at regarding infill? Solid or a high % infill? I am new to the game but wanting to make my own car from scratch after making a few kits. I was planning on 3mm base plates in PLA so was rather shocked when you said you were going 10-15mm haha.
more recently I've been using PolyMax Polycarbonate for the parts under most stress (couplers, knuckles etc.), much stronger! I wouldn't print the main chassis in PC because it's very expensive and a pain to print, even on the Prusa!
Your u joints are out of phase and the output shaft is not rotating at the same speed, it's oscillating in contrast to the constant speed of input side. There's a good you tube video that explains how that works (an old guy with a credit card, some tape marks, 3 gears, an axle, 2 uni-joints & motor somewhere...)