0:50 for clarification the V in voron doesnt stand for version but for Voron and the voron 2.4 is in conjunction with the 1.8 the oldest up to date model of a voron. They're diferent machines not versions of the same, and the vorons you can build are Voron 0 (V0), Voron 1.8 (V1.8), Voron 2.4 (V2.4), Voron Switchwire and voron legacy. Besides the legacy (which is a tribute to older printers with rods and stuff) all the vorons are diferent machines with diferent up and downsides to which one.
@@SystemsPlanet There is no best overall, you need to set an use case first before choosing which model to build. V0 has been a very popular option because, let's face it, the majority of prints can fit inside a (120mm)³ print volume. The printer heats fast, prints fast, and is just plainly cute. 😊 However, it is acknowledged as the most challenging Voron to build just because it is so small and packed. Voron 1.8 and 2.4 are very similar in print quality. The 1.8 could be described as a CoreXY Ender 5, with the printing bed moving on the Z axis; the 2.4, on the other hand, have an static printing bed, the gantry being able to move on 3 axes. It can be called the flagship model, being the most expensive model to build. However, it doesn't necessarily means it has a better print quality.
I was already looking for a core xy and then you make this video. You are always on point with a tutorial just when I need it. First for the skr board then the bl touch. The best 3d printing information.
@@010falcon Yes the 20/20 are a little bit small for the 350. I did a 300. Make sure to derack the frame and fine tune the printer with input shaper ;)
I have 2 of these at work, which I built. The 400mm pro was a pain in the ass to get that huge bed to work right. Now they have the rails at the bed corners which solves the problem I have.
@@karoo_bushman6880 You'd think that would be the glaring issue, but in all my research, it just doesn't seem so. I think the V-Core is just so damned rigid, it doesn't make enough of a difference for all the other benefits to matter. Honestly, though, it really just seems to come down to matter of preference. They're both so high-performance, in comparison to mostly anything else, that the pros outweigh the cons. I will say that the RatRig community seems a smidge less elitist. Like, the passion seems to be more into printing, rather than just being able to say, "I have one of the nicest 3D printers in the world". Just my observations over the past few months.
@@karoo_bushman6880 Biggest pro to me is the fact that the biggest V-Core's build volume is 500mm³. You're talking some SERIOUSLY CHONKY PRINTS, bahaha. ✌🏽💜🤘🏽
@@the_wretched True :) My problem is my Prusa MK3S already prints soo damn perfect, just ordered a Bondtech LGX FF to get even better retraction and higher speeds with TPU.. got all my materials dialed in perfectly up to ABS and ASA (enclosure), haven't ventured into Nylon yet though. But I like highly detailed smaller prints, so probably a Resin printer would be better for me (noticeable optical improvement) but I'm reluctant of the sticky mess and smell, so I've been looking at even higher quality FDM printers.. RatRig or Voron seems to be the best FDM can do? If that gives reliable high-quality prints with any material, that's worth more to me than messing with Resin. But people say you can get the same quality as a Voron with a Prusa if you just print slowly..
Another interesting option that in my opinion deserves more attention are the annex engineering 3d printers. What sets them apart from the others is that all the printers of the project are cross gantry, so four non moving motors instead of two, and shorter belt paths compared to the coreXY kinematics. The speed they are capable of is insane!
As I was watching this I couldn't help thinking, "this is alright I guess. If he wants to make it really professional, he should work in a Karate Chop." Imagine my surprise. rofl
I took a £100 delta printer, grabbed klipper/mainsail on a raspberry pi zero and I’ve got ridiculous quality with close to no knowledge of 3D printing. Klipper is insane.
This is the best 3d printer kit build video. I almost bought a Voron kit, but now I lean towards the rat rig - especially because they are EU based so I can avoid import tax
Well done Michael. I'm sure you will love this beast. The frame is a tank and the "moodability" is awesome. Let's see what you think of it. Something (maybe) half the price of a Voron. Waiting for the next one, best regards from Portugal. BTW, if you need anything, just let me know. I'm close the the guys in Ratrig ;)
I love your videos. It has showed me how to start building a new machine. I will probably get one of this in the future. I used a ender 5 pro and have installed the lerdge k board with direct drive and alot of other features. So thank you.
Very cool and fun to see something other than a Voron, I would pick the Orbiter as I have heard great things but dont see it used that often, it also goes with the Open Source nature of the build.
@@nachiketmhatre7411 with a bit of training, you will achieve x2.0, ok watching for the people who are able to pronounce words properly at normal speed. The only downside is people will start to sound like they take too much cocaïne :)
Dear Michael, you have tested many different hotends in the past, but I would recommend trying the ‘NOVA-hotend’ by 3D Passion for this project, because it is seemingly one of the best choice out there for high-speed printing. Your relentless efforts are truly commendable and much help for the community and enthusiasts…
It does look very promising, but keep in mind that all the videos you are seeing are using highly elevated temperatures to achieve the high flow, which leads to pretty disappointing print quality in practice if every bit of your print is not printed at the same speed with the same flow, which is very very rarely the case.
Nice! Didn't even realize there were so many others beside the Voron. Klippy is amazing as well, I hear people having their doubts, but I'd say that's likely because they either never print super fast or already have printers that just behave fine to begin with (like Prusa's). My Ender machine didn't have linear advance as the drivers don't support it, Klippy does this by using the Raspberry itself, which totally sold me on it. Together with anti-ringing, it now prints fast, reliable and I think as beautiful as a well built Prusa (obviously other mods are needed as well to do that :) ).
Everyone talks about how coreXY printers are so much better but when mainstream you tubers gives their favorite printers for print quality it’s usually not one . I’m new to 3D printers.
Probably because most off the shelf printers are not coreXY. If you want to learn more about the pros and cons of coreXY I have a video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_ramiM3KHYE.html
Regarding the electronics panel: I'd just cut the sheet to size by hand, put my components where I want them, stick a pen throught the holes and drill those by hand too. Accurate mounting is crucial for the operation of the machine when it comes to the frame, the lead screws and so on, but the electronics? I would have just yolo'd it lol
Good to see 3D printers adding "pillow blocks" (thrust bearings), but maybe they could start adding them to the correct side of the flexible couplings. :)
We have a design for full pillow blocks, which I'm currently using. They're great, but are much harder to install, as you're effectively turning your flexible coupler into a rigid coupler, so wobble becomes a larger issue. The goal here is to offload the motor shaft, and the default design accomplishes that just fine. The only advantage of full pillow blocks (as we call them) is that they eliminate coupler compression as well (which is already minimal with spider couplers). So because ease of assembly was a priority we opted for the design you see in the video.
This looks sweet. I've been looking at my Ender 5 (with no upgrades) recently and all I can think of is upgrading to something like this. Thanks for sharing!
If I may, as far as extruder choices what about something like a mini Sherpa? Light weight and using a nema 14. I noticed also that Mellow store released an integrated hotend/extruder using a nema 14 at 5:1 using e3d hotend components and creality spec mounting with low weight and a unique quick filament feed system. Might be worth casting an eye over too.
I agree that would be interesting but not very relatable for most viewers. I have to strike the balance between entertainment and doing things viewers can follow if they want to.
@@TeachingTech That's true and if you think about how much this costs related to something like a Prusa its pretty similar and you get more experience with the whole process. (not that everyone wants that) Thanks again for the great content!
I am currently ordering a Ratrig 500.. note that the prices have increased since this video. If you order the exact same kit Teaching Tech did today, the total balance comes to 775 euro, not 629 euro.
You have become my favourite 3D channel young fella. It's so nice to see a very informed video without all the stupidity that is often used by others. Keep up the great work. Unfortunately I can see a divorce coming along after purchasing this new kit hahahahaha!
The show stopper is definately the plastic elasticity dependent pulley mounting. If i invest that much in a new machine, i would expect that ALL bolts/screws that have to cope with the forces of the belts are solely mounted on metal parts. So for me this printer for that price is a no-go.
Advertisement-New all-metal dual-drive 64g extruder, suitable for direct extrusion and remote feeding. Welcome to exchanges and interactions, please forgive me if I interrupt you.
I love that you are doing this. It has allready relieved so much stress from me, just by going along so smoothly. Wouldn't you want to make a machine like this an IDEX? or at least dual extrusion? Your Hbots are all ready sporting direct drives. I really want to see this thing become my goal machine. A core xy IDEX with a heated chamber capable of 80 degrees C. It should print just about any material at 0.05 resolution. For me speed is not the reason to have a core machine. Repeatable perfection is my only goal. Then I might try to speed things up. I can't wait for the next installment. Thanks for being so awesome at what you do. I'm not sure about the Klipper thing though, I am just starting to understand how to work with marlin and build firmware for my machines. Its been 2+ years and I am still a novice with marlin, Now to have another control system to learn syntax for? I will watch to see if you turn grey trying to get it dialed in. Then decide about that. Keep on rockin'.
Damn that's an awesome project to get into. It's really quite expensive though. Wish I had enough disposable income to build a monster printer as this one. My Ender 3 v2 has a faulty board and I'm wondering if I can even afford that, so no big projects for me.
Where are You from? I have stock ender board V1 and I don't need it because I replaced it with MKS. If I'm not close, You can post on FB, I'm pretty sure people have spare board that they could give away
@@darekmistrz4364 Man I really appreciate it and this community is amazing but I'm mostly just venting, I'll be fine and I'd feel bad for taking something like that from someone I don't know. But I'm really grateful
You forgot to mention this is not for beginners. This is for more advanced hobbyists. I love this printer it will probably be my next one. If I don't get a prusa as well.
I recently got the non pro version of this printer and some work must have been done to remedy the issues listed, I had no problems in building the machine, installing the belts was tricky but but not that hard to do. when leveling the build plate choose auto and try to adjust the nut under the platform to bring the values in the table to as near zero as possible, turn the nozzle to raise the build plate if the value is negative. lower the build plate if the value is positive. At least This is what I did. I have tried printing using the sd card and found that the finish of the part was reasonable with regard to the test pieces supplied. Otherwise printing using Simply 3D and some designs not supplied by Tronxy the effects of stringing were apparent. I do agree this is not a printer for the uninitiated.
I'd like to see the orbiter used. Not only an I thinking about getting one but I'm really curious just how clean and fast this thing can print dialed in with such a low weight extruder and hotend combo.
I was looking at making something like a HevORT or possible Voron as my second place option but I'm really liking the look of this so far. I'm thinking of modifying to fully enclosed and heated chamber for some higher temp stuff and core xy gets the motors out of the way pretty well for that.
The slicer would have to do some inverse kinematic type calculations, which I don't see happening anytime soon, unless a 3D print enthusiasts writes an add-on themselves.
Once you've done a premium core XY, could you do a budget core XY? The Sapphire Plus from TwoTrees has some serious potential but has flaws out of the box. It would be brilliant to see what a budget printer with a few upgrades would be like compared to a premium printer.
I could build it with eyes shut but the bit that worries me the most is all the electronics and computer stuff, my mind is mechanical driven by gears 🤭 I have to get me kids to sort out my phone at times, carnt wait for the next video, I want to get into printing but carnt make my mind up but liking the vox I think. 👍
IIRC, the linear rails aren't shipped pre-lubricated. They are protected by light machine oil to prevent oxidation during storage. You are expected to clean them with IPA and/or ultrasonic cleaner and use an appropriately rated lubricant thereafter.
They are actually pretty great straight out of the bag after a quick wipe down, unlike most cheaper rails from china. You can apply some extra oil if needed. You can go as crazy as you want with these. Of course it will never hurt stripping them down and applying some proper grease, but it's an optional step. No reason to complicate it.
That kit costs much more, on that invoice it comes out without VAT and without shipping costs and ratrig's shipping costs are extremely high, at least for me and I live in Spain which is next to Portugal. The machine is fantastic and your review is great as always, but the costs do not match reality.
I wanted CoreXY kit (not full solution) for quite sometime and get this video. Hooray! Liked it and ordered on June 27. They said lead time 6 weeks :( O well I can wait. But more than 6 weeks past and still no delivery. Beware,
Great video man! I'm so glad you didn't choose a voron (those machines have serious design flaws). You can see in the comments that "voron" is like a cult.
@@Rolohaun v2.4 is designed to have a flexible gantry in order for the QGL (quad gandtry level) to work. Just the idea that something in my printer flexes would drive me nuts. The extrusions for the gantry form an U shape (upside down U). In the corners there are plastic parts designed to flex a little. They also hold the two A B motors which might get hot. Imo this is just a "flex" to do some "cool" looking bed leveling. The v1 is the best imo, but it sucks cuz the bed only automatically adjusts in two points and the third is a manual knob. Not a big deal imo. A bigger deal is the leadscrew wobble. The v0 has a cantilever bed which flexes and could have been designed to be all metal and with much less flex. I don't like the leadscrew, and a great mod is the belted z. V0 uses tiny frame extrusions, has small motors. And the top part with the XY carriage is also an U shape. It flexes making things out of square just by pushing with one finger. There is absolutely no place in the xy gantry for square brackets to ensure squareness. A better variant of V0 is Tiny-M. A better printer than v2 would be croxy, k2 or ratrig v3. I could go on. I will probably get a lot of hate from voron people...
@@cil7ea to each there own, it's personal preference. I agree with you on z wobble the belted z mod on the v0 is perfect there is no need to change anything else. Its a tiny printer and 1515 extrusions are more than enough. I personally would prefer to level my x,y gantry like the V2 and keep my bed nice and flat. Voron recommends printing out of ABS the motors would never get hot enough to alter the printed parts. But again to each there own I like all different designs that's the best part about DIY 3D printing you can choose what you like and work with it. I built a Viking 3d printer and it had a belted Z, nice printer but did not like it. Plus I prefer Klipper over Marlin for 3d printer Firmware.
