Thank you for sharing and a great presentation. I had repaired my 2007 Camry's visor, but, it did not have any power stuff. Now, I'm having problems with the visor of my 2001 Highlander; which has a garage door opener and lighted vanity mirror. So, I did not want to do something wrong and break something when trying to discect it. Your video just gave me some view into what might be inside the Highlander visor. So, I'll try to repair. I think will be my first RU-vid video. Thanks again.
Toyota pisses me off. Took mine apart 2016 Highlander 50 cent high tension metal clip that broke unlike your RAV4 but same idea. Toyota wants $225 for a stupid visor. So annoyed at them. A 50 cent part!!!
Ours is 2011 RAV4. I must first thank you for detailing the retainer key. I did get the hanger rod assembly out of the visor with further damage. I wont go into my thoughts on todays mechanical engineering. After trimming away all the broken plastic, I flushed away the cv grease like packing with aerosol parts cleaner. The failed section of the plastic ( all of what is under the clip, approx' .880 length ) is now rebuilt with two part epoxy. So this visor is repaired... for today at least. Good repair? Time will tell.
Glad you took up the challenge. I'm assuming that you coated the area with epoxy, then filed the flat spot? We have two RAVs that we love and I'll follow your lead when the other one's visor drops.
Yep, that's what I did. Actually used pieces of soda straw split lengthwise as a form. Minimal diameter sanding, and filed the flats. I learned that I shouldn't have cut away the approx. 1/4 inch wide section of plastic that wasn't broken. My removing all of this section allowed the right portion of their plastic sleeve to rotate on the shaft. Majority of the shaft is round/smooth. The key is only mounted in the plastic. So I had to return to this video to confirm key orientation and whittle in a locking shoulder similar to whats at the left or lead end of this sleeve. So if I had a do over I would retain some bit of their plastic and work my epoxy to it. This white material seems to be as close to vinyl as plastic ( There are thousands of plastic formulas ). The odd shape stamping in the shaft where the spring steel clip resides must be cavity for their fluid packing. All this "over engineering"/movement of the thin plastic is root cause of cracking and failure. The first small crack let the packing leak out, thus more movement, more cracking. Lets give my repair some time to prove good. By the way, best price for new replacement I found was at TRDshop.com .
It's easy, use a screwdriver to separate the two pieces which hold it on. You can see on this vid: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9w6OEb2YBqw.html
