@@walcottfineart5088 seriously, I've just discovered another hole in my left sock 😲✌ Thanks for all your videos, I've learnt a lot, but my favourite video is the one with Jedi Jason. Take care 😀👍
I just read your bio on your website. I want to ty again for taking the time to put out these tutorials, given how experienced & successful you are. Congrats & ty!
I’m really learning quite a bit from you. I’m new to painting, and you bring across information that’s easily understood.. you have a very kind demeanor as well.. keep the videos coming!
Thanks a lot for your great inputs. And also the smart Idea with the socks, I have so much new ones that doesn’t fit my son anymore because he grows very quickly now they get a new job in my art studio ;) greetings from switzerland 👋
I'm years behind on this, but this is a really useful video. I've always used these colors at random, and only wondered occasionally about the real differences. This is excellent, especially the point about the burnt colors being more transparent. Thanks so much.
Jason, thank you for another great (and informative) video. Glad you had a break, I've been missing this informative videos for a while. I'm a slow learner but thanks to technology, I can always refer back to your videos (which I keep on my favorites list). Stay safe and thanks again.
Thanks for watching! I actually do have a couple of glazing videos you might find helpful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yZhs7CApQhw.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-44p-DDYoCKs.html :) Enjoy!
It's good to see another video from you. Maybe you can do a comparison between Williamsburg Oils and Michael Harding in terms of quality, price and colors.
I have been told Burnt umber is a dark yellow so would be a good shadow colour for a banana. Burnt Sienna is an orange colour. Adding blue to Burnt Sienna gets you a close burnt umber.
Thanks for your videos... I am having trouble making shades of tan and browns, as trying to make any brown light gets me a salmon pink and not light brown, and if i add yellow i lose the color also... Can you make a video about browns and tans?
Sounds like a good idea for a video, sure! In the meantime try adding a tiny amount of green to that salmon pink which will bring it back towards neutral. Thanks for watching! :)
Omg yes, thank you for saying this! The struggle is real. I hate it when my brown turns pinkish. Raw umber is the worst for this, it just wants to be pink!
Im italian and raw umber is called “terra d’ombra naturale” literally natural shadow earth. Where natural is used instead of raw and ombra means shadow, that’s means cool compared to “terra d’ombra bruciata” that’s burn umber.
Could you make a video, possibly, on what to do when the oil in the tubes in seeping out? Ive tried storing standing up, standing down, laying flat...I’m oblivious on what to do. i only use Gamblin. I can have two tubes of the same colour (ordered at diff times) and one will be buttery, and the other will be seeping oil when i open it. It never spills out while closed, unlike W&N. Thank you!
Is that a Rosemary and Co brush I saw you using? I've tried several and I am really enjoying them, but I'm interested in knowing more about brushes. Have you made a brush video before? I like the detailed information you give in your videos and would value your insights.
Yes, it is! I do have a video on brushes that I made awhile back. You can see it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LVB5KYMI6DY.html Thanks for watching!
Yes, that is Vasari's Raw Umber. I like it precisely because it is very neutral in tone. A lot of Raw Umbers are warmer. The Richeson Shiva Raw Umber is very similar to Vasari's and Rublev makes a paint with this same pigment called Cassel Earth. Thanks for watching! :)
Sir , I think that the brunt umber and raw umber is not a single pigment because they contains iron oxide and manganese dioxide. So what we say them single pigment ?
Well, it can depend on the manufacturer. Also the calcining process can change the chemical composition. Single pigments can still contain more than one compound if they are chemically linked. Thanks for watching :)
Hi, I have a question. I have one tube of OH Raw Umber and one tube of OH Burnt Umber.The OH Raw Umber takes a very long time to dry, while the OH Burnt Umber dries fast. Have you come across this dramatic difference between Raw and Burnt Umber?
Typically earth colors do tend to dry faster so I'm not sure why the Old Holland Raw Umber is taking a long time to dry. It's possible they might be mixing another pigment in with it that could cause that. It may also depend on the exact type of Raw Umber they're using. If it's low in Manganese that would make the drying time longer. Thanks for watching!
Do you have any oil paints by Vasari? If you do, could you please make a video like this using their oils and talk about them? Your vids are very helpful btw!
Glazing medium is used for glazing oil colors. You can make your own or buy it pre-made. The traditional one is a mixture of Solvent (like turpentine or Gamsol) and Stand Oil.
It was Vasari Raw Umber. You can get a very similar one for less money in the Richeson Shiva line. The only difference is the Richeson is a little drier. Thanks for watching! :)
Hi Jason. Great video as always. Good info well presented. I was wondering if you have an address (like a P.O. box number, to preserve your privacy), so that I can mail a letter to you. I have some information I would like to impart to you.
I would love to ask if you know about Rose Dure...... I saw the pigment in my local art store. I checked your videos about Reds if you spoke about it but I couldn't find any info about it.
Genuine Rose Dore is a lake pigment extracted from the Madder plant. To my knowledge Winsor and Newton is one of the few companies who still produce this paint. It is an incredibly transparent warm red with a slight yellow bias that can be very useful to portrait painters who utilize glazes in their paintings, for the slight tint of rouge on a subject's cheeks for example. However, Rose Dore may not be the best pigment to use for the initial layers as you would likely lose much of the highly sought after qualities of the pigment when mixing with opaque paints such as titanium white and yellow ochre. Plus it has a very weak tinting strength. Hope that helps :)
@@andywang2075 thank you very much for this..... I bought the pigment because it was very rare and at a great discount. I am a portrait artist myself (even though I paint directly). I will keep it till I start painting indirectly. Thank you very much
