Thanks for an informative video. I've been looking for something to put on my Polaris Ultra foam seaplane, short of fiberglassing it, this may be just the thing! Thanks for sharing.
Wearing a paint long sleeve coverall and gloves is a good idea using spray paint. Your absorbing the paint chemicals and solvents just like breathing it. We all want you healthy too. Making years of very educational videos .
Thanks for awesome video Chris, I was wondering, if I use it on the paper of dollar tree foam builds, will it saturate in and help keep the paper on? I was thinking of trying that, and then sealing with something waterproof (poly acrylic perhaps) for a second FT sea otter build. Time to try it with a quick mock up I guess..
Sir, I’m Konrad from South Africa and starting of with a new hobby, RC. Can you get this Mod Podge also in clear and paint it over the decorative sticker of the plane. Thanks for answering. Regards
For foam shell you can use any PVA Polyvinyl acetate glue. After drying it will create shell to protect foam from paint chemicals. For decal covering it's not good because it will yellowish by the time.
wonder if I could take the paper off my Flitetest dollar tree foam builds, and add 2 layers of this? And hopefully it will be waterproof after painting with oil based spray paint, I want to build a new FT sea otter to fly off water in the spring
Tom Heetderks That paper is also a structural part of the foam. Use minwax water based sealer instead. Its self leveling and works great on the foam board. I use it all the time on all my foamys. Oh, future floor finish does the same thing. You can get it at the dollar store.
yeah, I've been using the oil based minwax spray and it really does work nice! I was thinking maybe it would be ok to remove one side of the paper, but it probably would weaken things a bit. Never heard of using future floor finish..is it a long term waterproofing solution?
Tom Heetderks Guys in the modelling world have been using it for a while now. Minwax is a sealant used in the wood working industry. I used it on all my kitchen cabinets. It is very water proof. Even outside. Future floor finish is an acrylic floor finish that also seals and water proofs. Its self levelling, meaning you brush it on and it leaves no brush marks at all
No you can paint right over the Mod Podge and sand it but make sure you have 2 coats and don't sand away any areas of the Mod Podge or it wont protect the foam from the paint.
Foam is melting because of the aerosol from the paint. If you spray to close its the aerosol that will eat almost all foam. Spray 12 inches away and foam won’t melt. Regardless if it’s bare or Mod podge.
THANK YOU ! Very interesting and useful ! Since valsa is porous znd low in tensile strength, would you recommed using MOD PODG on a balsa llane hdck or even a wood boat hull ?
We used Mod Podge in Art College for a lot of interesting uses, it's fort all intents and purposes the same thing as Elmer's Glue... a bit thinner but either of them can be thinned with water and mixed with Acrylic paints for some interesting posabilities
Forgive me if the following is a silly question, but I wonder if there is a difference between applying this Mod Podge hard-coat product, versus, a thinned coat of wood glue ( like the Titebond II which is also water proof ). Would very much appreciate your feedback. Either way, I will give this product a try and do my own tests but I wanted to know if you had an answer to my question. Thank you very much in advance for your time.
I know this is an older question, but it is my understanding that Titebond I and II can be painted over once it has dried. I have read that once Titebond III has cured, it will not bond to itself, if another layer is applied. I would assume, if true, paint may not bond well to cured Titebond III as well.
Could you apply this product with a foam brush so you can avoid the many "streaks" a regular brush leaves ? Unless of course this is no concern if this product has great leveling properties. Thank you again for your time.
Chris I have seen that in Walmart for years now. I never bought it. I was not ready to try everything I come across in a store. But after watching this I will be using this regularly now on any foamy I want to spray paint. This is the answer to my always wondering where to get a good silver paint on my foam. The best silvers I found eat foam. Not now. I just happen to be rebuilding my USCG Hu-16 Albatross. I need a couple coats on the V bottom. so I can do a repaint. This will help here. Many more uses also. Great expose' you have done here helping everyone. Thanks,
I love that stuff. I use two coats of mod podge, epoxy primer, paint then K2 two part clear coat and it’s as hard as fiber glass... And if/ when you snap a wing or elevator you can just re do your repair at the seam.
This sure sounds like the PVA adhesive that we use a lot of in the UK. It is sold under various names here, one being called "BaslaLoc" which is sometimes painted onto the bare wood of a model before being covered with Oracover or Solartex. That is water based and has little or no smell and is not toxic.
This product is formulated to create a hard-shell over whatever surface you apply it to Anthony, This is also water based and is Non-toxic and dries in around an hour.
awesome! gonna buy a bottle of that and try to cast my new wing with it and put a nice spray paint to it :P UPDATE: Mod Podge just arrived, i just applied the first layer and while its curing i noticed its billdung "blind spots" , its crawling away on some places as it wont bond there ?! I cleaned the foam before applying it. As i noticed it i started ti grind the other parts with sandpaper to rough up the surface , it seems to help
you should know that you can prime foam with any oil base paint or even polyurethane. these oil base or paint thinner base coatings do not dissolve foam. it's the acetone etc. in spray paints that does the damage We stripped the paint off of an Arrow Corsair using packing tape (pulls the paint right off) and coated it with 'minwax wipe on poly' as a hard primer and painted it with oil based semi-gloss or you can use any spray paint on the poly primer
I have been using Modge Podge OUT DOOR type. I may have gotten an old bottle but mine was THICK, and I mean thick! I had to thin it down to get it to work. I used it over my repaired areas and can say it does work. I havent done any durability testing on it yet. When I do, I will make a video on it. I did notice it is very shiny. I plan on testing it many different ways so You are definitely on to something. Some foam planes are easily damaged. My concern is brush marks. No one with a highly detailed plane is going to want to see brush strokes or shiny surfaces. I have thinned Modge Podge down and used it, it still works well.
I was looking for something to harden a Woof Woof doll that I made from the Munsters. The part of the body with no fur needed a hardener, as the fingers would split. Everyone seems to call the product “Modge Podge”. Even I used to do that. Don’t allow the people who say mean things to you about it bother you. I think the company needs to rename it!!! Lol
Amazing ! It exist here in France on Amazon, there are other versions of Mod Podge but I don't see the "pink" one... This just opened the door to my first PSS homebuild. thanks !
Rats... Just returned the paper version i bought yesterday... bought the standard red label on today... can that be used at all?... I only found the hard shell vesion at Hobby Lobby... wally didnt have it
Ok - tricky question - at the 14:27" mark when you hold the canopy after the first coat has dried, I see a lot of tiny imperfections on the surface ( assuming of course I want to create a perfectly glass smooth surface ) so my question to you is this: would you rather fill and sand the canopy first with some light spackling compound to achieve a glass smooth surface and then apply a coat or two of the Mod Podge hard shell or you follow a different sequence ? Thank you for your time again.
Future acrylic floor finish is self leveling and works great as a sealer on model planes, foam projects. I usually use Minwax waterbase sealer also. I didnt hear you say it is fuel safe, meaning you could use a nitro fuel around it. I have clear cast, but never used it for a model, other than water scenes. If it locks the foam down for any type of paint, it may work for protection of foam if you paint it. Nitro fuel if it has gone bad, eats paint reguardless. I coated my Waco electric RC plane and those products do save the finish on a plane with a weak paint job. These products do add some weight to the plane but not much. Out side, I never use a mask, just spray so all product goes downwind. Always start spraying paint off the product, spray long ways across the product and carry past the project. There are videos out there that teach proper paint techniques. Its not the paint that generally eats the paint, its the solvents. if you keep your distance over 4 inches, you should be good. Modge podge does leave brush strokes, where as minwax doesnt, it is self leveling, as is future floor finish. You can even coat canopys and any clear windows with future and it wont hurt the plastics.
I'm not sure if its fuel safe, but fewer and fewer people Fly Gas Or Glow nowadays, withing 5 years even less people will be using internal combustion engines in RC.
RC DemonDriver Dont count on it. There is a resergence comming. I am investing in the Engines. I recommend going on E- Bay and see how long an RC Nitro engine lasts as far as bidding. They are selling like hot cakes. Younger guys are starting to rediscover them.
RC Hobbyist Extreme, Thanks, I was thinking about using Minwax. You can also find spray cans of other water base clear coats that would work I would think. One of my first 3 ch. foam planes I used clear packing tape, and it looked OK.
Hi DD, I am a new subscriber to your channel, and recently came across you Mod Podge video... a couple of questions regarding the product. Looking on Amazon, there appears to be two Mod Podge formulas available Mod Podge Waterbase Sealer, Glue and Finish (16-Ounce), CS15063 Hard Coat and Mod Podge Hard Coat for Furniture, 8-Ounce (CS11245) The former description fits..., but the product number differs for what is shown in your video, and the later matches the product number but differs as being for furniture? Thanks for your time in clarifying this issue...
Hi James, its possible they changed the product code, but I find the easiest way to find this product is simply look for the one with the "dark Purple" label Mod Podge.
So I just tried this stuff... did two coats on depron... And it's exactly elmers glue with a different label.... not impressed. But... If you guys mix it with water, soak some brown packing paper and coat your plane with that and let it dry. It makes it really solid. But mod podge alone I didn't like it at all its basically overpriced elmers glue IMO. Anyone ever tried rhino liner?
I’m 8 months late, but I’m building my first rc scratch build right now and getting ready to cover it. I’ve been leaning towards the brown paper method but have seen some other methods. Can you paint over the paper with, say a spray paint, or will that melt the foam through the paper? What other coating are good yet simple (and preferably cheap, I’m in college)
rc plane companies should impliment methodes simular to this during the manufacturing process ' considering the price they charge ' seriously just common sense over greed Can this product also be thinned to apply with spray or putty gun for no brush marks
Just curious if you send between coats? If so, wet or dry? I did a bare pnp yesterday; wet sanded today, and the mod podge just peeled right of, leaving a huge mess! Thanks! John
she's fully repaired and I have made new adjustments to her CG and have built an Orion chuck glider to test my theories on, so I would look for more flight attempts this spring or summer.
Someone told me this takes a month to harden properly. Is this true as I really need max 1 week drying time for my projects. I don't want to send out to customers and find that it still hasn't dried out.
Well Dave, There are Many painting techniques, One guy says this is the right way, one guy says that's right or that's wrong, to me it's like your Pool stroke or Golf swing . . . .whatever gets the job done and the finial result.
Nothing New True, But new to be using it to laminate Styrofoam RC Planes Mr Crawford, I was the first person to make a video using this product for RC.
i don't know what's going on with these Mod Podge products but because there are so many and you never actually gave a product number I had to watch both of your Mod Podge videos multiple times at 1080p while going .25 speed through all the frames where you showed and it still took me forever to decipher the Mod Podge product number on the bottle label (CS11245). ironically the only Mod Podge CS11245 i can find is "Mod Podge Hard Coat for Furniture" which has a different label that no where says " Waterbase Sealer, Glue and Finish", the Mod Podge i can find with the exact same wording on the label as yours has a different product number (CS15063) in the upper corner so i am totally lost as to which Mod Podge product to get!!!
ok but is it purple label CS11245? www.amazon.com/Mod-Podge-Furniture-8-Ounce-CS11245/dp/B00168579E/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1530120063&sr=1-3&refinements=p_89%3AMod+Podge&dpID=41NTH1yOnkL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch or purple label CS15063? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CI1U5NQ/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bs5TB_cr_x__w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=6MX7HBJH35FQCHDMZDQV&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a8a4721b-7b61-53ef-9745-f37e51bea825&pf_rd_i=12890741
You can vac-form over bare styrofoam if you make one pull over the other. Yes, it picks up a slight texture and you have to cut whatever of the first pull that will interfere with the second. But-- the second pull smooths out the surface. Mod Podge is pretty cool stuff. I had not really paid attention to the other varieties. Which is unlike me but I usually shop like a driven man. And, now I know!
Yeah, the first form melts some of the foam. That's why you do it one on top of the other-- the first one acts as a barrier. The second one comes out just fine. Works great.
You are soo inspiring. I come from to old school way of building. Been out of it for a long time but now you have inspired me to build a citation x using your techniques. Keep up the great work. You are the man.
Hello I have a question that I hope you might be able to answer I just purchased a parrot Disco it has black foam and I was curious if if this would work on the plane as a protective coat? Thank you for your time
@@F3HDemonDriver1 that brings up another question after using it can I clear coat with spray paint to make it waterproof? And thank you so much for responding back to me
this is great I have a stinger 64 and the nose section is so thin one bad hit to the nose and it brakes the nose off. I'm going to try this product and see how it works.
Mike I would recommend this on all nose cones. It does leave a shine, however, you can get a waterbased dull coat finish to apply over the modge podge that should knock down the shine. Look for Model Masters Dull coat in the paint section of your local hobby shop. Make sure you test a small area first.
@@F3HDemonDriver1 Thanks. OK, will get some this weekend. Can this be applied to an already painted EPS model that I want to repaint and also provide some rigidity or would you recommend sanding and then applying?
@@F3HDemonDriver1 I do have a question, I see two versions of the purple bottle. One marked good for furniture 8 oz bottle and the other a 16oz that looks more identical to your bottle. Which one? Just want to get the right one. Thanks.
Definitely appreciate this video and passing on this great crafting knowledge. I will most definitely give this product a try. It looks like an excellent product indeed for our model aircraft hobby.
I saw this video and thought I'd give it a try. Modge Podge on wings and polycrylic fuselage. I put three coats of Modge Podge on and sanded with 340 before, between and after. I then sprayed a white primer and started applying paint details with delicate green tape. The Modge Podge wings were tough to sand out because the streaky uneven finish it leaves but I got there. The problem I had was in pulling the tape for paint trim, the Modge Podge would separate from the EPO (not break). The loose ares couldn't stay so I tried sanding which basically starts a hole in the loose Modge Podge and then big ares separate completely leaving a complete mess. The fuselage came out fine. I ended up getting new wings rather than work to fix that weak foundation.
@@billcullen616 Based on your feedback, I got a better idea for the wings then. Apply first a coat or two of polycrilic, sand the last coat with 320 or 400 sandpaper, then apply a coat or two of ModPodge. I believe this will solve the "peeling" problem. I love experimenting with "what if" scenarios. Thank you for your feedback.
Hi Jermaine, 737-300 sounds Good, Make sure you have atleast 2 coats of Mod-pogde down on your surface then find some testors or Tamiya Primer paint then add a coat of primer then add your Glossy Paint.
Yes, But just remember the more coats you add to your Parr-Disco the heavier it will get, but yes with enough Mod Podge is will kelp it become more damage resistant.
River Minwax waterbased sealer is self leveling and does the same job as does future floor sealer, you can get at the dollar store and you can use it on canopys. As an old school person, I can say it works great on model car windshields too.
Great video thanks! Will try that instead of water based polyurethane. Will this be thinned and used to apply on fiberglass cloth? Looking forward to more of your new build or rebuild!
You can thin it with water, you can also use it to laminate fiberglass but in that case I would use it straight out of the bottle without thinning it out. Thankyou Edwen!
edwen303 You can use future floor finish also from the dollar store. It is self leveling and car modellers use it on their windshields to make the plastics clearer looking, so it can be used right over canopys.
edwen303 Its an acrylic, it shouldn't bother anything. As with anything you use,paints,glues,epoxys,always try a small amount in an area that is not noticeable before doing the whole project. Pretty much any product you use states that right on the package. I use acrylic paints and use future in a spray gun and have never had an issue with yellowing.
I have been thinking about putting on polyacrylic coating on some painted planes. Going to home depot soon and will be building a freewing B17 so I def want to protect it. This will be good to use in conjunction to makes planes last years.
It's a very easy product to use as you saw in this video, another way to also give your RC planes long Life is to keep them away from Kids under 7, Dogs, and angry wives & girlfriends LOL.
RCWeaven FPV Use minwax waterbased sealer. It is self leveling and leaves no brush strokes. I use sponge brushes. You can use it on canopys too. I use it on ALL my RC planes. It makes the foam stronger, less likely to get scratched, chipped and dent proof. I have been using it for years. clean up is soap and water.
RC DemonDriver How is the flow as far as finish? can you airbrush it? Im not arguing the use. I plan on testing the two and doing a video. I really want to put them to the test as far as durability. I dont land very gracefully sometimes, my planes get scoffed up. Most paints on RC foam planes chip, scratch and wear horribly. If we can seal the finish right from the box, things will stay nicer longer. I think anything we can use that saves the finish will help. I think making a video and testing sealers would be a great idea. As I have time and extra planes, I think I will give it a shot. Everyone benifits from our videos. See mine at RC Hobbyist Extreme on You- Tube. I cover several cost saving things as well as starting a Nitro Plane restore.
xKmotx it only takes a tiny amount of water to thin it down, I have sprayed it with a 2mm nozzle gravity feed gun, but theres a trick to stop it from blotching and orange peeling, pre clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol then take a soft microfibre cloth, dampen it with an even thinner mix of mod podge (pva) and scrub the surface with it, leaving very little behind but basically pre wetting the surface like a prime. let it dry 15 minutes then spray, you will get a good wet glassy coat with excellent adhesion.
I think it is PVA glue you are describing thick white and water-soluble but when it goes off it leaves a thin skin good as a wood glue brick glue, in fact, any porous surface glue we use it in the building industry in the UK very cheap a gallon will cost you about £5.00
This product is sold as a "Hard-shell" coating as its called right on the label and it does just that Bob, its not really the same as white glue although there are some similarities.
