Thanks for the info. Just bought the SBR 2 and was wondering what those parts were for. This is my first vehicle of this type (trophy truck style vehicle with straight rear axle). This was the video I was looking for!
So happy to hear the video helped you out. 👍👊 If you’re looking for a good way to stop the rear-cage flex, check out this video?: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Sj3N8W2NgXk.html Best mod I ever did was drywall tape & ‘shoe-gue’ing the underside of the body! Most people who don’t, wind up with missing body chunks, they’ve had to cut off after a collision or role. My body still looks new from 6ft away! 👍👌😎 Enjoy it dude! 🤘
I agree with you Jayson. The towing in is great for a speed run type of car but as you say, as soon as one of the wheels leaves the surface, which is always going to happen on a basher type of car then physics says it will steer the rear , so to speak. I think this will be a good improvement and i look forward to the video, but yeah you still gona flip it bro 😂😂😂
🤣🤣🤣Totally still gonna flip it mate! 👊👍 Thanks for the awesome feedback & great support as always my good friend. I can’t wait to get it out soon, but I’ve got a couple more parts to swap out (front cage & front gearbox). Probably do a video for that work first? Cheers mate! 🍻
Hey Zelda! 👊 Thank you so much for watching & the awesome comment! I’m so glad you enjoy watching my videos. I really enjoy your content as well my good friend. 👊😎
@5:20. If you just put the wheel on you can get that grub screw without damaging your hex with the vice grips As far as the toe goes, the 3 degree helps the RC to track straight and/or always making the RC return to center easier.
Your right about the 3°, but only on a paved/road surface, in a RWD vehicle, with continuous contact from all tires. On a 4WD vehicle designed for off road & multi-terrain high-speeds, where the wheels are rarely making full contact at the same time, any toe-in for those conditions is pointless for keeping the vehicle centred & is only causing the one side with more traction to try and twist the vehicle under itself.
Man I felt that in the camera l o l I have a Redcat blackout it has Extreme Towing in the rear and I always thought it was weird came that way from the factory and I brought it up on one of the group's one night how I was going to straighten the wheels out a little bit and I had a whole bunch of people tell me not to do that with those Wheels being turned inward it helps with stability like straight track but I feel the same as you that has to create all kinds of drag
Man If it’s a predictable instability I’ll be happy. I agree that with both wheels down, a tow-in is more stable. I think everyone should experiment ether way? 🍻👊👍 I really appreciate the comment. If I regret it?, that’s just another video. 😂 Thanks so much for watching & the awesome feedback.
Right!? I always say, ya gotta find out before ya know! 👍👊 Really appreciate reading your comments Addam. Thank you so much for the great support & watch time brother. 🍻😎
Thanks bud! It can’t feed ya. Or charm a lady like a good cook or guitar player? I try my best! 😜👊🍻Cheers Jack brother! Always a pleasure & honour to have you in the channel mate!
I know the tow in gives stability on hard acceleration. So I know it’ll be less stable, but I’m thinking it’ll be a predictable instability that’ll allow more time for correction by sliding instead of it trying to drive under itself? Basically I want it to act more like a Traxxas UDR! 👍 Thanks for the comment Will! 🍻👊
@@rcwreck-creation I have some more little things i need to finish but i went ahead and post a video of the truck in action..Truck weighs a whopping 30lbs but the extra weight brings so much more realism during filming.. So yah stop on over and tell me what you think!
Yeah, I don’t know? 😂 So I can make sure you’re paying attention? 🤣🤣🤣👊 Honestly from the angle I had to keep it for the camera & the height I was working at? The wheel didn’t really make it that much harder.
@@UncleJamesJuniorJames I’m almost embarrassed to say, but I have yet to run the beast since that video. However a local friend of mine who has an SBR2.0 also & did the 0° swap. He told me “it’s hard to say that it doesn’t tip as easy, but it definitely takes longer to go over!” So ether he’s more use to where that tip point is or the mod actually gives him more time to react and correct it? He also said “it’s more predictable powering out of a loaded slide for sure!”. Really can’t wait to try it for myself.
@@rcwreck-creation thanks for the reply. Just got one second hand but like new. Going to do a series on budget upgrades. But wanted to do all the work on the car in the one go. Will add that to the list.
@@UncleJamesJuniorJames Hell yeah! My absolute pleasure to answer any questions you have my friend. If you’re looking for more SBR channels make sure you check out ’Earl Morehead’ if you haven’t already? He does a really awesome budget friendly fix for the rear cage flex. I did it as well & it works so good! 👌 Anyways have fun with it my friend. 🤘
We just started the hunt again (didn’t want to move/close in the winter). Almost had a place in Melrose, about 15min from the bridge to PEI. Unfortunately the seller believes they’re still in a sellers market? So not budging much on the list price! 🤷♂️ Oh well, guess they want to hold on to it for another 100+days? 🤣🤣🤣 We even came up $13000 on our original offer & still no counter-offer? Anyways, we’ll find our place! 👍👊🍻 Thanks for asking bro.😎
@@WoodsUnknown I can build, but I don’t have time to do that. Once we have our spot there I gotta focus on getting the businesses built. So there needs to be a working livable home for the Wife & Daughter. We have been looking at some places on Kijiji. Most places we have seen that aren’t listed on a real-estate sight are pretty sketch though?
Sure will Peter. Thanks for watching & the feedback sir. Seriously considering locking up the rear diff, Might do a video on before & after that too? 👊
With my limited understanding of car-dynamics, the 3° is to combat the "torsion steer" the solid rear axle puts in the system. When you push on the gas, the drive shaft puts torque on the dif and tries to rotate the dif around the axle of the shaft. But as the car is on the ground, it presses one tire on the ground and lifts the other ever so slightly. Now they have different diameters and with the same RPM this will result in one side traveling more distance than the other side, resulting in a rear axle that will not run in a straight line (under load). If you don't want that, you counter it with an offset on one side, coutering this effect.
You are almost correct, but it’s not a locked diff so they are not at the same RPM when one tire lifts. The diff is able to transfer the power to the path of least resistance (as it should), and because the wheel with more resistance & grip on the ground, with that 3* of tow-in, is literally trying to drive the rear end under the rest of the vehicle. Pretty sure my practical test is going to show me the vehicle is less stable on hard acceleration, but more predictable and likely to slide out from a hard turn than flip. Thanks so much for the input though. I wouldn’t say you have “limited understanding” ether. 👍👊😎
@@rcwreck-creation I will pick up my SBR today and hope I can peer-review your findings ^^ I don't think the tire that experience uplift will actually lift from the ground (if in a strait line) due to the shift in weight to the back. But I will test it and see, if I can record with a high speed cam what's going on. Yes, limited in the perspective of someone who actually knows what he is talking about (Dunning-Kruger effect). I'm a mechanical engineer/designer in manufacturing automation, so I look at the system and just think that may be it.
@@derstreit there are many different things that can cause wheels to lift in a practical test. So I’d like to encourage you to conduct your own experiments, record & share them on your channel? Good luck.
Sounds like it needs to be drilled out? If you’re really not sure what to do, get someone who does to do it, or explain it better to you at least? It’s just a grub-screw holding the hex-pin in place. Once you drill the majority of it out, you should be able to push the pin out. Then you can remove the hex and ether replace it or try tapping the remainder of the grub screw out of the threads & just replace the grub screw.
All of your Theory and Logic go out the door as soon as the tires loose traction. On a full-size truck on pavement everything you said is absolutely Valid but when is this RC going to get 100% traction? Toe-in does help with stability control while the tires are spinning and the truck is sliding around.
Full size truck is different. The axles on a full size truck is a lot more complicated, and most have diffs that stop the power from going to one side when a tire lifts. Thanks for your input, and if you disagree with anything I said about this vehicle (not a real full size one)? Please make a video explaining properly then? The vehicle handles way better (way less tendency to traction-roll now). The rear end is no longer trying to drive under itself on a slide, and that was the point of installing the 0⁰ hubs. So you can argue with what I said all you want? However if you're comparing the axle of an RC to a full size axle, then what you are saying is coming from way to much knowledge. Plus you can't argue with results, and the results have proven my thoughts & logic correctly. Thanks for the comment though. ,👍
@@rcwreck-creation I'm not saying it didn't make a difference (why would they make the parts otherwise), I'm just saying you're overthinking it. When you're driving hard offroad the tires aren't on the ground half the time. If you're driving in parking lots it's different.
@@RTmadnesstoo .... Plus you are the one trying to compare to a full size axle. So I'm not the one "over thinking" anything. You can't argue with results, and if I got the results I was thinking I was going to get. Then I wasn't overthinking anything.
