I agree RAW has more depth but as a non-professional jpeg editing is fine...just produce a copy (always work from a copy - totally non destructive) or just shoot RAW and Jpeg. A lot depends on your work flow need and yours need to be to a high standard (which yours are👌) but for my general use jpegs are great to work with unless the dynamic range may create tonal banding but 95%+ of the time they're fine...even adjustments of white balance and colors etc. Correct exposure (& WB) is obviously a good thing as well. Generally I agree with everything you said😊...but...
Very understanding... I still have 35mm negative films back in my high school years but kept in cool dry conditions (still pretty good shape after 20 or more years continuous lifetime). I used scanning negative film through smartphone but kinda okay, I knew I wish to have with darkroom equipment eventually adding up the spaces to do it. Oh yeah, you mentioned the negative slide attach DSLR cameras some previously episodes ago. I was thinking of that and going to try it someday. Have a nice safe happy holiday... 🎅🏼🤘🏼🎄
Yea scanning film with a DSLR is a process. I've been working on putting together my own setup to do this and will likely make a video about it when it's all set to go (probably a few months!).
Thorough and understandable explanation. Had an issue with my new camera where I accidentally set it to JPG vs RAW. Luckily discovered the oversight the night before a client gig while shooting at my home studio. Thankfully the camera had high enough resolution for the JPGs to still be editable in Capture One.
first off, yes i understand why raw is better, i have a canon M50 and love it, i uses it mostly for wildlife. However, i choose to shoot jpeg for two main reasons, 1, buffer size and 2, lack of raw editing software / big enough computer to handle loads of raw files (macro stacking also). The files i have been getting are great and i'm loving the results. my question or suggestion for a tips video would be discussing the "picture style" (in canon) settings and what other settings you can play with to get the best out of jpegs for those that prefer to shoot jpeg. to qualify the buffer, i can shoot much more in jpeg than i can in raw before the buffer fills up, which is important in wildlife esp with animal action like foxes playing and mating etc. regaurds to the editing, so far i have only needed to brighten up the odd shot here and there or resize for media, as i know the restraints of jpeg i tend to aim for out of camera shots in the field which i love doing. its only a hobby for me not paid work or yes i would be grabbing aff camera and shoot raw, but then i would also need to upgrade computers etc.happy xmas 2020 (i'm 51 today :))
Totally get it and if that works for you, then great! For me personally, I've just had too many instances where I make THE picture and really want to spend more time working on the raw file. So I can't imagine ever shooting JPEG only for my particular work.
Great respect to you as a photographer but that was the longest most complicated answer for a simple question. A beginner would be constantly rewinding.
I alway shoot RAW and prefer to edit in Photoshop. Once I finish with all the non-destructive edits, I save the file as a Photoshop file (*.PSD). This preserves all the layers and allows me to go back at a later date and make minor changes if I am not satisfied with the final result.
Even better - open the RAW in photoshop as a smart object (use the dropdown next to OPEN in CameraRAW and select "open as object."). Then you can go back and re-process the RAW file in addition to having all your other adjustment layers, etc.
I'm glad you answered the question about TIFFs. I occasionally use GIMP which is like a free version of PhotoShop but it doesn't read RAW files. So, I got in a discussion with someone about using TIFF for editing in GIMP. He though JPEG would be better because he said TIFF is an overkill. I know TIFF files are big but when using a photo editor which doesn't read RAW files wouldn't it be better to use TIFF files which have more information than using JPEGs?
Ok great! Workflow...Save raw file as TIF if you're using GIMP to edit. Keep the raw and TIF files after exporting TIF from GIMP as a jpeg. If edit again in GIMP, edit the TIF and export as jpeg, but keep and reuse TIF file to edit again later.
Question about a possible example. If you want to tweak the burn brush in your jpeg how about just opening the corresponding raw file, go to history, delete just the burn brush and redo just that step. After that is done choose export and overwrite to the original jpg. Is that okay?
Yea, that's pretty much what I'm suggesting. As long as you have the original raw to re-do by whatever method you want, then you're golden. Whether you keep the old JPEG or not is up to you.
Hello David. I currently use Capture One 23 as my photo editing software. When I take photos using both RAW and JPEG, the RAW photos are darker than the JPEGs, and then I have to try to lighten them. What causes the dark images, and are there settings in my Canon R6 that I can change to avoid this problem all together? Thanks!
I wouldn't expect them too. But in 10 years, you might want to go back and re-tone that image for a giant wall print for that client. You might be fine, but I'd rather have the original to go back to.
Fact! I only shoot in jpg. I set my settings the way I want then for a reason. Why would I want to have to re-edit or take extra steps to add those settings on import. Cameras save so much more info these days in jpg.
@@doveparadise937 Cameras do NOT save more details in JPEG. 3rd party software just isn't quite as good as cameras natively converting raw into JPEG. Capture One does an excellent job, but even it doesn't do quite as well as the camera itself. But you still do NOT have the same control over color and dynamic range as with processing raw yourself. Yes in a camera body you can manually change your Kelvin, but what you CANNOT do is process custom color profiles with an xRite ColorChecker or similar device. I shot JPEG only for YEARS and got great results. RAW in Lightroom was a nightmare. RAW in Capture One was a dream come true.
@@doveparadise937 If that works for you, then great! I know some very high volume photographers (like school photos, etc) who only shoot JPEG and it's fine. I personally prefer having the raw files.
Yup. You can also export a TIFF from the RAW converter and then polish that TIFF further in an editor with various plug-ins. Once you've saved a lossless printable TIFF you can re-save it as a separate, much smaller JPEG for distribution online.
What William said. If you don't need to do any more editing outside of your RAW convertor (which I prefer when possible), then you can also just print from there. I'm able to soft proof and have made very good prints right out of Capture One.
Fun tip: iPhone can read raw files. I've opened my .CR3 EOS R files in my Photos app, not Lightroom but the native iPhone Photos app, and it views it just fine. 🤣
If the heif (apple heic) format would become standard & replace jpeg, would we have more flexibility ( getting rid of limitations of jpeg). Thoughts? What do you think the odds of heif becoming more prevalent?
HEIF definitely has some advantages over JPEGs, but it's still not a raw file. It's just the next generation of output format. Going to be hard to replace the ubiquity of JPEG though.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto It's been under the radar. I fully prefer C1-21 and I wouldn't be surprised to see greater photo-centric changes, e.g. ProStandard ICC profile in the future.
If that works for you (and your clients), then great! But as Rob says below, I'd love to at leave have the RAW files for the client's "keepers." Ten years from now, they might want a giant wall print and you'll be able to do much more with the files then. I'm always amazing at the raw conversions I did 10 years ago that I thought looked good. :)
What a terrible explanation to the first question. In short: when you edit raw files in Photoshop or Lightroom, for example, all your changes will be saved on a sidecar file. You can open the raw again anytime, and you can undo or do new changes, then export as jpeg
