Cleaning out and re-greasing shielded ball bearings without popping the shields off. Using an air compressor and a vacuum cleaner to clean out and force grease back inside. woodgears.ca/mo...
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 I’m not sure where you live, but here in the US there are tons of bearing companies that have pretty much any size you could imagine. I’m in northeast Ohio and there is Akron bearing just to name one.
That vacuum method was pretty clever. Granted, it wasn’t the most efficient way to pack a bearing, brute forcing the grease in proved to be much faster. But still it was clever.
@@the_hate_inside1085 Clever indeed. With enough saw dust and other things being vacuumed, if it's only a little residue maybe it works itself out eventually.
I used the vacuum cleaner technique on my bicycle wheels, to get grease right through the axle to both sets of bearings (having first flushed them with degreaser, and dried them off). It worked very well. I've also used this technique to get woodglue deep into cracks. Vacuum cleaner on one side of the crack, tape in strategic places to concentrate the vacuum on the other side of the wood, and glue applied at that point until it appears at the other side of the wood.
The thing I love about Shopsmith is walking straight from the (whatever machine configuration the tool is in) to the accessory wall to get the other attachment and retool.
My dad was the kind of man that would buy a rebuild kit for a brake cylinder. I thought he was foolish; spending so much time to save so few dollars, until I got older. Now I have so much respect for the way he lived. This video reminds me of him. I like it.
Who doesn't rebuild a cylinder? Shoot, in Arizona we rebuild everything a cylinder is like bottom of the barrel guy... get out ur lil eco-zone and explore life more... cylinders is just one part on one machine of many thousands that are out there... I've resleeved motor piston cylinders for 350 motors, rebuilt it and I'm still a newbie... and that's just it, I'm not on a MASTER level, let alone GOD TIER... and those people exist
I wish we could get back to fixing solid stuff rather than throwing broken ones and buying new ones over and over again. People fall into this "single-use" trap easily. But, it was only meant to serve global giants of manufacturing which paid the politicians to push the first world country into this shit.
2023 and I am returning to comment. This method works amazingly well. Flush the bearing with 3 in 1 or WD and blow dry. Place bearing in a jig above a shop vac and boy howdy does that grease get in that bearing. Holy lubrication. The fan on a 10 year old quartz heater began squeaking loudly and pissing off the wife and the chinchillas. This method returned the heater to the previous, silent operation. To those who say "Buy new bearings..." Well, I repaired the unit in less time than it would take to actually locate, order and receive the bearings. It's only temporary if it doesn't work.
You can grease the bearings easily without the jig by putting some grease in your hand and repetitively rub the side of the bearing through it while rotating it. This will hydraulic the grease through the bearing.
That's the old tried and true method used for automotive wheel bearings back in the days of drum brakes. It works, did it many times before I got a tool for greasing wheel bearings using a grease gun.
@@bobd. I just got to thinking, an automotive bearing grease jig would probably be pretty easy to make out of wood. I never thought about it back in the day. I drive a GMC Safari van that's rear wheel drive and I just hand packed brand new bearings for it and put new rotors on while I was at it. Runs smooth now 👍
I usually pop the shields using two dental picks (you grab the springs on opposite sides and lever out) but this is much more interesting. Especially for rarer bearings that can't be replaced/ (shield can't be)removed (of which i've come across a few times).
Only thing I'd do different probably would be to soak the bearings in the solvent longer to allow it to break down the grease and dirt. Not sure how well it worked just jigging them around in it for a few seconds. When we re-greased automotive wheel bearings in automotive class in high school we'd lay them in kerosene for a couple hours and then come back to them and clean them.
For the smaller bearings i find two Stanley blades work quite well. I can easily take apart a PC fan bearing (3x8x4 - 693) and regrease, I prefer mobil polyrex EM, it makes less noise. The newer bearings have press in shields and can't be removed without damaging them...
@@teofilstevenson I've been popping the shields of bearings for over 50 years, but only as a short term measure, the grease as come out because of wear.
The problem with greasing up squealing bearings is that the damage is already done. Once they squeal, you've had unlubricated metal on metal contact and wear has taken place. But I suppose for something like a band saw, you'll probably be ok. Not good for things that run for extended periods of time, or even continuously like wheel bearings, air handler motors and bearings, etc.
Look, just Dremel the bearing in half. After you've gotten stitches on your thumb, cleaned up the blood and tissue from the workbench, try to see if the part number is still legible so you can order a new one.
Since these bearings aren't aligning a shaft, after cleaning the blood you can just measure the ID, OD, width and get one of that size from the auto parts shop.
The important thing in this video is not the few dollars he saved but his creativity coming up with a way to lubricate the bearing. What if this bearing is no longer manufactured? There is an old saying: There is more than one way to skin a cat. It's always good to learn more things. I had never thought of this way to relubricate a bearing.
@@saylormalan when a bearing starts making noise there is already metal on metal contact and it's no good anymore. Besides, no bearings are out of production, just read the specs or measure them and order off of a catalog or auto parts store. No point in getting them from the manufacturer.
@@mick1gallagher Greetings from Brazil. I'm an amateur mechanic. I was born liking mechanics. Each case is different. In this specific case I think it's worth relubricating to last a few more years. What cannot happen is for a bearing to run without grease. Putting grease on this little beauty, it can still last a reasonable amount of time.
My old trusty Shopsmith bandsaw has bronze bearings. I remove them , wipe them, and hit them with non-lithium grease (brake grease) once every couple of years, and it's golden. I'll wear out before those bronze bearings will.
I clean (usually only when rusty) with WD40 or diesel, mixes with grease better. I spin the bearing using the rubber backing adapter for roloc pads. You can usually blow a rubber sided seal out of a bearing, and pack with your thumbs. I have never had grease cross contamination ruin a bearing, if there was grease In there we would not be doing this. A blunt tip assortment of syringes is a must, 14 - 25 gauge, (20 for $10) you can simply just add some grease through the gap in the shield there. If the rubber of an applicable bearing is supple, you can just go under the lip. I warm the syringes a bit, and squeeze them with pliers, putting the syringe barrel through a metal washer where your index and birdie finger go to grab on to. I mostly drill a small hole in the seal wall, (cuz the seal is crunchy) and fill. Seal hole with a dab of 1min permetex right stuff. If you roll the bearing while putting the needle in, you can usually get deeper. I over pack the bearing and spin it very fast and fling the excess grease back out and clean off. I use Full Synthetic Valvoline VV985. It mixes great. Bad advice for space shuttles and aeroplanes, but wonderful for cars and equipment. I have had great luck greasing timing belt pulleys and front wheel bearings on cars/trucks, (sealed assemblys, not old school) If they are apart for something else like a ball joint or water pump, drill a hole and squirt them up, they will even quiet back up if noisy and arrest advancement of whatever axial play, if any, was there. I would run a re-greased Japanese timing belt pulley over a luck of the draw Chinese sourced part any day. A gambit of new timing belt pulleys could exceed the value of the car. (I have been known to repack new pulleys from 3rd party's to ensure good grease) Most people will not a replace belt pulley, if I can even get them to change the belt. I have greased hundreds of noisy 6203 style bearings and they always end up out lasting the thing I bolted them back on to. If a bearing does not spin a lot, I use Seal Glyde as a lubricant instead.
You sir, are a genus! I'll have to try that! Thanks for the great tip!!! When my hard to reach bearings get dry, I oil them with 30W nondetergent motor oil.
30W oil? What is that? SAE J300 is THE standard that defines automobile engine lubricants viscosities and it does not recognize 30W oil. My guess: you mean SAE 30 oil. Second point: where you are going to find non detergent oil? For engine oil to be totally avoid any detergents it has to be of type API SA - some 70 years old standard. Hint: even monograde oil, i.e. for lawn movers or heavy duty diesel are detergent oils.
Yes, you are correct, I meant SAE 30! And for your second question, I buy SAE 30 non-detergent at my local auto parts store. I use it in all my oil cans and use it to lubricate all of my equipment and tractor bearings as well as my jaws when they get squeaky ;-}
I read stories of a farmer, in a Shopsmith group (who had a small herd of Shopsmiths in his barn in multiple configurations-- like double-headed drill press, etc.), and he'd regrease actual sealed bearings in his large hay mowers. He drilled a small hole in the seal, pushed grease in, cleaned the seal and put a dab of silicone sealer on the hole.
That looks like a better way than how i do it but if you’re ever lazy, i mix the grease with a solvent and spray it into the bearing. Once the solvent dries the grease is left.
We use an old warming pot warm up the grease put bearing in and the grease will flow into the bearing. Only worthwhile on big bearings or bearings that get wet.
Quick tip on that Mobil 1 synthetic grease (almost certain that's what you used because of the color and consistency). Mix it 1:2 with WD-40 marine grease (1 part Mobil 1 synthetic to 2 parts WD-40 marine), 1:1 if you've already bought a ton of it. Both advise NOT to mix them but in my trials on stationary machines, bikes and handheld power tools they both work just fine together. The Mobil 1, on its own, will separate and run all over the place given time but the WD-40 marine has no such problem, in fact, it thickens up the Mobil more than enough to never run. In a confined, sealed, bearing maybe there's no issue but in anything with exposure to the air the Mobil WILL separate and run.
Sometimes the easiest, temporary fix is to: drill a small hole in the shield; Hit hole slightly with a center punch to make a mild countersink; Force grease in with a Lincoln needle grease applicator; and seal hole with a dab of adhesive.
I was told to disassemble the bearing and pack with grease. Grease can get so old and hard it can damage the bearing. Upon removal of the lock ring & seal, hardened grease can be removed & bearing inspected for gulls, nicks etc. Then repacked with proper lubricant required for F-102 flight controles that I was working on. You really don't want hardened grease messing up you'r day.
That way of cleaning and re-greasing was impressive! I usually remove one of the shields, clean the bearing, lubricate it and re-install the shield - this way is much simpler and leaves no marks on the shields. I should have thought of that years ago :-)
Clever way to regrease. But to be picky, those are not sealed bearings, they are shielded bearings. Sealed ones can be regreased too but the seal needs to be popped off first.
Second method is the one I've always used. Wood is cheap and easy. Edit: I do like the vacuum tho... A little more prep but less waste and mess. I guess if you got a few to do, rigging up the vac is the way to go, especially if they're all different.
We place the bearing in a large syringe. We fill the syringe with alcohol or kerosene. We expel the air. We extend the piston, create a vacuum. Air bubbles in the bearing, expanding, displace the old grease, and while shrinking, they replace it with kerosene. Then the kerosene is drained, the syringe is filled with grease and the piston movements are repeated, filling the bearing with fresh grease.
if you use a vaccuum to suck grease into it you will get channeling, it would be easier to use the same woodenblock and use a wooden piston to press the grease through the bearing
This is only cost effective if you account your time at $0. However, an easier way to get the grease inside the bearing (I've done it) is melt it in carefully with a hot air gun. No need for jigs.
I like your method of greasing the bearings. The tough part is to know when to re grease and when to just get new ones. That is the tough part. And for the engineers, can you say DUMB ASSESSESS.
At first i thought what is the point just replace them, looking and thinking though one seems to be a weird size and could be fairly expensive. Interesting to watch none the less and a skill to know if ever needed.
One thing though, others talk about over packing will lead to bearing fail as well, did you pack it completely full ? and do they still work perfectly today ?
Aren't you that guy who made the mouse hole video.... I loved that video.. Ok I know it's you after seeing the last 5 seconds of this video. Nice one. I like your face.
bad idea to get paint thinner inside the bearing, should have skipped that step altogether as simple wipe down would suffice, but your idea of how to get grease back in was great, very good thinking.
Nice techniques. If you mechanically retained the bearing and grease gun tip in the block it'd be easier. Worth doing new bearings this way, too, in some cases.
Folks, please don't use paint thinner to wash out grease from your bearings. Paint thinner leaves behind stubborn residues in amounts significant enough to destroy the lubricant oil-soap dynamics in your grease. Chlorinated brake cleaner should be your solvent of choice here. And even then, you must thoroughly chase out the old grease/brake cleaner solution from inside the bearing housing with a compressed air gun and let dry completely before you can apply fresh grease. p.s. rubber seals must be removed before solvent application. This is because solvent exposure degrades rubber
Если нельзя заменить подшипник, можно конечно и так сделать, но количество смазки должно быть определенным. Шприцом набьется слишком много, но это не очень страшно. Лишняя выдаваться, а пылесосом вообще неизвестно сколько. Скорее совсем мало. Придется часто повторять набивку
Worked in a production shop for years that had bandsaws,I have seen the blade snap on numerous occasions,I would never run a bandsaw without the cover in place.
In bearings that have plastic protectors, it is easy to remove these covers for cleaning and regreasing, but when these protectors are made of tin, usually the covers get dented when removed and assembled. This way to regrease this type of bearing is very well thought out. God bless you.
