2009 Volvo XC70 T6 125,000km. Problem with broken wires inside the the lever will affect one or more functions to stop working. Repair is not difficult and includes repairing the wires inside. 31275354 140$ CAD
The scary thing is that many faults which are described on this channel have happened or will eventually happen to my V70 (2010, 203000 km). Rear hatch gas struts, door locks, door hinges, all have failed on my car and could be repaired by myself thanks to these videos. So I am now waiting for the column stalk to fail 😅
Relieved to see the steering wheel doesn't have to go off. I also have an issue with the turn signal stoke on my 2012 S80. I signal all the time as well but try using the comfort blinker to avoid issues now. When I turn right, I have my right turn signal on. Only when I (very) quickly steer back to center (tight European roads, 90° intersection, no visibility, so you don't camp in the middle of the road), the right turn signal cancels but the left turn signal activates even though my steering wheel is centered. Seems like a lack of lubrification from the small white tab touching the board. I feel like it got harder to manipulate in the last two years. Now I know where to lubricate the assembly. Shouldn't be too difficult. Big savings in perspective. Massive thanks !
Nice work. Another experience ✅. I'm getting myself prepared for blower fan motor replace. I've seen your video about it and it makes more sense than a dealer procedure. Fingers crossed 🤞
Thank you so much for filming this and putting together this video. Very well done. I bought XC70 -08 yesterday. Read button didn't do anything. According to the seller, it wasn't supposed to do anything, and the only way to clear the message in the display ("No belted passenger in rear" at the time), was to drive away. I didn't quite buy his explanation. But went ahead with the purchase regardless. This was bugging me, and preventing me from interacting properly with the parking heater system, and upon closer inspection I also noticed that someone had already been in the column, without knowing where the clips where, and quite violently at that. Thanks to your video I knew exactly where to push and pull to get it out without leaving any additional trace behind! So I hacked in to it today. I could get the stalk out by only removing the upper hard plastic trim piece and loosening the screws on the lower. Turned out someone had already been in the stalk too, lots of marks from a screw driver. 3 "repaired" wires, of which one was now broken again. Soldered it up, heat shrink, used cloth/wire loom tape to bunch them together again. Not electrical tape as the person before had used... the adhesive of which of course was messy as hell by this point. It only took me an hour as I didn't have to disassemble the entire thing, I didn't have to open the stalk, only the piece that attaches to the column and just fixed the crappy solder joint and put it back together. Just about an hour in total. But I have to say that both the quality and design of this stalk is a joke. Incredibly thin poor quality wires, and routed in such a way that they get worn every time you use the thing for what it's for. My 940 is designed and built differently, let me tell you. Now I wonder.. I'm the third owner of the car, the seller had only had it for about 6 months, and that electrical tape adhesive, I'm not sure it gets that messy in a maximum of 6 months. Maybe he was actually clueless. Was he then also clueless to the fact that the passenger door doesn't actually lock? He had a decent story of why he was selling it, and of course claiming not to know of any major defects with the car, besides what was obvious and already disclosed, and also claiming to have such a sense of conscience that he could never lie or withhold anything serious.. Mine is D5, manual, ~340 000 kilometres. I've either bought myself a lot of car for not really a lot of money, or an incredibly expensive turd.. Never go look at a car slightly hungover and severely sleep deprived. My side plastics are also starting to come loose btw, and your video on that already has me sort of prepared of what to expect. But I must wait for warmer weather. And I'm afraid to tell you the cost of those clips here in Sweden.. let's just say they are not that expensive :) Cheers!
Hello and THANK YOU very much for another great video published right in time for me (-08 XC70, read button stopped working few weeks ago)! 😂👍 Your precise videos have been really helpful to me multiple times (and some from Modrix too, even when I don't speak russia). You did good job, but if I can give you little advice for next time - and there will be next time somewhere else, that's sure - buy few types of automotive wiring harness tapes and in cases like this, use those instead of shrinking tubes. You probably know it already, but those tapes comes handy pretty often. 😂 My other car is - 05 Saab 9-3 and it's all same with Volvo - most weird problems comes from wiring issues... TESA have whole "roadmap" of wiring harness tapes on their website, where you can find, which exactly tape use where... As optimal set for anything around cars I can recommend those types and sizes: TESA 51026 or 51036 in 9 and 19 or 25mm for engine bay (they are extra durable and heat resistant) or wiring which is somewhat "outside", can became wet/dirty and need strong protection against abrasion. TESA 51608 in 9, 19 and 32mm for wiring harnesses in interior and for preventing sounds on plastics etc. (this one in 9mm size would be perfect for this job! 😉) TESA 51606 in 32mm for sound deadening of wiring harnesses and connectors or for adding extra thick layer of protection to problematic places... (thickness 0,8mm! Really strong adhesive. Wonders happened after I used it on door harnesses and buttons on Saab, but on Volvo comes handy too, believe me.) TESA 62309 in 19mm - this one looks like usual electricians tape, but it's made specifically for engine compartment and harsh environment. It's ideal for basic cable routing, for work with plastic cable protectors (hoses, you know what i mean), or in continuos double layer for lower level protection of the harness compared to textile tapes. Hope this summary will be useful to you or anyone here in comments. 😂✌️
I am very impressed. I am rebuilding a 911 engine & build recording studios for a living, but i would not attempt this. You are both skillful & brave. Love your videos & youve saved me $ on my 2007 S80. Thank you! Happy New Year!
Happy new year to you and your family as well! Very informative video again, please keep making them. You saved me and my V70 on several occasions in 2023. Let’s continue for 2024 😃
Many people with new Volvo’s moan about not having electric steering adjustment. But what they don’t know is that Volvo does it as safety feature so that emergency services can move steering wheel out of the way if necessary after an accident. Don’t have to rely on electrics working.
i had the same problem with left stalk on my v70 2010.. did buy a new one and replaced it myself.. and i was carefull not to break the covers over the steering column. that stalk cost me the equivalent of 115 CAD..
It looks like a 6 pin micro JST connector. Would be nice if we can figure out the exact model and pin distance (pitch). Looks like the cable is not more than 15cm long? There are complete sets of cables with connector available pretty cheap (just need to solder new one to PCB). Best case would be to source same type cable terminals and better quality more flexible wires to make a cable that doesn't break due to movement and add connectors to the other end so if needed you can change it without needing to solder.
Great timing mate, i have been having issue with sticky signals on my MY10, the 3xblink sometimes doesnt work. Luckily, all i might have to do is clean the contacts on the inner side of the little board, which would be much less work. The part here in EU goes for around 100€ btw.
@Volvosweden - could you show how to change the antifreeze on the T6? Someone mentioned once you drain it, you can't easily get the antifreeze back to the block because of the thermostat and need some type of vacuum tool?
Great video @volvosweden. I have same lever in my volvo and recently this spinning knob stopped working so I cannot use computer. Any idea if it's fixable?
Im sure you did a better job than an average Volvo dealer, if they even would have repaired it 😂 unfortunately it’s just modular replacements these days an average mechanic doesn’t like jobs like these anymore. Just a little suggestion for (I hope not, but you never know) the next time: try to measure the repaired wire first for resistance, before you assemble the unit again. Could save you lots of time and frustration. 😊
Hi Yuri, are the KYB rear struts working for you? I am not happy with them. For me, they are under spring and bottom out too easily on my V70. I just ordered OEM Volvo struts to replace the KYB units. Very disappointed in them…
That’s odd! I honestly did not feel any different after putting them on the car. I wonder how will they perform under load summer time when I tow my Seadoo and the car fully loaded with stuff and people.
Can you tell me how to fix my problem with i indicators? When I turn on left right signal, then i turn the car right and when the steering wheel goes from right to further than the central position, a little bit to the left, then left ondicator turns on itself. Is it some spring faulty or what? :( It is V70 2009
May I respectfully submit a couple of ideas? First, invest in a set of RACE RAMPS. The most useful ones for your work are about 5 feet long, raise the car 10 inches, and have a ramp section that can be pulled away for access along the underside. I use mine every day, and I love them. Secondly, get yourself a high-quality forehead headlamp. I like FENIX, yes it’s made in China but great quality. Pick one out that has a USB-C recharging port. You can spend a lot more money on a US-made one from a company such as Streamlight but FENIX is a good company. Thanks! Lastly, could you please furnish me with an email address so that I can send you some more ideas from one mechanic to another? Thanks!
Hello! You seem to be a great Volvo mechanic. I’m from USA and I own a 2011, Volvo s80 3.2L. Lately I hear some weird noises from the top of the engine. I don’t know if it’s pcv or something else, but there’s no change in fuel consumption no change in any fluids everything’s good on car but I can’t figure out what’s the sound. Mechanics say the engine is good and everything but I don’t know if it’s suppose to make that noise. Please give me any suggestions to diagnose my car. Thank you very very much for your help and time :)
I greet you with respect. I have some problems with my D4 2013 S60, can you please give me a email or any form of contact, I really need your support. Thank you very much!
