Although I book match panels often enough, I've never been a fan of the change in light from one side to the other. You are quite correct that it just doesn't look right. When gluing up larger panels using multiple different boards from different trees, I try to make sure I have the grain direction all running the same way. Not to make it easier to plane, though it does, but it just looks much cleaner to have all boards look shiny or dull rather than just some and not others.
Very well done! Explained perfectly. My preference is to use book matching only for figured woods (veneers in particular.) With burls, crotches or curls, for example, the chatoyance is not an issue because the light is bouncing busily off the highly figured grain.
You truly are a very clever bloke Steve, thank you once again, Doc14u2. Miss your weekly shows, hope to get back soonish, say hi to Theo mate and again, thanks mate, you have taught me such a great deal 11 out of 10 👍🏻 😎
I absolutely love bookmatching but the change in light drives me crazy. I like oil+wax finishes and they seem to be especially bad for highlighting the difference between each side. Sometimes it can be so drastic that it looks like two different types of wood. I think having a really perfect finish straight from the plane blade can actually accentuate it as well sometimes. It's very satisfying when the effect is minimal and the mirrored pattern is really wild.
Hi Tee Jay, I agree about the frustration of the altered light reflection. If you have some consecutive leaves you can still get a good effect bu using the slip method though. Cheers Steve
@@Woodworkingmasterclass I'm going to try that the next time I bookmatch something, which won't be long. The problem is a lot of the time the outside faces can be boring and you rip it down the middle and fold it out and it's like a modern art masterpiece. I'll have to hunt through my stash to find something that looks good on an outside face and try the slip method. Thanks.
I watched many classical guitar and violin making videos and most of them require book-matching. I suppose that's just the traditional way to do it. There doesn't seem to be any reason that this would make it look or sound better than slip match or using one big piece of wood plate.
Great video! It seem that slip match would be the way to do it, but wouldn’t that create a tabletop that would be more likely to bend/curve? I’ve always been told to flip the boards (end grain be like happy mouth - sad mouth - happy mouth - sad mouth) but with the slip match the grain will all be alike…?
Hi Orlas. You are absolutely correct. I would definitely use the Smile, Sad face way on a table top but for smaller item such as door panels, box lids or joining very thin boards, such as Instrument backs or veneered panels, slip matching is fine. Again, all depends when effect you are wanting, a geometric pattern or an even chatoyance (flash) when the light hits the piece. As you possibly know woodworking is all about compromises and bending the rules and sometimes even making some new ones up! :) . Most important thing is you have fun and are happy with the end results. Thanks for the comment. Cheers Steve
I've been a carpenter for 30 plus years, I HATE BOOKMATCHED! To me, it defeats the purpose of the wood itself...Wood, especially hardwoods, have so much character to the grains...No two trees are alike...Similar, sure but, as in human nature, it's the subtle differences that makes humans interesting...In the 90's bookmatching became a big designer idea...I remember bidding a Wenge cabinet assembly that spec'd bookmatched. ... The cost was ridiculous...But; of course; many designers, don't care about cost...Needless to say; I didn't get the job because of the high price...Wood is art in itself...Leave it the hell alone...:)
Book matching for life. I'm more of a guitar builder, bookmatched wood looks awesome on a guitar.... in my opinion at least. I'm in philly too, cheers!
@@TimTrOn3000 I agree, with guitars and doors...Obviously, since most often they are veneered, they would look terrible with odd graining.. I'm also a musician so I can appreciate the book match on an instrument. What part of philly you in? SWP for me...Good Shepherd...
What about hand planing and scraping the surface? That should help reduce the problem. Also, won't some finishes affect the light refraction and also alleviate the discrepancy?
Hi David well thought out, but unfortunately finishes only seem to magnify the effect and planing or scraping will not alter the grain ordination in the slightest. So you will be stuck with the same problem. Which does not necessarily have to be a problem once you understand what causes the effect and accept it as is. Cheers Steve
Hey!!!! This is wondermuss!!! Now I can negotiate a better price with that guy who lowers his eyebrows--while tilting his nose higher--when he smuggly declares, "Book-marked." I can't wait to see the look on his face when I tell him my guy said, "Get over yourself, hillbilly!" 😂😂😂
You can plane it the other way but the grain will still be @ 180° to the other panel which creates the dull and shiny effect. Hope that help a little. Cheers Steve
@@Woodworkingmasterclass True, and that's a very valid point for fine furniture and the likes. I just found it odd that half the video, and what was made to seem like a major disadvantage, is fixed simply by planing in a different direction.
