One of the most memorable days of surfing that I've ever had. In the morning we rush out to check the waves and it was nothing special to start with but a few hours later it definitely turned into something very special! Kandui start to pulse with the tide changes and the conditions are sheet glass. The water looked like oil. This session I got the longest left barrel of my life. We surfed for a pretty long time and absolutely scored! I probably had the most barrels I've ever had in one session. After that session we head back to the camp to get some more sunscreen and some substance. I was starving and very fried from the sun. Shortly after that we notice the wind is changing so we get straight out to rifles with low expectations. I honestly didn't care how it was going to be because I was already satisfied with all the barrels I had already gotten. I just felt really lucky to get to surf both Rifles and Kandui in the same day! I guess we got a little more lucky than just getting to surf them. One of the owners of Kandui resort named Justis stated that he hasn't seen it that good in 10 years. I feel very blessed and can't believe I got to score the Mentawais like how I did this trip! Hope you guys enjoyed the video, stayed tuned for more the next one might even be better! 😃
Video credit: Kandui Resort
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22 июн 2024
