If your rifle has some weird flyers or you just can't get it to group the way you want, check out the crown of your barrel. It might need a touch up and you can do it yourself for about $6. I'll show you how.
I re-crowned my Mosin after I “trimmed” the barrel a little with this exact method and the exact same supplies you utilized. I remember that it seemed like it took forever to get the job done due to the material being so tough to re-mill It is still a 500 yard tack driver even after the smithing I have done to it. Semper Fi!
Thank you SO much for introducing this idea to me. My G2C Lakeline threaded barrel had gotten really crummy at the muzzle (my neglect) and this method REALLY cleaned it up and restored the crown to the original finish. I used an assortment of diamond stones (for tuning ski edges) to flatten out the end of the muzzle, then used the brass screw with valve grinding compound (from NAPA) and , Voila!! Like new.
The operation you have carried out would require perfect alignment of the axis of the barrel with the axis of the drill chuck. In the video, you can see that there is a slight angle between the two axes. In my opinion, you made the situation worse.
Because the screw head is round, having the shaft off centre doesn’t matter. It’s impossible to cut off centre with a ball as the ball self centers in the bore.
Is the brass screw Straight blade or Philips ? Good video I getting ready to do my 686 barrel that Smith& Wesson says is "in the spec" It looks like the folks at Smith carve the end of the barrel with a Dremel tool.
Be Cuz I like your videos I’ll post a comment. “As usual .. We’ll Done”. Question: How come we never see you talking to your goats, or mumbling either for that matter … show us some goats whispering something. ✌️😎
Does it matter if the screw is slotted or is it better to get a button head style screw? My thinking is the slots would not make it the job as accurate? Correct me if i'm wrong.
That is an interesting idea, however, I noticed that you were kind of wobbling the drill around like you were sanding some paint off of something, but that is EXACTLY what you do NOT want to do in this case, while you are crowning a barrel. You want CONSISTENT angle, and pressure, with the occasional stop for cool down, cleaning, and applying fresh compound. The objective is to get a smooth and even crown all around, so you want to try to align axis of the screwdriver with the bore as closely as possible and keep it there because if the crown is all lumpy and uneven, the gasses that are escaping the barrel just as the bullet is losing contact with the threads, will throw a wobble onto the spin of the bullet and it will NEVER be consistent. Maybe not a big deal at 5 yards, but at 25 you'll notice it, and further out, forget it, you'll never achieve accuracy no matter how good your sights, bench, bags, firing cycle, or anything else. The crown is arguably the MOST CRUCIAL PART of any barrel, in regards to accuracy, so take your time and get it right. Good luck.
The shape of the head will cause it to always remain in contact with the muzzle, even if you wiggle it around like that. It'll keep crowning the barrel.
