This is a great video and put me on the right track, but you can actually skip most of this effort. HotSpring has discontinued the pressure switch part. They now instruct owners to cut the wire off between the board and heater, strip them back and crimp them together. I used an insulated closed end crimp connector, but a wire nut would work as well. It closes the circuit and allows the heater to turn on. The parts guy at the HotSpring store told me the heater is still protected from overheating by other safeguards. This fix worked well for me and cost effectively nothing.
I tried using the aftermarket flow switch, only to learn the switch was defective and did not solve the problem. I spoke with a technician at Spa Depot in Olympia, WA and learned that all you really need to do is cut the wire from the pressure switch on the Watkins heater and splice the wires together from the Molex connector mounted on the mother board. This activates flow and allows the heater to operate properly. The flow switch in not needed. My hot tub heater is now working and regulating as it should.
You are right on sir. After writing my initial comment I researched the heater mfg website. The flow switch is an integral part of the heater, requiring full heater replacement to solve the flow switch problem. At a cost of $238 for the heater + switch combo from the OEM Watkins, it is a poor design. So I jumpered it out temporarily until I could find the flow switch mentioned in this utube. It sounded like “Waterloo”? But of more interest Watkins sells the heater + switch replacement unit mentioned above as a kit that includes a pre manufactured jumper wire to remove the switch from the circuit. I hesitated to make my jumper a permanent solution vs temporary. Know anything about the Waterloo part?
Thanks for the flow switch tip, nice job. My IQ 2020 has failed twice with a different problem, in both cases the spa was completely dead, no sign of life. I traced the problem to the power supply on the motherboard, in both cases it was a 220uf 25V electrolytic on the AC side of the PSU daughter board. The first time I replaced the cap with a no-name brand, big mistake as it only lasted a few years, the second time I used a good quality Elna cap. If you're interested I can provide pictures. :)
Bought used Limelight Flair, heated up good but next day flashing ready and power...came across this video and bought featured part on Amazon...worked like a champ! Thanks for the video and tip!
This is a great video. I own a 2016 Hot Spring Grandee NXT and I keep getting a flashing blue light on the outside panel. I also have the Connextion wireless app that provides me info when something goes wrong with the system. I can also control the hot tub remotely with the app. The problem I am having for some time now that that the error message reads “Circulation is low, clean filters”. Filters are brand new and have been cleaned. I will also get “System interlock on” . I shut down the breakers, wait, then reset breakers. All is good for a few hours. Then I will get the flashing blue light and a Message, “System anterlock on”. The heater works fine after I reset the breaker. I had a tech come out and he bypassed the pressure switch with a jumper, that seem to work for a week. Then started happening again. Tech cam back out and said it’s the computer board, I told him prove it to me. I’m an engineer and understand the principles of this system. He then thought about it and proceeded to disconnect the hose from the circulation pump and the T valve that you removed in your video to let water come out and see if it was clogged in there. He put the hoses back on and starts the system back up. We saw particles come up and through the bottom of the circulation/ozone bubbler vent. Flow appeared to be better. He said this should work now. After he left 2 hours later, I’m back to flashing blue on my panel and the tub is locked out. This issue happens when the tub is not in use and in standard circulation mode. What could be the issue. I do not like throwing money after parts to see if this is the issue. Any help would greatly appreciated and I can do this work myself as I have the tools and aptitude for any repair thrown at me. Been doing it my whole life and owned a 1994 Sundance Royale for 20 years prior to my new 2016 Hot Spring tub. Thanks
Thank you so much for this video! I had the blinking power and ready light problem after draining and refilling our Tiger River Spa and ran across your video. I zeroed in that my problem was a gunked up pressure switch by unplugging the pressure switch plug on the control panel and closing the circuit with a pair of alligator clips. Spa began working again normally with that temporary fix. Ordered the aftermarket flow switch from Amazon along with some tubing and completed the repair today. Super easy especially with a heat gun to soften up the hoses. I'm pretty sure our spa repair place would have wanted to replace the whole heating unit had I called them. You saved me some serious cash! Thanks again!
@@NorcalSpas My husband drained the spa and refilled it. Afterwards the heater return wasn’t putting out water. He had a service person out. Looks like he replaced the main circuit board. Now the heater return works great but it will not heat up. The jets are strong with no surging. On the control panel the power light is solid red and the ready light flashed green. On the circuit boards the D9 is flashing red and D10 is solid green. LIM is solid green. HTR ON lights up green for a few seconds then goes off. The pressure switch looks like it has already been shorted out to itself. When the jets are on D17 is solid red. We have been waiting for the service person for months. I would love to fix this ourselves and cancel our service call. Thanks for any help.
I’ve got the blinking red and green after replacing the water in the spa. How can I troubleshoot to tell if the problem is with the circulation pump or pressure switch?
My hot tub has a blinking red light. It tries to start when I turn on the breakers soon after I hear a click (relay) but then it shuts down. Seems like the small e5 style circ pump isn’t working, it’s hot and won’t move any water. Can this cause the tub to shut down immediately and is there a work around that puts the main jets in low mode to circulate the water without the e5 circ pump? I’ve done that on another brand tub but idk if changing any of jumpers 1-12 can remove the e5 and allow the big jets to do the circulating in a pinch.
You mention both a red and green flashing light. Did I get that right or is it just the green light. I currently have a green flashing light after replacing the two red washers on the end cap of the heater. My circle pump seems to be doing its job, but after inspecting the heater it is obvious that it is not heating up. I am just wondering before hacking the switch, is there a way to make Sur ethat it is the flow switch and not a complete failure of the heater. thanks
Congratulations on your channel, I am a fan of your videos, you are a professional and excellent instructor. I have a HotSpring Jetseeter. When I turn on the jets I hear repeated clicks on the relays. I left the jets on for about 5 to 10 minutes and they stopped working, I checked the voltage (120v) and it was fine, the next step I did was unplug the pump and check if it was working and really if it is ok... I wonder if this is a problem with the relay board or the main board 🤷🏻♂️.... I hope for your help
i have the 2004 prodigy. and i just changed the heater circuit board because it wasn't heating up. now it gets warm but the jets don't work, and every time i press the jet button, the D17 red light comes on. would u happen to know why the d17 light comes on when i press the jet or jet clean button???????? i have called 4 electricians to come take a look but no body knows what they are doing 😔
DID WHAT HE SAID. ORDERED ON AMAZON. MAKE SURE YOU LOOK UNDER SPA FLOW SWITCH OR YOU WON;T FIND IT. ABOUT 50 DOLLARS... WAS SIMPLE TO INSTALL....NOW HEATER IS WORKING FINE
@Hot Tub Cowboy - I have an old Watkins tub I'm trying to get running and the board is fried. Can I replace it with a 3rd party or some sort of aftermarket control board? Finding an IQ 2020 to replace it has been rough.
Hello, I tried this, install the bypass pressure switch, and connected it all back together. Now the red light is no longer blinking but my green light is not on at all and the spa is still not heating any suggestions?
So I have a Hot Spring Vanguard 2014 I have had it serviced it looks like they bi-passed the pressure switch the cutting the wire and twisting the end. I now have a red and green light flashing on my circuit board. The water is flowing through the heater but it will not heat the tub full of water. Can you help me understand what service I need. I've been soured as with the last service tech seems to have cut some corners, I hope they were not at my expence,
I was just given a 2005 hot spring spa like this one but it’s grey in color. It worked perfect when it was moved to its current location. It sat for 10 years and was never run and no water in it. What should I look for to make sure it’s still ok? I have a spa tech coming next week to look it over. Thanks!
@Heather Shay you should have at least one of those lights blinking on the logo. Sometimes in the day time it’s hard to see so you may need to cup your hand over the logo and check or look on the control unit you should either see a solid power or flashing power and ready
How would I figure out the flow switch needed for a Vanguard spa (2013)? I don't see anything online that specifies which switches to use for which spas.
May be a universal solution. This was suggested for my Hot Springs. The difference may just be the plugin. Save old one. You may need the plug to cut and wire in. This does one thing electrically; open or close.
I need help asap. I have this spa, it heats up but then the black switch board with the buttons keeps turning off, and stops heating but the heater and pump works. What could it be??
@@sherryfrith105 you may have a airlock if not filled thru the grey filter stem, check for power to your heater with a meter also there should be a red heater light on the top of your board,it sounds like a airlock thought
Um, why didn't he do all that before he installed the first end? He has the piece to measure against? I'd advice don't use the heat gun inside the cabinet.
@HotTubCowboy my red and green light comes on only when I run the jets the heat is working fine, and the pump is moving water. Great I have had to bleed air out of the pump line in the past to get the bubble out and that usually solve the issue however, this time it seems to continue. Please help if you can. Also, does anybody have the link to the aftermarket part?
Hi Hot tube cowboy, I have a water leakage on the opposite side from the endcap. Who could provide me with an solution? There was a frost damage on the endcap and I‘m afraid that the opposite side has also suffered. Thank you!
No. I’m sorry this is all wrong. You’re deleting the Ozone, the Mazzi, and creating so much more work for yourself. Just replace the original part. It cost the same if not less than the flow sensor, and you wouldn’t have to remove the lower control, the ozone, the mazzi, splice the wire, heat the flex pvc, glue the new flex. The fail rate on those flow sensors are just as bad, they are no better than the hot springs thermistor.
