I used your method to recoating my living room floor. It turns out sooooooo beautiful! I didn't know what to do until I saw your video. I was worried the results would not be good. But my floor become just like a new one. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Thanks very much, I'm glad that your floors turned out great. I did this about five years ago and our floors still look good and are holding up great. Calvin
Absolutely beautiful job! I love this option. Ive been told my floors are not bad by two contractors yet they want to charge an astronomical price to refinish them which definitely does not fit my budget. I think trying this method would give them the renewed look im looking for just fine. I appreciate you for sharing this amazingly affordable method.
Just what I needed! I am cleaning and painting because I am getting ready to sell mi house, and I do not want to pay thousands to have the floors refinished. I did them myself 20 years ago, but I am older now and it is hard labor. I think I can do your method to revive my floors and make the house more appealing and make a good deal out of it. Thank you!
Sir thank you for showing me the process by hand. I did not know that could be done. I did oil base in my living room in the month of January in 2014 it took 30 hours to dry the first coat. It’s hard to believe 4 hours between coats. I will look into this brand. Ty
I love this you took all my worries away I needed to know how to make my floors beautiful again this was so wonder felt so warm & heart felt God bless you both
Beautiful!! Thanks for sharing this inspirational diy video!! If my floors turn out @ least 1/2 as beautiful as yours I’ll be 😃!! You and your family have a very Blessed Day!!!
Floor screening, also known as buffing, is a process that involves lightly abrading the top layer of a floor’s finish. This is typically done using a floor buffer with a fine-grit screening pad. The primary purpose of this technique is to remove superficial scratches and scuffs, preparing the floor for a new coat of finish. Unlike sanding, screening does not remove significant layers of wood or finish, making it a gentler option.
Great How to Video. We just bought a house where the old owners scratched up the old floors looks like when they were moving out. Will your method get rid of the scratch marks?
I have seen some comments on here about adding stain to the floor to match the wood. This just a screen and recoat, in which he just removing the old polyurethane and recoating. Your floors should be in good condition for this method. Using a handheld sanding screen or buffer can remove poly. After which the floors should be thoroughly cleaned. And then you can coat with poly. To stain, you should sand to bare wood. Adding stain over stain will not look good. Not a fan of how he applied the poly; it is almost as if he mopped it on. Maybe he was doing the way you would use a roller, but he did not feather it. But I have to give credit, I saw one comment saying that he says, "without sanding" and then sands the floor. The presenter did not sand the floor, just abraded the old poly. He just wanted to show a very low-cost method of adding some shine to old or worn-down floors. I am sure he helped people save a lot of money.
looks amazing.. I did my dining this weekend it didnt look good. I used Makita electric sander and used 3 different grit sandpaper. When I apply the water-based ploy paint.. Some area is darker than other.. what caused this?
Thanks for watching. I did the floors early in the morning and we left the windows open in that room with a fan blowing air from the dining room next to it. We came back and I put the second coat on. My wife couldn't take the smell. We left again and came back late in the evening. The floor was dry enough to walk on and we went to our bedroom and stayed in there. The odor didn't bother her then. Hope that helps. Calvin and Marie
Hi there! With this method, could the floors have taken a new stain before the polyurethane finish? We have light, glossy floors, and we want to remove the shine, stain a tad bit darker, and finish with a water polyurethane. Does that sound disastrous? :D
If you want to stain the wood darker then you probably should get a floor sander to completely remove the old polyurethane. This technique only scuffs up the old polyurethane so that new polyurethane will stick to it.
Love the video! I had some ceiling repair work done in my apartment last week and they didn't properly tarp the floor so now I have muddy joint compound material all over my floor. No cleaner or mop has been able to get it out. The floor looks dull and feels grainy when I walk on it. Would this approach work in this situation? Thanks!
The sanding screen I used is designed for sheetrock so it will definitely get the sheetrock mud off of the floor and make it feel smooth. The only problem is that sheetrock mud is white and the white will penetrate the wood floor if there was any bare spots that didn't have a good finish on it. You need to take a spot and test it to see if it will remove it for you. Good luck with it. Thanks for watching... Calvin
God bless you, floors look incredible. My hardwood floors look like yours before you refinished them. I have a question if you can please answer. I have a bungalow and 3 bedrooms on same level with the living room and hallway but l cannot do all the rooms at the same time. I would start the hallway and living room on day one and bedrooms on day two, and the question is, how do I avoid any lines between the hallway and bedrooms as the hallway got done the day before so that the hallway and bedroom floors blend beautifully, hopefully l am explaining myself right. Would l lightly sand the spots where the hallway meets the rooms? Thank you for reading this.
Thanks very much. What I did was when I did the hallway I put it to the exact center of where the doorway is so if it leaves a line it is not very noticeable. I still haven't did the bedrooms yet because they are not as bad. I have a small spot in the hallway about two inches wide near a closet door that I didn't cover good and it is just barely showing. I'm going to put just a very thin coat on that spot to make it better. Good luck with your project. Calvin
@@SouthernCountryLiving Thank you that makes sense. I tried something, l did a trial on 2 pieces of wood where l put polyurethane halfway down on each plank and waiting for 1st coat to dry and will add a 2nd coat then l will wait a day or two to add polyurethane on the other half. The one piece l will just add the polyurethane without sanding to see if it levels nicely without a line and the other plank l will sand lightly where l would think a line would be visible. Time will tell.
Thanks for watching. It is necessary to sand lightly so that the polyurethane will stick ti the floor. I have two very small spots that I didn't sand enough and I can tell that it is coming loose. That will be easy for me to just do that small spot. You just need to sand lightly so that the new polyurethane will stick good. The way I did it only took a very short time to go over it. Have a great week, Calvin and Marie
Hi I dont want to use the sander machine my wood floor have small gaps the polyuretane fill the gaps? is not big gaps,If i use the wood filler I'll need a sander nachine right? Thanks for your video very helpfull
The polyurethane is not going to fill the gaps. I had a few small gaps in mine and even though it didn't fill them, it still made it look a lot better.
Thanks for watching. If you wanted to put stain on to make it darker, it would be best to sand the floors enough to get all of the old finish off first.
Our stain is now dry and we are set to put down our water base polyurethane tonight. Online someone stated that you can’t sleep at home for at least 2days while it’s drying? Is that true? We have the same brand of poly as you do.
We left windows open and fans blowing all day long. We kept our bedroom sealed off and we slept there the first night. You will need to make your own decision about staying the first night because every house is different and some people are more sensitive to the fumes.
That is a sanding pad used for finishing sheet rock. I used the mesh sanding screen to scuff up the old finish before I applied the new polyurethane. You can find them at any hardware stores.
hey my flor is not too damage just on some parts is scratched and doesn't have shine what i can put on it just to recover the shine ? can i put polyurethane without doing anything to it ?
If you put polyurethane on, you must make sure the floor is very clean and if there is any old polyurethane left on floor you need to use a scuff pad to take the old shine off so that the new polyurethane will stick and not peel off. Good luck...Calvin
You need to use the 120 grit sheetrock sanding screen. You just rub the existing finish enough to dull the finish so that the polyurethane will adhere to the floor. You don't rub it until you see bare wood.
Thanks for watching. The best I can remember I only had to use one screen. I bought a pack that had several in it but I don't remember having to change it out while I was doing it. The finish on my floors was almost completely worn off. Good luck with your project, Calvin and Marie
Thanks for watching. This is a low cost way to make old floors look better and protect them from further damage. If her floors are damaged then it won't fix the damage. If they are just faded and dull looking then it is a good way to make them look a lot better. Calvin
Thanks for watching, I don't remember the actual name of the applicator. I went to our local Ace Hardware and told them that I needed one to apply polyurethane. I had checked at Home Depot but they didn't have one.
My hardwood floors are from 1954, and I love the way they look, however, a previous occupant of this house apparently either waxed or poly'd the floors WITHOUT SWEEPING UP THEIR DOGS HAIR. So, there is a lot of dog hair literally glued onto my floors, then sealed in. When the light hits just right, in several areas, it is very noticeable. Will this method remove the dog hair, do you think? Also, does this method put dust all over your whole entire house, like regular sanding would?? Because the dust factor keeps me from sanding. Plus, the planks are all different shades (like yours, but more so) from varying wear and tear, and I'd like to keep that look, which sanding would take away. Mainly, I want to remove the dog hair.
If you can get a spot to test that is in a location that is not to obvious and try this to see if it will get the hairs off. The sanding screen that I used is designed for sanding sheetrock. It is a very fine sand procedure. If this don't get the hairs out then you might try a 100 or 150 grit sandpaper to see it that will help. You can rent a "Square Buff Floor Sander" from Home depot if you need to do a little more sanding to get deeper, but this basically gets it down to the bare wood but doesn't cut into the wood very deep. What I did was not to dusty for me, but we did close off the other rooms and my wife had to stay in another room because of the dust. I hope this helps. Good luck with your project... Calvin
We just bought a house where the previous owners waxed and there is fuzz and mess glued in it. The other issue is there are lighter spots where they had rugs. Will this method help even it out?
If you did it enough you could get it all off but that isn't necessary. All you have to do is rough it up enough to make the poly stick to the floor. You will have to be sure that all of the wax comes off in the process. My floors were so worn that most of the poly was already gone. Try a small test area before you do the entire floor to be sure that it is going to be what you want it to be... Calvin
Thanks for watching, yes that would probably be easier. Home Depot rents a square sander that will make it easier also. On this project my goal was to do it as inexpensive as possible, and it turned out great in our opinion. Have a great week... Calvin
Thanks for watching. Yes you could sand the dark spots down. If you do that when you apply the polyurethane you may get a lighter area where you sanded it down. I've did that years ago and even though it was lighter in a few spots it still looked better than it did before. Have a great weekend, Calvin and Marie
quick question; can I do this on my oak floors, then put a darker stain on? Right now I have a light stain, would like to use like an ebony or dark brown hickory
If your floors have polyurethane on them then the stain will not penetrate the wood. You need to sand the floors enough to get the old polyurethane off first. You could test a small corner or area that is not visible much to see how the darker stain will work. You can rent a small square sander from Home Depot to sand the floors enough to stain them if you want to do that yourself. Good luck with your project, Calvin and Marie
@@SouthernCountryLiving the floors havent been refinished in 30 years, any poly that may have been there is practically worn off. i was going to sand with a 100 grit then go 150 then 200, just over the floor and hope that works, ill do a small section first probably in the closet lol. see how it works. yours look awesome
That depends on how much traffic the floor gets. I did this about about 20 years ago and just had to do it again this time. These floors only get minor traffic except the hall.
I sent you an email with pics. Just removed carpet. It looks like I have about three different shades of floors in the connected rooms. Do you think I can get away with just screening
Thanks for the answer. My floors are a medium dark stain with large areas where it is down to bare wood. Renting a sander is a huge chore and I don’t want the dust. I suppose my best choice is to use a darker stain that would cover? A lot of the floor will be covered with a rug and furniture.
The darker areas of your floors will still be darker but it will put a shine on the floors and make them easier to clean. Mine still had the old finish, it was just looking dull. If your finish is off in some areas and it got wet and turned darker then you may have to sand to remove the darker areas. Good luck with your project.
Thank you the problem is where everyone walked it's dull dirty looking and darker than the rest. I'll try and see how it looks because it's worth doing it your way
Maybe is that area you can just use some sandpaper and sand it lightly to get some of the darker area off. Another friend of mine did something similar to that and was happy with how it looked afterwards.
Thanks for watching, a man that I know that does floors for a living recommended that I use the screen to scuff off the top layer of old finish. He said that is what they use when they put their second and third coat on floors. It worked good and didn't cost very much. If you need to sand a little more off it might be best to rent one of the square floor sanders to go over your floors with.
The polyurethane was made by Varithane, I bought it at Home Depot. I bought the application pad from Ace Hardware but I don't remember what brand it was.
Thanks for watching. What I used is called sheetrock sanding screen. I don't remember the brand but I got it at Home Depot. It has small holes like a window screen and it will scuff off the old finish enough that the new finish will adhere to the floor. Sorry that it was so dark during the video. Have a great week, Calvin and Marie
Thanks for watching. Sanding would be sanding the wood floor. All I did was scuff the old polyurethane enough for the new polyurethane to stick. Have a great week, Calvin
Jerry, you obviously never had to clean every horizontal and vertical surface after running a floor sander or you wouldn't say something so patently foolish.
