Reflow attempt 2 on a custom LED art PCB (with resist).

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Another attempt at doing a hotplate reflow with manually applied solder paste, but on a custom PCB with solder resist this time. JLC PCB (not a sponsor) delivered these PCBs in just 6 days. I think that's the fastest I've had a batch of PCBs delivered.
This is a version of the Gallium PCB that fits into a standard 6" by 4" (about 100 by 150mm) picture frame and powers 54 independent LEDs from a standard USB power supply.
I've made a few of these before, but this one is part of an experiment with hand application of solder paste diluted with flux. It worked, but the flux evaporated quickly and caused some of the solder to crack and ping before it had melted. Only one of the resistors failed to solder properly, and was easily fixed with a soldering iron and touch of flux.
Next test will be hand soldering in a few different ways.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
This also keeps the channel independent of RU-vid's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Опубликовано:

30 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 358

@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff 4 года назад

Clive, thanks for mentioning my LED artworks that use color changing LEDs. Followers can see them on my web site: www.arttec.net/art/Relevators.html or my RU-vid channel: ru-vid.com/show-UCsMMAXVbrw4f_1Y8J3tZK3g

@Berkeloid0 4 года назад

Note to self - if I ever need a PCB order done quickly I need to make sure it says "BIGCLIVEDOTCOM" on it in large letters

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

I did wonder if that had an effect...

@dosgos 4 года назад

hahaha

@DaedalusYoung 4 года назад

They're quick enough as it is. I've ordered on 19 May, and I had different colours solder mask, which take longer to produce, and I chose DHL shipping, which is cheaper, but slower, and the current tracking status says it will be delivered on the 28th. It'll take JLCPCB 24 hours to produce your boards. Pay extra for faster shipping and you can have your boards in just a few days. I doubt they care about what name is printed on the boards.

@richardbrobeck2384 4 года назад

@@bigclivedotcom I bet! Because you have started to become a legend among youtubers !

@DaedalusYoung 4 года назад

Update, DHL shipped my boards from China to the UK in one night, it actually updated the delivery date to today instead, so yeah, order several boards in different colours and get them delivered in 7 days seems pretty normal for JLCPCB.

@brucegoatly 4 года назад

Over time it will randomly spell out 'HELP - I AM A PRISONER IN A CIRCUIT BOARD FACTORY'.

@ruinedsoup9337 4 года назад

Bahahahaaa I am

@dragade101 4 года назад

try ramping up and cooling down slowly to avoid the splatter

@ClearlyDigital 4 года назад

I would definitely be interested in one, and I’d love to try the through-hole resistor version if you make one.

@AzurusNova 4 года назад

I would love one of the through hole versions myself. I have 300 of the red blinking LED's, and I would love to see one of these panels with that installed.

@sparkyprojects 4 года назад

A tip when cutting LED's shorter, cut across both leads at an angle so the anode is slightly longer than the cathode ;)

@teresashinkansen9402 4 года назад

The leads also can become very sharp so watch out!

@sparkyprojects 4 года назад

True, but this is just to insert in the board and be able to identify polarity, something i've done several times without pricking myself

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

When I'm cropping the leads for using the LEDs in sockets I always leave the anode longer to make identification easier. But as two cuts.

@whitehoose 4 года назад

Try the gel flux, the thin stuff tends to either be colophony resin dissolved in isopropyl or whatever chemicals to hand, again dissolved in isopropyl which is perfik for irons but flashes off when warmed The gel stays gelly while the solder goes molten under it - you'll get a much better result. I'm going to say also - still too much solder, when you use a stencil, you literally wipe it on and scrape it off - its amazing how little actually sticks to the board.

@steverpcb 4 года назад

The issue that I get is paste running between chip legs during the initial warming and bridging them, solder wick to clean it up after :(

@CaffeinatedTech 4 года назад

A diffuser sheet might look good too.

@Shaun.Stephens 4 года назад

Yep, I was going to post about this but pleased to see if I doubled-up. A diffuser sheet would IMO make it more pleasing as there'd be different colour patches rather than points of light.

@SytheZN 4 года назад

I've found better results with warming the solder paste to around 40c before attempting to squeeze it out a syringe... Normally pop it (capped) into a glass of hot water for a few minutes. I also get much better results with a very short (

@bgdwiepp 4 года назад

I second this. Warming the paste helps greatly, as does the shorter needle.

@dashcamandy2242 4 года назад

I 100% need to build a larger through-hole version of this.

@treelineresearch3387 4 года назад

I use low melt eutectic lead free solder from 247 solder, item number 247-LOWTEMP-15, it's a tin/bismuth/silver formula that melts at around 140C. Can easily be reflowed with a normal heatgun, and I've had success doing IR reflow on small boards using a 50W halogen spot lamp. As far as durability under normal temp ranges it seems to be as good as regular leaded, I've had a dead board in use as a keychain for around a year and the components are still holding fast despite getting enough wear to round off all the corners. If your fab house supports making stencils they're totally worth it if you're making more than a few copies of something, turns the paste application process from a tedious hand cramping nightmare to a couple swipes of an old hotel room keycard.

@garycrockett4477 4 года назад

I'd love a copy of the Gerber file for a thru-hole circuit board for both the LEDs and the resistors. I'm not ready for SMD components yet.

@Keeping_IT_Simple 4 года назад

One more vote for a Through-Hole version in kit form please! Have you considered getting a stencil made for the Surface Mount Version to help you in applying the solder paste ?

@mrsheesh3743 4 года назад

It's honestly not that hard to learn to do this for yourself, find a PC board software package that you can live with, learn to draw up the schematic, translate that file into a starting PC board file, move the components to proper positions and put traces down to connect it all, and you can even do your own PC board at home with Toner Transfer or the UV resist methods. For one of us to make a kit involves putting a bunch of our money in to buy PC boards that others may not buy, plus the time. So most of us would far rather teach someone how to do it, than do it for them!

@mumblbeebee6546 4 года назад

Indeed, that would be my next request - saw Joe Barnard do it the other day and had not even considered before that this would be a 'homer' option. It would be interesting to trade-off of extra design work / extra cost for the stencil vs. time saved during assembly, and - perhaps? - more happiness? :)

@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994 4 года назад

Hey Clive make the board dual through hole and SMD would make a lot of sense. Seems to be plenty of room to make it happen :)

@Arek_R. 4 года назад

I ordered some PCBs from JLCPCB that were sent on May 12 via EuroPacket and are still being delivered, planned for this tuesday, was supposed to be delivered 17-20th. Apparently EuroPacket = DHL and it was stuck for days in Germany and it was literally saying "On hold" On purpose I didn't chose DHL, they are always making problems or adding illegally some extra charges. Currently JLCPCB has, DHL standard, DHL priority, DHL priority DDL, DHL turtle(called EuroPacket) and if you don't want DHL your only option is some Postlink that can take up to 25 days. You literally have only two companies to chose, pretty sure they cut some deal with DHL.

@GadgetBoy 4 года назад

So, that drying out of the paste might be from heating the PCB too quickly and/or too hot. You have to bring it up to temperature rather slowly. I'm basing this off of the ovens we had at Fleetwood, they had five different temperature zones and it took a populated PCB 30 minutes to go through them.

@1kreature 4 года назад

The pinging solder is volatiles and water boiling off under half dries solder. Try instead to have the hotplate at room temp and turn it on to 80-90c. Then after it has slowly heated to 90c leave it for at least 30 seconds before turning it up to reflow temp. Let it reach reflow temp and soak for at least 10 seconds before turning off the hotplate. Depending on board you can then let it cool slowly or remove from plate once solder has firmed up. I do this all the time and there is no pinging solder.

@solarguy6043 4 года назад

A nice effect on your random changers. Hey, how about a nice little "how to" on building a decent flashlight to carry around. Certainly, there are lots of cheap options to buy. But I don't want 3 or 4 or 7 modes. Who need that strobe/flashy thing anyway? And really......Morse Code??? Perhaps based on an 18650 cell and decently bright but decently long life. Make it relatively easy to replace the LED or the driver circuit instead of just throwing it away periodically when something fails. Or maybe start with a commercial product and modify it? I'm confident you have ideas for this. And what is your EDC (Every Day Carry) flash light??

@benbaselet2026 4 года назад

I've seen a few of these solder paste and reflow DIY experiments and it still seems to be just slower and more difficult than manually soldering 1 pad, tacking in the components and then soldering the rest normally. I never tried any reflow work myself and I really don't see the point for the stuff I have seen so far. Maybe if you do alot of it there are benefits when you get the process going but .. it still looks so very awkward to me.

@ABaumstumpf 4 года назад

Small SMD-Parts or BGA come to mind. Worked on a tiny board (24x20mm)together with a friend with minimal track-width and track-distances the whole board was covered. Quite a few 0201 components - pain to solder by hand, some parts with leads mostly under the chip. And we needed at least 5 of those suckers. So we just whipped together a bigger board with 10 of them in it, a stencil from the board-manufacturer and the rest was simple: Fix the stencil, spread the past, drop in the components, reflow, done. Takes no were near as long as soldering >500 mostly tiny parts by hand. but for 1-off projects? Only if you have to - like BGA.

@benbaselet2026 4 года назад

@@ABaumstumpf True, the more we go to BGA and super dense stuff, of course working techniques must change too. That's actually starting to be a bit of a pain in the near future when some chips will only be available in awkward packages for DIY home gamers. Regular SMD is usually brilliant and easy to work with but some kind of a microscope and steady hands seems to be more and more a requirement at least.

@thsinger 4 года назад

I'm still waiting for my first order from PCBWay look like it arrived i n Germany very fast but then get lost somewhere here, that is waht happen when HERMES is the subcarrier in Germany. But next time I will also use JLPCB I found there EDA Software very easy.

@zebo-the-fat 4 года назад

Is the slow reflowing of the corners due to the board not being perfectly flat? Maybe some way to press it down to the hot plate would help.

@Nono-hk3is 4 года назад

I've had very good results using a yehua heat gun, of course you need to be mindful of blowing components off their pads. I've thought about using a hot plate to bring up the temperature of the circuit board to below melting temperature, but enough to let the heat gun finish the job more rapidly than otherwise. I also greatly value having a stencil, although that brings its own kind of setup problems and mess. I used to use a dremel tool to route a recess in hardboard to drop the circuit board in so the stencil lays flat, but now i just make due with other circuit boards and tape to prop the stencil up.

@peut 4 года назад

Same experience here.

@dosgos 4 года назад

Louis Rossmann technique!

@frankhovis 4 года назад

Was just about to post similar, personally I'd of reflowed those resistors using hot air, it'd be way quicker and doing them in stages would be a lot less risky and fiddly.

@steverpcb 4 года назад

Use the large nozzle and minimum airflow, pre heating the pcb on an ironing type iron held upside down in a vice of knowledge drys out the solder paste speeds it up :)

@frankhovis 4 года назад

@@steverpcb There are largish "PTC Aluminum Heating Element Heater Plate, 250 Degrees" from ebay and Amazon etc. They are nearly hot enough to actually reflow without extra heat and a lot easier to use than an iron.

@BRUXXUS 4 года назад

As a bit of a noob in circuitry and soldering, I often get the urge to just solder stuff. I find it so relaxing and satisfying. A project like this would be like pure meditation for me. :D If only we could find some warm white candle flicker LED's I bet this could look quite interesting with them.

@happywifehappylife9281 4 года назад

Yep, it is therapeutic. Hopefully Clive puts these on the shop as I haven't brought anything from him yet, but want to change that!

@BRUXXUS 4 года назад

@@happywifehappylife9281 Did you know he's posted the GERBER file for this (the updated version with SMD and thru-hole) on his website? I placed an order with JLCPCB a few days ago and should have my boards by the end of the week! 😁

@happywifehappylife9281 4 года назад

BRUXXUS aha, fancy! I will do the same!!

@davidferguson8478 4 года назад

Have you ever thought about using smd leds ?

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

Yes, but there's more variety in traditional 5mm ones.

@theskett 4 года назад

I don't yet find color-changing SMD LEDs (although RGB are available, but too painful to solder :-)

@ksjhi 4 года назад

Clive, have you already seen the slow color-changing LED in SMD form factor 0807? Your previous videos inspired me to build a small LED tree with those SMD LEDs.: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WOqtvYt1390.html I think a panel with the 0807s might also look great, you could pack them more densely. Even at only 2 mA each they are really bright. You can find them in the usual places (eBay, AliExpress) by searching for "0807 slow RGB".

@ksjhi 4 года назад

Yesterday, I tried and built a small LED panel (40 mm by 40 mm) with 64 "slow" color-changing LEDs in size 0807, again running at 2 mA each: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cekW8eaC-gA.html

@juncusbufonius 4 года назад

Thanks, it reminded me I've not had the Gillians Diamonds on this week. Click.

@SimpleElectronics 4 года назад

I wonder if you filled it up with candle flicker LEDs if they would average out to a relatively even light

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

I made one of those recently in another video. It was quite fierce.

@SimpleElectronics 4 года назад

@@bigclivedotcom is there any chance I could convince you to put a scope on the power lines? Just wondering what the noise would be like!

@frogz 4 года назад

just turned on my speakers and i dunno if you mentioned it but are you catching a cold? your voice sounds weaker and courser than usual, btw can you check your other folder on facebook and message me back? me and some friends are trying to get some UVC products together and i need your advice

@frogz 4 года назад

also, my cheat for electronics, despite the fact it isnt made for electronics, Oatey 30011 Paste Flux #5 it is made for pipes and after about 8 years the little metal tin it came in is highly rusted but none of the electronics i've used it on have had any issues and that includes re-capping a pentium d motherboard some 8 years ago, its still working today and no corrosion! you can literally just take a smear on the tip of your finger and rub it across the board without even worrying where it goes, the solder mask alone is enough to keep it only on the copper

@Ni5ei 4 года назад

How do you want your circuit board? Let's make it well-done in the middle and rare on the sides.

@theskett 4 года назад

D'you think that's the fault of the hot plate? I guess BC should point his FLIR at the plate, without a board on it, and see whether it's isothermal-ish :-)

@MattJBaugh 4 года назад

I'd happily buy a kit! Not done any manual surface mount soldering in years, and I like the idea of a light up ornament

@generaldisarray 4 года назад

I once, stupidly, bought an alarm clock kit that had a 44 pin surface mount processor in it. Getting the tiniest amount of solder paste onto the pads was a nightmare, so in the end I never managed to get that dam chip mounted... "Just mount the 44 pin microprocessor on to the PCB" the instructions said, "JUST mount the 44 pin microprocessor on to the PCB"....Oh "JUST" is it, "JUST".... Well why don't you JUST try it, instruction writer, yeah try it in a home gamer situation....Cause when you reach over and put your hand into a pile of goo that was once perfectly good solder paste, you'll know what to do!..... Forget it, man, you weren't there man, you don't know the things I've seen....

@billbucktube 4 года назад

Good job, Clive. I like that you let "Real Life" enter your videos. "I had to reverse one led..." I really enjoy having random lights around my shop area. I have several of the "Flame Bulbs" in and about my shelving. This looks good for the desk area.

@dribblegoo6808 4 года назад

This maybe a really stupid question, but why not use a single 220k resistor at the entry point to the circuit rather than a separate resistor for each LED?

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

It's designed for multiple types of LED, some with different forward voltages.

@dribblegoo6808 4 года назад

@@bigclivedotcom Thanks Clive - I love watching the channel although can't pretend to understand it all!

@Peter_S_ 4 года назад

I did the hot plate reflow for a little but it was futile in comparison to even a foil lined toaster oven which I also did for a while. I finally settled on an Aoyue oven which was roughly $1000 at the time and the difference is enormous. I rarely use through hole parts now outside of connectors. I cannot suggest enough getting a Chinese oven like the ubiquitous T-962A and perhaps an upgraded controller for it such as the Reflow Master from Unexpected Maker.

@BinderTronics 4 года назад

The pinging effect is the because of heat shock. Try heating the board with the plate to just before the solder melts and then give it some hot air to melt it. Those pads look too small for those resistors. About a 25% longer pad on each side (so it stick out under the resistors) should make the straiten out nicely (my rule of thumb). If you can be bothered to make a custom footprint. It will make the resistors also much more iron friendly as you can place it on both the pad and pin. Really like those LEDs might consider getting myself some just need to figure out a use case.

@cybertwigg1 4 года назад

A version of that building frame is still sold on rapid. www.rapidonline.com/ideal-tek-pcsa-series-printed-circuit-board-holders-521108

@drteeth7054 4 года назад

Crazy prices!

@markb4071 4 года назад

pileofstuff kinda made his own variant lol

@gregw1076 4 года назад

Couple other ones I just found: gie-tec.de/product/pcb-assembly-and-soldering-frame/?lang=en www.manixmfg.com/flip-over-pcb-assembly-system.html

@richardperritt 4 года назад

Looks like a similar circuit board assembly frame is available from Gie-Tec Gmbh (gie-tec.de) [ Products -> PC Board Prototyping -> Soldering Technology -> PCB Assembly and Soldering Frame] Also elektronik-lavpris.dk. cliffuk.co.uk used to carry one but I don't think they do anymore. nutsvolts.com magazine has an article (September 2011) on building your own.

@ingmarm8858 4 года назад

Why on earth didn't you just use a normal off the shelf tube of fresh solder paste... I've never had an issue dispensing it by hand. Adding the flux to "dilute" it will mess things up as you've already seen. Just no.....

@cremationpete 4 года назад

Red yellow and blue? How would that produce green at any point? Blue and yellow combined produce white...don’t they?

@scottmarshall6766 4 года назад

Maybe paint the PCB with the tri-color paint like green/violet/magenta (one of my favorites, and it's available in spray cans(you do need to use a graphite basecoat)). I'd be hoping the LEDs would activate the different colors based on color and direction, it might have an interesting effect with zones changing color. Or it could do nothing, but it's worth a try if you don't mind investing in the paint. Glad you got the soldering working a bit better. Try hot air next time you have a chance. The paste works ok if you just touch it with a soldering pencil so that's always a fallback, as is place and solder conventionally. Thanks Clive. Nice project. I feel a PIC version coming on...

@PIXscotland 4 года назад

Might be better to keep that hot plate down to about 150c and airflow them individually. That was my method using an old clothes iron. Didn't take long at all. Curious how you diluted the solder though...

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

I got solder paste and added flux until it got to a dispensable consistency.

@rimmersbryggeri 4 года назад

I thought the same about heating also what about smd LED's and maybe a flexible board so i could be wrapped around one of thsoe cardboard tubes posters are delivered in. Could make quite a cool modern take on a lava lamp.

@gregorythomas333 4 года назад

@@rimmersbryggeri/videos Very nifty idea...might have to try that myself :)

@rimmersbryggeri 4 года назад

@@gregorythomas333 Please show the results. I don't have the resources to make my ideas myself. Thats not a reason to keep them to myself if they can spread joy though.

@mrsheesh3743 4 года назад

bigclivedotcom it's all a learning experience, isn't it? At least you aren't stuck with Cordwood construction for your LED panels :P (Old missile etc. method, stack components like cordwood, had to be a nightmare to initially set up those designs...) Glad the solder resist helped you, that's its' job :)

@fastamx069box8 4 года назад

Hello, I am a Manufacturering Engineer plus for 50 years. That type of PCB has a tendency to bow. This is why it unevenly soldered. Next time use Q-tips to clean the solder paste off the board and instead use a heat gun. Conduction Soldering is not the best in an uncontrolled environment. Ask me anything about assembly and I will be glad to provide you with any assistance you may need. Kindest regards, Fastamx.

@crazygeorgelincoln 4 года назад

I liked the bit where it seemed to have a harder edge between the colours. I switched the LEDs in a Poundland headtourch for colour changing ones ,made a nice gift I thought. Liking the progress on the reflow technique, the wave solder series will be a scream

@ManWithBeard1990 4 года назад

I always assumed having a yellow and a blue (equally bright) LED would give a more or less white light, albeit with a particularly poor color rendition. I don't think you'd be able to get green out of it. In fact, I reckon it is the second worst way to get white light from an LED. The absolute worst way, of course, is to light an LED on fire. While that does provide warm white light and a lovely continuous colour spectrum, even without a power supply, it does shorten the life expectancy of the component rather dramatically, to the point where I can't recommend it despite these advantages.

@jkobain 4 года назад

I may be horribly wrong about what I'm going to say, but I think you'd better draw narrower (0° along the component, not turned 90°) solder pads *and* add just a little solder paste to help them align your SMD components for you with the surface tension of solder. Again, I may be horribly wrong, but it's what comes to my mind when I see narrow resistors gliding left and right on wide pads…

@wreckless_-jl6uu 4 года назад

How come not just order a solder stencil when you ordered the PCB... would be sooo much eachier to put the solder on that way...

@Kae6502 4 года назад

I've never done any SMD, so I have no idea how much this would add to the cost of a board. I've watched both methods on RU-vid, and given my age, that's the only way I'd ever attempt it! ;)

@mrsheesh3743 4 года назад

Just ask their web site, with dimensional details of the PCB you want to make. Default size etc., the stencil cost is $7, stencils are fairly inexpensive in other words :)

@pjtruslow 4 года назад

Hey Clive. I hope you see this I used the hotplate reflow method yesterday on a massive 400 pin connector 40x10 array surface mount, 0.05" spacing. it is a Searray connector with solder charges on the pins, and I used solder paste with a cheap stencil from JLC and a credit card. I heated a plate of aluminum on the hot plate to 550F, placed the board on, waited until the solder began to melt and waited 30 seconds, then removed the board. It looks absolutely beautiful, and was a connector that is completely impossible to solder without a good reflow oven, or so I thought. no melted plastic on the connector, and every joint looks beautiful. It did take a few attempts to get a good solder paste application, and i specifically selected everything with a lead/tin alloy to make life easier. Thanks for showing the method.

@alanangelfire1217 4 года назад

Most PCB manufacturers (JLC included) will offer to sell you a paste screen for a few extra pounds, the idea being you align the screen over the PCB and "wipe" the paste down the screen to place a perfect amount of paste on the exposed pads. I've never seen your technique of applying the paste by syringe directly to the pads! Professionally I use solder paste from RS (other suppliers available) that comes supplied with a fitting for the pneumatic dispensers, as it is viscous enough to hold the components while still liquid enough to dispense by hand if needed; never had any issues with it, even when using a hot-air gun to reflow.

@thsinger 4 года назад

I just wanted to support you in Patreon to get the chance to get a original "bigclive.com" PCB and just see that I supoort you allready. ;)

@Regelos 4 года назад

An idea for a future lighting/pcb project is I hobby (warhammer 40k for me) and a nice painting light that's bright. I've tried a couple less expensive ones, and you get what you pay for sometimes so they weren't great, I'd love to see your take on one.

@bdf2718 4 года назад

Instead of oversized holes for the LEDs, specify square holes of the correct size.* *They may charge extra for square holes. A *lot* extra.

@Boraxo 4 года назад

That board could still be drilled for through-hole resistors if stood on end.

@mboberlin 4 года назад

I would use the hot plate only for preheating at 100-150 deg, C. Then using hot air at 300-350C works very fine and fast with solder paste and the parts reflow perfectly.

@borayurt66 4 года назад

Instead of shouting at the screen, maybe I should comment here: 1) Your hot plate is too hot. 2) You put too much solder paste. 3) Don't dilute the solder paste, heat the board around 50C, that will soften the paste and give you good adhesion while putting your solder bits.

@KanalFrump 4 года назад

With all those individual PWM circuits going off the common power rails, I wonder if there's anything going on like the synchronizing effect that happens when you place mechanical metronomes on a flexing board.

@technosasquatchfilms 4 года назад

my first board order was a project like this. 50x50mm with 9 led spots, I Think my traces need to be thicker on the next version. Wanted to make little color changing cube contraptions.

@tomgeorge3726 4 года назад

Hi Clive, when you do the hot plate reflow, it looks like the base of the PCB gets much hotter than the rest of the PCB too quickly, by the time the top is reflow hot enough the flux is more than cooked and the solder "very slowly" bought to temperature. Can I advise, from reflow devices that I have serviced, you make it like an oven, put an insulated cover over to get the heat into the PCB quicker and more evenly. OR use a heat gun over the top as the hotplate heats up. Sorry but as it reflowed all I could see was a mass of dry joints.

@bob_._. 4 года назад

Having blue and yellow lights won't give you green light. With pigments, cyan, magenta and yellow are the primaries and mixing cyan and yellow makes green (Printers have long referred to cyan as blue and magenta as red to save syllables). But with light, blue, red and green are the primaries and mixing red and green makes yellow. Yellow light and blue light are complementaries and mixing them will give white light.

@InssiAjaton 4 года назад

If I remember correctly, the recommended hole size is such that on every side around the component pi there is 0.06 inches (0.15 mm) space. That allows an optimal amount of solder to make contact. And at the same time it facilitates a good solder removal, if need be. That recommendation of course is given for plated holes For single sided board I suspect the optimum gap is smaller, but I have no memorized recommendation, as I have not designed such for several years.

@xKatjaxPurrsx 4 года назад

So, when I did solder reflow I took an old toaster oven and built a small pcb with a thermocouple amp and then just used an arduino running a PID loop to turn the toaster on/off with an SSR and programmed in a few points in time to follow the solder paste manufacturer's recommended temperature profile. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-upZjvdB_0sE.html Other folks apparently get away with just opening and closing the toaster door by hand though.

@iRrrmanion1 4 года назад

What about using a general purpose solvent (isopropyl maybe?) instead of the flux to dilute the paste? Also, will you be making the file available?

@kyrengorkian 4 года назад

Next experiment - ask JLPCB for a stencil to match the pcb. With pcb and stencil in register wipe solder paste across the stencil. This will deposit just the right amount of paste on the pads.

@fredflintstone1 4 года назад

I have never had good success with a hotplate, they are okay for small units, or stripping a PCb down, but hot air for small batches of larger boards I think is better and more controllable to save burning the boards :-) Nice video though and glad to see you keep trying

@lxOFWGKTAxl 3 года назад

I just received those from JLCPCB today can't wait to put it together. The quality is amazing! To took about a week to get mine in the divided states

@rayceeya8659 4 года назад

You could very easily create that sweeping wave effect if you soldered a different value capacitor in parallel with each row. The higher the value the longer that delay before that row turns on.

@jayzo 4 года назад

I know you're trying to do it yourself, but for those who don't have the hot plate or don't want to do it, JLCPCB has an assembly service.

@Fayshun 4 года назад

100% do a through hole one, I'm learning how to solder!

@treborrrrr 4 года назад

Practice on SMD and you'll be able to solder anything. Also, don't be afraid of surface mount, people keep making it sound difficult when it really isn't any more difficult than through hole (and don't fall for the thing about needing a teeny tiny tip on your iron, you don't). Frankly I quite often find it easier, especially when fixing mistakes.

@grn1 4 года назад

@@treborrrrr What makes SMT (Surface Mount Technology) harder than IMT (Insertion Mount Technology) is the size. I have big hands and I'm not the most steady (that may improve with practice) so unless I need something to be really small I'd rather work with IMT. As you said a tiny tip isn't necessarily required, back in high school I usually flattened mine to a blade like edge but a standard tip works fine.

@theskett 4 года назад

@@johncoops6897 Thanks, good point. The non-magnetic / ceramic help, too, but the flux gets 'em sticky quick (which drives me a little nuts :-)

@PsiQ 4 года назад

.hmmm. might need some sort of clamping in the corners / sides and one in the middle perhaps to get better contact. IR Light from above for added Speed/better distribution ? (i have quartz ir heater tubes in the bathroom)

@dablakh0l193 4 года назад

A little better way for reflowing solder on a hot plate is to put a 1 inch layer of sand on top of the hot plate then place the pcb on top of the sand once the sand temperature equalizes. That way the parts reflow equally. Another way is to set the hot plate about 60°C less than the solder temperature and use your hot air set to the correct temperature for reflow and with the air volume turned way down. Then just move the air around over the components and they reflow beautifully. Since you got your pcbs from JLCPCB.COM, choose to get the $7 stencil. It will make it much easier to spread the solder paste. I take a poundland cheapo clipboard and a couple of old unused pcbs to make a registry guide around the sides of the new board, then locate the stencil over the holes and tape the stencil along one edge like a hinge. That way I have very simple repeatable way to squeegee the paste over the boards.

@ceefusjenkins2281 4 года назад

You should check out the WLED project by Aircookie (github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki)

@beanst0100 4 года назад

Given all the diffusion suggestions. Wouldn't a lithophane Infront of the LEDs look really neat

@korishan 4 года назад

Perhaps putting some kind of diffusers over the leds so the camera isn't swamped out by the bright spots of the leds and we can see the color change a lot easier. Small pingpong balls or similar work pretty good as diffusers. Also, I would of liked to see the progression of the colors go from same to full random with a time lapse 😉

@jamesthepuerilis 4 года назад

Hi clive, will you share your board files with us please, am currently in lock down and am bored silly, would love to make one, dont mind paying you something towards it

@zaraak323i 4 года назад

I'd suggest using the biggest SMD resistors available because they're easier to hand solder and you're not really limited on space.

@kthwkr 4 года назад

I use a hot plate (actually a large pancake griddle) and heat the PCB up to a temp that is safe for the part for many minutes but is under reflow temperature. I then use a soldering hot air wand to heat each part separately. Since the solder is already nearly up to reflow temp the hot air pushes the temp up and reflow of the target part is nearly instantaneous. This avoids cooking the parts for very long at the reflow temperature.

@dmwtech4495 4 года назад

from what I have seen, you can modify a cheap toaster oven, and make a great reflow oven, problem with your hot plate, there is too much temperature difference from the bottom to the top, it needs to be uniform and controlled, which you cant do with a hot plate open air like you did. just a thought.

@gowdsake7103 4 года назад

What you need is a Fuji CP7 Clive only a few grand second hand but that board placed in about 3 secs

@TradieTrev 4 года назад

Damn! You've over engineered this one Clive, but I give you credit for fixing your stuff up!

@nhytg376tgyuu765gjmg 4 года назад

Yes, agree this was over engineered. I've done these multiple colour changing LED clusters but I didn't use resistors. Instead a fixed voltage of 3 V works well and with a lot less components. These particular LEDs cannot be current controlled anyway since the current through them fluctuate all the time. If one actively current control them, they will not work as intended.

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

It's based on an earlier design that used mixed single colour LEDs with different forward voltages. Using one resistor per LED makes it more versatile.

@nhytg376tgyuu765gjmg 4 года назад

Sorry, but that answer didn't make any sense at all to me. But one thing is good with this design and it is that it disapate the heat evenly across the PCB.

@bgdwiepp 4 года назад

rather than diluting the solder paste with flux, instead warm it up so the flux that is already in it is more liquidous, this makes a massive difference.

@MarkATrombley 4 года назад

You put the resistors in place right to left. Wouldn't left to right make it less likely to move one of those you already placed?

@thecrawlinghand 4 года назад

I did a quick search and found this link to a similar soldering frame for anyone interested gie-tec.de/product/pcb-assembly-and-soldering-frame/?lang=en

@Syntax.error. 4 года назад

Would look much better with a white background for the LEDS.

@someguy2741 4 года назад

I think you would have better results with the cheapie hot air station. Hold the noozle vertical so you dont blow resistors everywhere. Heat them till you can make them dance then move to the next one.

@ianchard 4 года назад

Only today did I realise that it’s ‘Big Clive dot com’ and not ‘Big C Live dot com’.

@KonstantinGrigoriadis 4 года назад

Clive, in case you still want to use the Dispensing method for SMD Reflowing instead the use of Stencils, here a low costs Dispenser that eases the Job(its less messy bcs it retracts after each dispensing so paste stops flowing out), hackaday.io/project/9404-solder-paste-dispenser-v6-air-free-5v-usb-new. I wrote the Firmware and adapted the HW for that thing (for a friend in Slovenia that manufactures & Sells it ).

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

That looks pretty neat.

@Mister_Brown 4 года назад

the pads are way too big for the resistors hence the weird angles they ended up on also a dosing syringe with a pneumatic actuator really makes solder paste application so much better

@chaos.corner 4 года назад

Your pads look a little wide to me. Should work fine but will probably allow your resistors to be a bit out of position.

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

They are. I'm still getting to grips with surface mount.

@chaos.corner 4 года назад

@@bigclivedotcom Does your software use device libraries? I've seen you use it once or twice. I usually use Eagle. I understand there may be some political reasons not to since they got bought but it's what I got started on (post Letraset and resist pen) and it's free now. Actually, a Letraset video might make interesting watching for those who are more used to modern techniques.

@howlingwolven 4 года назад

What you should try next time is get a stencil for the paste. It's a thin stainless steel thing you line up, then you just squeeze the paste onto then squeegee it through onto the pads.

@Geetee60 4 года назад

That would look nice with a white Perspex pane in front to mute and meld the light spots.

@trevorvanbremen4718 4 года назад

I can FEEL your 'pain' having to manually populate all the LEDs... I've been making new LED segments for our dragstrip scoreboards. Each segment contains 56 'ultrabright' 5mm LEDs (arranged as 8 'strings' of 7 LEDs). Each digit uses 7.5 segments (0.5 is for the decimal point). Each display board has 4 digits There are four display boards. Do the math... That equates to 6720 freaking through hole LEDs and 960 associated resistors! (As a 'track volunteer', the labour cost to the track is zero, but it was a long and painful exercise that I am GLAD is over!) Edit: Now that I've watched the end, PLEASE do not send ME one of these... If I have to solder another LED in my LIFE, I will 'Photonic-Induction' the damned thing!!!

@dashcamandy2242 4 года назад

I think what you meant to say is "PLEASE do not send ME one of these... Oi ain't 'avin' it!" I miss Photonic...

@Stoneman06660 4 года назад

I think the through hole resistor idea is mighty fine as it will give you another layer of texture on the front panel.

@JuanJose-tn8yd 4 года назад

With a diffuser would make a nice plasma effect.

@DeputatKaktus 3 года назад

Right. Who else has started blowing on their screen when the fumes started rising?

@chrisleech1565 4 года назад

What if you made your pads a little smaller Clive. Then perhaps surface tension would align more agreeably.

@coctailrob 4 года назад

www.digikey.com/en/pdf/v/vishay/recommended-solder-pad-dimensions

@jumboegg5845 3 года назад

Looked to me that board was getting hotter in the middle because that was the hottest part of the hotplate, where the heater element is.

@1over137 4 года назад

I never found an issue with mess. I also found ways to use the undiluted solder paste. You don't need to be that precise with it, it will flow to the pads even if you plaster it over both.

@1over137 4 года назад

imgur.com/e54ebij this is my work.

@samjones1954 4 года назад

you should have ordered a solder mask. Only a few more bucks over the board.

@Richardincancale 4 года назад

Do he think it was quicker / better / easier using the surface mount resistors than using through-hole? Since you’re visiting every LED anyway doing another couple of dabs with the iron...?

@bigclivedotcom 4 года назад

It was just experimental.

@ZeedijkMike 4 года назад

I have used JLC for a few projects and I have always been satisfied with the result. They always put their production numbers in a very discrete spot. Sometimes even under a component so it's hidden when populated.

@DaedalusYoung 4 года назад

I've paid extra to have the number removed, and on my latest order, I've specified the location myself, so you can choose where you want them to print it. I've seen them print it on the copper layer as well, so it's not as visible as when they print it on the silkscreen.

@steverpcb 4 года назад

If you panel the pcb with a boarder then they put the number on there :)