sweet, i have the same forge. i made the mistake of not getting the blanket joint tight, so i have a little triangle gap at the bottom. thought having a thicker satanite floor and the fire brick would be fine, but lo and behold, there's a linear crack. gonna have to chip out a couple inches of the bottom,shove a kaowoll strip in to fill that gap (after rigidizing). i also had a lot of cracking from putting too thick a coat, so lots of thin coats worked best for me with this shape of forge. but all in all, satanite for the win with this forge. my best advice, soak the chit ouda the blanket, dry and cure it right first, then thin coats of satanite until you get at least 3/8" for the upper 2/3's of the forge and a good half inch for the bottom with at least a 2 inch taper for best floor and least cracking potential. then all you have to worry about is the ends cracking around the metal ring. hasn't been a problem for me, i just squirt more rigidizer in the crack at the transition from time to time just in case.
Since I live in Mexico, my best option for making a forge is a lime-fiberglass mixture featuring a bit of cat litter for extra adhesion. At least it lasted me longer than pumicecrete. Pumice despite being a decent insulator, will melt and slag.
B & B Forge It'll be great. It sat with the space heater aimed into it for something like 8 or 9 hours after the last coat was packed in there. I figure after a couple of days a low heat to test it should be plenty and then I'm getting a piece of steel in it.
The wool stays in the shape of the forge once you unroll it inside the forge. Then it stays put. The refractory is there to keep fibers from flying off the ceramic wool and going in your lungs.
@@drstrangefart my forge has a size of a big box so I need a way to glue ceramic wool to the sides somehow. it will not just stay in place by itself. also I need a way to glue it on the lid part of the forge. my forge is 100x50cm and 100cm tall. the iron I wanna work with will be on the bottom, but I made it taller so the top part doesn't get too hot. how should I position air intake - blower, when I wanna use coal as a fuel?
Try holding everything in place with wire and spraying a HEAVY coat of rigidizer on it. That in theory should get it stiffened up enough that you can apply refractory. Your only other option is to weld some small pins to the inside of the forge to hold it up.
@@drstrangefart I will probably weld some nails from the inside and attach ceramic wool to them. how should I position air intake? should I make grate? I think the air flow will be the most important part to get high temperatures. I need around 1200 C to be able to work with iron.
Rigidizer only stiffens the sheet of kaowool a bit. It does NOTHING to stop the ceramic fibers from being blown out of the forge into the air. The refractory is there to keep those fibers from being blown out. You do NOT want to be breathing those fibers unless you're a huge fan of mesothelioma.
Nope. If refeactory wasn't absolutely necessary to working safely, no one would bother. It would be WAAAAAAY easier to just slap new kaowool in and spray it every so often than dealing wirh refractory on every relining of the forge.
Did you use ridgidizer first or satanite straight over the wool? Looks like "thinset" concrete patch/leveler. Thanks for the vid, look straight forward.
Eric Gordon Yeah, I've figured out that refractory is a temporary thing. It seems with legitimately heavy use you can get a year, maybe two out of a solid layer of refractory. This won't see very heavy use so I'd guess two years would be a very conservative estimate.
It was rigidized befire it shipped to me. If you're starting with fresh kaowool, a spray-on rigidizer should take care of your prep before applying refractory.
Nice video. How much time to do first coat? Then....how long do you wait to coat again? And does the second coat go on quicker than the first? Thanks for your time
The first coat I left alone for a few hours with the space heater blowing into the forge. The coats after the first one go faster but you're still gonna want to let it sit for 2 or 3 days after the last coat to fully dry and cure.
@@drstrangefart ok so do a coat and wait a few hours, do another and wait a few hours and repeat until you've happy and then let sit a few days? Just want to be clear
Pretty much. You want ZERO moisture in that stuff. First time you fire the forge up after a few days of curing run it on very low heat for 30-40 minutes.
Well I'll tell you this much. It appears to go on much easier than the mizzou did on mine. The mizzou is very thick and lumpy and hard to spread. By the way friend of Bill W. you got a brother here. One day at a time!
Jim Patterson One day at a time! Friend of Jimmy K for 8 years and counting. Next time you try mizzou, maybe take a crack at shaking it up. I know shat vigorous agitation made it a lot smoother a lot faster than trying to mix in the bucket did.
