Hi, nice video! I have a question: is it normal that the left rocker arm shaft is turning a bit left and right while the engine is running? (When you look at the engine from the right side you can see two round shafts on the outside of the cover, the left one moves, the right one stays still ). I have a tt600re, which has the same kind of engine. I hope you can help, I noticed it and fine it a bit strange, when I look at the scematics I see that the forward one is locked with two bolts...
LOL the beast of tree valley :-D :-D. I think the beast has overdone that diet :). Smashing job on the engine, you will trust it now you have assembled it yourself :-) i Like the diy torque wrench, 1 litre of water = 1 kilogram, the stick is the magnifier. Its the way i would check a torque wrench, but i would use feet and pounds. Im a bit odd that way, im stuck between two measurement systems, so i use whatever is the ideal one, at the time. Spanners in metric, no daft fractions. length in metric or imperial, sometimes one lines up to whole values. Speed in miles per hour, kilometers i just cant visualise. Tea in a mug with hot water LOL, who cares about the measure :-D.
Hahaha the beast ! It was a deadly diet,i don't know why there are always few of those crazy beasts in those places... Yes,i can trust if it blow up it will be our fault lol I can't even understand how you do to divide things in Imperial ,too much work for me ! Me it's a chocolate,with some good bread (baguette) lol
: ) No need,good compression good combustion,no abnormal wear for the engine. It would be a waste of money and useless wear on the cylinder ,the new rings would match temselves with the actual geometry of the cylinder,wich is not perfect,because used,so they would wear it where it's already good with the stock ones,or even cause oil dilution by gas or blowby,so cause even more wear the time all parts are broken in. The most clever thing would be to change the spring of the oil ring only,but i didn't think of that,and i don't even know if they sell it alone.
Great series, i have a MT-03 2007 and looking through this process comparing it to the schematics i found online - the engine seems very similar if not identical. Very interesting and educational, really helped me grasp how a motorbike operates and how it's built, i might give it a try on my bike as well if i gather the courage in the future :D
I am not sure, maybe there is nothing wrong with it. Here are some things i noticed tho. Recently when i changed the oil i noticed a slight gasoline smell in it, the oil had driven 5000 km, the oil level was not risen tho, so i guess it is normal? Maybe the piston rings are not keeping sealed enough the combustion chamber and some gasses pass in the sump? On the end of my muffler i notice black spots, i dunno what they are maybe oil? So again maybe piston rings do not seal the oil very good and some of it gets burned in the cylinder. There are no sings of smoke when the engine operates tho. Engine wise i get a strange sound when i am at higher gear and slightly not at the right RPM and speed, when i apply the throttle i hear a sort of a ticking sound, hard to explain.
Check the spark plugs color to see if you are running a bit rich or not. (it's an accurate clue of the global condition) It should be tan colored ,like a cappuccino. www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm If an injector is leaking a bit once you stopped the engine,it can dump a bit of gas in the intake,and it will go in the oil. You should hear the fuel pump repressurising the fuel lines each time you start,or even experience a long time crancking to start it. (time necessary to get fuel pressure back) If rings were loose ,you would have smoke,the catalyst converter would suffer of it. You would also have a lot of oil deposits in the intake,so you could check it by removing the airfilter. You would have blowby exiting from the oil cap,engine running. Ticking sound can be detonation,under load,like you describe. It's generally occuring when the engine is running lean,or even when the combustion chamber is coated with oil deposits,wich harden and glow during the powertroke,cause pre ignition spots. But i can't see the bike ,so it's just ideas.
michaelovitch i think the plug is similar to the "carbon fouled" image, gotta dismantle it again to double check. Also there was quite a bit of oil in the air outlet as well.
If the engine is stock,not modified at all,you should check the air filter,and the catalyst converter ,to see if they are not clogged. Also,like i said,injectors are maybe dirty and leaking a bit. Having a bad coolant temperature sensor can do that too,the computer will enrichen the mixture having incorrect values from the sensor.
That was a very good result , for almost not spending a single euro :P . Good job on the finished product! Can you please tell me how you found the torque specification for the head bolts ?? Because i have been searching for a repair manual like crazy and i cant seem to find anything !!
Both are really similar even if not the same model years : i don't even think the torque wrench is able to be that accurate,so you can use both manuals,i've compared the two regarding torque values. fr.scribd.com/doc/22585709/1990-Yamaha-XT600-E-Factory-Service-Manual fr.scribd.com/document/251610974/YAMAHA-XT600Z-86-a-90-XT600E-90-a-92
I had no torque wrench with the correct range available. I bought one since,but a torque wrench is just to do what we did : reproduce a weight on a specific length lever to tighten stuff lol
