Dry ice can be bought in quite a few palaces, it can be a bit of money. Something to try in the future is add rock salt to your water bath. Its the way ice cream was made long before reliable refrigeration. Get a larger vessel, add more ice and a big scoop of the cheapest rock salt used for deicing roads and driveways. The rock salt will effectively make the ice melt faster and get the water bath to lower than the temperature of the ice alone. Interesting concept, thanks for sharing. Look forward to follow ups if you try this again.
Cool vid..lol...this comment is for the hvac guys who might sneak in here... this wont work on a household system! Theoretically you could have dozens of evacuated cylinders😂.. but they cost money. Buy or rent a recovery machine..its not that hard and our kids are depending on us to do the right thing... Most auto part stores will loan it for free ... with collateral ofc.. thanks for showing! It wont work
I didn't tell you this but you can push 99% out with the car A/C compressor hot wire the A/C clutch start the car and open the high side and pump it down into a recovery bottle. I have a Inficon Vortex recovery machine so I don't do it but it can be done.
Stupid question. If you are replacing the compressor anyway, can you run the system to pump the remainder of the refrigerant out the high side into the tank.? You might have to jump the compressor clutch to keep it on for a few seconds until the system empties.
@@joeysantillo8977It sounds feasible. The high side will have higher pressure and push freon toward the tank. As you mentioned, the compressor will need to be jumped to bypass the cutoff switch. It will not be "good" for the compressor of course, but even if you're replacing it, you don't want to risk having it seize up and contaminate the system, which in itself opens a whole other set of problems.
@Bizija123 Honestly the chances of messing up the compressor in that scenario are pretty low. If the vehicle is at an idle, and you run the compressor until the gauges quit lowering, there will still be residual oil in the compressor keeping it lubricated. Same concept when draining trans fluid without a drain plug. Unhook a cooler line, idle the engine until fluid quits coming out, then immediately shut it off. Doesn't hurt the pump or starve it long enough to do any damage.
Assuming that the car has a working compressor what if you bypass the pressure switch and let the compressor pressure up the high side until the negative numbers are reached on the low side which should get you the rest of the freon pretty much
134a isnt that pricey, also pull from the liquid that way you get liquid volume not just vapor pressure. I also used to charge small refrigeration units through the liquid side before powering them up, then finish by vapor. If you are having problems with the system your refrigerant may be contaminated. Any oil pulled would be added back if you reused the refrigerant. hope this helps
@@rusty81588 I tried from both low side and high side however once the tank equalizes in pressure with the car's system, it no longer pulled in any refrigerant. It appears that dry ice is needed to REALLY get the tank cold and lower the pressure enough to pull the freon in more. Someone also suggested having a second vacuumed tank to pull the rest in, but that is extra expense.
