Another trick to see if these leak byif you are returning, is to place a balloon over the outlet side. If it seeps out when it gets warm, you’ll see it. If your concerned if it’s only warmed air in the balloon, before you remove it start up your leak detector and sniff the balloon contents.
By the way, I was told many years ago, the relief valves are not to protect the system, but required by code for all pressure vessels to protect Firefighters.
Every time I see a PRV I'm reminded of a time I was working on a rack in a supermarket motor room and an electrician cut the power to the condenser fans, the prv's blew and suddenly I could not see or breathe. I was feeling my way to the door light headed and not really knowing what happened... Someone had set the high pressure controls to 500 psi cut-out. Lost about 400 lbs of r-502 as well.
@@rookierefrigeration4357 A few years later it happened again, a coworker was replacing a SORIT valve, he closed the liquid line and suction line ball valves but not the hot gas defrost ball valve and the circuit went into defrost... Be careful out there guys.
Really... now you might want to say to yourself, why was the compressor operational? There is no way for that to happen if all the fans were dead on a system not jumped out everywhere. The compressors shouldn’t have been running if the fans were not powered, they are fed with the same control line as the compressor contactor. And most of the time, the same contactor feeds the compressor. Then you might want to ask yourself,” why didn’t my high pressure safeties open?” You have bigger problems than a sparky taking out a fan.
on our old 502 systems the high pressure cut out was set at 325 psi.used 400 psi relief valves.the system should shut down on high pressure control before any relief valve blows
Loctite 554 is made for refrigerant. That is the red sealant on the old relief valves. Also I keep the plug in on the exhaust side of the relief. If the plug blows out u know where ur leak is
Great stuff, by experience thoses relief valves always leak even if they reset themselves and you don't loose all the refrigerant. I use teflon tape and a little bit of leak lock but if the company gives me the premium stuff, the Loctite for freon is IMO the best product you can use there. Never had a leak with that stuff ! What happened to your previous Stratus ?
Its been a while since I have used the h10 but if I remember correctly when you block air flow to the sniffer it gives a false alarm. I noticed that before replacing the pressure relief valves and using the h10 there was no room for the sniffer to " breathe " . After the replacement and using the h10 there was a small tilt between the valves and the sniffer allowing it to breathe and not causing a false hit. Like I said its been a while since ive used it . Something to think about . I could be wrong
Those two dislikes are probably from keyboard engineers that asked why you didn't pull a vacuum on those fittings and why you didn't use the elbow torque tick tool 🤭🤭
Curious you mentioned you have returned your stratus under warranty. Can you elaborate please? I’m questioning my stratus too and a bit disappointed especially after dropping the large coin. My infinicon has been awesome so was hopeful the stratus would be better yet. What was your “warranty issue”?
Rick Weidenfeller I noticed that at first the Stratus was !100%!! Amazing. Found everything under the sun. Loved it. After about 3 months of using it exclusively I started noticing I wasn’t finding as many leaks. So 1 day I busted out the H10 and ran them both. Boy was I surprised. Also when it was new it competed with the H10 great. H10 always had a sensitivity advantage but the Stratus is great at pinpointing leaks when you’re in a saturated environment. So I contacted Inficon and they exchanged it no questions.
I have the same issue with the meuller PRVs not being in stock at my wholesaler. However I was told that the superior valves have a lower flow rate and aren’t technically supposed to replace the meuller valves. In Canada anyways. Great video
Might have got some oil in the leak that is stopping it for the moment. Have heard it can happen for some REALLY small leaks. But some detectors are just a little better than others.
The breakaway torque for Loctite 565 (if it was that) will decrease with temperature rise. I know from first hand experience that a few seconds of propane burner flame on the joint will make the difference. Thank you for posting.
Just a question when applying the taflon tape do u wrap it in the same direction u are tightening?.with regards to the service valves that the relief valve was attached,i dont see u loosen the gland when front seating or backseating .
1. I wrap the Teflon so the direction of the threads are the same. When you tighten it the tape won’t fall off. 2. You’re supposed to loosen it a bit. But. 🤷♂️
Thanks for the video! Find a tube of Loctite 565... it’s good for 10,000 psi. Just keep it off the first two threads.. 👍. Stick with the H10, you have to trust your tools!
Loctite 554 was the standard for refrigerant threads, but it’s tough to get the connections apart after it sets... Loctite 565 and 567 work well because they are PTFE Sealants. This is for threaded connections only, not flare connections.. There is also Leak Lock by Loctite. The biggest problem with using sealants on anything in a refrigeration/AC System is being messy about it, which is why you don’t put it on the first two threads. Use whatever you are comfortable with.. I hope this answers your question. Best Regards.
Go back and look at the footage of how tight you did the first one from the second one. On the first one you had a few threads visible, on the “fix” with Teflon tape and nylon, you buried the threads all the way down,.....tighter. On these I, like Jim P, use Leak-Loc. Never had a leak with that stuff. The only caution with it is to not seal he first two threads. As with any thread sealant.
@@rookierefrigeration4357 like what I have seen in the past if a low level finds a leak they will front seat it and with the double your safe back seated or front seated
It also helps when they need to be replaced. No need to recover. With large industrial systems, and especially with ammonia, it’s very common to have manifolds that allow relief valve replacement without line breaking or opening up the system.
@@rookierefrigeration4357 The three way valve should be seated to one port or the other. The three way valve is there to do exactly what you did change one at at time with out having to pump the system out. But the relief valve capacity for the vessel is designed for one. Mid seating the three way valve is discourage practice. The vessel according to ASME, ASHRAE requires to have only one relief valve, or a soft plug. I am in the industrial ammonia refrigeration and we are required to replace them every 5 years.
Dude, one day after watching and commenting on this video, I found a sick pisser out of a 3-way manifold valve stem for the relief valves on a Hussmann rack with Bitzer screws... Has a low level alarm, so I guess I’m gon’ hafta charge ‘er! I wish I could send you the video... Got an email RookRefer? I’ll send it to you
