@@DXCommanderHQ I agree sir; one reason I love your content. I have watched a dozen or more people demonstrate how to put on power poles and they never have any trouble at all, just snip, clip, zip, and they're done. That never happened for me until I had done about 50 of them, and had figured out how I had to do them. But until then, between the snip and the zip there were a LOT of four letter words and curses on the mothers of those YT video creators. Based on your recommendation I am certainly going to try the M&P connectors. Please keep giving us this terrific and valuable content. (Hey, RU-vid...are you listening?)
This is the win. Flux paste is cheap. Those cold joints or fragile solder blobs are a PITA. Sometimes you can't put enough heat on without buggering something else up: additional flux helps marvelously with flow and "wetting". 👍
Another bonus of paste flux on wire going into a pin, especially if it's a close fit - the flux will act like grease holding the wires together while you put it together
I would certainly recommend one of those third-hand gizmos or carefully use a small bench vise while soldering. Makes the soldering portion sooooo much easier. 73, Bob WK2Y
I suspect (no guarantee) that you should apply the iron on the opposite side to the hole, testing at the hole with the end of the solder, until it melts. Then the entire tube will be at/above soldering temperature. The inner pin will also be being heated, and when things are hot enough, the solder will wick in through the hole. (Pre tinning should not be necessary, though liquid flux can help.) Now remove the solder, then the iron, without rattling the connector. If you apply the iron at/near the hole, then, yes, the solder will melt, but lots of the nested pin/tube won't be hot enough to take solder, and you'll just be soldering near the hole, you'll remove the iron too soon, and solder won't get around very far between the pieces, and that stuff will suck heat from the hot part too fast, so you get rapid cooling that isn't uniform, which may cause the solder to crack inside, leading to a weak and resistive joint, especially when considering skin effect. Says the guy with zero practical experience with these connectors.
You really need to heat the part with the iron then add solder to the hole or anything else your trying to solder. When solder melts so does the flux which is absolutely needed to make a proper solder connection. Dabbing it on the iron and transferring to the part may stick it together but will NOT be a good "wetted" connection.
Absolutely! You need to bring all three items together simultaneously...the item to be soldered, the solder and the iron. You should NEVER carry solder on the iron across to the joint, because the flux will burn off on the iron and you'll be making a joint without any flux and that will mean that it won't be tinned properly and you'll get a bad joint that will probably fail and go high resistance in time. BTW, I am a fully qualified and radio, TV and electronics engineer and we were taught at college back in the day how to do it properly.
He wants a better soldering iron too. Some sort of chisel tip on an iron that doesn't go cold the moment you try an solder more than a 1/4W resistor makes the job a 5 second process.
I used to live two miles away from an Amphenol plant. You could walk into the front office off the street and buy connectors by the truckload if you wanted. And they were dirt cheap. Even the silver plated PL259's with the Teflon center insulators were not that pricey. Ah, the good ole days....
For a good joint; definitely use a good flux which will help the solder run through the pin (don't forget to clean it off with alchol on completion) Don't freehand ! use a clamp, any movement as the solder sets can lead to a poor/dry joint. Aim for a shiny silver looking finish (not a dull grey) Let the joint cool naturally, don't blow on it, don't wet your fingers and pinch to get that sizzle sound ! but most important dont move the joint as it sets !
Flux & pretin the very end b4 even cutting insulation 😉then flux the pin b4 installing on Cntr conductor. Flux is your friend when soldering, it helps transfer the heat from iron to wire& pin 😉😉see if you can locate amtec 559 low viscosity flux. That stuff is better then Franks red hot sauce, it’s tacky but cleans easy with alcohol but it’s not necessary to clean unless it’s on pc board
The M&P PL259s are excelent and the old ones rather Wank, to say the least. I would use liguid flux for the center cable, the finest solder you can get and a small clamp or vice to hold it. I use silicone grease on the braid it totally prevents water ingress and oxidation of the copper cable. If you are felling heroic try doing the same with silver solder, technically superior but an absolute mare to work with. I used to use it a lot but it is really hard work, it does not flow well.
@@DXCommanderHQ Hi Callum. Yes definitely you need to use a flux which will tremendously facilitate the soldering process. We also offer for those who make just a few soldering in a row a tiny 2 cc M&P-Flux, that will make everything a lot easier (following our advice and related video).. I want to send you some of those for your earliest convenience.
We need to have a whip round for Callum and get him a couple of decent spanners! Nice vid. I much prefer this type of PL259. So much better than the old style type. Thanks, Mike.
Cal as of yesterday I've finally replaced all my long feeders and patch leads with M&P coax, a mix of Hyperflex and Ultraflex and the new Evolution plugs. So I've got fitting their plugs sorted, remove the pin from the last plastic ring Hold the coax in a small bench vice, a drop from the flux pen on the core wire, slip the pin on (hole at top) heat from below and feed 0.8mm solder into the hole,,,job done. Yes you do need a clean cut and don't tin the inner or it wont slip into the pin
These are the best plugs by far, I’ve now bought loads of them for my shack. If finding the soldering hole too small (as sometimes they do vary in size) I use a tiny drill bit on a dremmel and just make the hole a little bit bigger. Like you I wear glasses when doing close work/reading so find the hole just a little too small. At the end of the day this is something that could be put right at M&P quite easily but until they put a slightly bigger drill bit in their machine then I guess it’s down to us. Nice explanation Callum, keep up the good work and if my shacks back together by the 13th I’ll listen out and give you a call. 73 de MW6PNW. Paul
I have been told about the small hole complaints and frankly speaking the aimed use of the flux is something that has solved the task perfectly. Just imagine in our lab how much soldering we do daily! In any case, I have asked to bring the dimension of the hole to the same size as the "N" connector's pin. You must be really a skilled man to use a tiny drill bit to enlarge the tiny hole. The Hams always succeed in impressing me with their passion and creativity.
The last batch of M&P PL259's I received from Martin Lynch were like the normal PL259 where the centre conductor passes through the pin and easier to solder at the tip as normal. Love M&P coax and connectors.
Thanks John! Have you bought the connectors for Hyperflex 5 or Airborne 5 perhaps? Just the connectors for those two cables (in the range of 5.0 to 5.4 mm), have the old-fashioned "through pin". All the rest of UHF ones has turned into EVO with the rounded pin. Please let me know...
@@johnharrison5703 Thanks for the prompt reply John. They must have been an old batch of the previous ones. (regular packaging and Connector M&P engraving right)? Just take some practice and you shall see it's easier and cleaner than before. Callum did it all right, save not using the M&P-Flux, or other Quality Flux products.
Yes you are right, but after 80 years , technology has moved forward also in this field.... with a lot of improvements UHF Evo presentation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TXRWVo16YAo.html M&P Flux presentation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sNXwwCOZrZg.html Silicon Seal Presentation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hiPZr653W2A.html
Nowadays dealing with XYL has never been so easy: (me holding pizza) you have italian shoes I want to have something Italian too. She agrees then the doorbell interrupts the conversation. it was a delivery from M&P.
hello Callum, i also tin the center wire, but i found drilling out the very small contact hole by another 1.1 mm give you a better attach for the solder, these connectors are very good for ultraflex 7, , you can heat up the brass connectors and shake off any excess solder if you don't get a real connection first time. I'm a retired heat eng so i love to solder hi hi, well done on a good video honestly done.. GW4
Never blow on your solder connectors to cool them faster after soldering them. It's a bad idea!!! Otherwise this is quite informative. Overall it's a 9.5!!!
Great Video! They're superb connectors. Callum, one suggestion, have a go at heating the tube sid. Place the plug inverted in a small vice try to place something in the vice so the steel does not steal the heat away. Some teflon or fibreglass pads or even some resin cloth. Heat the tube and fill it with solder (not fill but get some in there) leave the wire untinned. Put flux on the wire side which wont affect is diameter. Heat the tube from the outside and slip the wire into the tube whilst the solder is boiling. No need to use that little hole to fill them. It will be a good solid permanent connection. Sorry if someone has already said this. Adam VK2PW
Hi Callum brilliant video I am glad it's not just me that struggles sometimes with simple things. I put my sister to rest today then watching your video has made me smile.
@@DXCommanderHQ Thanks Callum I work in a church so mixed feelings privileged to be able to do all the work and place her in her final resting place. But very emotional yesterday. Then I watched your video massive distraction that was. A giggle and a smile.
Tin both parts, the pin and centre core then heat the centre pin and push together. Then use some pliers on the centre pin to cool it so it doesn't fall of as it is still hot. I do this on N types but not so much on the pl259 compression fittings. Cheers VK3DJC
Using a flux pen with liquid flux will make your soldering much easier. They come in a marker style pen and you just dab it on where you want it. Highly recommend it.
I have done rather a lot of these so far and they are so entertainging to fit, as is watching Cal do it, go Cal go. But oh so satisfying afterwared, and always, always test it all afterwards with a mutlitmeter for continuity and shorts from center to braid. Oh and for me always use silicone grease, it all goes together so much easier.
At 11:50 I think the phrase rhymes with "clucking bell". I love these connectors - what I have also done is "pre-fill" the copper tip with solder - then reheat (melt) it again and shove in the centre - but then I only use one pair of glasses - so maybe that is a rubbish idea.
No substitute for quality connectors no matter which assembly style you like. I go for soldered center pins and crimped shield connections myself, but then I'm also mostly BNCs at this point.
if your aim was to show how easy assembly is I think you missed the mark Mate! A solder center conductor/crimp shield PL259 with the right tools and glue lined heat shrink is pretty fool proof and besides I don't have a pair of those special joint pliers! cheers Mike, K1FNX near Boston
@@DXCommanderHQ we actually have 16mm spanners here in the Colonies........we call them wrenches (not wenches) if you would like one let me know..........cheers Mike, K1FNX near Boston
Those M&P plugs are lovely. I took a gas iron to a campsite and fitted a couple whilst portable. If I can do it under canvass, anybody can do it in a workshop... I did actually cock it up the BNC plug and had to redo it when I got home :D
Clamp the cable in something like a vise or "third hand" to free up your hands to heat the connection while you add solder to that connection at the HOLE.
I have installed a plethora of the old type and the new M&P connectors. Personally, I use a small vise (Dremel owned for over 30years). Makes everything stable and I can use both hands. My vise comes out on field days as well, as it’s very portable and sturdy. Stay safe my friend 73 Andre
Since you asked, the only suggestion I'd have is to not pre-tin the coax inner, then get a good bit of flux in the hole, and use LOADS of heat from the iron. As much as you can. Quicker you get the job done, less chance of melting the plastic bits on the connector.
I've fitted a standard pl259 on the end of my 10mm messi cable, and my swr as flat 1/1 all through 2mtr band, and output gone up by 2bars to my regular stations. M7HIJ
I prefer the old style over this. I did just try some of the new ones that were designed by DX Engineering (for LMR400). You need a crimper for the shield, the tip is soldered. Not bad. Better than the way the old ones kind of screwed on. Always thought that deformed the dielectric too much for my tastes. Interesting connector you have there. Too many parts for me. Spent many years as a communications tech. The more parts to a connector, the more of a pain it'll be to install and conversely, often it's a better connector. So while these may be a pain in the ass, they're probably decent connectors. :)
139 comments how to do it better, so why not add another one ;) Cal you need to get a better soldering iron, or at least a nice fat 3, 4, 5mm chisel tip. That allows you to turn down the heat a bit, which helps with the flux not instantly evaporating before it had a chance to do it's magic. An extra flux-pen or some flux goo that you apply before putting the pin on top of the center conductor will also help. You can then heat the pin from the bottom, wait a few seconds and then apply the solder on top, to the hole, which gets sucked in immediately. And don't ask me how many BNC connectors I have ruined despite knowing this. I usually end up with too much solder on the outside and then the bloody outer shell does no longer go over the pin which has a bit of a solder blob at the bottom. P.S.: If you do not go for gold-standard connectors, I find the cheap 90° PL-259 connectors e.g. for Aircell-5 or RG58 much much easier to assemble. You see exactly what happens with the center conductor and then just screw in the lid and have confidence that the connection is good.
tip for you Cal on soldering the M&P plugs, a aldi/lidl desk vice to hold the cable, and a fine point soldering iron works wonders with the M&P evolution plugs, i have soldered a dozen on in my setup with my Ultraflex 10 2 S points better on RX , no more pl259s for me :) bonus tip with the evolution plugs and the vice holding the cable at a slight downward (very slight)angle no need to tin the inner ,just push the centre on line up the hole uppermost and use the fine tip soldering iron/solder and it will run ok, and yes the hole is bloody small :)
I like these new connectors. I can’t bear soldering the old style. Have gone to crimp ends lately but these waterproof ends look much better. I could literally feel your pain when the solder didn’t take. 73 from FN84.
I always tin but I’m on the old type PL259’s. Just makes it easier. Wow at the size of the adjustable. I say if it works use any tool you have to hand. 73 🤙🤙🤙
did you know, by the way, that the thing you call the adjustable spanner is called Engländer in Germany. That translates to englishman :D And about soldering/ tinning: i think it's useful to tin the wire, then put tin into the center conductor of the plug (held vertical upwards by a small vise) and then push in the wire from the top while keeping all nice warm with the soldering iron.
It takes a great man to be humble and a brave man to share it with the world. You are VERY great and VERY brave… but darn… your soldering priviledges need to be put into rehabilitation counseling… These connectors are wonderful but try using a better iron, clamp or have someone hold your work, flux and pre-tin and then the final solder will just fill in the space and have a great grip. Let rosin core solder melt onto the item being soldered. The little dollop on the iron should only be there to increase heat transfer, not apply solder. Practice on items cheaper than those connectors… 😳 Love your channel!
"rehabilitation counseling" HAHAHA! Yes, I know it was a total cock-up, which is why I published. The sort of thing a regular "Joe" might do.. Now he can learn from me!
Thanks for your comment. Glad that so many people share their own experience, and like Callum's work... In our RU-vid channel there is a Video assembly for each one of our cables matched to each one of our connectors. Another way to share experience...
Crimp-on connectors are much cheaper, easier to install (especially in the field,) very rugged, and don't require any soldering...I still usually solder the center conductor.
Very similar to N--types as you mentioned, FWIW it is worth using very small gauge solder, and if you have a block of wood or similar to push the centre pin against. excess solder can be scraped off with something like a Stanley knife blade. I dread to think how many N-types I have fitted over the years, but the first one in every session is always fiddly. pedantically you should not blow on a solder joint, though we have all done it. Good demo though, they really are nothing to be scared of.
I've found the center lug of these connectors to be a slightly loose fit if used with 239's that see regular use with other connectors. If you use these connectors, avoid the use of any others. I stopped using them for this reason. Just my experience
So good to see someone so advanced have some frustration getting stuff to work... As a new guy I am frequently frustrated trying to get information from the various blogs/youtube vids etc. and then trying to do it myself. I am so on my own....
What they said about soldering 👍. But also use a mini vice / third hand or some such to hold the cable firmly. Then it doesn’t flop about all over the place and you can use both hands to control the soldering iron and feed the solder. It will make the job so much easier.
as bill freeman says heat opposite the hole as soon as the correct temp is reached the solder will flow into the hole and soak the wire core. if you are not getting this to happen use a higher power iron i only use m&p connectors now an have done a dozen or so and i use A 25W iron perfect result evert time.
Great vid, I am glad I am not the only one stuffing up adding solder to the middle pin, which I would have to say would be the only flaw.. So far I have just tinned the center and seems to work for me..
use a flux pen on wire, (not as messy as paste unless you are doing a lot). Fix cable in place on desk by heavy pliers or other weight to give both hands free if you dont have mini vice. Assemble, then hot iron under pin and feed solder to hole on top. Works for me.
Callum, when you put the part on to be soldered, why couldn't you take your cutters and crimp the end of it so it would stay in place before you soldered?
Glad it’s not just me that gets frustrated fitting compression type PL259’s 😂🤣😂 It is worth the effort though. Why would anyone spend decent money on coax then fit cheap connectors? All the best Callum. 73 Chris M0RSF,
As an aviation electronics technician, I can tell you that I tin every connector and pin that requires soldering. Even if I don't need to. Because everybody knows that solder is better.
Thanks for introducing these (at least to me)! Fed up with the old-style PL-259, I've gone entirely to SMA - odd as that may sound. But I may revisit this down the road thanks to what you've demonstrated today.
I just replaced my HF base station coax with M&P hyperflex 13. Yes, I know that is overkill, but ok. The process has made me become an M&P fan for sure!! The connectors and the coax are next level. Here are a couple of my tips and findings. The M&P scissors are worth the money. Speaking of the M&P scissors....um holy bleep they are sharp. I ran around with them in the backyard for hours to test them.... conclusion ...very pointy. Great idea using the razor vs the scissors for the inner insulator. makes for a much cleaner connection. Tinning is not required and not recommended by messi. I thought about it (seems logical) but differed to messi's experience over mine. Messi says on the hyperflex 13 instruction video - "If you prefer you can avoid to solder, tightening the core thanks to its flexible fins' I believe messi is saying soldering is not required but recommended?? The core I assume is the connector housing that screws on and the flexible pin is the gold center pin (with solder hole). So the housing will hold it in place and remain flexible. I emailed messi for clarification. Also, the core material the pin mount too is better a little short than too long. too long can result in poor performance and is indicated by the center pin not resting against the plastic washer/insulator. Great video!! Thanks again.
Yet another great video! Thanks for your input. I am in process of putting my shack together (have to wait for the budget to catch up). Based on your recommendation I got some of the M&P connectors and will be using the Ultraflex 10 for my UHF/VHF antenna run (DX Engineering DX 400Max for everything else). My Dad taught me to solder, he always used "No corrode" brand of paste flux to help the solder flow more easily. He would always remind me that heat rises and would have me use something to hold the coax, apply the flux, and place the soldering iron UNDER the wire and apply the solder to the top. When the wire comes up to the proper temperature it will be more evenly heated and the solder will flow more evenly, giving a better connection. The other thing he would tell me is that I can take the time to set up and do it right, or I can take the time to do it twice, or maybe even three times. Sometimes I'd hate it when he was right!
Flux has been mentioned but you can just tin the centre core tip before inserting into the body. Then it's very easy to solder. Also when soldering have the tip on a slant towards the floor so the solder doesn't run up the tip too much. Love the M&P gear. Best connectors and leading quality coax.
I have done the PL 259 dance here as well. I have gone from one that requires multiple solder joint to a crimp on with one point of solder. I have almost completely resolved dead shorts with this connector type. Great video with great insights. 73
@@DXCommanderHQit has been said that the day you learn something new... after knowing everything ... that is when you education truly begins. You always provide great info... I always go back to you videos and videos of a couple of others when I am struggling with something Ham related. Blessings to you and your family. 73
I find myself wanting to reach into the laptop screen to steady some bits or hold the cable steady. It was like I'm sucking my teeth and thinking "steady old man" you'll get it." Bad news for you Callum, it doesn't get better with age! I find myself using the little two-arm alligator-clip "soldering aid" device and (lol moment) slipping the "coke bottle" lens magnifying specs on -- but not over graduated focus specs -- that just wouldn't work. So regular specs off, magnifiers on, then trying to find the regular specs, looking everywhere -- only to find then atop the noggin. Otherwise, very good demo and obviously superior connection method. I must look for the Canadian source for both cable and connectors. TNX & 73
This was like watching an engineer change a light bulb...trying to turn the room around. Always...always stabilize the wires your soldering. Use left and right hand to hold the iron and solder. Hold the iron on one side of the bond and the solder on the other side of the bond...let the solder flow toward the heat of the iron. ;)
Have you experimented with not soldering the braid on the traditional solder pl259 connectors? I met a ham operator who doesn’t solder the braid only the tip. He folds back the braid very neatly then threads the connector over it. Says he’s never had any issues.. has me very curious.
I have an catalog of M&P (2018th edition). On page 40 there are the different types of connectors. The CO.UHF.7M-S needs 17mm (0,699") cut of. The 10mm cut off is valid for N-Type connector CO.N.7M-s. Using 17mm makes is a lot easier to solder the connector because the pin has a longer part to fit on. For CO.UHF.10M-S (also usable for RG 213/U) it is 20mm. For your soldering iron the best temperature should be between 400°C and 420°C (or 300°C..350°C for professional temperature controlled soldering stations).
I have spent HOURS getting this right. In many cases I end up getting a connectivity of around 1 mega Ohm between center and shield. An unable to understand why, as even a single strand of copper shortening will give much lower resistance. But - made one cable work fine today
I'm only 6:57 in but thanks for this -- I wouldn't have otherwise gone on to see that I've been doing BNC clamp-styles quite wrongly. They still work of course, so there's that ;) but now that I know that, I'm wondering if they could work better... I had never gotten any instructions nor been shown, so I guessed (if only there were some way I could reach out to query the universe for how to do things....) I figured the rubber "grommet" was actually there to make a pressure "pinch" of the braid against the shell of the connector to ensure positive contact... and there's apparently a thin washer I couldn't figure out was a spacer between the plastic spacer and the part that actually goes against the braid... Made almost identically to how this one is made, just BNC. As for my PL-259s, I'm still using that annoying kind that you have to solder on. Doesn't bother me -- they're less expensive and do the job -- but I'd definitely rather have these. As for water intrusion prevention, how well do these perform in your experience? Just got to 8:12. God, I can relate.
Erm.. Well it was ME that was doing this.. I should have moved down to the Vice area but couldn't be bothered to move the cameras and set up the lighting!
I glued two wooden clothline pins to a board and you can put the connector on one side and the coax on the other. It's held in place and keep the hole in the pin facing up, touch it with the iron and feed the solder in the hole. Put the solder iron away and give it a minute or so to cool and you're done. also don't push the back screw part up tight because the rubber grommet will bulge and make it harder to push into the shell. It's going to compress when you tighten the connector together. And using a plumbers wrench makes me wince
Thanks for this demo. Pardon my ignorance, but I like to keep things simple. I scratch my head trying to figure out the necessity of soldering the center pin to another center pin. It would seem to me that we would want to keep it simple and use a simpler connector that is better quality than the cheap PL259s out there. Maybe an Amphenol? I don't know, just thinking out loud. Wondering if that thought crossed the mind of you or some others out there? Keep up the great work, Callum.
I have 20 metres of Ultraflex 7 with these plugs, meant to be used portable from where I am not far from the car as the weight can be an issue if you have to carry it any distance, saying that I did once use it on a SOTA activation (Gun Moor) which was a bit of overkill, I paid for the plugs to be fitted as it worked oy slightly cheaper for me! I do need to find something from M&P that is suitable for SOTA activations (something lightweight!)
