I wish you had shown the details for routing, cutting the template, cutting the edges. I also wanted the steps that you did not even mention like wiping down after sanding. Good for what it showed, though.
Came for the laminate tutorial; stayed for the on-hold music. "We are experiencing an unusually high volume of calls right now, but we will be with you as soon as possible. Please continue to hold." As I continued to hold, I learned how to redo laminate.
You showed the important part of putting new laminate over old, with specifics on the sanding. I'm in the process of doing this and will probably do some more sanding to get the high spots, like you showed. Helpful.
@@Lauren-vd4qe Yep! Turned out well. Not hard at all. I used 3M contact adhesive (low voc) and am happy with that, too. It's tricky if you're used to regular contact adhesive, but if you follow the instructions carefully, there's no problem. I let the glue set for 90 minutes which makes it stronger, unlike regular contact cement. I used it because the counter was already in place and I didn't have a good way to get proper ventilation. But the 3M is the only low-voc brand I'd use, the only one that gets good reviews. I also got the fancy edging from cabinet maker warehouse. The product was excellent, but I wish I'd watched the video about the formica Ideal edging first, though. My edging does show a seam and it wouldn't have if I'd found the better instructions first and followed them. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TpExEFaPLL8.html . The seam's not bad, and I built my own backsplash that also has a seam, so it's no biggie, but just a tip others might find useful. Also, I used the color caulk to match the formica and they didn't have a cartridge, only a tube. The caulk tubes never work as well as the cartridges, so I wish I'd have gotten it elsewhere. Menard's has color caulk in cartridges, but a different brand. So those are a few things I learned. Very happy with the result. Menard's also has laminate in smaller sizes, and a variety of different ones. Much easier to handle and cost effective, depending on what you need to cover.
I would have liked to have seen you put down the larger sheet on the counter top by the sink. I can see how that would be a lot more challenging to handle and put in place. I would think you would need help in doing that. Watching would have been really helpful. John Blask
You use edge snippers to trim it off, followed up by a file. (Only pushing with the file. Never pulling.) The snippers are angled to allow you to trim flush with whatever. They're like $7 on Amazon.
Great video considering I've been looking for something just like this. I've been considering doing the same thing and have been looking and asking around but NO ONE has done it! Great help. FYI... I LIKED your vid but see you have LOTs of good questions that you haven't answered.... Some are good and should be answered.
They have special laminate trimming router bits for that. Get the ones with a roller bearing. Not the cheap ones without a bearing---they burn the edges.
I would not use the mini blinds---not enough spacing. You are better off, I think, using 3/4 inch x 3/4 inch wood strips to make sure that you do not have the two edges meet until you are ready b/c when they meet they stick together permanently! But your result looks great! How did you do the mitered joint?
Thanks for leaving this video up! You may have posted it four years ago but it's still teaching people like me today! How did you protect your outer vertical edges that you had already installed when using the router to cut the hang-over edges from the top pieces?
Angela Cairens-Kelz thanks! You need to use a router bit with a bearing guide (one piece). That should be sufficient but you could put masking tape down as a spacer. But that would mean more filing. Good luck!
Demo on the router and filing the edges, some of the terminology, isn't familiar to a lay-person trying to duplicate your project. Just a suggestion if you do another video. Also, two coats of glue, assuming you let the one dry first?
Hello Very Good Video. Here's my question now it has been 9 years since you p0sted this video, how are they holding up? Any seperation or bubbles? I really do not want to rebuild the plywood base. Hope it is still smooth sailing. Thanks In advance.
Your background sander, tools and music is much louder than your voice. Please speak louder or lower the background noises so you can be heard correctly. Otherwise a gr8 video.
justin smith I will preface this by saying I'm not a pro, but I followed advise and what I did was to pull the countertop away from the wall. Take your drawers out, crawl into the cabinet, find the screws that go up from the corners of the cabinet into the countertop. Unscrew those. Now the countertop is loose of the cabinet. Pull it away from the wall so that your router can reach everything. Cut fluss, push the countertop back, and reinstall the screws into original holes. I found no other way to do it.
Use a “trim” router, they have a smaller base. Once you have gone as far as you can, cut the remaining with a sharp knife. You can score it from the underside and then snap it off. Also, a rasp and sanding block is a good tool to ease the edge.
I have a silver dollar sized defect in my laminate where the underlying fiber board is actually showing through. Don't know what happened but, all the rest looks fine. What can be done about that?
You use a back cutting saw---such as a japanese saw with a fine blade-- for that area and have to be very careful not to break the laminate-Make sure you hold the overhang or support with some wood--then you fine tune the edge with a file
