Reliable inverters ground connections, 60v + 60v split phase issue debunked. I’m testing out the 60 60 split theory that the ground is a center tap and the neutral and hot wires each share hot 60v current.
I got a 2500 of those inverters tied to a 200a lithium. Now I am worried. I do not use it frequently, and I decided not to mess with the board that connects to a house outlet. I just have used the inverter ac outlets to charge my bluetti and pecron and intermittently for a small ac unit, charging small devices. The rest of the time it sits turned off connected to the battery/charger and panels. I am nervous now because I know one of this days, I will have to open it and checks on those wires myself. Since I am not an electrician and I am weary of electric stuff (I have put together my 12 v stations for emergencies with you tube guidance). I am saving your video to follow your instructions. Thanks for the information. Keep on posting!
My harbor freight inverter has the same setup. For most things its not really a problem, except to the main thing I want to power in an outage, my furnace! I believe my only options are an isolation transformer or to just get a better inverter and use a N-G bonding plug if they aren't inside the inverter. I'm leaning towards the latter.
Good video, to check the continuity in the outputs of the team, for the next time make a video in Spanish, for those of us who do not understand much English
The reliable brand have some bad design just look at the sine wave filter copper wire it’s 16 gauge wire that limit the output power and voltage I can bet the voltage dropping big time with load 5kw sine wave filter most be 12 gauge alway I use 8 gauge for 6kw filter and two core for 9kw of 8 gauge to reduce heating of core
Quick question... I have been using this brand inverter (mine is a 24v, 10k version) for almost 6 months with no issues, but I don't use the built-in outlets on the inverter. So, in my case, wouldn't another (and easier) solution be to just NOT use the built-in outlets on the front of the inverter and just use the terminal connectors? Currently that's what I am doing - only using the terminal connectors (I have them wired into a separate distribution center in my shop). Depending on your answer, and rather than opening up the box and swapping the wires, wouldn't this be a simpler solution, or am I missing something? Thx!
There is no neutral on the inverter. There are 2 leads coming from each side of the secondary transfomer coil and both are live or hot so to say. A neutral is when one of the leads at the transformer is connected to proper ground and this is not the case here.
Here’s the odd thing, if you connect the earth ground bond to the black (neutral?) tab with the factory wiring the polarity of an outlet tester shows hot neutral reverse. If you switch the leads to the circuit board (and relabel the terminal bus) the tester comes out correct. Question, if both are hot why is one working fine with earth ground and the other showing hot neutral reverse? These inverters in the past have in the product description “earth connection for both circuit board and output? By bonding the neutral (or one hot out of the transformer) to earth ground is that not a “proper ground”?
@@WattsinWattsout Hi this is my take on this. Please correct me if I am wrong. I have a 3000W WZRELB inverter and I am quite happy with it. In the manual it says: "NOTE: 1. NO connect the red wire with the yellow one or the black one with yellow one, the voltage from this connection is not the true voltage, it will damageyour equipment. 2. If the house neutral wire is combined with the ground, connect the black wire with it, Do not connect the inverter yellow wire with the black wire together." The yellow outlet seems to be conected to the transformer center tap and also to the chassis. The red and black outlets are from the transformer coil ends (actually several small high frequency transformers). They are both live. If you connect black or red to yellow you will shorten half of the transformer and burn it. The yellow would be a neutral if you would connect it to proper ground but then it is 60V neutral to phase and 120 phase to phase and nobody needs 60V or? I don't even understand why they connect a yellow outlet. Maybe so people shall burn their inverter and have to buy a new one. My 3000W Reliable Power inverter does not have this yellow transformer center tap connection. These "cheap chinese inverters" are not designed to be connect to your grid. They are made for being a stand alone power supply. Problem arises if you want to connect it to your grid and if your grid is an American TT or European TN system but don't do that. They are not made for that. Then you have to buy things made for that and hire an electrician to do it. And as long as you use it as a stand alone power supply I agree with the company that it doesn't matter if the outlets are reversed.
@@mgold9999 I am using this as a standalone power supply where there is no existing utility power. I have a panel set up with breakers and earth ground. I am not suggesting that it be connected to an existing utility power supply or to share a panel with such. The manual and product description has changed over the years but if you look you can find suppliers with the old description “Earth connection for both pc and output connections. I believe they are wired incorrectly at the factory (outlet) and when users connected to earth ground the units were burning out fets and fuses. Rather than correct the wiring they re-wrote the manual and product description. This company makes a split phase model that has the circuit board marked line1, Neutral, line2. If you switch the wires to correct polarity of the outlet and connect the earth ground (bond) to the neutral the 60v + 60v goes away and the earth to ground only shows minimal voltage +-0.2-0.5 volts. If you connect the hot and ground the unit still displays the 60v + 60v and displays hot neutral reverse. I have not tried putting any load on it with the hot and ground bonded. That could be disastrous and blow the unit. I have been running a full size fridge that draws over a kilowatt per day Ali go with an ac unit 1200watts and the unit is running fine under that load. It’s been about two months with no issues. The gfci works and has a true path to ground. Renogy makes an inverter that has a built in neutral ground bond at the chassis and they provide a gfci outlet however there is no earth ground so it is not a true gfci.
He is right, what you have is simply 120VAC Single Phase with the Ground tied to the Center-tap. Once you Removed the Ground / Case and Circuit Board / Center-tap Connection, there will be NO Voltage to the Ground / Center-tap, but only 120 VAC between the two (L1 - L2) "Hots," but instead of 240 VAC like our American Grid, you have 120VAC --- that can Now be Stepped up to 240VAC with a Center Tap --- that can Now even Be Bonded to the New Neutral that will be Created (using either an Isolation Transformer OR a Step Up/Down Transformer --- also called an "auto Transformer. I, myself, plan to do it (when I need 220V Spit Phase). I have the Equipment already, but have not done what I just stated (only the 230VAC Single Phase Conversion to 230VAC Spit Phase. There are videos on youtube on this very thing. @@WattsinWattsout
I have the Reliable 24v 3000 when I do the continuity test my hot on the regular plug seems to be the left side because it beeps when I touch the red on the terminal bar so does this mean I have the same problem ?
It appears to be the same issue. I have watched quite a few videos of this brand and can spot the problem if they show the inside of the case. I’ve contacted the company and they say it doesn’t matter if the outlet is reversed. I asked them to forward it to the engineers. If you are only using a small appliance with a two prong plug maybe but if you add more then one item and if it grounds it fries the board. The fuses, and mosfets usually blow. I am contemplating contacting Amazon and explaining the issue and ask they send a few units in for independent product testing. Back in the 1970s-80s the US required all outlets 120v to have a separate ground. Prior to that it was anything goes with the hot and neutral tabs. Now it is clear how outlets are to be wired. I don’t know how they got these past independent lab testing without triggering a repair. If you open it up use a proper sized Phillips driver and what I found best is to always unscrew them from an overhead position. This way you can apply steady pressure downward on the screws so they don’t strip. I lean the case on it’s side to get the side screws out. I’ve seen videos with folks stripping the screws and prying them open. The first turn is the hardest to get right. When reassembling I use the same method to get them tight.
@@WattsinWattsout also in your new video I see you tied the neural to the and ground. I’m using an outlet to get full power not tied to my house. Do I still tie them together ?
@@donnyhudson305 Are you using the outlet with an extension chord? If so the jumper will give you correct wiring for the outlet but it will be a floating ground. If not connected to a panel using the terminal connections for a true earth ground then you can use the ground lug on the bottom of the case to connect to an earth ground source. This should give you a safer system with a true earth ground.
The name Reliable brand name is an oxymoron. High frequency, output transformerless inverters like these have a much shorter life expectancy and a far poorer peak power capacity than a low frequency, transformer based inverter. I wouldn't use one of these dangerous, toy inverters, even if they were giving them away for free.
