In this installment of our Shotgun components series we will look at the wads and the various ways we can make them better! Comment, Like, and Subscribe. Support us through Patreon www.patreon.co...
Very extensive video Matt, nicely done! I'm now using some CLAY BUSTER wads in 12 GA I sourced from Bass Pro, but I've also used Ballistic Products as well. I'm now trying to perfect or replicate some 20 GA Sabot loads with copper Barnes slugs to shoot out of my SAVAGE 220 for deer season. Remington stopped selling their Copper Solids and the price is running $5 per round for their other sabot offering. At any rate, don't know if you've ever tried reloading sabot slugs in either 20 or 12 GA. When I finally succeed in matching factor accuracy, I'll shoot a video for my RU-vid channel. Thaks for sharing.
I’m new to shotgun reloading. It’s waaaay different than metallic cartridge reloading. Thanks for all the info you put out, it’s very very informative.
Love these videos I have really enjoyed listening to you talk about the ends and outs of reloading. Please continue to make videos. I like the hunting load videos thanks and God bless
that was great... i grew up reloading with my dad for trap skeet and hunting. Ill i ever knew was lead shot now with steel and im getting back into reloading shotgun...this is handy info. thx
Wad selection is important for stack height to get the desired crimp. Tapered hulls take a different wad as compared to a straight hull. There is a life time of information to learn about shotguns and shell construction. Good Job OK SHOTGUN
When are you going to make more videos I think you explain it better than anybody I’ve seen I just started re-loaded shotgun it’s a lot more to it than Rifle
Great info I love the 16ga to one of my favorite guns is my Winchester 37a from my childhood looking forward to the next video God bless you and have a great day
The 16 Gauge has always been my favorite. My Dad got me hooked on that gauge when I was just a kid. It carries like a 20 with the payload of a 12. To me its the best of both worlds!
Good stuff! Lots of good info that will hopefully keep folks from damaging their guns or even injuring themselves. Always remember you're creating a pressure about three times that of a SCUBA tank right next to your eyes every time you pull a trigger.
Fantastic video!! You should do one describing nitro cards and their purpose, it would be helpful to me and others im sure. I loved the video and your explanation behind all the wads.
Disclaimer,,,, I am new to reloading shotshells.. So new that I havent even loaded my first one yet... I do hand load my rifle ammo but wanted to get into my shotguns too.. So I bought the Lee load all 2, primers arent easy to come by but I scraped up about 200 and still looking.. Anyway,,, I thought this would be as easy as rifle and come to find out, Im having to spend extra because I had no Idea each recipe had to be followed to the T. (primer, wad, shot weight and type, powder type and grains) Im starting to wonder if its worth the money I spent. At least my rifle loads I can play with a little and develop a load that works best for my rifle.. With the stuff I have for shot shell, it doesnt match any load data that I have.... Where do I go to find out what my wad is equivalent to.? Load data specific to it and Also how do I tell if its tappered or not.? It does not say on the package.
Hodgdon has a list of wads that are equivalent to each other. Here is the link www.hodgdonreloading.com/sites/default/files/_media/content/wad-substitution-chart.pdf The best way to tell if the hull is tapered is to cut a hull in half. If the hull wall gets thicker the closer you get to the brass it is tapered. If I’d is straight walled it will be the same thickness all the way down.
Wow, amazing info. by the way. I started shooting a couple of 16 gauges last year. Holy Hannah. I fell in love with them. I won't shoot steel or anything like that through them. I will only shot lead. One is an old Ithaca model 37, and the other a fine and dandy Huglu O/U with double triggers. As you know, ammo is scarce and I plan on reloading for it once I can find primers again. So I have shot Herter's 8 shot game loads (purchased ammo in 2021, black hulls), and also some Remington in various 7 1/2, 8, and even a 9 shot game loads. I bought BPI wads (SG16 and some Claybuster WAA16 equivalent.) I can find info for the Remington for the Claybuster, but I don't know what those Herters cases are. They are just like the inside of those Remingtons, and not like the Federals with the fiber bottoms. I also bought the 16 Gauge reloading book from BPI but I can't tell what hull the Herters are. I guess I'm asking if you might know, or at least steer me in a good direction. Thanks in advance and I enjoyed your video.
I don’t claim to be an expert... But I have shot dozens of trap loads ..DOZENS... Neary all the wads I could get my hands on... No Difference.. not enough to make a difference in pattern. Nufsed
Are you aware of any biodegradable wads and other components available in the US for reloading? I’ve been searching and haven’t been able to find anything. Thanks!
Hey man. I hunt birds. I shoot steel and hevi-shot. What's a good wad to extend my distance? I have a cylinder bore. I typically shoot #7 for geese and smaller for smaller birds. Typically more than 1 oz of shot weight. Thank you!
You will have to find a load and try it with various chokes to see what it looks like in a pattern from your shotgun. You should never just substitute a wad out of curiosity. Always trust published load data, unless you have a pressure test system to verify a load. You can send loads in to be tested to various places, but that can get expensive. There are various manufacturers that make replacement wads or “generic” as some will say. I have found the Claybuster wads work better than the Winchester wads of the same design.
Wads is the confusing Part for me I reload centerfire pistol and rifle ammo but shotshells reloading seems different to me and I'm not confident yet to start loading shotshells
It's not too bad, you just start with a loading manual and load a single type of shell you like, such as a standard low pressure target load until you perfect your process and get comfortable with other loads. I started loading 12 gauge at 13 years old, I figured it all out myself without being taught anything after my uncle gave me a MEC Grabber progressive press and a Lyman shotshell loading handbook, the manual has _everything_ you need, just spend some time reading up on different loads and you'll be fine. My first load was a Winchester AA hull, Winchester primer, WAA-12 wad, with 21 grains of Alliant Green Dot pushing a 1-1/8 oz load of #8 lead shot, then I found out I could get a Lyman 525 grain diabolo slug mold and directly substitute the slug for the #8 shot without changing a thing, I used to load literal 5 gallon buckets of slugs at a time and never had a problem with overcharged powder or anything, it really is easier than centerfire reloading. I got into centerfire reloading earlier this year, I can easily tell you if you're comfortable loading for pistol and rifle then shotgun shells will be a cinch, it's not as complex as you'd think and the manufacturers have taken all the guesswork out of the process with their loading manuals, give it a shot, I bet you'll love it.
Hey bud I appreciate the very informative video! I’m getting ready to start reloading shotshells simply because the kids really enjoy shooting clays and the prices went up ridiculously at the local shops. Before I was considering reloading I bought several cases of the black herters from Cabelas. The work great for dove hunting,clay shooting and small game. Was wondering what wad you would recommend for that hull. I can’t seem to find much anything on that particular hull. Also what reloading manual would you suggest?
I am not familiar with the Black Herter’s from Cabelas. Herters for a long time was a cheddite hull, but not anymore. The change came about when Bass Pro acquired the Cabelas company.
Your info on the first wads for tapered walled hulls(Win wads) is a little off base, the yellow wad WAA12F114-12 -CB1114 -12, orange wad WT-12-CB0118-12 and white wad WAA12-CB1118-12 are all very similar but are different wads used for a different weight of lead. Otherwise a decent video.
Thank you for watching the video. I do not use the WAA12F114 wad or the Claybuster equivalent. I do use the Claybuster equivalent for the WAA12 and the WT-12 for my 1 1/8 ounce loads. Both of those 1 1/8 wads can be used interchangeably per Lyman and Claybuster. Per a conversation with Claybuster the resin for the CB1118-12 and the CB0118-12 use the same resin and the same mold. They just use an orange dye for the WT-12 equivalent.
@@okshotgun The first wad you picked up was yellow and not white like all WAA12-CB1118-12 are, might be your camera but it looked yellow to me, if it's not yellow I apologize !!!
@@leoeced7811I owe you an apology. I went back and looked at my wads. I bought a bag of Claybuster wads that took the place of the WAAF114 wad and compared it to that wad you pointed out in my video. You were right. I don’t know how it ended up in the mix of 118 wads but it did. I appreciate you pointing that out. We are always learning and helping one another. Thanks for having a sharp eye. Happy Hunting!
I have only seen where the BPGS gas seal goes on top of the powder between the powder and the rest of the components. I would check with BPI for more specifics.
Yes. Most steel wads will work with lead. They key is so they have a published load that calls for that wad. Ballistic Products, Precision Reloading, and Lyman have loads for lead using non-toxic wads. Usually they call them field wads.
Filiana Blanxart - True, but they have the side benefit of adding protection to the barrel. Same thing can be seen with any number of products where the original purpose of something becomes less important than the side effect.
The wad slick was exactly what I wanted to know but couldn’t find in a video. I’ve found everything I need except 3.5” 12 gauge primed hulls. Any suggestions? Thank you
Those are hard to find I have heard. I haven’t loaded any 3 1/2” hulls. Ballistic Products or Precision Reloading would be my best guess on where to look. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
