I contacted Rimmers about that fabulous bush removal tool - they gave me a generic link that isn't that tool. So theirs is made of "Unobtainium." :P So I removed my old bush by splitting/collapsing inward/removing last time I did it. But two years ago the water pump shaft ate and shredded the jackshaft, so I went the elec water pump route. LAST thing I wanted to do. NEVER wanted an elec pump - but it works.........But so sick of water pump uncertainty; what with the "batch of improperly hardened teeth" pumps. (Bought a brand new Unipart one in 1998 and it lasted 1,000 kms. Back to second hand known shafts.) After 340,000 kms and 25 years and 7 return trips (7,000 kms return, Melb to Perth) across one of the hottest continents; I am just fed up with the water pumps. Only let me down twice (luckily near home, once in 2001, once last year); but had enough. Each to their own. Yes, a 16 inch elec fan is a must here. First thing I bought. I went to see a guy about some parts the other day. Three days just over 40 degrees C. Stag handles it. Stags can handle heat; easily. But the cooling system must be working in all aspects. Mine is an everyday car, gets used 3 days a week when weather is good/sunny. Couldn't be bothered if I couldn't.
Alan Hummel - Every time I have removed the WP, the cage stays there. I have a slide hammer with a hook that fits underneath, but have to be careful. The best bet is a shaped washer slightly smaller than the hole; slide under the bottom of the brass basket - tap it up and out. Last block I got, someone had used a hook and gouged the block surfaces....... Hmmmmm. I tried to reply to you below, but it cuts it off past two lines, so put it here. Block damage is the last thing you need, as is a precision surface.
I think Stag owners ought additionally to know that the standard radiator header tank down low in the engine bay is not at all a good idea. Better to plumb in a new header tank just underneath the bonnet well above the block so that expansion water will drain back into the cooling system while the engine cools off. A further modification is the replacement of the standard radiator fan with an electric one which runs on after use. And all this (incl. the new 12-vane pump) is NOT eliminating, just mitigating the Stag's inherent cooling problems.
Agree totally about the header tank. But there is nothing wrong with the original viscous coupled radiator fan, which is of a sound design, and works perfactly well.
@@stagweberVMad Electric cooling fans are superior. Viscous fans can slip over time. They also take up a lot of room. There is a reason why they are not used any more.
Good advice. Plus a _bigger_ radiator. If you have one of the cylinder heads that was flawed - one of the two contracted out third party head casting companies changed the cooling ways not telling Triumph - these mods will make matters much easier. These mods are in case you have a flawed cylinder head, or two of them - you will not know if you have one/them. If you have one of the later Stags, the _chances_ are that the heads will be OK.
@@chrisspain7776 I totally disagree. Quality electric fans are superior. Buy quality electric fans, and fit using professional standards and connectors. Not everyone is a hacker.
Is there any specific reason you don't use the supplied 0.010" and the 0.030" to make up your 0.040" gasket thickness instead of buying another 0.020" ?
Triumph had a clean sheet of paper when designing their V8 and slant 4 and this atrocious piece of design is what they came up with. Did someone think to themselves "Let's put important components on our new engine in the most difficult places to access" It's not just the water pump but the distributor and even the angle of the spark plugs that make it such a nasty engine to work on.
