You guys are doing just great. The fact that you are learning to repair everything yourselves will be of enormous advantage in the future as you will be able to fix everything or find a workaround whenever (note not "if") something breaks while at sea and nobody is around to help. Once you have a mental 3D X-ray image of your entire boat and how everything works and how to fix or replace it then you are indeed ready to go cruising. All this knowledge can't be bought with a credit card....
love your program. mine was built in Greece also 1974 build. bought her as a hull demasted f ked engine, now new mast rigging and engine now a good s/v might be looked down on in the the marina here in Fethiye Türkiye but the love of my life.
Cheers to you guys for keeping such a positive attitude through such trials. I know you have inspired many (including myself) and continue to do so. Thank you!!!
@@BarefootSailingAdventures Cool. If you go to bumsonaboat.com the donate button links to our PayPal. Also you can find ours by searching our email sailingsustainably@gmail.com. By the way, loved that comment you made a few episodes back, "we spent a lot of money to get here...but not spending any at the moment" lol.
The idea of building a cradle to support your boat for the keel floor repairs is much better than attempting the repair afloat. The repair process needs access to the outer hull both to realign the keel and hull surface, and also to provide some added strength along the undersides of the transverse that are showing cracks. If you can do the cradle the actual repair will be much easier to accomplish. As others have commented, pull type scrapers make bottom scraping much easier. They are what I use. My experience with disc type sanders on bottom paint is the paint sort of smears into the sanding disc, clogging it. Makes a mess and winds up being slower than scraping. Greg
This is exactly what I was hoping for, someone who REALLY knows your boat. And to find an entire facebook group , what could be better ! I knew the people were out there !
Please take the advice and add the extra strength of the top reinforcement tension plate even if that only makes a series of “I” beams rather than a full box beam section. You will need that extra strength if the boat ever bottoms out hitting the sand bars or a reef repeatedly with wave action. Its pretty obvious that the original design was inadequately strong to take such loads, hence the cracks. Also you really should have a frame to frame chain to ensure that the hull supports don’t slide outwards. Grinding. You can get discs with thick layers of grit that sacrifice to cut very quickly and not clog. Registering that you are down to the glass and need to seal the material you need the following gel layer to key into the underlaying glass surface. Ie a little roughness is desirable, I believe.
We do intend to strengthen the structure during the repair. Many ideas have been shared as exactly how to do that and we are still in the decision process. Until we get the keel structure level we don't play to move forward so in the mean time we are moving our focus to the exterior. We ordered some flexible grinding discs. The ones we have are too stiff for the hull and would make scallops. Hoping the discs come in a reasonable time.
if you are going to go with hand scraping see if you can find this: Warner 2 in. Soft Grip Carbide Scraper with Knob. $20 at Home Depot or equivalent. It is way better than what you are using. You pull with both hands not pushing, and the carbide insert is really sharp and lasts a long time.
Mark I use Scrappers Every Day On Boats and Keyed Instruments Hardwood Floors in the Corners They get Dull quikley Go with a Red Devil with Replacable Blades And Use a File to Sharpen Them Wire a Longer Handle on it You would not Believe how You can Scrape with it!
Like Mark said, any carbide scraper that you pull will work better. No carbide available? Get a pull scraper and sharpen it often, like Tool Maker said. That'll cut your time in half or better.
Just drill holes into the keel. Let it drain out. You can make plugs and glass over later. Glad you are on the Carter Group and getting good instructions now. You guys can do this!
well done guys your filming techniques are getting better, this was a very entertaining video even if it was all about keel repair and paint scraping, double thumbs up 👍👍
What are you a bum hater? Bums are people too just don't have money. Oh you are British, bums are a different thing there I see they, are not referring to the buttocks LOL...
Pleased to hear you have great info - from a boat builder that did the same on social media is priceless. So pleased you two take advice from us that are in the trade too, you seem to have a good grip on what was suggested, probably too late, but do try fix all in the yard, there may be issues that arise during any fix, @14.43 that fix is well done, do take the glass lamination's further to the sides of the joinery (seats?) especially on the top of those keel ribs, usually the keel support ribs go right up to the gunwale (hull/deck join) to take stresses through the hull - along with chain plate ribs which are usually attached to the main bulkhead and some smaller bulkheads around mid bunk area. I have found that old polyester glass structures aren't good at adhering new lay ups of new polyester resin, Vinyl Ester resin maybe better, others may have experience on using this resin - I have not, epoxy is best, but needs to be on dry areas, Professional Boatbuilder mag (Pro Boat) has excellent references to the mechanics of polyester repairs, and the adhesion of polyester and epoxy lamination's on old polyester laminates. Proboat - www.proboat.com/ Great resource. www.thoughtco.com/vinyl-ester-vs-polyester-resins-820376 - Vs Polyester - interesting info.
Gotta love the 21st Century. Information is just zooming around at the speed of light and right at our fingertips. How stupid we would be to not take advice from those who build/repair boats by trade. The trouble is not getting overwhelmed and knowing who to go with. We do find that many are on the same page and tend to go in that direction. Of course we have experts who insist on a different way than other experts but this is a good problem to have. We are still working on ways to fix in the yard. We do plan to go heavy and far on the glass laminations as our fellow Carter owner advised. Thanks for the resources. We will give them a look.
You might know doodly squat about boat work but it's evident you're good at making videos. In front and behind the camera. Creative and entertaining. You have good product right there.
one of the best sailing videos i saw without actual sailing. the evil woodpecker shows up and knocks on wood. so do i when seeing the issues you have to face now. but something says to me that these bums can and will fix it. people who are scraping their boat with no help from machines are not accepting no for an answer. gathering knowledge is the key to success .......cheers alex
Just a thought , you might not want your dog to think chewing on lines is OK . You got that keel under control now . That is not a real expensive repair , but it is one you need to do right . Grind out the old and glass on new on fresh ground off glass . If it was me I would over build it from what was thereby a little bit , but by the same token what was there lasted 30 + years so far .
Dang that is a good point!! You wouldn't want a dog to gravitate towards chewing ropes. Maybe soak his chew ropes in aluminum sulfate (alum) and at the same time offer him an alternative so he will decide ropes aren't tasty.
lol yea good point. Not good. She does good at not chewing things other than her toys on the boat. We have been pretty strict on her when it comes to that but when she is in the yard its just a free frawl.
@@Bumsonaboat She looks like a smart dog and not stressed - she will be great . Just hate to see her shorten up one of your sheets for you- usually in the middle . I live in Canada , minus 37 last week , so I envy you in the heat . Heading down to race in the BVI's in a few weeks to get my sailing fix Oh and feel your pain stripping the bottom of the boat , going to do my 3rd boat next year and dreading it . The first time you do it your ignorance and optimism for how hard can this be shields you from the nightmare , but after the second one you can't fool yourself anymore . Might soda blast instead .
I absolutely love watching you guys. Really you guys are evolving, super entertaining, informative! I think I have seen all your videos. I was doing research about sailing, becoming a cruiser and found you all. Keep it up! I'm going to sign up as a patron as soon as I get back to my computer.
Like I said before that’s a lot of work....I’ll have to say you both seem ambitious to get the job done...That’s Awesome team work......Lola seems to have made friends with the yard dogs...She is one kool looking doggie........T.Gunz........
We enjoyed watching the video but know the frustration you are experiencing. I think you recognize you have to get the keel to hang and that is the purpose of the future cradle. Can Isaac lift that high with the trailer? You are in the best location for the money so make the best of it. My keel repair was not successful since I did not unload
Great to hear:) We know you went through a similar situation...heard your floor boards were being pushed up but thought all was good. Don't think Isaac can but this cradle we are looking at will be built around the boat and be able to lift just a bit while leaving the jack stands in place and tightening them as we lift. HMM we will see. What kind of keel repair did you need to make?
Hi. You still ought to chock the boat a little higher. As for doing it in the water if the keel is not hanging exactly vertical, you cannot adjust it. So doing the job on the hard is the only option. Build a cadle. Chock the hull higher, if you need to adjust the keel you can do that on the hard, no need for scuba gear! Also water can stop polyester resin cureing stone dead , also low tempratures can also do that as well. Where you are temp shouldnt be a problem! Just think of the life skills you two will have at the end of this big project. Best of luck.
I love ur videos I have family that live in the Bahamas I keep waiting to see if you guy's run into them.....there boat's called the yamacraw there exactly like you if you run across them definitely stay for the party keep up the awesome vids guys
@@toolmaker3799 - I'm doing great. My dad was the head fiberglass technician for two large yacht builders in the Netherlands. As a child I spent a lot of my free time looking over his shoulder at a time when a child in the shop didn't end up with a call to Children's Aid. That along with fifty some odd years of living on my own yachts has left me with at least a little bit of knowledge. :)
@@toolmaker3799 We went on a big hunt for Pull Scrapers here in town. Came up empty handed. We were aware that was the tool of choice but this was all we had. Still on the lookout for one. Shipping takes 2-3 weeks minimum.
Just keep up the good work and your learning. You’ll be soon in the water again (in some weeks), if you take everything in your own pace and do the job thoroughly. There are no quick fixes. They are always a detour and gives you more trouble before getting ready. #experienced 🛠☠️
Thanks this is what we intend to do. Its not about the destination but the journey and right now we are enjoying this part of the journey. We would be foolish to think...once we splash or once we get under way...THEN our troubles will be gone. lol No Im sure you know as well that sailing out there can get dicey quick. No rush, just finding our pace and learning what we can.
Excellent, that’s the way to handle what ever comes in your way of DIY. And in the mean time you’re going to be pro’s on giving your vessel the love she needs. I’m sure she’ll be rewarding you a multiple of times. ⛵️
I'm a boatbuilder and repair guy and I advise laying matt glass first and then medium weight cloth, continue this in alternating layers around the cracks. Make the patches long and dont foget to grind clean the old dirty resin and glass off with an angle grinder and get right into the cracks then stuff matt fiber strands into the cracks and wet out, then wait and grind smooth, then do the patch. the most important thing is that the first layer of patch going down gets a really good clean contact, it doesn't have to be smooth but it does have to make good contact it's a glue patch. If you use just matt glass like most people do it will be weak, you need alternating layers of matt and cloth. use as many layers as you want but use enough, you can't really use too many layers and don't forget to make the patches real long,.good luck. It's not difficult nor do you need a lot of experience but you do have to understand how to lay glass and mix resin, I would use regular poly resin. Don't let the next boatyard ruin your boat by lifting it the wrong way it's their fault !00 percent I would have said put it back in the water and not pay,.or sue.
Sue? That's a first world tactic which seldom works in third world countries. Not to mention a potential hazard(s) to your health. Especially refusing to pay. Terrible advice, and so very American. Sometimes you just have to kick some dirt over the shit and move on.
@@bryanshaw8246 Yeah been there! You start arguing with the locals and they'll pull fish filleting knives on you and there is no point calling the cops as they are all inbred cousins to some degree or other. Then they'll put up so many obstacles to getting anything else done in the future. Best thing is to monitor and supervise their work to prevent any damage. Remember if you want a job done properly; do it your damn self.
Oh my. There go your fingernails! And your knuckles and your skin and your so on and so on! Very hard and tedious work! Sweat equity for sure. It will all be worth the effort and you can know in your heart that you did the right way! I forget, are you able to live aboard during this work? That keel issue concerns me but thankfully you found that owners Facebook page. They should have a wealth of knowledge to help you on your way.
Music definitely helps the process. We are living aboard at the moment and slowly but surly discovering how challenging it can be. It hasn't broke us yet but we have had to regroup one or two times. The Carter owners Facebook page is a great resource. Great to be in the 21st Century:)
The polisher (low rpm grinder) will remove more material and leave more highs and lows than the DA.. The little random scallops you are worried about are not going to show up through the epoxy/gel coat.. The DA leaves a far better "finish" for painting/gel coating and the grinder better for removing bad areas that need re-glassed.. The DA is less destructive and easier to control.. I would suggest that be your tool of choice for removing just the surface junk..
Tripe,Pickard,Bait56 All Know How to do this !!Bumz your Getting a MILLION DOLLARS OF KNOWLEGE There's Been a ENORMNS AMOUNT OFF RESPONSE To THE Project!! I Thank All of You and it's Not My Project!!!
Thanks, we are checking out each comment. You are correct. We are grateful that you and many others are so willing to share their valuable Knowledge. Taking it all in and formulating a plan.
@@Bumsonaboat Chop,Chisel the Keel grid Free (Don"t Release it Yet)While your Doing that, Round up lumber for a Keel Cradle use the Vertical taper to stabilize and lock it in place,...-l\V/l-....That's Your Front view Blueprint (I saw the Rubic's Cube.Then release the Grid IT"S THE MOST DIFFICULT ITEM TO Repair,Replicate or Alter in your Scenario! " Commentz Please"
They make a style of scraper that you pull to do houses with that would be much faster it has a core side and a fine I hope you can find one it's a good tool
Hey guys I see you are careful to cover yourself from head to toe with protective clothing but those parts will wash off. What you really need to have is some filter masks fiberglass is one of those things you do not want to be inhaling
I do agree, but personally I would be more concerned about whatever is in the paint. Either way protecting their lungs is a must while doing this kind of work.
Your Hull is what is called on the East Coast of the U K Hogged. It is a common problem with traditional wooden boats and comes from not chocking fore and aft sufficiently to take the weight off the keel when out of the water. You are fortunate in your weather here we do our maintenance with the snow and sleet in our teeth. Character forming but that was half a lifetime ago. There is nothing wrong with hand tools and until you can use them well eschew power tools, unpopular but valid advice. Scarsten scrapers, the two handed version, are excellent upon wood. If packing damaged areas in glass use chopped strand mat not fillers as this will bond with better strength and integrity. If you are honest with the parts that cannot be seen they will not let you down at a vital moment. As with house building whatever the estimate in time, money or material add 20% and you will be closer to the final quantity.
Thank You MISTER Luff, I had a Sailboat in the 70ts From Hong Kong it was All Teak Every Thing I sold it to Buy a Large House to Start a Family.Now I remember the term Hogged!!
4:49 It's amazing what blue paint can do! JK. Looks like a good fix. Layering the glass to spread the load. Look at Dave Gerr's "The Elements of Boat Strength for Builders, Designers, and Owners". If anything, it's a good reference. Also, George Buehler's "Back Yard Boat Building" for practical wit and wisdom on things boaty. Keep up the good work!
Use the sander polisher with sanding discs, and facemasks or respirator, for the dust. I believe 60 grit discs , would do best and not be too aggressive.
Essentially pileated means capped so you are kind of correct, but that is actually a Hispaniolan woodpecker. A Pileated Woodpecker would be a long way from home to be seen in the Caribbean. If you were to compare them beside each other you would see the obvious differences in shape, size and color patterns.
@@toolmaker3799 - Good or bad I have spent the last fifty some odd years sailing alone and reading a tremendous number of books. It is a curse I have to live with. lol
Ever seen a floor tile scraper tru google that. The long handle mean you can cut a 5 inch line in one pass you got body weight and handle weight. And by experience scraper lose the square edge in about 2 day. The square edge get round so it’s not sharp. Get a new scraper and see how much faster it cut.
Josef very true however at this point we have discovered the best tool for the job at our disposal (wood chisel) and have perfected our methods bringing the time way down. All in all it will be a pretty accurate estimation. I'm certain places a 6" by 6" can be removed in well under a minute.
Greetings from Spain, was your boat ( The Carter 33 ) build by the ( Teliga Company??) of Poland, the question is that am looking at the Carter 30, and I've told that they do have problems on the keel to hull joint, probably too little glass used in the keel-ward portions of the hull, is that your problem.Thanks.
Hello! Our Carter 33 was built by Olympic yatchs in Greece. Yes, that is a common problem and is not close to the strength of a full keel when it comes to running aground. The boat is designed for offshore racing not cruising but we have lived aboard for 4 years now and have seen her hold strong in bad weather.
@@Bumsonaboat Many thanks, if you ever come to this part of the Med,(Alicante-Spain) all the food beer and wine that you can drink or eat,will be on me.Safe passages.
Safety gear! Even when scraping, you should have a mask and gloves on. Boat bottom paint is nasty stuff. Generally speaking, if you are working on your boat, you probably need at least some protection; sometimes A LOT.
just sayin- you could've had the boat done if you hadn't wasted time on all the analysis-- Lol! but good on you to put in the good ole elbow grease!! Patience and persistence pays off big time!
I don't know what the difference is between the video timeline and realtime, but if you haven't already finished fixing the hull on the hard, then the idea of refloating the boat to carry out the keel repair presents some serious issues of not being able to complete an effective repair. You cannot really encapsulate the keel in a new layers of fibreglass matt and epoxy it, then fair and finish it, with it pushed up and out of place, because if you do, when you put it back in the water the keel will be held in that position and will not move back into place, allowing you to to rebuild the stringers/keel floor in the original position. And if you put it back in the water to do the keel internal repair, without doing the outside work you will of course have to rehaul the boat to encapsulate the keel on the outside to complete the repair! Perhaps talking to the boat yard manager and trying get him to adjust the stands to relive the pressure off the keel to allow it back into position, is the conversation you need to make an effort to have and explain your dilemma to him. Or maybe you built a cradle and got it all done already..... Regards, Dave.
Okay this was one concern of ours. We are still on the hard and exploring an option of building a cradle around the boat that can life just enough to remove the extra pressure on the keel. Some said the fiberglass would flex but we were not convinced. These videos are really up to date. So no we are exactly where this video left off.
@@Bumsonaboat OK, Then perhaps there are a few options available that don't require a complete custom made cradle, but that can do what you need. A cradle would allow you to lift the boat and sit it fully supported at a height with the bottom of the keel a foot or two clear above ground level, that of course would be great, but you only actually need a few inches of clearance to glass under it. Using what you have available i.e. the boat yard stands, the major issue is, that they are essentially free standing independent props, which is why the keel is traditionally the primary a point of support. So the question is, how can you adapt what's available to your needs, in a way that does the job and gives you and the yard manager Isaac confidence in it? My suggestion is by attaching the yards boat stands in pairs port to starboard, using the heaviest chain and shackles available, Isaac could lift the boat using their hydraulic lift high enough to give you let's say 8 inches under the keel, move the stands into place and then chain them together at both the highest point and the lowest point available to prevent them from shifting under load, then in addition to the current stands, you should also use four more in two pairs fore and aft of the keel also chained together in the same way, port to starboard, but also fore and aft, in effect a mini cradle at the strongest and the most structurally sound point i.e. where the keel floor is sound without any upwards distortion and or a structural bulkhead and enough clearance to carry out the complete repair and keel encapsulation, this would be doing exactly what the keel is currently doing, which is supporting the central weight of the boat, but with the keel itself free to work on! Hopefully this would be achievable with the available resources, meet both yours and the yards requirements and keep costs to the minimum. Regards Dave
@@Bumsonaboat;; I agree with this youtuber , the keel needs to hang free to set the fibreglass or it WILL split open when it does hang in the water, on the hard the keel needs to hang to repair the boat . Best Regards John
Rethinking your situation look up scrapers in woodworking they're flat metal pieces that are really hard and you sharpen them a certain way and then been the sharp edge over you could make one out of a putty knife and it work a lot faster
Good math on the figuring out how long it's going to take but your forgetting fatigue. You'll never be able to keep up that scrapping pace for more than a few minutes. Electric sanders are a better choice for doing your work. It's worth it to buy a decent sander for all the work you're be doing go with a 6in unit it makes a big difference on the amount of time it takes. I like the Bosch units with the turbo mode almost makes them a grinder. Also you'll need a grinder. Better to wait for the right tools for the bottom than spend a ton of time not getting much done. While you're waiting start pulling apart the interior that you'll need to get the grid repaired and start grinding the glass that need store be removed for the repair. Get your experts to give you some guidance on how much needs to be removed. You can stand the boat on enough of those stands you have they just need to be chained together and have enough of them. Good luck again don't waste your time with outta knives get a decent scrapper.
Have you ever had this happen? It is a very strange sound to hear while relaxing in the cabin. I guess Woody isn't as bright as Walter Lantz made him out to be.
@@flyingdutchman6984 The Secret is Woodie CLANGZ On The Surface and out off the Crevices Come the BUGGZ (Might be Larvae can't tell looking thru My Spotting Scope)But they eat Something I see That!!!
I had a dog just like your Lola when I was a boy. We named him "Damnit" Can you guess why? He answered when you called. but only at the top of your lungs.
Obviously you sailors want to live in a DR boatyard. Oh, but you'll be ready to launch for next hurricane season. Ce petit bateau souffrira. Etre fort chak matay!
It is a shame that you have had to learn the old adage 'Haste Makes Waste'. All that work to re-prime and re-fair the keel adding to extended time on the hard not focused on Stringer repair and bottom recoating. Be aware that lead exposure is a cumulative damage and adds to any future exposure, just like radiation exposure is cumulative. Plan for success or fail to plan and fail to achieve.
I’ll tell you how long it will take with out all that math. A looooong fn time haha and uh oh. 8:50 michaels starting to talk like Joel more and more. Poor girl. Haha.
Since you seem to be going for the pirate look, and already have a rather large strange looking hat, why don't you find a Capt. Barbossa hat I think it would fit your image perfectly, at least for the videos.
Amateurs learning from amateurs may not be the best course of action, but Uma's repair video might give them some confidence to attempt it on their own.
Are you sure they rebuilt their keel structure? Cause it looked like a temp patch job. The way their keel was wobbling they should have either not bought the boat or rebuilt the entire hull area around the keel. Some boats are just not worth the repairs required.
Because the old barrier coat is coming off and in many places was already gone. We want to apply a new layer of barrier coat before a few coats of ablative anti fowling.
ask the guy who replaced the keel floor for more pictures.. so you know what the the structure is under the fiberglass top coats.. i don't think you can fix the keel floor floating.. unless you put a waterproof envelope under the entire hull so you don't have any chance of flooding.
Dear God! that scraping was painful to watch! No Buenos using those scrapers! You're probably done with it by now but I tell you anyhow. Google Images for Warner 2 inch soft grip carbide scaper with "Knob"... while being a manual labor pain in the ass it is still much much much more efficient! It's a gentile to moderate pressure as you pull the tool towards you...much easier than heavy pressure and pushing like the ones you have.... buy extra carbide blades and change them when you feel they're not working as well. It would be 1 min. for this test. and yes, I did an entire boat myself with several more layers of cement type bottom paint to remove....absolute hell but again...much faster than that!!!! good luck silly kids
Our fellow cruiser who is in this marina is the one who showed us we can use scrapers to remove our barrier coat. His first recommendation was to use this type of tool that you mention. We walked into town and went to all the places who may carry one and came out empty handed. Shipping takes 3 weeks minimum and well...we just figured use what we have. Claude (our neighbor cruiser) said these would work if it was all we had. Maybe we will come across one but we figured we could get this done much faster than the time it would take to ship one in and the cost to ride to a bigger city would be more than the scrapper itself. Thanks you!!
@@Bumsonaboat Yes! Many who have not traveled outside the US or other highly developed countries don't realize that every place does not have a Home Depot or West Marine on every corner. The import taxes in some countries is 100% of the value too. Good job on tackling such a huge task.
@@toolmaker3799 - Even polyester resin will dissolve when using certain paint removers such as the Marine Finish Remover made by McCormick Paints. I guess it all comes down to reading the label. :)
