In this video I weld in the cab supports in preparation for the floor repair. I also use what I built in Part 1 to lift the cab off the frame and move it on to the mobile cart. Follow Along Between Videos INSTAGRAM: paulk_c10
I like people that think outside the box. Excellent work!! When you work by yourself you learn to be innovative. I bet the next cart has all swivel casters.
I tuned in just to see your take on separating the cab from the frame and building a cart to move it around. Your attention to detail is impressive. Thank you for the detailed info.
Great vid and thank you! I work solo as well and have to do a frame swap on my 77 Ford to a 4x4 chassis this spring. Definitely going to use this approach to lift the cab!
Followed your instructions. Worked perfectly. And I also did it by myself. Made my cart a little longer so I could tilt it on its back. Thanks so much.
Nice work brother...Thanks for sharing your journey, It is very much appreciated! I'm getting ready to do a 72 and these videos have already saved me countless hours. Thank you again!!!
Thanks for posting the engine hoist jig for lifting the cab. My daughter and I built one and swapped the cab on our 52 chevy 3100 onto a new frame. Worked great! just need to make sure it is balanced and you are good to go!
a few years back i swapped cabs from one frame to another using trees, chains, straps, and a chain hoist. I didnt brace up the cab and i didnt have any problems. I just climbed on top of it and winched it up then climbed down. but now that i think about it maybe i shouldve braced it up. good video.
Very well planned and executed! Great idea on how you removed the cab. I’m hoping it can use my tractor but if It doesn’t work I’ll be using this method
First! Never get to say that. Just want to say you are one of the few that get me to work on my truck more and more often. Thank you for your vids! Keep them up! Joe ‘65 C10 LB
Nice work man. I really enjoy your videos. I have a 72 GMC 4x4 that I'm working on. I have shop envy since I'm working in a two car garage that my wife still parks in. The struggle is real but it'll be worth it some day!
Good job of thinking outside the box for a one man shop. I have been asked to have help for certain jobs, but most repairs are a one man job. I don't like having my tools not in place and worse, having the parts, washers, bolts scattered. I use magnets on the bottom if doing a clutch and zip top bags with a note inside what these parts are. When placed in logical fashion for left, right, steering only or whatever, the parts can be sandblasted, cleaned, painted or treated how you want before it's time to reinstall them. Hell, I place the new parts together protected of course, but have the old stuff to find witness marks and how they went together helps a bunch after a few weeks of longer has passed. It sucks sometime being the only guy in the family who can fix stuff. From relatives to neighbors asking for repairs means you have to stop your project. B.S. My 34 year old son dropped of a 4 wheel go-cart to fix, so his kids can drive next weekend. Seats bad, wood shot, sprocket & chain shot, non-drive axle bearing was friction welded together on the hub and axle. The skills I learned years ago allowed me cut the bearing race and locking collar off without damaging the axle. The rust and air gap between the two can give you room from this side cutting action to separate the two. Just lost three weeks I will never get back. I am sure the go-cart will be gone in a year because of damage or theft. So, all of my effort are gone. Then they asked why I get mad. They think of themselves and what make them happy...not me!
Seems like a lot of work and a lot of $$$. I just used 4x4s and solid concrete blocks and a jack to lift my wagon body off and put it on a body dolly I bought from summit racing. The 4x4s cost more than the blocks.
working on restoring an 85' dodge d100. don't have anything tooken out of the cab and I'm not sure on the weight. Kinda wondering if I could make something then jack the cab up on jacks and pull the frame out then slide a stand or something under it
I found this video first, so I'm commenting here. Great how to video! I'm about to do the exact same thing to my '69 LWB C10! Are there any other channels you recommend?
Quick question, when welding up the braces, would you recommend to change the cab mounts first? I heard old bad cab mounts can cause flex and maybe gaps in the body panels. Might be a good idea to replace them before welding braces and removing the cab? What do you think? I am also working on a 1970 C10 that was converted from a C20
You could. It’s all gonna flex that 1/8” to 1/4” when you tighten it down anyway. These trucks and the frames overall are pretty pliable compared to modern frames so it’s all flexing constantly anyway.
that's an nifty little add on to cherry picker. i mite steal that idea lol. i have 2 projects to do 94 lighting and a 85 c10 not sure what one to do first
Wow! I am really impressed....also, thank you for sharing your awesome ideas. I am going to replicate this process for my Cab-Off '85 project. One question though,...why did you need to weld in the center supports inside the cab? I've never seen anyone else do that before. Thanks again for sharing. Loving the videos!!
Someone was lazy before and tack welded the LF cab mount in from the top. These are free and just drop in. I did bushing on the entire cab & core support as the are sold in a kit. Now, I am 6’3” so I have a longer wing-span than the next bird but was able to remove with two arms. Impact in one, wrench in the other. I will go back to part one to get you wooden cab lift specs as I have probably seen it already. But that’s using you noodle!
Hey do you have the measurements of the piece you added to the crane, I would like to build one just like it for when I remove and install a cab on my '85 C10. Great job man keep posting.
@@paulkc10 Have you started tackling the rust? I did not realize mine floors were rusted through when I bought my truck. Afraid of what I will find when I start digging deeper
Prevent the cab from flexing, twisting, warping, folding, etc when I start cutting large sections of the floor out, introducing heat with welding and eventually lay the cab on its back
Has anyone thought about building a frame and jacking it from underneath boxing it on the floor and rolling it out ? I’m more then worried about damaging my cab
*NEVER EVER* put any part of your body between a cart/jig/etc and any weight being held up by a single hydraulic cylinder. I don't care how _"solid"_ it felt at the time. When you did this at 6:48, all I could think was _"That is a very good way to lose your arm Paul."_