Fender usually hides a lot of sins under solid colors...that body, while far from perfect, was not as bad as some I've seen...Nice work, taking the finish off those things is a patience game, although I was a bit nervous watching you take the Dremel sanding drum to it...it's so easy to gouge out a chunk with those things...
This just popped up on my page. Love the channel Trena! I have a couple of questions, what grit did you use to sand this down and why why didn't you just let your wife do it? 🤣.
Next time… heat gun first. Fender poly topcoat finishes are tough as nails but will respond to heat. You’ll still have plenty of sanding to do but it does speed things up. Also I’ve had luck with strippers but only after you get past the color/clear coats. PS you’re lucky there was something under the solid color worth refinishing.
WOW, what a process but so we’ll worth it! The stain on that wood is gorgeous. What want to know is how many hours did it take Mr. Trena😂 to sand through that? Beautiful job.💜
What type of wood was that? Looks like poplar to me, hardly worth such an effort, although it turned out good, still not worth it unless it was a Mahogany or Maple body, also, don't know what lacquer she's spraying, but she better start using that 300 dollar mask she's got, catalyzed lacquer is a bitch on your lungs in the long run, please don't mess them up. You can't repair them like you do furniture, I mean this in a loving way. So beautiful and talented. As a cabinet maker with experience in the matter I can honestly say you're playing Russian roulette, don't mean to be hard on you. God bless
@@johnsfurniturerepair I have exacty the same bass and looking to change the colour out. If you ever fancy another project let me know and I'd be happy to chat. I think you did any amazing job on this and would love to have you work on mine.
what a great color bass, but what ever. i hate sanding and go to the woodshop where i live and use the planer, the cylinder sander for the sides and then all thats left is the corners and the contours. i hate painting too so i just do rub on finish. inthe aerospace industry they use a striper called torco. that will work for sure but dont breath it or get it on your hands.
wouldn't a heat gun work more easier stripping than sanding ??? btw way better looking now than before that awful yellow color... nice job to both or you !
Although i like the butterscotch color, the end result was an improvement, seeing these perfect wood grains just gives me the feels. Surely feels nicer too.
why did u want to get the old paint off if you were going to paint it a solid color? Just rough it up and prime then paint right??? unless u wanted transparent black I guess
My guess it would be and automotive paint and lacquer which Has to be broken down with the MEK ( methyl ethyl ketone and is illegal in some states) Which has a very low flash point It cannot be broken down with gasoline ( so your paint doesn’t runoff when you’re gassing up your car and spill some ) or other common Oil and water based strippers what your normal use mineral spirits or water to thin with. The other easily available solution for this type of paint is brake fluid and it can break down just about any paint and lacquers, but it can soak into the wood and it can never be painting it or staining again, brake cleaner Will neutralize it Well depending on the brand on how well it works.
Fender used a Nitrocellulose finish on the older Guitars, so you would need paint stripper for that type of finish, (Like car paint stripper). Yes, I know it's to late now... 5 months to late.
back in the day, yeah. They only use nitro finishes on certain models now - mainly from the custom shop. Fender finishes on their standard ranges are now generally polyurethane. All you need to strip them is a heat gun and a paint scraper (preferably slightly blunted on the edge to prevent gouging into the wood) and the paint comes off fairly clean in relatively big chunks.
That was some good paint! Not a fan of Dremel for that use. I've got a Max oscillating spindle sander that works great. The guitar looks much better now.
@@johnsfurniturerepair I've never owned a drum sander but known guys that did. They sort of work but a small widebelt is much better. It is quick and easy to change grits on a WB and the feed system is generally decent. 24" single phase machines are available on the used market. They are simple machines, so easy to refurb. I've got an old 36" Timesaver that I bought new. Been an OK machine. @ 20 HP 3 ph. it is minimally powered. While on the subject of machines: have you looked at the Domino machines? They work really well. For a cheap & easy way to drill a dowel hole: drill a block of hard maple on the drill press. Clamp to the work to guide you hand held drill. If it is something you use often put drill bushings in it.
@@johnsfurniturerepairhi. Is it a solvent based stain please?? And for the varnish, 2k varnish, or 1k??? How many hours of drying time between the coats and sanded to what grain please??? Thank you.
I have always used a lacour sealer prior to the finishing coats. It has a sandable filler that really aids in filling the grain and makes a very nice surface for the lacour to lay down on. I have not noticed that you use the sealer. I enjoy your work.
Are you referring to sanding sealer? Or vinyl sealer? Either I use only when building a filled finish or if there are issues with the wood that I need to seal. Hasn’t happened on camera, but there are a lot of things I’ve done that aren’t on camera yet. Stay tuned. Cheers.
@@johnsfurniturerepair A precatalyzed nitrocellulose lacquer sealer. It does not fill the pours completely but it bridges them nicely. It must be sanded (220 grit) after curing and produces a fine white powder. The surface becomes silky smooth to which the final coats of lacquer lay in over slick as a whistle. I would suggest spraying the stain on a project like the guitar so as not to get any stain overlaps. There was a slight overlap on the back of the guitar. Almost imperceptible but it was there. Turned out very nice.
Have you ever tried cleaning with caustic soda (sodium hydroxide)? It is very aggressive and you have to know how to apply it. I used to clean very old furniture with it. And then hydrochloric acid was applied and quickly cleaned with water to damage the wood.
I feel that a roasted maple neck would probably compliment the new finish better. Shame about the custard yellow as I'm kinda fond of that colour, although It's all subjective of course... 😉
What a Bubba job on what was a very nice bass that had some age and character. When white gets that yellow tint to it over time it makes the guitar look awesome. The body contours look off now especially the upper and lower horns on the body. The edges of the body are gone now you sanded them right off the guitar. I hope you like it now because you have to play it.
