About your sliding around on the seat, a trick I learned at BMW performance driving school may help. After assuming your normal seat position with the shoulder belt fastened, move the seat back a small amount then give the shoulder belt a quick tug to lock it. Now, move your seat back to your normal driving position. You should now be comfortably locked onto your seat. This may take some practice to get it right but once perfected you will not slide much if at all when cornering or drifting.
Sickkk tip I’m on break rn practicing and holy shit it works I always though it was more of a safety feature but great tip on using to lock the strap just need to find a more tight position
I think it would be nice of you to show us some of the steps on doing these mods. Great content but you can help a lot of e36 owners by showing the process.
I don’t think that’s how it works. He already made a step-by-step vid on how to change your subframe/diff bushings. Just say a disclaimer before starting the process.
Weird, I just did this to mine last week! Completely agree, I wish I had done it a long time ago. So much crisper, feels like more of a sports car than ever.
@@professorfinesser6374 not sure if you're being sarcastic or not... but driving a car smoothly and efficiently puts a lot, lot less strain on the drivetrain than drifting
@@isaactourand2562 get a welded and retain the stock open diff. welded is great but open makes a better daily driver. they can be swapped over in 30-45 mins for when you wanna skid/be sensible
@@janschonfeld1494 They are on all e46. Except euro m3 i think. Removed them from several. But no need for adapter. Just remove the sandwiched plate and Connect straight to nipple. But origin is interresting.
My 130i has the coolerworks shortshifter pro and the clutch delay valve delete done and 2 of the best mods I've ever done,saving for a quaiffe diff now,enjoy the channel very much
This car is f reliable(unbreakable), I got one with 200000km and I drive it as hard as you, and still no problem (I have it 6 years and now is at 290000km ),this car is a legend that don't need a movie to become
Yeah, I did that too. Better to not run one at all if you plan to drift the car. Although, I really don't think he should be drifting this pavement princess.
The Orpheus tube is for smoother daily driving engagement for a beginner standard trans driver and to help keep from stalling. Its just a luxury car thing.. all you need to do is pull it and drill the hole out to the line diameter or inbetween if you would like a little give on engagement smoothness to help keep from breaking axles..
Just recently found your channel. I have a built sr20 s14 but have contemplated selling it to get another bmw. I've had a few e36 but never an m3. I think with the right mods, a na m3 would be really satisfying.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets what differential ratio are you running currently? If you haven't tried a 3.91 yet I highly recommend it. It completely transformed my e36 when I was drifting it. Look forward for what's next with your build. I need to start uploading. I have 100s of hours of queued shots, just too lazy to edit 🤦♂️
My first time seeing your channel. That E36 is so goddamn clean. The Halo's are stunning. My first car was a 328i E36 lemon with no traction control. Really learned how to drive and such a fun car.
you have literally the best sound on a bmw video. play this video through sub woofer equipped stereo and you can really appreciate this car. which is also sweet looking by the way well done
Literally just done this on my e46 m3,, its supercharged at 500hp, had problems with snatching 2nd and third gear, it would just light the clutch up straight away :( Was going to buy a new clutch but removed the CDV and saved myself £800!!! Clutch doesn't slip at all anymore and the 1st to second shift is amazing now!! 😍😍😍
FYI people asking why BMW fitted it: To reduce torque spikes that cause movement and acceleration of the rear subframe. Many BMW's, mainly the E46, suffer from ripping the subframe from the chassis. By smoothing the clutch, it reduces the torque spikes. If you plan on removing it and go full BRRRtt, consider reeinforcing the subframe mounts on the chassis by welding fitting plates. MIG welding works best. I'd avoid MAG or electrode welding.
Hate to break it to you, but you can do this completely for free. Just take the valve out and connect the 2 lines together. The UUC piece wont hurt anything but its an extra point for it to leak at
Thank you for this video. Drove my new to me M3/4/5 200 miles home last night and was not happy getting on the highway. Clutch slipped into 3rd and 4th, to the point that I let off. I was pissed, because the clutch is supposedly only been on there for 30k miles or so. Then I started reading about this CDV.... yea, I tried and tried to get the clutch to slip on the highway in various gears with just throttle, no dice. Slow shifting, held solid. But that is no way to drive a "motosport" car. I am coming from a 700hp B5 S4 (coming BACK to BMW now.) and granny shifting because of a factory nanny just won't cut it. But, I'll pass on double clutching.b
Wish i'd deleted the BS "clutch delay" POS when i got the car, or serviced the trans, and here i waited till the master cylinder went. You don't need to buy anything to replace it with btw, it just sit's in-line with the hose, just remove it, and reconnect the soft line back to the hard line without it.
Dragracers use it or some kind of valve alike. It's not always that if a part is on a car it has to be there in order to make the car or clutch in this case function properly.
Hey me n my bf love your channel, we watched some of your videos and we recognized some of the landscape. We think you film near where we live! My bf has an E36 too and it would be neat if yall could meet up. Hit me back if you're interested!
Its just for comfort, bmw doesn't give a fuck what you do, its literally just to make clutch engagement smoother, therefore taking off and shifts more comfortable
@@TreatsOnTheStreets I just replaced the whole line with a ss clutch line for 60$ and now I dont have to worry about a line breaking or overheating and bursting.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets how does a CDV cause premature wear on the clutch? Yes it is causing the clutch to slip a bit but it's also reducing the force/energy of an immediate engagement. Just curious I am not an expert.
@@scottmason1012 because it slips the clutch, sometimes excessively. It is especially bad when going from a stop aggressively or shifting while accelerating aggressively. It essentially rides the clutch for a small amount of time and the extra slippage wears down the clutch faster. If you do not drive your car hard it usually is not that big of a deal. If you drive like I do the slip is very noticeable.
Why would u put something instead of cdv if you can just cionnect both together and not put anything in the middle? Because threads match lol no need to buy anything. Had the same valve on my e46ci , took it out, never looked back.
exactly. my train of thought is if you're kicking the clutch constantly, would you not want to leave that part in? its going to prolong your clutch and driveline
It won't prolong your clutch it will make it wear faster. Slip and heat is what wears clutches. With the valve in, every time you kick the clutch it will slip on engagement. This valve is only useful in high power cars with weaker drivelines where they can not handle the shock of crisp engagement. Clutches will wear much less without one of these if you are hard on the car. For someone using the car as a daily driver it probably won't make much difference besides feel.
I wonder if mine even has this. I've never noticed any issues with letting out the clutch. Feels identical to the e39 M5 I had which doesn't have a cdv. My M3 will definitely grab second without thinking twice about doing a rolling burnout.
Do e46 6 speeds have this as well? My clutch slips on gear changes but i’ve never tried to clutch kick it aside from snow and it doesnt slip off the line
LOL OMG! I can't believe you waited so long to do that! You absolutely did NOT need any parts. You don't have to replace it, the fittings are identical on both sides of the valve so you can (should) just remove it and put it in your personal BMW parts museum. First thing I have done to every BMW I have bought is to replace the soft clutch line with stainless braided line, and pull out the "granny shift" valve. I have 5 of them in the top drawer of my toolbox LOL. (but I only still have 2 vehicles, E83 and E36 M3... both of which have the stainless clutch line and no valve) I will repeat... You do NOT have to replace the valve with anything. Just take it out and connect the flex line to the hardline. It screws directly together. (bonus points if you replace the spongy rubber line with braided stainless though)
Now I don’t drive a manual or know how to drive one but it seems as if the valve slows the disengaging of the clutch for daily drivers and new manual owners as to not stall
If youre gonna pursue drifting to actually try and become much better, i would advise buying a cheaper 328 thats already rusty/beat up bc in drifting one way or another youre going to crash and ik youre going to beat yourself up if you mess up with the m3, i learned that the hard way too haha
Removed the CDV from my 01 325xi years ago... for some reason I still can't drift, lol. ;) edit: I agree... having driven manual a long time removing it does make it feel more intuitive and natural again.
6:36 yea from what I've seen the cdv is vouched by drift guys running 500+ whp so that they dont rip apart their drivetrain. if you're near stock tho most likely you'd prefer it out
The only guy I've ever heard saying that is Chelsea Denofa, and while he's very knowledgeable, there's plenty of other people running way more power than he does with no cdv. I'm sure you watch Adam LZ and that's where you got it from but tbh I think he runs no Guibo and that's way more likely to be the reason why he broke a gearbox. Edit: He had a guibo before because he was on a stock drive shaft but I'm quite confident he swapped to a single piece driveshaft with no guibo when he blew the 1j that was in it
@@imnota nah I've seen it being used in other cars not just e36s. high power drift/drag cars with expensive trans/diff setups that they'd prefer to not blow up. definitely a more niche use case but that doesnt make em useless.
@@paperboy725 It's used in drag racing, and the only use is for people that don't wanna slip the clutch by themselves, but Denofa is the only guy I've ever seen using a cdv for street and drift cars.
@@imnota okay cool... Whether or not the ones I've seen were "copying" denofa, I've seen instances of other people claiming to use it/discuss using it. not sure why you seem so eager to make using a cdv a thing by denofa
just to note not all e36s have this valve. Only restyling OBDII models. Pre-rest and all OBDI don't have it. It's a simple job removing it and yes it is cheap and good 'mod'. Gavin, you'd be stoked to have sintered clutch in your vehicle then.... my wheels spin even when starting out from the idle. :D Kinda hard to live with as a daily but it's awesome for actual driving. Btw now you can do proper clutch kick... you don't need handbrake at all. Let the car roll at 4k rpm in the first gear, then clutch out to second, rev to 4.5 - 5k and let the clutch out. That's for slow 'drifting' donuts etc. you can always go faster and clutch kick in 2nd gear but i wouldn't recommend that to you yet, i'd be so sorryto see this car broken... Also re that drift event... go but not with this car. It's like a diamond, perfect condition really, your heart would break evn to scratch some paint, let alone putting a bumper or a wheel into the barricade.
There's not much to worry about at near to stock power levels as long as you're not using a highly aggressive clutch. Mine is weak so I got nothing to worry about lol
Adam lz has way more power and torque where the CDV won't really hinder things too much. It makes sense to keep if you have much stronger power than stock.
I'm a thin guy and find the vaders plenty supportive for autocross. But a racing seat definitely takes it to the next level in terms of holding you in one place.
I have a problem in my e36 and wish if i can talk to you maybe you have an answer for this one year headache over two fifties motors, appreciate if you can do this favore for me
@@Lazerrr i smell gas inside the cabinet this my main issue, first i had 1.6 engine and had the same problem then i changed it to m43 1.8is, and again, same thing, some one told me that i have to install the O2 sensor and i did, same problem, checked the Idle and its good, and after some search i found out that maybe its the air mass that is causing wrong air/gas mixture, what happens is that below 60km/hr i smell nothing ( maybe some times but rare) however above 80 the car tuns very very reach and you smell the gas very clear also i don’t even see the 140hp at all, the performance is modest compared to the engine specs and power outputs that it should give. Also some time the car wont start immediately, stalls right away, specially when its hot, and some time behaves otherwise... thats it, hope you can help cause i love the car so much and this smell is really frustrating and i can enjoy the car at all. Thanks lazer
@@safwanelarabi3286 this is somewhat of a shot in the dark, as I can't personally run any tests on the car. However, it could possibly be a leaky injector. If the injector is leaking, that could cause the stalls, and the gas smell. Like I said I'm not entirely sure, but it could be something to look into.
You need to learn more about cars. Its crazy that you're just learning about this now. You want to drift, there are things you need to know. 1.Weld your diff 2.Boost your car ASAP because those cars are DOG SHIT SLOW. 3.Get a bucket seat so you don't slide around on the leather. 4. Get a performance clutch to engage the way you need to in order to drift. 5.Get a short shifter for smoother shifting PS. I was commenting on this before I heard you comment on getting new seats. But my point proven
