Just myself and a nephew put my bed back on during restoration (8 ft bed), and this triggered the PTSD from that event. The only lift we had were 4 arms, 4 legs, and two damaged spines. ;) A quick tip: If you ever have to replace the fuel pump, you dont have to remove the bed. Just remove the left side bolts, loosen the right side bolts, and with a twoo foot long 2X4 (use the wheel well) and a floor jack, you can lift the bed enough to get to the fuel pump with little effort.
@hawkdsl Two people lifting an 8ft bed would be HARD. We just moved ours around after it was off and it wasn’t the easiest. Can’t imagine trying to get it off the truck.
@@SuburbanRanch LOL, indeed. we had to be creative (walking it like an Easter Island Moai Statue), but we got it on there. Last time that's ever going to happen! ;)
@@Pack044 If you have a engine lift, you might be able to use straps in the four corners, lift it up high enough, and drive out from under it. The bed can not be slid off. Tires will be in the way. The other option would be to sit it on jack stand, and remove the tires. It can be walked off then
Brings back memories of working on replacing the fuel pump in my 1989. I seriously considered cutting out an access panel in the bed in the event of future maintenance to the pump and avoiding this 😂 never again.
Yah, like to see this guy unbolt my hitch on my 97 Chevy k1500.......I live in st Paul MN......GOOD LUCK WITH THAT! I wouldn't even consider taking off the bed or the hitch! Up here we gotta go about doing things a little different! A lot of times we just bring the disk grinder and/or. Torch and start cutting bolts off!
Excellent! Viewed many for replacing fuel pump. None had a tow-bar!!!!! All relied for camera work on ground access, so far from clear. Have lift but occupied by 71 Olds Delta88 Convertible , using engine hoist for bed removal. 2000 Silverado 2 wheel drive, short wheel base, WITH tow bar.
Slather those bed bolts with quality anti-seize so when fuel pump time comes the bed will be easy to remove. I pull the bed bolts on every truck I own and hit them with whatever flavor of industrial anti-seize is handy (I use a variety but bed bolts aren't high temp) when I get the truck. If you don't mind some easy sheet metal work you can and I did cut an access panel over the fuel pump for easy troubleshooting and replacement. Stainless piano hinge is ideal. I didnt' bother with a latch since the panel isn't going anywhere (I did mine in 2016 and daily the truck).
Heat the bolts, I got some old pipe that fit thru frame holes ,cut about 2 foot off and took propain torch and heated up thru pipe (Heat rises) The pipe wrapped around bolt head, and that did the trick for me, the bolt sucks the heat up to loosen lock tite..and it contained heat not to bother anything around it. And by gas tank. No issues. i couldnt get them off with out heat. oh and i used a hart cordless impact that takes tires off.
Removing the bed off my 89 GMC Sierra. Watched a lot of your videos and a few others. I'm having to do this in my driveway and do not have a lift like yours however I'm told incident videos where it's done with a crane / cherry picker 1 ton hoist. My question is this, none of the videos that I've watched show how they are attaching the straps inside the tie-down pockets. Is there a certain eye bolt that you used or did you just run the straps through the holes? Some people have said that picking the bed up that way could possibly cause the outer panels to bend inward. There are some videos where people actually build an H-shaped steel frame that fits inside the bed and under the inside bed rails to lift it, but I don't have the steel or welding equipment to build one of those and my concern with that would be if it would slide out from underneath the inside bed rails when lifting the bed if it were to tilt. Could anyone please make a video or at least explain what you used or how you tied the straps down in the pocket tie downs of each corner?? Thanks
Are the bolts that hold the Bed to the frame,, are they metric or Unc thread,, someone has taken mine off and lost the bolts and the threads in the bed look damaged.. Steve in Australia
@@SuburbanRanch Thank you. Can you give a brief description in a reply of how you did that? 1. Tools used; grinder?, what kind of pads, wire brushes, etc.? 2. Paint/primer used 3. Process used; what were the steps you used to complete that job? I guess you sanded the frame down to the metal and then primed and painted it? If you could take a piece of a frame and go through that briefly in a video it would be extremely helpful! A lot of us are dealing with significant rust on the frame.
@davidschmitt3030 Our truck wasn’t that rusty (southern truck) so the job wasn’t as bad as yours might be. We used any and all things to scuff and remove debris from the surface. Wire brushes, sanding pads, scrappers. Once it was cleaned and scuffed we followed the directions from the paint manufacturer. We used Rustoleum primer and paint. It was a terrible job and I don’t ever want to do it again!
Okay I have a question I have a 1994 K 2500 with the 14 bolt full float in the rear it has 410 gear ratio in the rear what do you think you would have in the front 4:10 4:11 or 4:09