It is a great product. I use it on my copper jewelry I am a metalsmith. But, even better is: Protectaclear..it is an oil and it is hypoallergenic. Great cover and shine. Try it!
I use Renaissance wax as a finisher. On metals, coins, and chromed items, I use "Mothers mag and aluminum polish". I apply it via a Dremel buffing pad. Try it, you won't be disappointed. Its brilliant stuff. Once you have a brilliant shine, apply two or three coats of the renaissance wax polishing by hand. It acts as an anti-tarnish and keeps that great shine shining..lol
I use this stuff on ALL of my firearms and metal / aluminum magazines and can't say enough of how great of a product this is! My IWB holster and carry firearms absolutely love the stuff as well. I've even used a light coating on my flat / limited texture polymer things like lower pistol frames, pmags and I swear it gives them a better texture when handling as well as helps darken the polymer just a tiny bit to the point where they look like when I first purchased them. For awhile I used to use the karate kid technique when applying.... 2 microfiber rags, one wet, one dry, wax on wax off. Now I just simply use 1 rag and apply just a tiny bit of extra pressure until the film look is so thin that it sinks in the rest of the way on its own. Love love love the stuff!
I apply it Extremely Sparing...right after which (while it is still soft)...gently buff with a mirofiber cloth and allow the fibers in the clothe to move the Renwax evenly on the object.
I started metal detecting in the summer of 2019, it is January 2020, I found an 1842 lock and recently purchased this product. Thank you for your video.
Hello my friend. I just want to say thank you again for the amazing gift. I gave you a shout out on the intro of my last video. I will treasure that knife forever! I will be in contact soon, keep up the good work. Onwards, upwards and thank you so much again. Best regard, TGV
Hi TGV ! I was actually watching your video right at this moment ! What a surprise I had at the beginning of the video ! Thank you so much and I'm so happy that you like the knife :-) I thought it was very different than the other ones you already have. So glad it arrived, I'm always afraid parcels get lost ... All thanks to YOU and keep up the good work ^^ Matt
I use it on my Damascus blades. I heat the blade slightly with a heat gun then brush a light coat on melts evenly on the warm blade then let it set up and buff with microfiber
I got a sword from my blacksmith friend, and when I first got the sword I was using baby oil each month. I had a big event happen and I missed oiling awhile and got rust. He suggested Ren wax for the entire sword, hilt and blade to prevent rust. Hence I'm here for application instructions! Give it a shot in your blade, should be fine!
I've had it highly recommended by my blacksmith friend. If you collect metal objects like swords or firearms, this stuff is great for stopping rust in case you miss an oiling.
I use Ray's Gun Wax which has refined mineral oil and is similar to Renaissance Wax , both are petro chemicles and are non-digestible and need to be kept away from children.
I used to use the same thing until I came across this absolutely AMAZING product. When applied properly with a microfiber rag and very sparring amount it works better than any similar product that I've ever used and I've collected so many different cleaning and preserving products over the years.... Nothing comes close to this stuff. I even use it on all my metal/aluminum magazines as well as my polymer pmags and polymer lower pistols where there's thin to no added texture, "not like the raised polymer designs and shapes on a pistol to give extra purchase/bite for better grip on a pistol." I've used it on firearms ranging from a war time aged Mosin & KAR to my ruger and Daniel defense AR's and my ccw holsters and polymer glocks and Walther pdp just drink the stuff up and keep it looking like the day I purchased!
I use this wax on my target pistols and it looks great and lasts a long time (6 months to a year). It gives the guns a beautiful shine that doesn’t show fingerprints. I cringed at your use of a coarse paper towel to apply and polish it. Your knives and tops are beautiful and probably expensive; please invest in micro fiber cloths and you’ll get even better results without the risk of scratching the metal. Micro fiber cloth used to be expensive but not any longer. You can also wash the cloths in a washing machine and make it like new.
Thanks 😊 These are not for sale, they are either mine or belong to other collectors. But I have the project of creating an online store with really cool and unique products (knives and others ...). So I'll let you know about that if you're interested. Thanks for your comment 😊
About the set up you can watch my video in which I show how I make them, my set up is listed in the description of the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w_5IwtRod08.html Hope it helps
Rice Gotaar you can it won't hurt it but it works best on thing's you're not going to be handling to stop tarnishing. Your car you're going to be washing and waxing so it's not needed as much more for collectables put in a showcase
If my experience of cast iron plane bodies is anythign to go off, apply sparingly and it dries really quickly. Minutes later, you can do the same again.
Any one try this with bronze? I used this stuff on my little brother's Lazer edge plate on his grave and it protected it well. But now it's turned white and pasty and have no idea how to safely remove it with out scratching. Specially around the letters. I've tried dawn soap with micro fiber cloths. Maybe real soft sand paper?
It's used in the Smithsonian for all their bronze and other metal artworks. It does absolutely amazing on everything it touches when properly applied with a microfiber rag. Never use anything else to touch the wax, especially your skin. A microfiber rag with a very sparing amount on whatever you need to apply it to is beyond perfect for its application.
@@TerminalM193 what would you use to remove the old residue? I’ve been trying to remove it from all the laser edged letters and I can’t seem to get it with just rubbing it with a clean rag. I’ve tried all sorts of gentle soaps and platinum dawn soap. I’ve heard some recommend lemon juice others saying that would damage it. The same with Vinegar. Other than that it does look amazing when reapplied everywhere else!
@@jorgewuzhear Just to be certain, you're looking to remove previously applied Renaissance on the headstone in order to apply a new coat right? When I very first started using this stuff I would get that exact same coat on some of the stuff I would apply it to that would see more harsh conditions compared to something under cover or inside. I found that I was not properly cleaning the surface before applying the wax and the film was from the layer that couldn't penetrate past whatever was blocking its way AS WELL AS using too much product. On the few occasions where I wanted to remove the wax from a surface that was not properly applied I would first start with warm soap and water which did the trick for wood and some smoother type metals but for brass I ended up using either ballistol which did the trick on acouple occasions but now my absolute go to is a product called clenzoil which is sold mainly as a CLP. Idk how much knowledge you may have with firearms so I'll explain the product. CLP stands for CleanLubeProtect and military forces around the world have adopted various different types and brands of CLP as their go to product for doing exactly what is in the name, cleaning various types of machinery while at the exact same time lubing and protecting. It really is an amazing product and functions extremely well for an all in one.... BUT..... Not all CLPs are alike.... In almost all cases and products of clp there won't be any type of chemical strong enough to hurt or degrade other materials but some can discolor wood, polymer, marble etc. This is why I go with clenzoil. It's a much more mild clp while still being able to clean like the more aggressive CLPs yet has much better lubricity for the lubing and protecting portion. My wooden stocks and leather boots absolutely LOVE the stuff and drink it up and look brand new after sitting with a thick coat for a few hours but what's also great is like in your case you don't really want it to do so much penetration but rather cleaning. Instead of letting it sit and give it time to form a bond with the brass what you can do is first start with a section of the brass that's of less notice so you can see how it will react first before going all in. Apply a light amount to a rag or soft bristle brush like a toothbrush, lightly work it into the brass and take a nice clean rag and wipe away the excess that is formed by the friction you are applying with the brush. Once serviceable you can take your clean rag and wipe up as much as you can and let whatever has penetrated dry. You'll now have a nice coat of clp across the entire area that you're working with which is a good thing. Then you go with the karate kid technique and a very sparing amount of wax on a nice clean microfiber, "WAX ON, WAX OFF!". I've found that the clenzoil works very well with the renaissance in helping bond and penetrate whatever medium you're working with. Just be very light with the wax and don't be afraid to work it in with Alittle extra pressure but not too much if you get what I mean. Also, try and do this on an early evening, on like a mild or warm spring like day where there's not abunch of humidity in the air, giving your process time to fully bond with as little resistance possible since you'll be out in the elements.... Sorry for such a long message, hopefully I understood what you were asking but if I missed your point then oh well, no harm no foul there lol! Clenzoil can be Alittle pricey, especially if you don't plan on using it for many things other than your current project. If you would like to try the stuff before you buy I do have a tiny little bottle I wouldn't mind sending you as long as you're within country or if there's an efficient way to mail something across lines let me know because I've never done so. rianaro88@gmail.com
...ce serait bien de parler français, çà ce fait pour un français non!! l'anglais c'est bien mais systématiquement ça commence nous casser les bonbons....
