Handy video mate, cheers. I just did the 2 front ones on mine and found that one damper rod was an 8mm hex while the other was 6mm. Must've been changed before, as the spring looked newer too.
Nice and informative video and better than one from autodoc. Today I attempted to replace struts but I couldn't get the upper mount under the bonnet loose. I actually bent the 6mm hex lol. It's now in penetrating fluid and hopefully it will come loose tomorrow
Use a wire brush to get the crud off of the threads before u try to spin the nut so it wont get stuck. Or cut the exposed part of the thread off with a dremel. Just did this job today myself. Wasn't too bad.
Thanks! I'm soon to upload some other Clio videos: my central locking actuators are intermittant, both (I think) front wheel bearings are making an unhappy noise, the aux belt needs replacing and the injection EML light has just come on. I guess this is what happens when you pile the miles onto a shopping trolley...
Just remember before you do this job to measure the bolt center to center distance on the strut as there are 2 different sizes for the Cilo (54mm and 58mm), Renault do this sort of thing alot and it's a mega pain they don't follow a consistent parts line for the full length of production
Good job, couple of things of note. Avoid using impact wrench on coil spring compressors, hand tighten only. Also having done several springs in my time and getting older I think I'll probably invest in a hydraulic spring compressor. You can pick one up for £100 which is very reasonable.
Yeah, I agree that the impacting motion is probably not good when the spring is under compression with cheap, mechanical compressors. I usually use hand tools but simply wanted to save time! I didn't know that hydraulic compressors were so cheap to be honest, that's something else on the tool list now... Thanks for the comment.
It's a Norbar torque wrench: made in the UK and widely considered to be very good. I bought it online a while back. Hint: as far as I'm aware the Halfords torque wrenches are manufactured by Norbar, which is why they look so similar in design. This certainly used to be the case anyway, but may have changed in recent years.
Hi liked the video can I ask what brand ofshock absorber you used as I've just bought some kyb items an they don't return to the fully extented position like you showed in the video and I thought all shock absorbers should do this both of the kyb are the same so I was thinking that's how renault designed them
Hi Gareth, I've only seen shock absorbers that return but that doesn't necessarily mean that other types are wrong. I bought Sachs units for my car, I think fromECP.
i cannot get those 18 mm bolts out the nuts come off but the bolts wont budge tries beating them still will not budge sprayed them to death with Q10 nothing WHY thanks
Unfortunately that's likely the result of salty winter roads over the years. I hate rust. I've had much more success with heat (basic blowtorch) than wd40. If you've got access to oxy acetylene, then even better. Good luck.
I did not know that, no. That's very useful information; thanks for sharing. Are the Renault part numbers the same across the marks? I can see how they might be for the ubiquitous 1.2 petrol but the 1.5dCi was mk2-only so I wonder if it had a counterpart in the mk1 lineup. Perhaps the 1.9 diesel?
Dat moertje is bijna 2 keer dikker zoals bij mij. Als de poot eronder en op zijn wielen zit is't ok. Ik verwissel dat even met een breder moer. Zoveel kg veerkracht!!!!
If it's not worn or otherwise defective, it's fine to re-use. I wouldn't replace one if I didn't have good cause to. Remember, you might be replacing a high quality OE part (albeit slightly old and with a few miles) for a no-name cheapie pattern part that may not actually outlast it, despite being new.
@@KomradeShotabollokov hi mate thanks for replying first off. once I get the part off would you mind me sending you a picture as a second opinion is always good thanks again for replying mate your help is much appreciated
I imagine that is technically correct however I can't see how the nut could rise up and over the threads of the piston under the pressure of the coil spring. The shearing force require to achieve this would be considerable, and far in excess of the force capable of being supplied by the coil spring. Additionally, the only way the nut could unwind through many turns to pop off the top of the piston would be if the setup were to be subject to significant vibration for a significant time. In the end I judged that the risk of the nut moving off the end of the piston was very low.
