Renault Scenic Dashboard Repair. Fix Digital Dash Panel. Mend Faulty/Failed Display. 

+Keefy310857 Hi Yes, it's a Surface Mount Device / Fuse. I know this now, I just called it a resistor by mistake in the video. The one I did not use I sold on ebay recently.

+Keefy310857 I've just added some speech bubbles in the video to help correct the mistake now. hopefully everybody can see them, thanks.

+ifitsgotwheels Me again. Now display is working continuously by wifey reports clock and trips reset on restart. Fuse not blown, What next ? MOSFET ? Could it be as simple as low battery voltage/knackered battery (12.1 V after a run) ? All advice gratefully received. Thanks.

+ifitsgotwheels PS What exactly does the MOSFET do ?

+Keefy310857 hi, yeah before going to the trouble of desoldering around the panel to replace a MOSFET, eliminate the battery as the problem first. I am told that 12.1 volts after a run is only about a 25% charge (a fully charged battery will be more like 12.6 volts), so you may want to get the battery tested at a local car shop first, as they usually have a tested that will test the battery under load. Charge it up beforehand though if you can. With headlights on, a good battery should still start a car with lights just dimming slightly, a weak battery and lights will almost fade out, or car won't start. You can also test a battery with your voltmeter as the engine is being cranked, a good battery should really stay above 11 volts. 9 volts and the battery needs replacing or recharging. It is possible that your battery has just been hit by the recent cold spell (the one in my car has!) this time of year at the start of the cold weather hits batteries hard. A normal full charge may start the vehicle, but even after a run you find the situation has not changed and you have to charge it again! I always find it is best if I can charge a battery for 3 full days!!! (in or out the vehicle), that it conditions up the battery much better, and have often used this to revive many a believed dead battery.

Good one.

+Blue Chip Thanks. & thanks for watching :)

First of all, just try removing the connectors to the dash panel and reconnecting them as somtimes this is where a flickering dash problem lies. Hopefully this will resolve your problems without having to buy any parts or trying any further fixing/soldering.

@@ifitsgotwheels Bro, I suspect it's not as serious as the repairman here told me by not even looking at the dash for a second. I will go ahead and try. I am so thankful bro for your quick reply! I will follow up with some new info, hopefully tomorrow. Thank You mate!

@@pistakoja1873 Hey there. Did it solve your problem in the end? I have exactly this issue right now. It is flickering and it is making beep sounds.

+Michael Robinson Hi i have the same problem, have you resolved it and if so how?

It depends what you're talking about. The dashboard worked for a couple of weeks and then it started to go wonky again. I suspect this is because the solder I used was lead free - this makes the solder quite brittle so I'm looking for some leaded solder currently and will re-do the job. I have no idea how to reset the miles - it probably needs a special computer thingy to do this (look up mileage correction) but in all honesty I can't picture anyone buying our Renault so it doesn't really matter - electric windows don't work, fan doesn't work, A/C doesn't work etc. The simplest resolution is to probably just buy a ford.

Hopefully it's just the either or both of the 2 wiring hanks not quite clipped in at the back of the dash display. Sometimes the connections are not 100% and cause dash or radio display probs. On my other vids I have the dash removal vid, unclip the wire hanks (1 red , 1grey connectors) then reattach them again, hopefully it will be as simple as this and it's also free and easy thing to try first anyway. If that does not solve it then only on closer inspection of the circuit are you likely to see any bad solder joints, to check capacitors or resistor parts you may need a local electronic person to help you.

Tried, but still same prob. I have original renault clip. Its showing problem on the dash. It’s telling me 12v missing somewhere. I think i need the diagram for the connectors. The are possibility to have an other 12v line.

No sorry. The car belonged to relatives and apart from the dash fault and oil leak it pretty much looked after them the way they looked after it. They reluctantly let me go near it the last week they owned it as they wanted me to try and sell it, but I fixed everything I could first then sold it to some happy buyers. I did not have any wiring diagrams I just watched the french versions of fixing the dash and tried to do what I saw there making an English version as I went along, thanks.

+Marc van der Linden sorry I no longer have the vehicle or any wiring diagrams for it. I was going to suggest the sender, so at least you have started in the right place. are there any wires at the connector that match up to the colours of the ones at the sender, that's all I can suggest without knowing!

Yes, that was it.

@@ifitsgotwheels wow cheers! Didn't expect a reply on a old vid lol. Thanks for your time! may I ask, My Dashboard has just stopped working. Renault Quoted me 481 to replace the cluster. They said they'd have paid if the car was under 10 years old but it is an 04 plate lol. I have bought a new one from ebay which I am going to swap to, but I'd really like to fix mine if I can and retain the correct mileage. Should I just check for dry soulder joints? Like I said the unit was absolutely fine then just stopped working. no flickering or clock malfunction etc.

OJust2C Yes you have to desolder it and bend it open (sorry I should have shown this but I had that bit done for me!), see the french version here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UUcnZQbhVvc.htmlm36s as that shows how.

ifitsgotwheels WOW: Prompt reply. Thanks will follow up.

+Mechanic Darren Hi on this dash it still worked and the little fuse hadn't popped, but the fuse maybe what's gone on yours. First though I would locate & check the main fusebox (although I don't know where it is, and check any fuses there.). Also worth checking is the red connection to the digital dash, sometimes a waggle will bring it back on, sometimes disconnect & reconnect may do to, if the fault is with the wiring or the connection. Then if you have to undo the dash, check all the solder joints you can see, as a dry solder joint may equal a lost connection. (I needed a camera to see them better than my eyes could though!) Anything electric is a pain when it's not working, so I hope you can find & sort it easily. best of luck, thanks.

Ozkan Toptas yes, although what I call a resistor is actually a fuse. So look for a 6.5A SMD (or SMT) fuse. Thanks

hi, has it worked for you in the past? If 'NO', and you bought the vehicle like this then it could be because a previous owner has replaced the dash at some point, (it seems there are two types of radio and the dash must match the correct radio!?). but as to whether that would just knock out the radio display, or the radio/clock/temp display I cannot confirm! If 'YES', then I will have to best guess this, (as I no longer have the scenic to test any of this). 1. I would check the fuse, as in many vehicles the clock and the radio can be found on the same one. The fuses I believe are located in/around the glove box area, but from what I read can be difficult to get to! Usually a guide to what fuse is what should be in the same area or on the back of any flap you have to remove. You can try swapping fuses of the same value, but often you will be able to tell if a fuse has blown when you remove it as you will see a split in the the metal. 2. (or, if fuses above look difficult to get to try this first) I would remove the dash panel, disconnect the two clips and reconnect them as it could just be that one has vibrated loose a little or come off. I think, but can not be sure, that the red clip may power up the right hand side of the dash (anyone know?). Although taking the dash out is easy is does require a Torx screwdriver, sorry. Also waggle the wires before/after as it could be a break in the cables. 3. I can't find any answers to this fault on the internet so far, but it seems that it is indeed a problem. So if you have to get the circuit board looked at as it has been suggested to me that it could just be dry solder joints affecting the board particularly at or near the connectors. You may be able to inspect the board yourself, but even I had difficulty seeing dry joints on this one, so use a zoom camera if you have one. I hope it turns out to be an easy fix. thanks.

+Lewis Ross Hi I got it off ebay from a UK seller for £3.12, I can't find any on their right now under MOFSET F3710S! searching just IRF3710S and it seems a couple of sellers currently have them listed but at around £10 each, but in the UK. thanks.

Why not a better mosfet whit less RS ON will help alot on the heat of the board.

yes, what I call a resistor is actually a fuse. So look for a 6.5A SMD (or SMT) fuse. I did add a correction message of that part in the vid, but youtube recently removed that feature! I never updated the text on the page though so will correct that now, thanks.

THX, I have to help a friend with this problem. this helped. You are the man...

Most cars if they are from the same model & engine are just a straight swap, it is normally when ECU's are swapped that you need various things together like keys and immobiliser units. I don't know much about electricals or Renaults (only ever had this Renault for 10 days!) so do not know whether the immobiliser would form part of the dash unit, as that to me would be the most likely source of not being able to make it possible.

+Billy Quilligan Hi Billy, I really like Fuerteventura, I went there once on holiday with my brother & his family. I no longer have the scenic as it was my Sister-in-laws, and I only had it for the last 10 days they owned it, so know very little about them. You can easily remove the dash panel surround (see my other vids) so it would be worth doing that just so you can help locate where the noise is actually from. I am not sure where the tiny air-con air sampling fans are located on the Renault as those are known to make a noise, the one on my old Rover does, but on my Rover it needs the key in the ignition before you hear it, as the Scenic we had was a keycard I am not sure when it would come on but there is a possiblity that it may actually be activated from the drivers door system, i don't know. The drivers door itself may be the cause, or whatever it switches in the dash panel, I just would not know. It is worth asking or seaching on the Renault forums as that's how I found many of the answers I needed before making the videos. If you want you can open the dash panel up if you do want to take a look inside it, as often on a circuit board if there is a problem it can often be seen where a component has burnt out, worth trying to see dry solder joints/cracks too, but sometimes they are hard to find, but looking costs you nothing (as long as you have a torx bit to remove the screws) and it's easy to open up the dash panel. Whatever it is I hope it's an easy fix. At least you have better weather there to work outside, thanks.

+ifitsgotwheels Hahahaha yeah I suppose you are right about the weather.But the way I feel now I would rather walk or take the bus LOL. Thanks a million for your insight.I will try get the screwdriver and take a look at the unit myself.OR JUST GET IN THE PASSENGER DOOR IN FUTURE HAHAHAHA Thanks again, Have a nice afternoon, Billy.

Billy Quilligan hello pléiade mail , scania71100@hotmail.fr

attaf abdel I dont understand your comment.

Do you have the application to run or tell me what device you use thanks

+Anthony Mobbs Hi, the resistor is a Surface Mount Device/Fuse or SMD fuse (aka SMT!). Unfortunately although I just bought mine from ebay I don't seem to be able to find any listed on there now, and no longer have the vehicle / paperwork to see which ebay seller I bought it from sorry.

+Anthony Mobbs - I discovered the resistor, next to the wire inductor was open circuit. However it is not a resistor. In fact it is a SMD 6.5 amp fuse. I discovered this once I had checked it and found it was open circuit. On my display it is a white component with a mark in blue "6.5" . With the help of a tech savvy mate we identified it and I replaced it. Problem solved.

+Anthony Mobbs PS Get it from Farnell or any component supplier. Fiddly soldering though. Good luck - hope not too late to help.

+Keefy310857 ok i called it a resistor by mistake. (we all make them sometimes.) yes it was a SMD fuse. I sold mine on ebay recently, perhaps it was you that bought it. thanks. I will put a note on the video now so that it's clearer to all! thanks.

+ifitsgotwheels I didn't mean to take any value away from your very useful post. Without it I wouldn't have even known where to start. Thanks once again. Indeed we do all make mistakes ! Mine was to buy this Scenic. Mechanically unbeatable but, in common with many French marques, terrible electrics. My good lady is French and her last car, a Pug 306 1.9 litre NA diesel went on forever but electrics - nightmare !!!

It's code for the radio. Because when computer reset, radio also lock itself, and you need to put the code for the radio to unlock it.

Hi when I try typing F3710S, cheapest are £1.10 each or £1.80 a pair but these are from China so would take a 2/3 weeks to arrive. Tried typing IRF3710S and UK seller selling for £2.57 with same day freepost. Try this link www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161963866971 thanks ;)

No, the mileage did not get reset. We were afraid it would, and so we took a note (& photo's) of it just in case, but on this occasion the odometer mileage was still present afterwards. We did not have to have it re-programmed in, thanks :)

ifitsgotwheels oh okay. Mine has been reseting and flickering. I took a picture of tje mileage being 48k on the 8th and today it went up to 59k. I already bought the parts. how can I fix this? Will it stay on 59k? Please help

trulypsychogaming Hi, I think that once the mileage has jumped up, then, after fixing the dash, unfortunately it is the jumped up figure that will remain. but fortunately you can get the mileage corrected, you can have this done professionally but it seems that those cheap 'OBD2 Bluetooth Adapters' that cost around £3 upwards on ebay when used with a mordern bluetooth phone will do the trick for you! (although I did not have to buy one in the end, so have not tried the correction myself). This is only illegal if you are trying to doctor your mileage, but to put it back to the actual genuine mileage would be fine.

Trulypsychogaming I had a 1k added (in Austria) because of the same problem. Left the "Speed Limiter" active and then when the screen clicks in and out (while solving my problem) the default screen is not the Odo Meter.

OJust2C my one went 100k, got the dash changed for £150 at Renault

Yames Enterprise hmm. it's working on my mobile! maybe try again another time

Hi yes I am still here. How can I help? Thanks.

+ifitsgotwheels I have taken my dash apart like your last video instructed no my digital display kept going dim and bright only on the clock and radio side now it has gone out completely leaving all the rest of it working is there anything specific as to what has turned that side of ? is it a fuse any light you shed will be of great help I don't have funds to send to someone to repair

Hi when this happens it can be caused by bad/dry solder joints at the connector. I am not sure which connector did the clock the grey or the red one as we only had the vehicle a few days (these are the two connectors you pull off to release the dash panel), but that is where I would be looking.

+ifitsgotwheels shall I just warm up each solder again with an iron or ?

+ifitsgotwheels the grey one as soon as plug in turns on the left hand side might do the right hand side but obviously I won't know lol