Hey David, excellent informational video, thank you guys very much! Wondering if you can chime in your opinion on following: So, with this kit in place (installed exactly as the video shows, except I have the 30A charger) and if I want to use the Renogy 20A AC-To-DC LFP Portable Battery Charger to charge my house battery from the wall outlet (110V AC), do I just clamp the charger's alligator clamps to the house battery for charging, or do I need to disconnect ANY lines from the system first? In the other words is the AC charger just a simple add-on or it requires some work around to prevent the rest of the system from being damaged...? Cheers from Vancouver. Thanks, Nash
@@alopandur thanks! I don’t have any experience with that charger but i don’t see why you would have an issue simply connecting the clamps and charging the system.
@@madetoexplore Thank you, I am wondering if charging the LiFePo directly could send some feedback to the charger and "confuse" it or damage the circuit somehow... Sent the question to the Renogy, but no answer yet... Will post here if I hear from them... Cheers, Nash
@@alopandur I charge my batteries using my Renogy inverter/charger via shore power with no problems at all! It’s essentially the same thing you’re planning on doing.
@@madetoexplore Many thanks David. How/where do you connect your leads from the external charger? I do not use the inverter, only the DC-DC MPPT 30A Charger between my car (service) and my Lithium (house) batteries, and just run 2 dual 12V to 5V USB convertors of the house battery to charge my devices, or run my LED cabin/camp lights and 5V heated blanket while on the road. Should I wire my 110V charger in to the DC-DC MPPT 30A Charger somehow (where?), or clamp it straight to the Lithium (house) battery posts - which was my original concern, if I did it that way, would I be sending some weird signal/power back to the charger and would I be damaging anything?
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ru-vid.comUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
I like how straight-forward this video is. Most useful. So many videos are annoying or misleading because they start with "Hey guys,..- and then tell us a bunch of extraneous stuff. This video would be even better if it had an electrical diagram. I am about to make my own electrical diagram from it now. You have followed the main principle in explaining a process. "Keep it simple stupid" or KISS. Nice job. Very nice job. My issue for some time has been how to compact my system like the way it is done in a van. You guys who work in vans are really good at this. However, I also see mistakes in van builds because the batteries are put way too close to the charger/inverter. All of the manuals say that batteries close to a charger can cause fires. This video does it correctly.
Thank you for this video!!! I'll be installing this tomorrow but not the 50 AMP, but the 30 AMP. I just hope I made the right choice for my ambulance build. ❤🚑❤
Hi great Video, we are the distributor for Renogy, and as mentioned below by another viewer, the relay that is triggered with ignition will open circuit the solar input, so that charger takes 50AMP. But 1 thing I notice is your fuse from the starter is near the charger "ALT" input, I suggest to move that fuse to the engine compartment, near the positive of the starter battery instead. At the moment you have no protection on the cable from the positive to the fuse, which is probably using 50 or 25amps, and this wire is exposed to all sorts of harsh environment. Not pointing you out here, just trying to keep you safe.
Is it possible to get the whole 50A charge from just the alternator alone? I haven't got the solar on yet and the most charge i can get is 22amps and if wired up the same as you, thanks
@@madetoexplore It also depends at what stage of charge is your battery, as battery reaches towards the full charge, the charger steps down current and voltage. It is only in the bulk/boost stage that you get the full capacity of the charger. Each battery chemistry has it's own boost/float stages and hence the charger will adjust to the profile selected on the charger for that particular batter type.
was about to leave the exact same comment .. should be fused at the starter battery side. though technically the renogy trickle charges the starter battery from solar when the house battery is full, but you can't exactly fuse for that on the same run :)
Thanks for the video and the shutoff trick. I'm installing the 30A on my sailboat. If I need to motor due to lack of wind then this will come in handy. Thanks as well for the 5% code. Made use of that and saved a few bones on my order. If you're ever on Vancouver Island I'll buy you a beer. Cheers.
Just to Update : As a Renogy Ambassador the latest releases of the DC-DC/MPPT unit have had the Auto-Sensing Software updated and it is NOT necessary to hook up the Smart Ignition Vcc+ to a live ignition source. The unit will detect when ; a) Your Alternator begins to charge and b) When Pv ( solar )input goes below the minimum useful level. *** However, If you do have a Smart Alternator or upgraded style Alternator with an output over 100amps it is best to use that connection. However, it MUST be connected to that Smart Alternator and not just an ignition Vcc+ Another connection I saw on your install was connecting the Pv ( solar ) Negative to your Bus Bar , when in fact it should be on the Ground Lug of the unit itself. This helps to achieve more accurate monitoring from your Pv data as a "Virtual Shunt" in the Renogy App. Also what I didn't see in your setup was a Protective Breaker coming from your Solar into the Unit. This can be important in case of a Pv surge or even worse a lightning strike that would destroy parts of your system. A solar combiner box is a handy tool with breakers that not only protects equipment But also allows you to have multiple panels on the roof AND quickly and easily add a Portable Solar Array on the ground for increased charging of even a " quick setup " Wind Generator into one of the combiners inputs. Hope these notes are helpful to someone. Note I generally build systems for sailing yachts but recently have done a few Nomad Vans , including my own with my soon to be activated channel " Captain Vantastic " Cheers -- Merry Christmas 🎄 and Take Care Friends ....
Appreciate the updates! Does it still prioritize solar over the alternator? Would be nice if they changed that to maximize input. My panels are individually fused to protect each panel and the controller 👍
@@madetoexploreThe software now no longer prioritizes solar , it utilizes the best option or combination to achieve the 30amp or 50amp charge, depending if you have the 30a or 50a model.
Is this a software or hardware update? I’ve read somewhere a new version accepts 50v solar input, I’m hesitant to purchase one, as I’m unsure I will get the latest version. Also, will it now, Instead of prioritizing, charge at full 30/50amps from alternator if solar isn’t sufficient in charging (such as low sun light or night driving) I’ve read a few people could not get over 40 amps on the 50amp model. Thank you!
I'd like to suggest an automatic option to avoid the need to use the large rotary switch on your solar feed. I would suggest using a CHANGEOVER RELAY instead of the switch. Wired in such a way that when the ignition is OFF the relay will be closed, which will mean the solar panels are inputting power. When you fire up the engine, the changeover relay will turn off the solar input so you will get full input from the alternator.
Yes, this would work well and I have thought about installing one of these. I very rarely have to turn off the solar so I haven’t been in a rush. Do you have a specific switch that you would recommend?
@Made to Explore bearing in mind that I'm in Australia, I'm not sure if the products I have access to, would be available where you are. Having said that, we have a brand called Narva who make all sorts of 12v gear. Their part number is 68048BL for the changeover relay I'd recommend. It also depends on how much solar input you have. These relays are only rated for 30 to 40 amps, but that should be plenty for most people.
I did mine this way after watching this and it works perfectly (thanks to your video 🙌) as long as I remember to turn the solar back on after I get done driving 🤦♂️😂 did that last trip 😂 anyway I believe my alternator is factory 150 amp and it just recently went out. I was thinking of putting a 200 amp in but don’t know if I need to upgrade wiring or fuses or if I should just stick to the 150 amp. Also I’m guessing the alternator going out was just a coincidence and hopefully not a result of something I did 😳🤦♂️😂 I wired my dc to dc same as you did and hooked it to my positive on my battery. Works exactly as you described here. I love having that option to get so much more amps while driving. That originally was my only reservation about this renogy was the limited capacity. I have the 06 t1n 2500 👍
That’s great! Upgrading to the 200 amp alternator isn’t a bad idea at all. It’s also common for some of the connections around the turbo to leak down and ruin the alternator. Be sure to keep an eye out when you replace the alternator!
the alternator must be running over idle for cooling, at idle the air flow is very poor and it is a known issue with automotive high current alternators that have high charge capability at low engine revs, other wise great video thank you.
At last thank you someone that has explained the 50 amp from alternator problem & solution along with the ignition wire connection & what to not / do. You Star !!!
My understanding as to why Renogy designed the DC DC charger to pull a max of 25 amps from the alternator is to protect alternators from damage if they are not designed to produce that much more current. Many alternators just dont have the build strength to regularly produce up to 50 ADDITIONAL amps beyond what is being pulled to supply the vehicle's electrical systems. Say when you're climbing a hill or towing a load, your alternator has to work much harder to generate the amperage to safely power your car's computers and electronics. So it is really important to know, not guess, if your particular alternator and charging system can safely produce an additional 50 amps continuously without actually overheating and being damaged.
This is very true. However, it would have been nice if Renogy allowed the user to decide on how many amps they pull from the alternator. It is easy to upgrade alternators which I have done. I installed a 150 amp alternator in our Sprinter which replaced the existing 90 amp one. That’s 60 additional amps that should allow me to charge my batteries without an issue.
That is exactly why they do it. As an alternator is not just supplying 50 amps. When you start an engine. You have 30 maps just to run the fuel system. Another 10 amps to recharge the battery. Then with all the Can Bus Modules add in another 20 amps. You are now at 110 amps. Without any thing else it's supplying like coils. As each coil takes 7-8 amps.. And no damn alternator can do that from idle. It will over heat and fry it. You need to be above 2500 rpm. Never mind vehicle alternators are cooled from the air flow while driving. That little fan is only for stop lights. Unless you have a Diesel. They are more tolerant of output at idle. But I would not count on it lasting long. Unless you invest in a high-end alternator designed for idle charging above 140 amps for prolonged periods of time. Something the Car Audio guys figured out fast. As they install 4000 watts of amplifiers..
@@madetoexplore No it doesn't.. That rated output is based on RPM's above 2500. While moving. I got a 250 amp alternator. It only produces 75 amps at idle with an overdrive pulley on it..It also has a huge ass heat sink. As that heat has to go somewhere..
@@WizzRacing I don’t spend a lot of time just idling so I’m not that worried about it and I rarely pull 50 amps from the battery anyway. I guess installing a switch near the drivers seat and only switching it on at highway speeds would help resolve this issue? Or upgrading the alternator again which would also be an easy job. My alternator has about 20,000km on it so far and is performing great 👍
@@madetoexplore My advice is take it too a good known alternator\starter place. Have them test the output at idle and under load...Then have the DC-DC charger run at 50 amps.. And make sure they can print out the results. So you can see it.. And be advised. The more an alternator puts out. The bigger the casing gets. Why most RV's today have two alternators. It's just cheaper and more reliable. As some of these high output alternators get real expensive..And if you ever need one repaired. You have to wait till they get to you. As there not a stocked item at automotive parts places. As I learned all these problems 20 years ago the hard way...
An obvious thing to do here would be to install a 'normally on' relay in line with solar powered by the ignition wire so when the engine is running it shuts off solar automatically?
Yeah that would be another option but 95% of the time I don’t require the full 50amp draw from the alternator. I also think installing a manual shut off switch is easier than a relay for the average diyer.
Hi, thank you very much great video. I'm glad to hear that adding the ignition wire to a Smart alternator will allow for higher charging rates. I'm still curious on why that works?
That + 4 gauge runs all the way passed the other side of the fuse to the alternator? Or does it go smaller gauge? Looks smaller on the starter battery.
It’s 4 awg all the way. The fuse should be installed on the starter battery to protect the wire as well. I relocated mine and switched it out for a terminal fuse.
Do you only have the switch on the positive solar line? No fuse on that line? And if you didn't have a negative bus bar, would you just add the solar negative to the negative side of the MPPT?
I have 15 amp mc4 fuses between each of my solar panels and yes it’s only on the positive wire. The MPPT still needs to connect to the negative busbar or battery
Great video I also came to the conclusion to use a switch to get the full 50 A from the alternator I have version 1.1 of this device my ignition wire is just one red wire do I actually have to use the ground line thanks
The ignition wire can be connected to any fuse/wire inside a fuse box that shows 12v when the engine is running and 0v when the engine is turned off. You can test this using a volt meter. I connected mine to a fuse in my fuse box that is located underneath my drivers seat.
Two replies in quick succession, sorry haha. At 7:45, the house battery is full, yet it seems to be getting 11A whilst none is going to the starter battery. I thought once the house battery was full, solar would top up the starter?
Even though it says that it’s at 100%, that doesn’t mean it’s actually full. 14.7V would mean it’s completely full. I would suggest you get a battery monitor with a shunt since it is much more accurate and will make more sense. I had imputed custom settings that told the charger to top up the starting battery once the house battery reached 14.4V. These settings are completely customizable.
Magic video ! Many thanks 😊 I have one question about the fuses for the starter /house battery to 50a dc to dc mppt. Can you tell me which I should be using I've got a bit confused?
Usually fuses are sized 1.5x the max amperage running through the wire. In this case, that would be 50 x 1.5 = 75 amp fuse. I used a 60 amp because I wanted to protect my charger/wire a little more in case and also it’s the closest fuse I could order on Amazon during the pandemic. Renogy recommends in there manual to use a 75amp fuse on the input and a 65 amp fuse on the output. I would follow there recommendations.
> 35A is the max that you'll get Well, yeah, if the solar can only contribute 15A. If you had the panel for ≥25A of solar you'd see the full 50A in that scenario. It's not like the unit is limited to 35A. The specs allow 660W input on the solar side. There are combo DC-DC that default to alternator-only when both charging sources are present; ; the kisae DMT line and Sterling come to mind.
Hello and thank you at last I’ve found the issue to solve my setup. Can you tell me why the ignition wire comes with the kit only has positive wire not ground and you have. Can you help. Steve.
Do you have to run a negative from the starter? I see on your set up you have it from chassis but I thought renogy advises to run from starter. Do you have any issues like this? Thank
No you don’t need to run a negative wire. The negative connection from the solar panels and the charger should run to the busbar. The busbar is then connected to the negative terminal on the battery and grounded to the vehicles chassis.
@@madetoexplore Thanks you so much for your reply. That's good news as I already have a 6AWG cable running to the back from the starter battery positive terminal. The van had a wheelchair lift and it was for that.
I have the same 06 sprinter T1N and just bought this dual charger. I was looking today at how to route my positive cable to the starter battery. Underneath the van or in the track inside above the window areas in the cargo area and up to seating area. What route did you take to get to starting battery? Thanks 🙏🏽
I’ve altered my electrical design a little bit. I installed an 80 amp 12v breaker at the battery then ran the wire down through the engine bay and up under the drivers seat. Then underneath my kitchen cabinets to the back so most of the wiring is actually inside the van. It kind of depends on your interior layout whether you can hide the wire or not.
How does this hook up to my charge controller? Seems like every example I see there's no charge controller? Currently my solar comes down and straight to my charge controller. Would I just connect solar to the DC to DC charger instead, then everything else would stay the same? Did my set-up years ago so I've become a bit rusty on all the electrical knowledge. Thanks!
This controller is both a DC to DC charger and MPPT solar charge controller. So yes you can just connect your solar to this charger as long as the voltage is under 25 volts.
I got a 310 watt solar panel and didnt know it puts out 40V - Both Renogys 30 and 50 amp will over current at 25v which is Crap - other MPPTs will take 50 to 100v - now i have to downsize panel or fit separate DC to DC + MPPT - wish i knew before as specs said 30A will take a 400w panel not 4x100 @ 24v
Problem with Renogy DC DC is we can not connect solar panel in series, they support Max voltage is about 20v. We ran into this problem that if run in parallel, which requires very large gauge cable
Where would you install a switch so that you can shut off the alternator charging when needed? (for saving gas) Maybe at the fuse box cable you installed? I don't want to be burning gas for electricity everytime I drive. Does this make sense? Also, would it be useful to connect four 100W panels (12v) in a 2s2p fashion? that way 24V is still under the 25V max but you have high voltage and low current, taking advantage of the MPPT capabilities. Thanks for the great video! (I might buy this from your link)
I would install the shut off underneath or beside the drivers seat since my cable runs through there and it would be easy to access while driving. Yes you could give that a shot and see if it works! Let me know how it goes.
Hey, cool vid thanks! Do you know if you can adjust amps in the app? I have a 100ah battery that can only take 20 amps charge rate but planning to get a lithium one that can take 50 later. Heared somewhere that you can adjust the amps by factors of 10, so 50/40/30/20 if you wanted
Oh - why does it say in book NEVER connect solar to unit first ? Would it damage anything and why no internal protection? Can you use only as a DC/DC charger without solar input?
There is internal protection but if you connect the solar panels first, the controller has no where to put that power which could cause an overload or components to heat up. That’s why you need to connect the battery first and it’s also a good idea to install an isolation switch along the positive wire to your solar panels making it easier to shut off. Yes, you can use it only as a DC/DC charger.
@madetoexplore is there any other safe way to charge this type of system with 110 power n not mess up controller or solar at same time other then inverter charger?
Useful video. I bought one of this as well. The ING signal wire only come with one single red wire, but you mentioned in this video that theres another black negative wire (ground) you connected it behind the fuse panel. So, where is the other end of that cable (negative/black) connected to?
I believe that it’s supposed to come with a two-conductor wire (one red and one black). The negative/black is connected to the ground bolt underneath the seat in our t1n sprinter. It’s a common ground point on this vehicles but any grounding point will work as long as it’s a good reliable connection.
Hey great video! Can I ask why you don't have a fuse between the switch and the solar panels? can't the panels create some serious voltage when it's really hot? I read that the switch can only handle up to 48V but solar panels can put out over 100V.
What’s the correct way to install the charger when the the van battery is 24V and leisure battery is 12V. The van also doesn’t have a smart alternator meaning you aren’t meant to install the ignition wire therefore how does it stop charging once the engine is turned off? Thank you :)
What voltage does the alternator push out? The charger won’t pull a charge if the voltage is under a certain amount. You don’t have to connect the ignition wire if you don’t want too.
Thanks for the nice concise presentation! I have 510w PV with MPPT charge controller (up to 60 A). Just dropped a couple of hundred bucks on the controller, so is it worth the expense to buy this 50 A DC to DC and replace the existing controller, given that I have up to 40 amp charging when the sun shines (static or driving)?
The ignition wire does not have a - they are both + according to the manual. Page 11 "There are two ports on the green IGN connector housing. Both ports have a positive polarity, so only one connection is required from either port."
Thanks Allen, apparently a lot of these charges come with a single conductor wire. Mine came with 2 conductors so I assumed it was a positive and negative. Regardless, mines been working great for 2 years connected the same way I did it in the video.
Quick question, can this unit be used to jumpstart a dead starter battery? I know it can keep the starter battery charged with solar, but if your starter battery were to die, is it possible?
Since the wire is so small, you can pull the fuse out, put the wire around the metal part of one of the fuse legs, and slide the fuse back into place. Or you can splice into the wire behind the fuse block.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I do not have solar panels on my van , so can i still use this dc to dc charger? And where the negative cable from the vehicle battery goes? To the negative bus bar? Am i right? Thank you
@@zura73 no I didn’t. The main negative is grounded through the negative busbar. If I didn’t ground my negative busbar to the frame I would’ve connected that small ground.
Great video. The ignition sense wire has nothing to do with the solar vs. alternator 50/50 split. It is for "smart" (Euro 6) alternators and otherwise unnecessary. Your solar on/off switch is the way to go if you want to draw full alternator amperage (50A) while the solar is connected.
Thanks! Your right, it doesn’t have anything to do with the 50/50 split but if the smart wire isn’t connected, the charger will only pull a max of 10-15 amps from the alternator. The wire needs to be connected to pull 25-50 amps.
But here’s the thing, is I understand it in DC to DC converter MPPT controller is supposed to charge your battery from both the solar panels in the alternator. It does not appear to do this especially when you’re driving in. The solar panels are connected. Either I am misunderstanding, Renogy’s explanation, or the units are not functioning is a suggest.
I like the form factor built-in, but I don’t see why you wouldn’t just go with a regular 50 amp DC to DC charger then whenever you’re starting your car your MPPT is separate and fully charging plus a full 50 A. Not sure which one I’m going to buy yet
Great question. Having one unit is cheaper and easier. I have 540 watts of solar and I rarely get over 25 amps. Your right though, if you have two controllers (50 amp dc to dc and a 50 amp MPPT) you could potentially bring in 100 amps while driving down the highway on a sunny day. This would require ALOT of solar panels though. With my setup, I bring in 25 amps from solar and 25 amps from the alternator while driving on a sunny day. Once the sun goes down, the controller will automatically start pulling 50 amps from the alternator or I can flick a switch to shut off solar and pull 50 at any time.
Do you need to connect the D+ if you don't have a smart alternator and it has a built vsr. My red arc works fine with out the d+ connected but I've just bought a Renogy 30a dcdc
Hey there, I have the 30 AMP version of this, and I just got a 175W flexisolar panel. So I connect the solar panel to a switch to disconnect it so I get a more full charge from starter battery/alternator? Do you have that switch linked above? I saw in your video it's a red one...
@@bardock_gg yes it is a little different but they do all work the same. I would try to stick to Blue Sea if possible as they tend to manufacturer a better product.
Have you tried a switch at the starter battery side to see if the MPPT can input maximum 50amps from solar panels? So you only have the neg form charger controller to neg of battery not buss bar? Do you have an inverter installed? I'm looking at the renogy 2000w running with 2x 170amp GIANT lithium batteries, trying to find more info running pos and neg from inverter to opposite battery POS neg terminals so to hopefully split the amps draw from inverter so doesn't shut down each batteries BMS (BMS EACH 150AMP Current limit).
The controller prioritized solar so having a switch on the alternator wouldn’t change anything. I have received 45-50 amps of solar for sure. Yes I have the Renogy 2000w inverter with a 200ah Canbat heated lithium battery. Haven’t tried splitting the amps before but let me know if that idea works!
You’ll have to tap into an existing circuit. The trick is finding a circuit that is only powered while the engine is running so you need to use a multi meter to test these circuits. +12v while the car is running and 0v when the engine is off. It’s easiest to do in a fuse box.
The 50 amp model will only pull around 10 amps if you don’t connect the smart alternator wire. If your worried about your alternator, I would install a switch near near the driver seat so you can turn it on while your driving on the highway when your alternator is producing a higher output
hi.ive recently had problems with my solar camper van system.i have dc to dc charger12amps.been good had about 4 years off eBay.the factory that makes them near me.but as I have a bigger compressor fridge now which is on 24/7 it draws a bit more power and my 3 parallel 110amp batteries getting weaker over time thinks its best to have more powerful dc to dc charger.think the renogy 20amp one may do.i do have 260watts solar and 3 separate mppt controllers for each group of panels for max power.i use camper van for work daily so charger be on most days and when we camp off grid the solar helps.only have water pump/led lights /usb sockets to run.i do have a Krieger 1100watt inverter I use now and again .
Just setting up my van. I picked up two 100a lifepo4 batteries. A renogy 50a dc to dc charger.(same model as yours) And a 2000watt renogy inverter. I’m stuck at a standstill on what solar parts to get… was just going to do the premium 200watt kit with the 20a solar charger with mppt from renogy. Do I need the separate charger unit or does this act as that? You noted that your dc to dc is hooked up to the solar but didn’t mention a solar charge unit. What are you using?
Yes, once the house battery’s reach a certain voltage (which you can adjust using the Renogy BT2) the charge will be redirected to trickle charge your starting battery
Hi I have a question about the connections. I just got the renogy rover mppt controller with 200w of solar and I also would like to use bus bars like yours. Can i use it the same way you have it where you plug the controller into the bus bar instead of straight to the battery? So the the only wires coming out of the battery terminals is directly to bus bar? Or does the controller need to connected straight to the battery to charge it? Thanks!
Am I understanding this video correctly in that I no longer need a Rover for my solar? It looks like this device does everything solar and alternator at the same time and or?
Hey I'm installing a very similar system, I want to know about having all your negative wires (pv, start battery and house battery) terminated on the negative bus bar rather than on dcc50s. Is that something you decided to do or was it something that Renogy said was OK to do ?
Thanks for the reply, yes I spoke with renogy and the okayed my wire diagram and also confirmed that negative wires on the - bus is okay.. personally thought it would look sloppy with a bunch of wires terminated on the dcc50s
Nice video, i thought t1ns didn't have smart alternators, did you upgrade yours? Also. Does the renogy still draw power from the starter battery if you shut off your solar batteries and solar panels as you're hooked up directly to them?
T1n don’t have a smart alternator but if you don’t connect the smart alternator ports on the charger, you’ll only get between 5-15 amps while your driving. I also upgraded my alternator to 150amp alternator which I would recommend doing! Easy job and the part is only $220 CAD. The charger only draws power from the starting battery if the engine is running. It will actually top off the starting battery battery through the solar panels once the solar batteries are charged as well.
Hey there, helpful video, thanks! I had a question about grounding - I see the charger ground runs to the negative bus bar, did you have to do anything special to the starter battery ground (either ground that to the chassis, or run a cable from that to the negative bus bar as well)? Or you only had to run a positive wire from the starter battery to the charger? Thanks
I HAVE RENOGY DC TO DC MMPTT , WHEN YOU SAY YOU RUN WIRE IGN TO YOUR FUSE , IM ASUMING YOU HAVE 2 WIRES, WHEN I PURSCHASE MINE I HAVE ONLY 1 RED WIRE, SO IM ABIT CONFUSED, I DONT HAVE SMART ALTERNATOR, I CONNECTED RED WIRE IGN TO MY FUXBOX. IM STILL GETTING 19AMP .
Some people got duplex and some people got a mono. Regardless, only one wire is required and needs to be connected to a positive location that is off when the engine is off and on when the engine is running. After you successfully do that, you need to shut off the solar input. This means disconnecting your solar panels or installing a switch like I have. Driving at night also tells the controller that there is no solar and it should start pulling 45-50 amps from the alternator.
With connecting the ignition wire, how have you connected the wire to that fuse? Ive never seen a wire run to a fuse like that before. thanks in advance
Great video 👍 thank you for good info. Would it not be possible to get more Amps from solar if there is a cutoff switch on altenator wire? Just a thought 😊 im new to this.
Hi, thank you for your video ;-) Do you know, how many watts your alternator has? The manual says, that the maximum power of the alternator is 660W. I'm a bit confused
My alternator can provide up to 150 amp depending on engine RPM. This would be about 1800 watts. The 660 watt figure is actually for solar, not the alternator.
@@madetoexplore Thank you for the quick reply. I have already received a reply from the manufacturer that 660W is the maximum usable power of the alternator
Nice Vids, and great to see a fellow Canuck in the van scene; made me go out and buy all Renogy! We got a RENOGY 100ah Lithium Ion Phosphate Smart Battery, self-heating cause we’re up in Cold Canada too, the 50A Dc to Dc charger with MPPT, the 500amp monitor with shunt. Question 1, is there a way to somehow connect shore power so I can charge my LiPo battery when the van is off, and no solar? Question two, I was thinking to go RENOGY Pure Sine Wave 1000w inverter; basically need to power Iceco Fridge/Freezer, water pump, lights, nothing major, but then I saw your RENOGY inverter/charger video. What’s the benefit of having an inverter/charger over a simple inverter if I have the 50A Dc to Dc charger? This is all new to me, and we’re starting from scratch on our 1994 Volkswagen Transporter!
Hey! Thank you very much. The benefit of the inverter/charger is that it will allow you to charge your batteries via shore power and it will also invert the power from your 12v batteries to 120v so you can plug in larger electronics like your fridge.
@@madetoexplore totally makes sense! I’d like to avoid getting the inverter charger tho cause it’s so huge and heavy. Is there no way to connect/wire shore power into the Renogy Dc to Dc charger? If not, is there an easier/cheaper way to charge the LiPo battery via AC from the wall? I saw renogy’s 20A AC to DC LGP charger but it looks kinda meh. If not, maybe the 50 Dc to Dc and solar will be enough?
@@danielle_duval that’s fair. It is ridiculously big! Haha We hardly ever plug into shore power to be honest so I would suggest installing everything else and seeing how it goes with your power consumption. Just keep in mind that you may have to install one in the future during your install.
hi my eleven mppt charge controller only turns on when my engine on and my renogy dc charger comes on as it should to put charge into battery and it shows voltage on my epever remote meter .strange won't display when engine off .any ideas anyone
Hi, just I installed this and only getting 2 amps from the starter battery whilst driving all connections are where they should be, used 25mm2 cables. Any ideas? Thanks alot
Hey this was quite helpful to answer a question I could not find. I assumed (like you also wished was the case) that if the solar was only pushing 10 amps then it would pull the remaining 40 from the alternator. I almost ordered the 30 DCCS version but now Ill for sure buy the 50. Thanks for the info. Now that you have used it, is there a way to shut it down completely while driving with your phone app or with Renogy One? Not a big deal I am just curious. Also, do you know if there is any way to connect the 3000watt inverter charger so the info is viewable with the Renogy one, or with some sort of external monitor screen?
Welcome! Thanks for watching. No, I don’t believe there’s a way to shut it down but i am currently testing out the Renogy One and will be releasing a video soon.
@@madetoexplore oh that’s great, I’ve heard it can’t connect to the 3000watt inverter/charger yet which is a bummer but I haven’t installed anything yet myself. That will be a next week project, looking forward to your video to hear what you find out. Quite the learning curve getting into this power system stuff, it’s very interesting.
@@madetoexplore no worries. Reason is I am thinking of running 2 in parallel. But worried alternator might not like it all the time. If the app let me play around with limiting the output I could tweak it to get max charge when needed, and flick back to lower for every day use.
@@andrewlund3886 so the charger prioritized solar power. It won’t pull more than 25amps from the alternator if there is any power coming from the solar panels, even if it’s a only a little bit. It will only pull 50amps at night and if you install an isolation switch along for the solar panels to trick the charger into thinking it’s night time (like I did).
@@madetoexplore yea your info was great on that part of the unit. I won’t be connecting any solar to the renogy, pure alternator charge. I’ll be going separate unit for solar
At 10:15 (video timestamp), the house battery is full but it also seems to be getting fed with 660W. This doesn't seem to make any sense. Where's all that power going?
Watts equals volts times amps. At 10:15, there’s no volts or amps so I would say that the app/charger isn’t reading correctly. The bt2 isn’t nearly as accurate as using a shunt.
Couple of questions, how did you find out you had a smart charger? How did you handle the original charger that was probably part of the AC to dc that one uses when camped with power plug. The renogy only has two inputs. Now you have solar, alternator, and shore power?
I researched these solar components for a long time before purchasing them. I have the Renogy DC to DC charger with MPPT and the 2000w inverter charger
@@madetoexplore How many do you think that one can connect in parallel before it gets dicey? We want to start with a 2x100W setup. Then, if we need more want the chance to expand to 4x100w or 6x100w, do you think that this controller could handle that? PS, thanks for the great rundown!
The max solar voltage for this charger is 25V. Does this mean I have to use solar panels where the peak voltage is under this too? Because many 12V panels i looked at have peak voltage/ open circuit voltage above this.
@@madetoexplore well, i was just browsing 12V solar panels on Google and checking what is in the shopping section lol. But usually those big panels are above the 25V. Seems like i would have to specifically find the smaller ones. Any suggestions for good panels?
@@obinnaeke8067 oh okay, yeah I would suggest 175 watt Renogy panels for sure but I’ve also used the 180 watt BougeRV ones off Amazon and they work well too!
Made to Travel, would you mind shutting off your solar panels when they're otherwise producing good power and then measure the open voltage for us? I suspect the open voltage is not the metric to use here. I bet your open voltage ends up being 30+V but as soon as you draw current off them, the voltage drops to the ~18V seen in the video. The rule is simply to make sure your solar panels are nominally 12V and only connect them in parallel!
Nice installation ! I am new to DC to DC charging so this is my question. Can you let the engine run on idle for a certain period without damaging the alternator or any other piece or the car battery ? I am asking this because my camping trailer is sometime under shade and I could use this set up to recharge my battery in case they come to low. Thank you !
Yes you can, but you’ll want to check to see how many amps your alternator provides so you don’t put a strain on it. It’s also important to shutoff all your accessories while it’s idling (radio, fan, lights, etc.)
I installed one of these on my boat. When my engine is running and I am getting solar power as well I hardly get 12 A of charge current to my 200 amp hour lithium iron phosphate battery. If I turn off the solar panels, then my battery gets about 30 to 35 A just from the alternator. Something is not working accordingly. Does anyone else have this problem. My understanding is I should be seeing a maximum of 25 A from the solar panels in a maximum of 25 A from the alternator. I don’t get anywhere close to that.
