Just bought and used this on my '92 FZR1000 fairings. Did an unbelievably good job reattaching snapped-off pieces as well as reconstructing missing portions. Easy to work with. I am very pleased. Highly recommend!
Just bought this kit (black) and will be giving it my first try at using it to repair a crack in the left side cowl cover on my 1987 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane. Will also be using it, and the molding block to repair a broken attachment tab. Which brings me to, and why, I’m commenting. I’d like to ask if a person can get a couple more if the moldable blocks? Or can it be used and reused more than once! Thanks in advance. And thank I you for coming out with such a kit! My gut wrenched when it cracked! I’ve had this bike for 35+ years! And I hope to hell I can use this kit and get it repaired. However, if I do, it seems as if matching the paint might be a tad on the tricky noise? It’s the Winterlake Blue Hurricane. Anyways, I’m a tad late to finding out about this kit/stuff and finding this video. Only by 6 years or so tho. lol But I hope you see this and reply to my question about the moldable block.
Yes, you can buy the molding bars separately. You can also reuse the molding bar; just put it back in hot water. Good luck with the repair! Give us a call if you have any questions. Here's the link to the molding bars: www.polyvance.com/PlastiFix-Refills-1/2560-3/
What if it’s something thats on the edge of the piece, like i laid my bike down and it grinded and burnt a end piece down, can you like shape this stuff you are using and form it to be like the original design?
how flexible is the repair in comparison to the rest of the panel. pretty easy to make something look like its repaired but how easy will it break in that spot again if its flexed?
@@scottb7600 That's excellent to know. I'm watching these videos in preparation for making a repair. Plastifix appears to be the best option for the fairings I'm repairing where I'm repairing them.
And what is the cost of a new faring vs this product, the time and labor to apply this plastifix followed by bondo/ filler and more labor to prep followed by paint? I cracked a small part of my fender, the $163 cost of the of a new part is starting to sound pretty good. lol
It all depends on the cost of the part. Many older fairings are no longer available and many new fairings are $500 on up. Sure there are cheap ones, but generally if you drop a bike, you're going to need to repair more than one body panel.
Cure time varies depending on how much liquid you added and temperature. The more liquid, the slower it cures. The best way to tell if its cured is to see if any part of it is tacky or soft. If you can push a fingernail into it and it gives, its not cured. It should feel very hard like the surrounding plastic. If you add just the minimal amount of liquid, and its hot, it can be fully cured in 15 minutes. I've had some take a few hours if I added way too much liquid.
If its fiberglass, you should be able to see a few fibers at the break and the break will be very irregular and jagged. If its a clean break with no fibers visible, its more likely going to be GTX or PPE+PA. These are nylon blends. PlastiFix will work better on both, but not as well as it works on ABS. The strongest repair would be to weld it using Polyvance R15-01-03-BK welding rod using either an airless, hot air, or nitrogen welder. Before you do anything, scour the part for an ID mark they are usually in the following format >PPE+PA
So would this not work and give the same strength as just using the plastic bondo and that's it. Of course bevel out the crack like you did, but then just use the plastic bondo and you're done...? That plastic bondo you used is super strong, I'd imagine just as strong as the stuff you used, b/c that bondo is rock solid, I use it all the time.
Bondo is NOT strong and if you're using it for structural repairs, I'm surprised they hold up at all. Polyester resin with lots of fillers (Bondo) compared to methymethacrylate adhesive (PlastiFix) is like comparing the Wright Brothers Flyer to an F-22. yeah they both fly, but one does it soooo much better.
Hello, the video is just amazing! But i have a question - How can i fill in PlastiFix to the 0.5cm holes in motorcycle parts? For example: My motorcycle has holes made by a screwdriver. - Thank you!!!
bevel the edges of the hole with a dremel tool. Put foil tape on the backside, then fill the front with PlastiFix....sand smooth, paint...or if you don't plan on repainting the part, bevel the backside, tape the front, fill and then touch up the paint on the front after removing the tape.
It is a better practice to use some type of grid reinforcement pads on the backside of the hole to give it additional strength and prevent flexing out of the filled hole under loading conditions. ABS flexes a lot and is designed to do so. And the product is 100% sand-able as well. Beveling the edge is a good tip though. I would fill the hole from the front side so as to sand and paint it without any issue at all. No one sees the backside anyway.
You can view our list of international distributors and contact the distributors near you to see if they carry it. www.polyvance.com/International-Distributors/
There is a UK distributor for that product in the UK, called WOW. IT does make the product more expensive, but it is still relatively cheap compared to the cost of sport bike fairings.
Well considering a good super glue and baking soda are these ingredients, I used a different methodology but achieved the same results. Ya don't need a tiny kit for 45 bucks when a 2 lb bag of baking soda is like 3 bucks and super glue is 3 bucks. 6 bucks total and DONE same fix.
Nope, no super glue or baking soda in PlastiFix! PlastiFix is a special type methylmethacryalte designed for ABS, PC, Acrylics and other hard plastics. Here's the big difference: Super glue only bonds to the surface of the plastic. It is also very brittle and only has about 30% the strength of a PlastiFix repair on hard plastics. PlastiFix chemically etches itself into the plastic and should not fail. Plastifix uses a liquid monomer to polymerize the powder to form MMA plastic in an exothermic chemical reaction. The individual components of PlastiFix have no adhesive properties without the chemical reaction of the two ingredients, unlike super glue. Because the components can be reacted directly on the surface to be bonded, the added benefit is that the reaction incorporates the surface molecules of the base plastic, creating a chemical as well as physical bond on some materials. The chemical AND physical bond make this type of repair extremely durable and impact resistant, plus it is sandable and easily painted, unlike super glue type repairs.
+الوتر الحزين The part number for the teardrop cutting bit is 6121-T, and can be found on our website at the link below! www.polyvance.com/Die-Grinder-Bits-1/Tear-Drop-Cutter-Bit/
Good question. Honestly, there's no one answer. It's kind of "dealer's choice". Whichever speed you feel comfortable working with without grinding too much plastic away.
View this video on on our website for helpful information and product suggestions for this repair: www.polyvance.com/video/plastifix/repair-cracked-and-broken-motorcycle-fairing-with-plastifix Here are some answers to common questions about the video: Where can I get PlastiFix? We cannot ship PlastiFix overseas due to hazmat restrictions. If you are in the United States, you can buy it from us. If you are in the UK, WOW! (www.wowauto.eu/) may still have some available. Is PlastiFix just super glue (CA glue) and baking soda? No! PlastiFix is a special type methylmethacryalte designed for ABS, PC, Acrylics and other hard plastics. Super glue only bonds to the surface of the plastic. It is also very brittle and only has about 30% the strength of a PlastiFix repair on hard plastics. PlastiFix chemically etches itself into the plastic and should not fail. Plastifix uses a liquid monomer to polymerize the powder to form MMA plastic in an exothermic chemical reaction. The most common forms of MMA include acrylic and lucite. The individual components have no adhesive properties without the chemical reaction of the two ingredients, unlike super glue. Because the components can be reacted directly on the surface to be bonded, the added benefit is that the reaction incorporates the surface molecules of the base plastic, creating a chemical as well as physical bond on some materials. The chemical AND physical bond make this type of repair extremely durable and impact resistant, plus it is sandable and easily painted, unlike super glue type repairs. Can I use PlastiFix on all plastics? No. PlastiFix only works on ABS, PC and other hard plastics. It will not work on nylon very well, and not at all on PP or PE plastics. You should use a plastic welder on those types of plastics.
It was just a crack?you turned into a full scale over the top job....putting all that (extra) unnecessary work was mind boggling...even thou good end result
I mean not really. They just went a step up and used a paint shop. You can just repair that one section and hit it with a spray can if you don't want literal perfection. If you want literal perfection like you just drove it off the lot, then sure repaint the fairing professionally, but yeah no need to if you just want to touch up a crap and spray it with same color paint to cover up the work you did. Works just fine
Thanks for watching. Unfortunately, this particular video is over 4 years old and we can't do anything about the music. Our new videos do have different music.
+الوتر الحزين We actually don't manufacture rotary tools, our focus mainly lies on the plastic itself. Here is a search result page on Amazon that you might find useful: www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=rotary+tool
Priced OEM sport bike fairings lately? You still need to paint them and they might not be available as well. Of course it all depends on your particular bike, but it most cases its much cheaper to repair the parts you have, plus its better for the environment to keep as much plastic out of landfills as possible.
Here is the link to the bit: www.polyvance.com/Die-Grinder-Bits-1/6121-T/ All of the products we used are on the webpage for this video, which is linked in the description: www.polyvance.com/video/plastifix/repair-cracked-and-broken-motorcycle-fairing-with-plastifix
No, it is not ABS powder and acetone. PlastiFix is a liquid monomer and a powdered resin. PlastiFix has several big advantages over ABS and acetone. It doesn't shrink when curing like ABS and acetone, it doesn't embrittle like ABS and acetone, and it will bond to a wide variety of materials, other than just ABS!
It might look like super glue and baking soda, but it isn't! It's makes a far superior repair. PlastiFix is a special type methylmethacryalte designed for ABS, PC, Acrylics and other hard plastics. Super glue only bonds to the surface of the plastic. It is also very brittle and only has about 30% the strength of a PlastiFix repair on hard plastics. PlastiFix chemically etches itself into the plastic and should not fail. Plastifix uses a liquid monomer to polymerize the powder to form MMA plastic in an exothermic chemical reaction. The most common forms of MMA include acrylic and lucite. The individual components have no adhesive properties without the chemical reaction of the two ingredients, unlike super glue. Because the components can be reacted directly on the surface to be bonded, the added benefit is that the reaction incorporates the surface molecules of the base plastic, creating a chemical as well as physical bond on some materials. The chemical AND physical bond make this type of repair extremely durable and impact resistant, plus it is sandable and easily painted, unlike super glue type repairs
Try the super glue and banking soda. Just try it. Super glue it’s self only holds to the outside. I seen the super glue and backing soda trick. Used on helicopter wings and you can sand it and paint it. When it comes to plastics I use panel bond. Most of the time. Just because it’s always available. But will see about this stuff
f that, I was waiting in the end for the guy to cut the motorcycle frame, weld it back again, sand it, prime it, sand it, reinvent new fuel, top it up, jesus christ, lmao
Time to build that street fighter that I’ve been shall I shan’t I ooh I just don’t know Good people of the comments section , I have a quiet old now Kawasaki ZX10R ninja c2h ( side exhaust) It’s getting a bit knocked about few scratches dings Shall I restore and keep it factory original ( few hidden mods🔥🥷) Or get some straight renthall bars Get her kit off naked Help me out please people? Original Ninja in gun metal silver and Matt black Or mean looking fighter in Matt black gunmetal silver and a dash of day glow orange? Oh it’s already got the gold forks
@@PoisonousPen You can do it, I have confidence in you! In no time you'll be changing your profile name to PlastiFixNinja! Seriously though, It looks difficult but its not too bad. The biggest mistake people make using PlastiFix is overfilling the repair that they need to restore cosmetically. PlastiFix, (once fully cured) is not easily sanded. Its not as bad as sanding epoxy but it will wear your arm out without a power sander.
Leaving aside the whole issue of how bloody stupid plastic fairings on streetbikes are...just makes your life more complicated and expensive, for zero benefit below 100MPH...