Jerrod, Can't thank you enough for you taking the time to do this video. It took a weekend, however for $80.00 we were able to replace the bearings on our Duet Washer. The dealer wanted to say the machine was toast and the drum would have to be replaced for $400.00 just for the tub. We took a chance and followed along with your video and got 'er done. All is fine except a F5 code after the tub fills with water. We pause the cycle, then press start and all is well. You gave me the confidence.
Call whirlpool directly, talk to customer service. We had the exact same issue, they sent us a full tub assembly for free and after this video, took us about 1 hour to swap out!!! Thanks hometaskdotcom!!!! Very happy!
Jerrod, I wanted to thank you and Gabe again. Washer is back in service. I was able to find the whole assembly (basket, tub, counter-weights etc) fully assembled and ready to go for $411 shipped! Incredible deal IMO. If anyone wants to find the complete assembly, google "Complete Whirlpool Tub Assembly".
Fixed shaft successfully! Used machine to cut new threads, used smaller nut. New bearings are great, no more noise, and drum spins well. We thought we could ignore noise in pump, but on further inspection, found the cause of noise and reason for slow draining: broken impeller. Another pump assembly is on the way. Too bad we couldn't find just the impeller.New pump, new bearings, plus trips to the laundromat have almost added up to the cost of a low-end top-loader. Thanks! Amy
Eric - don't give up! You are almost there. There are many options for how to get the bearing off. The fact that it moves on the shaft is very encouraging. All you have to do is take some fine grit sand paper (100 grit or finer up to 300-400 grit). Ideally you could get some of the stuff they sell for plumbers to clean up the pipes before they solder. It comes on a little roll. Or, if you have any old sand paper around, that will do. Get the shaft wet with oil or water (oil preferred).
I was able to get it, I just had to pinch it alittle bit with a pair of pilers. When I took them apart I believe the metal one attatched to the top and right below it was the plastic one. I researched a video online and that was how another motor was also taken apart. I just want to thank you so much for your help. I was gun shy going into this project but you were very helpful, I feel empowered. Thanks Jerrod very much for all your help and patience.
Sorry for taking so long to reply. I think I have some useful tips for readers post repair. The Maytag seal is a single piece with the central concentric ring set lower mating to the basket shaft flange. Your replacement seal fits but lacks the separate lip for the flange. So you set the seal in more, about 1/4". It fit with tub and basket. Silicone spray made assembly a bit easier. Washer reassembly was tedious but without a hitch, thanks to your vid. Thanks to you and Gabe videos.
I left a comment yesterday. We've now run seven loads of laundry, and the machine is working perfectly. Many, many thanks for a truly wonderful video. Your 9/10 year-old son is an absolutely pro with the camera. As for my comment on the damper arms below: you never showed how to simultaneously depress both latches while rotating the lock 90 degrees. I spent a LONG time detaching the four arms, because I didn't want to break them.
Thank you, just finished fixing my Whirlpool Duet washing machine! I bought the parts from the link that you provided and watched your video throughout the repair. Just finished my first load and the washer works perfect and is as silent as it was when I first bought it. Thank you very much for your help!
Thank you Gabe. I hope you are learning as much as you can from your Dad. You are really helping out many many people. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
Jerrod, Thanks, will do. And thanks again to you and Gabe for the repair video. My almost eleven year old son is standing next to me now wondering if I will be using him. for the repair. The answer, Zach, is YES. Harrison
I could be confused whether it is air pressure or water pressure in the small black tube that signals the pressure switch to keep the drain pump energized. Whatever it is, aligning the holes perfectly is important. I never knew my washer could be so quiet, spin so fast and smoothly, or drain so quickly! Thank you for your help, it is very satisfying now to have gone through the process. My Dad had an appliance repair business when I was a kid. This time, I got to do more than hold the light!
John - I am glad to hear it was helpful and money saving for you! Gabe accepts the thanks for running the video camera also. He has gotten better as we have done a few. Amazingly, he turns 12 later this summer! Sorry about the lack of clarity on removing the struts. They are different on every model but you are right, they are easy to break so I should go into more detail with those. I have in some of the videos but not all. Blessings- Jerrod
Fixed it!!!! Hooray! I'll do my best with my limited, new found appliance language: Imagine pressure switch and small black tube running to rubber drain boot attached to outer drum. Rubber boot was slightly mis-aligned to outer drum. Holes weren't matched exactly, air could not escape the tubing. This mis-alignment kept the air pressure up in the black tubing, thus confusing the pressure switch. Now that the rubber drain boot is aligned correctly to the outer drum, it drains so fast!
Thank you gjferf. Gabe is an awesome boy! The last video we did, he used a tripod for most of it which I think will make people a lot happier! The problem with your machine is most likely this. Your spider is probably broken causing the knocking in the back. The shavings out the front is from the inside of the drum rubbing on the plastic housing that it spins within. there are screws that stick through the outside of the stainless drum to hold the baffles in place and the ends of those....
It is good that everyone understands that the manufactures position on this is really a marketing decision. They can engineer how long the machines will last and based on that data can make a strong determination as to how many units will be sold every year. The engineering problem could be solved but there is no motivation for the manufactures to do so. As long as the machine lasts longer than then memory of how much it cost to replace then they will not upset most of the consumers.
I bought your bearings three days ago and they arrived yesterday. I have the HE3 not the HE3T. It took me all day today to do this because I was by myself even though my wife tried to help when she could. I spent lots of time cleaning my hoses, drain parts, and drum assembly, because after 14 years this machine had never been taken apart. You were right, the drum assembly was HEAVY but I managed to get it out and back in with my wife moving the springs that the drum hangs on. I also watched every other video on how to do this job and I am fairly handy but I was stumped by one thing. Nobody said anything about a rubber hose that exits the dispenser that squirts fluid through the very top of the rubber door seal. I did not remove it during disassembly and had no idea what it was or where it goes. I thought it was a breather tube but after getting it all buttoned up and leaving the front panel off water quickly ran out the front of the machine. After much head scratching my wife noticed a tiny hole on the door seat (12:00 Position) so I stuffed the white plastic tip of that hose through the hole and.......you guessed, it the machine works like new again. At 62 this was a chore but without your video and bearings I would not have tried this repair. Thanks for the help, I will see you again in 14 more years.
Jerrod... You and your son are awesome. Maytag dropped the ball with this model and people are furious because maytag "claims' these bearings are not serviceable. You prove them wrong!! I wish I had seen your video sooner as I have already started this project. The only problem I am having is that the bottom "shocks" do not want to come off. In your video you didn't really elaborable on how they are removed but... I am assuming they come out prety simply. SO... back to the washer room I go!!!
Lauren, The bearings are different sizes so that is easy to figure out. The seal could go in both ways but the open side sits next to the bearing and the closed side faces out where you can see it. If you have any issues then I would comment on the chat group that is on the same page as the kit order page as I get those quickly and many other people respond as well.
The bucket works great as most of us don't have an old milk crate. Nothing wanted to take out the tube seal except the flat bar and the giant C-Ring is dangerous to remove or install. Hurt myself with my existing C-pliers and then went for the giant pliers and the C-Ring came right out. Lastly most of us don't have a go cart wheel and don't skip this step either. The gas can was perfect and did not get punctured in the process. Seriously I spent too much time figuring all this out and good luck.
Yes, good call! This is another common problem that should be checked. It can also be done quickly by removing the front lower cover and pulling the main pump connection off the tank. Thanks.
Excellent video! I was just able to replace the bearings in my washer thanks to you. I appreciate you taking the time to show everyone how this is done!
There is a lifetime warranty on this main basket. and 10 years on the outer front and rear buckets. My unit is 7 1/2 years old andI just got all 3 for $0. The main shaft mounting to the inner bucket cracked and shredded the front outer bucket. Whirpool tried to tell me I needed a professional to diagnose it but I told her I'm not paying $80 to have someone say the same thing. It took 3.5 hours start to finish using this video! I did need two shocks but found them for $21. Total bill $42.00
Amy - It can be a bit of a challenge but it will come out. The big keys are you need to flip it over and rest the white plastic drum on something all the way around (so it doesn't break). Then use a piece of wood or something to protect the end of the shaft when you hit it really hard to knock it out. You may also use some penetrating oil to help break it loose. It will come out. It may be tough but you can win!
I ordered the parts from the link above. They arrived in two days. The actual work is exactly like the video. The one thing left was how to detach the four damper arms. I'm sure there is a trick for how to simultaneously release the two locking clips. The entire job took seven hours, much of that for cleaning. The machine now runs quieter, but it still has a "rattle" that was there before the fix, and I can lift the inner drum somewhat. The spider seemed intact, but I wonder ...
Thanks for the video. Very thorough and excellent filming. I bought my Washer and Dryer Duet 3 years ago and (thank God) with a 5 year extended warranty. The bearings on the washer just went and the repair guy ordered 3 large parts; inner drum, outer drum housing and something else. He's worked in the industry for 35 years and acknowledges that the quality today is junk. He said the companies make their money in one primary area: PARTS. I asked if the replacement bearings may last any longer. He said unsurprisingly, "No". In 3 years they'll be shot too. So I'm already getting a fix that will fail in about 3 years! These companies have really reached a new low in planned obsolescence. On top of that, he said you can't change the bearings on the newer brands as they are molded in place. He said what happens is the heat generated by the high speed rotating shaft melts the bearing housing and causes a gap to form where water gets in and rusts out the bearings. There are pricier brands like Miele that will last much longer. All I can say is these days, the extended warranty is worth it.
Good feedback. Yes, the new models are not as serviceable as these are. That is sad in some ways because I know it will just end up with us having to pay more for parts from the manufacture in the future.
Jerrod - Just completed my bearing replacements and running the ops test. Everything is looking great. Thanks for the video. I did the job just like you showed and it was awesome. The only mistakes I made were busting off a couple of tabs on the shocks so bought a couple used to fix that. Also forgot to get the water distribution nozzle through the boot so initial test got a bit of water but got that adjusted correctly. Everything is working very smoothly and thanks again to Gabe for the great video production work. You saved me buying a new washer which is a tough additional purchase around the holidays. Thanks and looking forward to more videos from you all in the future. Best regards,James
Thanks for the video and help with the parts. You saved me a lot off cash, everyone was telling me I would have too order the half tub assembly because I have a kenmore. Two bearings and a seal was way cheaper :) Thanks again.
JCat- I have used the highest quality parts since I started selling the kits. There was a reason that your failed the first time and possibly the same reason this time. You really need to take it apart and inspect it to find out. The original repair that I did on my washer was well over 5 years ago and it is still running to this day. I feel like I am on bored time with it but it keeps going so I am not complaining!
GeeWally- Thank you. I am glad it was helpful. The pulley bolt or nut does not actually need to be all that tight. It needs to not come off - that is the important part. I would use a little bit of lock tight or a tiny bit of silicone sealer on the threads to ensure it doesn't back itself out. I don't know what the specs are but I would gets around 10-15 pounds of torque would be plenty for it.
Michael- This is a common problem with these as there really isn't a lot of play in the shaft thrust overall. What is best is to put some sealer on the threads of the bolt/nut that holds the pulley and simply snug it up so the pulley is secure but not super tight. The sealer or silicone sealer dries and keeps the nut or bolt from moving. Jerrod
Steve, You can search for "appliance parts" to find the drum assembly if you need it but you likely do not. The bearings would have to be sloppy on the shaft for it to cause a problem. Normally, that joint does not move as the bearing does the moving. If there is a very minor gap then you can fill it upon assembly to ensure it doesn't move or cause problems.
We do have a repair kit for this model. The cause of the bearing failure is actually a seal that goes bad over time. The kit includes the bearings and a new seal.
Thanks for the video. Replaced the bearings in my Whirlpool Duet this weekend. Works great! Although my machine was a little different than the one in the video, your video really help give me the confidence to tackle the job. I had a lot of rust around the old seal that I had to clean off. I had made a complaint with Whirlpool. They offered to send me a new tub if I got a certified repairman to diagnose the problem. I felt that I would be doing the same repair a few years from now so I installed the better bearings and seal, hopefully I won't be doing this repair again on this machine.
Great video. My suggestion: Since you are removing the drain pump (Aprox 5:30). I recommend that you take it out and inspect it. I pulled off the hose to clean it and found the inlet to the pump almost completely clogged with coins hair pins and other gunk. There is no filter in the drum, bad desighn. ( Remind everyone to empty their pockets)
Michael- The kits I provide are one of a kind as far as I know. You can get the bearings locally as we provided the numbers for those but the seals are a total pain to get and we have had to have some of them custom made. That is the hook the manufactures use to prevent repairs like this or to limit sales of new units or high part sales. In a pinch you could get the bearings locally and make the repair reusing your seal and then order a kit from us and do it again in a few weeks.
Thanks for the quick reply. I removed the belt and tested the bearing, both by spinning and by testing for play. There is no play, and the bearing is smooth and silent. I then ran it empty. The shock/struts looked fine during the spin. No noise except during high rpm spins. Given the simplicity of the design, the only conclusion is that the spider is probably cracked (it's 10 yrs old). I'll run it until it dies and then get a top load Speed Queen. It was still worth fixing the bearing.
Quite a few options for purchasing work gloves on-line. Just search "work gloves". You can often find deals on them on-line or at hardware stores but don't worry about paying $20 or more per pair for really good ones. There is a ton of variation in quality in these work gloves and the more expensive ones tend to last longer and feel better.
If you are having trouble getting the drum out of the tub then you will want to set the tub on the ground (smooth) with the shaft sticking up and then slip something in between the plastic housing and the ground but leave the metal tub hanging in the middle. Make sure you support the plastic casing evening and fully as it can break. Then use a piece of wood or oversized socket to allow for each pounding of the shaft to get it out. Use a smaller socket once the shaft slips into the housing.
After wetting it a bit, sand it evenly until you can slide the bearing off the shaft. You can also grind the inner race on the bearing and basically break it off but it isn't necessary to do that and you may not have a grinder. Once it is off, go over the whole shaft and clean it up nice with oil and sand paper so the new bearing slides on nicely with a little oil.
Steve, If the gap or play is very minor then you can use silicone or something like jb weld, etc. I would only do this if the gap is very minor. Ideally, you would pre assemble it this way to make sure the bearing is centered on the shaft. Just install it with a little bit of assembly lube on the bearing so you can take it back off after you get things set in place. I would not wait for everything to harden to remove the bearing.
David, You can but it is not necessary. Any grease that ends up on the outside of the seal will end up on your clothes. So, if you coat the shaft with grease & then slide it in, then the seal will swipe most of the grease & leave it on the water side of the seal which will leave it to end up on your clothes. If you want to apply grease on the seal then you can run your finger on the inside of the seal w/ a little grease before assembly but just make sure the grease ok for use on rubber. Jerrod
sdfollett- The process is the same to replace the spider. You still would want to replace the bearings and seal as they will be damaged if the spider is broken. The issue is that you may have to purchase the drum assembly also. Some of the spiders are sold separately but most are in an assembly with the drum for around $200.
Eric - I would suggest getting the drum and spider combo since you can't by just the spider anyway. You will get the new shaft and not have to deal with trying to repair yours. It is questionable if you could actually get everything lined up as needed in order to make it work and not leak anyway. The drum / spider combo is a little over $200 and can be ordered on-line.
That is good input. If the door is not left open when not in use then it can build up mold. This isn't nearly as common on the front loaders however as the underside of the top loaders is nearly impossible to breath out to get rid of moisture.
The shaft often gets lodged into the bearings and requires a bit of beating to get it out. What you need to do is lay out some sort of support for the tub edge to sit on. You want the shaft end up and the open tub end down but the stainless tub should be suspended (hanging) with the support sitting on the edge of the tub. You want to security support the plastic tub all the way around so it doesn't break. Then use a block of wood and beat the shaft down pushing it out of the assembly.
Suzanne- The worst I have seen is that the plastic housing can break if the bearings get bad enough. This is caused by the rotation of the drum while off balance or off center and with piece of things coming apart and getting caught between the drum and the housing. If the housing breaks then it is quite a bit more expensive to fix as you have to replace the housing.
Richard, It is likely not the same issue if the clunking is strong. You can pull the belt and spin the motor by hand to see if there is anything weird. It should spin nice and free and make little to no sound. You spider could be cracked and you may not have noticed it in the assembly disassembly or it could be that it was cracked and it may have broken when you put it back together. Open the door & see if the drum moves up & down or front to back at all. Let me know what you find. Jerrod
I went and bought a regular hose clamp, it seems to be working good. I also noticed that the hose rubber needs to get lined back up just right, or this little side-hole thing won't line up right with it and would maybe cause it to not run right. It's good to do laundry at home again!!!
The seal may have a retainer clip. You need to scrap and clean around the area at the outside of the seal. I have seen these be in two pieces before so check that out. The situation with the shaft is not as critical at the bearing race point but it is critical at the seal. You need a nice clean and shiny shaft where the seal rests so it seals all the moisture out.
Nice video, and thank you for sharing. If I may, a suggestion or two for anyone who may be watching your video and planning to attempt this repair… First off, don't pound on the outer race of the bearing as you assemble into the bearing housing. That's not good for the bearing. Make sure you are contacting the inner race only. To make that assembly even easier, you can place the bearings in your freezer prior to installing them in the housing. This will shrink their outer diameter significantly, and make installation in the housing easier. The downside to this is that you have to wait for them to warm up in order to install your shaft as the shaft is press fit into the bearings. Also, be sure to inspect the shaft for wear in the bearing areas. It's common to have wear underneath the inboard bearing. And if you have significant wear there, you'll put this entire assembly back together and it will shake rattle and make noise like crazy when you run the machine. This is due to the shaft rattling around inside the inner race of the bearing. If you have shaft wear, you either need to get another shaft/spider assembly, or find a way to build up your existing shaft using JB Weld or Belzona 1111. If you search RU-vid for this, you'll see ways to do a shaft repair using Belzona 1111. The shaft is a press fit into the bearings, and the video did not show this at all. If your shaft slides easily into these bearings, you have excessive shaft wear. That means a loud rattling machine. If your shaft is in good shape, you can make it easier to install it into the bearings by placing it in your freezer for an hour or so. This will shrink the diameter of the shaft temporarily making assembly into the bearings much easier. And, thank you for posting, this is an excellent video, and I appreciate your efforts very much. Please don't take my comments as criticism, please take them as improving on your already excellent effort to help someone else who may be planning to do this job.
Jimmy, If you are sliding the bearing over a shaft then you would only apply pressure on the inner bearing race. If it is going into a housing as in this application then pressure should only be applied to the outer race. It varies based on the assembly but you never want to apply pressure that is going to go across the balls or rollers of the bearing. Jerrod
Sounds good. I had the same issue recently with the original machine I fixed and the spider did break and actually broke out the backside of the plastic tank. With weight in the drum, it may make more noise because of the spinning weight.
Are you talking about the screws that hold the basket assembly together? Or, are you talking about the screws that hold the lower front cover on? Or, the screws that hold the wires on the floor of the machine? The only difficult ones here would be the ones around the basket assembly. Those can be drilled out. Or, you can grind the heads off. Once you part the halves of the assembly, you can put some vise grips on the bolts to remove them. Running out of writing space so will post again.
JCat- As you know, the bearings hold the drum in place. That is all they do. If they sag at all then it will damage the seal. The seal ONLY seals the area so the water can't get to the bearings and damage them. That is the only job of the seal. There are several factors that could effect the failure on your machine. It could be pits or scratches in the shaft. It could have to do with the soap or water. It could be other factors as well. You have to take it apart and inspect it.
Beware, before ordering parts make sure that your spider is not damaged or rusted solid! If it is more than 5-6 years old, it may often be a problem in addition to the bearing. You will have to tear it all apart before you will know the extent of the problem. Thank you for the video, wish I had this info before ordering the bearings. The tub is now over $400 and im not sure if it would be better to replace it,(it is a 10 year old washer) or just buy a new one.
There are a lot more things at play than the years in service. I have taken machines apart that were many years old and the spider looked nearly new. The big factors seem to be the water and the type of detergent being used.
@guitarboy507 - the shaft is likely corroded to the bearings. Protect the end of the shaft (where the pulley mounts) and the edges of your tub and pound it out. Wood is a good protector for both surfaces. Carefully pulling on the basket as you can tweak it out of round.
Harrison- I would check the depth of the grooves in the tub. If they are less than 1/2 way through the plastic then I would probably risk using them again. I don't see that there is a lot of risk if there is still enough material there to give it the strength it needs. I would not try to epoxy or do anything else with it if it is cut through more than 1/2 way. Those sort of fillers are not going to help the overall integrity of the tub. They will fill the crack but not make it stronger.
Part I----I bought a used top loading performa maytag that was beautiful inside and out. It looked very clean. But, I started noticing a mildew odor from the get go. I uncapped the rinse dispenser from the top and found black mold caked on, I took off the agitator and it was caked with mildew. Soaking did not help. I had to get an oversized flat head screwdriver to scrape the gunk off. I bought a new rinse cap ( for $5) that fits over the agitator.
@hnilickafan33 glad you got that figured out. for the wire, you may need to crimp it a little bit so that it fits snug onto the male side if it is the one i am thinking of. make sure you connect it the same way you took it apart.
Harrison, There are several appliance outlets online that sell the basket assemblies. Some of the manufactures are also selling the spider but most are not.
I am not sure I have any really good suggestions other than one. I have seen something get stuck inside the deflectors that are inside the drum. These are made of plastic and are screwed through from the outside of the drum. At times, things can get inside of them and when they are spinning, they can make a rattle sort of noise. Sometimes things get stuck on the outside of the drum but inside the tank also but you would have found this during the bearing repair.
Part 2 con't--The rinse cap was gunked with mildew it was impossible to scrape off. I used the flat head screw driver to chip away at the black mold that was on the inside of the agitator. I think the mold was a result of heavy use of a rinse/softner. The odor went away forever after I did this. Screw the cap off the agitator and lift it out and check if anything is growing there.
As long as the new bearings are not too sloppy, it will be fine. If the shaft has scores it in preventing the new bearing from sliding on freely then you may need to sand it a bit.
Thank you! It did, indeed, come out. I hate to admit it, but we did damage the shaft. We'll have to cut the damaged end off, re-thread the shaft, and find a smaller nut....right? Thanks again, Amy
Just finished and need to make some suggestions. Before you start go to Home Depot and pick up one of those 5 gallon buckets, flat crowbar, Channel lock 926 8' retaining ring pliers and a one gallon gas tank.
The squeal could be either the drum rubbing on the seal in the back or the drum rubbing on the boot in the front. Neither are probably anything to worry about and will likely go away with some use (unless it is something else). Not sure about the wiggle other than an imbalance that could be a shock or the load. Jerrod
As it turned out, Maytag replaced the spinner and shaft under warranty, since they don't sell it separately from the stainless basket (10 yr warranty). I compared new to old,(pitted at race contact surface) with a micrometer. There was little or no difference, so I could have reused the original with minimal risk of premature failure. Now I'm trying to resell the used basket assembly. - Harrison
continuing... the ends of the screws actually dig into the plastic housing as it spins. What will happen if you keep running it is you will have a huge mess to clean up with the tub finally splits in 1/2 and spills a few gallons of water all over the floor. Right not, it may still be repairable but you certainly do not want to keep running it - unless you can relocate it to an outdoor location until it blows up!
There could be an issue with the shaft like a scratch or something that is allowing the water through the seal to slow degrade the bearings. When you take it apart this time, slide the new seal over the shaft and look at it where it will sit when the machine is fully assembled. It should be nice and tight around the shaft and the shaft should not have any grooves or major scratches especially along the shaft in that spot.
gjferg- I feel it is because there isn't much else that fails on these units. Most of them are scrapped due to bearing issues well before anything else goes. I had a leak in mine early on but have been running it for years with the replaced bearing and see and a new main tank seal. Jerrod
Jerrod - The seal does not want to budge. It almost seems like there's 2 concentric seals. Until the seal(s) out, I can't remove the bearings. Also, the spinner shaft is rusty and might be worn where it meets the bearing race. I can send a picture of shaft for your review. Not even three years of use... I need the bearing and seal kit for MHWE300VW00 tub; (smaller inner diameter than the Duet's bearing set). Maybe the spinner arm & shaft if its too worn. - Harrison
If the new bearing is in that far already then it is very unlikely that there is anything obstructing it from going the rest of the way in. You need to find something that is about the same size as the outside of the bearing (you don't want to pound on just the inner ring) and you need to whack it in the rest of the way. You will feel it when it fully seats itself. When you pound on it, you will get a dead sound when it is down all the way.
Most likely a broken spider if the drum will not rotate. The spider is the metal assembly that connects the drum to the tank. It is common for it to corrode and break.
Agreed on some machines and depending upon the persons budget. If it can be fixed for under $100 vs. spending $600 - $1200 for a new machine then it keeps people going for a few more years.
Yes, there is something wrong if you are getting water through the bearings. The seal is the wrong size, likely on the inside diameter (if the outside fit tight) OR the shaft has a grove of some sort in it causing water to get through.
Jerrod - I feel foolish since I posted all this before I removed the inner basket. I assumed bearing failure; it is a broken spyder hub. Can't find this part anywhere online or otherwise. whole inner basket is expensive. Too bad 'cause the outer plastic tub is entirely repairable. Bearing actually looks fine, like its been repalced b4. Harrison
This is a common problem with disassembly. Thankfully there is a solution but it can be a pain. And, it may take tools you do not have. The bearing is essencially three pieces. The outside of it should spin for you then there are the balls inside that and then the inside is the part that is stuck to the shaft. If you have a high speed cutting wheel, you can cut the outside of the bearing off and the balls will fall off. Then you can cut and work on getting the side off the shaft.
@hnilickafan33 to verify if the seal is the correct size, check it with the one you removed. you should check the bearing sizes also just to verify all is correct. you can also pop the seal out and try sliding it over the shaft and verify that it sits down on the shoulder as designed.
First off, the bearings go bad do to the seal failing and allowing for water to get and destroy the bearings. The bearings are a standard seal bearing, the seal that your washer has is a OEM part, but we do have the right size. It just looks different. The bearings and seal can be ordered through us.
The front seal is really odd because I have never actually take it off the tub end. I always remove it from the housing on the front where the door seals. I know the connection at the drum is a slip joint that seals the water so if you take that side off then you have to be super careful to reinstall it correctly.
Amy, I am not totally following what the problem is. It sounds like the pump is cleaning out the water continuously. The only way it would do this continuously is if water was coming in without being stopped. If it gets too much water then it will continue to drain. If the water supply isn't closing when it is suppose to then this could be causing the problem... The pressure from the water supply is simply a open or close valve as the pressure comes from the street water supply.
Lauren, We ship the same day as the order priority mail so it is quick. We are shipping from the west coast so it depends upon where you are located. You can purchase the kit by visiting the web site linked in the video description.
Dusty- No grease is required. The inner and outer parts of the bearing do not move once they are installed. The balls inside the bearing do all the work and they are already lubed up. Jerrod
Excellent video. Glad to find after initial searching that the bearings and seals ARE available. Hopefully Ill get this overpriced and under-engineered washer working again soon...
Harrison- It isn't worth anything other than scrap metal parts if you don't fix it. If the drum and shaft are in good shape then you may be able to get a new tub for it. If you need front and back then new may be price prohibitive. But if you can find another machine then most likely the tub will be fine to reuse. Jerrod
