It's so nice having instant pictures we didn't back in the day! Oh yeah that's where it goes! Even the Polaroid cameras the quality of the picture wasn't there. Thanks for the videos.
I take lots of pictures when I work on a project. Because that one time that I don't is the picture that I need to put that specific part back together. Thanks for watching.
Very good video thanks for sharing, one note is that the dielectric grease is an insulator, it wouldn’t be recommended to cover the metal contact of the spark plug with it, it’s fine on the cable to plug holder and around the outside of the spark plug to create a waterproof seal with the plug.
Funny to watch people who dont do this alot with the harmonic balancer upside down and bending the bolts .You have to start somewhere I guess. Makes for fun & a great video ..GP.
just a tip: all you need is to spin the flywheel by hand to check for spark on these little ones. if it doesnt spark by hand, she needs some work for sure. those points systems are great... 90% of the time just a clean and adjust will bring it back to life. of course the coils should be replaced if they look nasty. great video hope it's running sweet still. love those angled weedless lower units!
A Shore my experience is it’s usually the plug wires that go bad but I put new in all my customers motors ! From wires to coils to point and condensers along with plugs and rebuild the air fuel metering device !
Are you draining the lower unit and pressure testing it to see if the seals are good ? Those are not OEM coils they are made in Germany which are better the the Chinese coils , so someone has done work on it before . Is the float bowl gasket black or brown ? Black rubber ones are newer . And that motor runs better I’ve found on j6c champion plugs . Nice video ! I’ve been doing repairs for years and thought I’d check you videos out ! 👍
Hint: Before you try to pull the flywheel, put a few drops of Kroil penetrating oil on the crankshaft and leave it overnight. Makes 'em come off a lot easier.
I have the same unit, put gas in cylinders and it fired up a couple times, also backfired a couple aswell, spark plugs are new and wires tested good, do you think I should proceed to put back together and move on to carburetor??? I do have another ignition from eBay but like I said the tester on both plugs lit up. Should I just change anyway? Unit was bought as project
Fantastic video, sure helped me a lot. Thank you so much !!! I subscribed to your channel , looking forward to your future projects . Great quality !!! Thanks
I have a 1957 Johnson JW-13 3 hp boat motor that I have just overhauled. Now, the throttle lever keeps drifting on me and I'm not sure how to keep it tight. I think it has something to do with the coils and the flywheel. I'm thinking that the clockwise spin of the coils is causing the drift or creep in the lever. Or maybe there is a tension or adjustment screw I can adjust. Do you have any suggestions?
Love the way ya bent the puller bolts and mashed the flywheel nut . Also like the fact that the wire really was ok and had to be replaced cause ya ripped the plug boot off ,when it was dirty points the whole time. Oh yea what an engineer!!!!! lol, hack!
Im showing my age and had one just like it when i was a boy. It is a 1958 ish not a 68. they were built very well. Easy to work on and were a lot of fun. Even put two of them on my 8 foot pram !
blondestrainger my 67 duck twin is exactly the same cowl tank and ring as his ! That shape ran from 54 to 68 and the only way to tell what year is by the model number !
Just to help you for a similar repair in the future:- The HT lead is heavy duty cable and most unlikely to break. The connections at either end however do go open circuit occasionally, and a small snip off the ends providing the cable is long enough will enable you to remake the connections. The contact breakers should always be removed and cleaned as with any of the older motor vehicles. The gap should then be reset as this affects the ignition dwell angle and hence the ignition timing. It is very important that the heel and cam of the breaker is lubricated. If left dry the cam will gradually wear and change the dwell angle/ignition timimg. However I must congratulate you on the way you managed a successfull conclusion without having the knowledge of a skilled motor engineer. Well done.
I'm thinking your prop shear pin is sheared and your prop isn't able to push the boat. There's often enough friction to spin prop, but not enough under a load. Nice project by yhe way. That motor will move that boat around 9 knots
using a puller. Tighten it up as far s you feel it is safe, then tap the main puller bolt with a copper hammer. tighten another quarter turn and tap that center bolt again. (99% success.)
all you had to do was tighten the puller centre bolt up tap the bolt head or socket with a hammer tighten a bit more and it would come off never tighten with any impact tool or wrench you was very lucky it didn't rip the threads out of the flywheel same as refitting don't over do things people get to heavy handed with spanners and sockets
2nd Hint: After letting the Kroil sit overnight, as you put pressure on the flywheel with your puller, tap the flywheel gently with a soft-faced hammer. Tap it gently, because there are magnets in the flywheel. Also, if you see the originial coils under the flywheel, it's best to replace them and the points. New coils are only around $17 each.
john The divine Ah, is that what the "weedless" means! English is not my first language and I actually never quite understood what weedless stood for when it comes to these little motors. Thanks f. your information!
These angle drives go back to the late 40s I have a '68 same drive. You had a choice. Lightwin or Yachtwin witch was 90 degree drive, lower gear ratio and bigger prop
whats wrong? i have the same engine, very small spark in cylinder 2. i just changed the ign-coil, and changed those condensators with each other. still just a very small spark
day late and dollar short, but if you ever have a flywheel thats stuck like that, tighten the puller to where the bolts have some pretty good tension on them and smack the center puller bolt on the top with a hammer (the bigger the better) and that will break it loose most every time
I'm working on the same one right now and I'm not getting any fire on either one so I'm trying to figure out some watching your video to see if I can fix it
@@TheGarageEngineer thank you sir you have a great video you should do more videos like this the other people on here should take advice from people like you because you're extremely clear on your details I work on a lot of motors lawn mowers weed eaters chainsaws all of that I can fix all that no problem with my eyes closed this is something new that was brought to me and it's the only thing I'm confused about but watching your video helps a great deal you're awesome
