Repairing A 1977 Williams Lucky Seven Pinball Machine - Chimes, Switches, Drop Targets Oh My 

18:45 my wife says the two symbols that look like a handheld mask "medium" and a stack of boxes "grade" mean medium grade and the bigger word is "rust" so it's telling you the pad is for removing medium grade rust. The two symbols are written in the more complex kanji but the bigger "rust" is written it the phonetic katakana to make it easier for people to read (and buy!) On the package itself, beneath the big blue rust it says: "Remove rust / dirt with an eraser touch."

You are the master!! You do such an awesome job explaining things, even though you explained alot of the material in previous videos. The explanation is slightly different each time. I always learn something new. Thanks Ron, keep them comming....

That chime is AWESOME 👍😎 VERY NICE

That's GALAGA in the background OH YEAH !!!!!! ONE OF THE ALL TIME BEST GAMES EVER MADE

Those chimes make me smile.

Ahhhh the chimes! The heartbeat of the machine is back. She sounds amazing! Great work on everything as well. Loving the videos.

Ron, how about putting small nylon washers to shim the dropdown target so that you create the same space as when you leave it loose. Just a thought, enjoy your videos.

The paper labels are riveting. Great video. Always learn alot.

Thanks for doing these videos! I really appreciate your effort in making these!

The "reviewer" voice is my new favorite!

Kinda reminds me of the mid sixties Williams “Full House”, but only for the score reels mid playfield. This machine is also a good example of how to do Mylar so it works, and benefits the machine. Great work on the boards Ronnie. …. I think you did everything right.

I would have never thought to replace the driver transistor. Figured either it work or does not work. Great video.

Your hunch about processing power is probably right. Since this computer is just an EM replacement, it has little 'intelligence' in the game, and the computer does most of the work of the score reels and motors, so most of it is just counting. Each drop target is a switch, and each set of drop targets is a switch so the computer is completely oblivious to the fact that they're drop targets -- they're just associated with "increase score by X" or "increment bonus".Unless it's a Flight 2000, of course. That one is smart enough to know which individual drop target was down and reset specific ones. BTW, I really love this generation of machines just because they have a great mix of EM and solid state which was ground-breaking back in the day.

Amazing set of videos, looking forward to the admiration.

I'm happy with it if you're happy with it. That was some great work.

Great work! Looking good.

que lindos recuerdos de niñez, le felicito por su trabajo y sus ganas de enseñar. MAESTRO

For those of you who don't know how a lamp matrix works. I'll try to give a brief discription here. But before we talk about how it works. We need to know what it is and why it's used. The lamp matrix circuit is really a circuit called a "scanned multiplex matrix" or SMM. The reason for doing this is to save on the number of wires and driver circuits needed to drive the individual lamps. lets say you want to drive 100 lamps. You would need 100 driver units and 101 wires to run to each of the lamps if you were to do this the traditional way. However, if you arrange this into a 10x10 matrix instead. All you will need is 20 drivers and 20 wires(10 for the rows and 10 for the columns.), and of course a diode at each lamp(100 diodes). As you can see. This equates to about an 80% savings in complexity and cost. There is a catch to this however. One of these groups of rows or columns must be scanned. It doesn't matter witch one you choose, but you have to choose one for the scanning process. On the one that you choose to scan. You can only have one of the 10 circuits turned on at a time to avoid bleed-over. The idea is to scan it fast enough that you eyes can't see it flicker and to take advantage of the fact the an incandescent lamp still glows a fraction of a second after the power as been cut. As you can probably tell. Our matrix setup will only let us turn on a group of 10 lamps at a time. That mean we're only getting about 10% duty cycle time on our lamps. Let's say that we're using 5 volt lamps. In order to drive our lamps to full brightness on 10% duty cycle. We would need a supply of 50 volts and yes we are hitting each 5v lamp with full 50 volts. Now you might be asking, how is this possible without blowing up the lamps. Well, if the scanning process is running fast enough. The 50 volt pulse that's hitting the lamp should be short enough to keep the lamp from heating to critical temperature and burning the filament out.

20:30 "This isn't really plastic..." It's probably "bakelite". Bakelite has been around for over a century and IS a plastic, but is more durable than the plastics we are familiar with today.

Very cool machine

The Chimes definitely sound crispier after you replaced the 2 drivers.

That little circuit board for the drop Target. Kinda seems to have a electrical mechanical EM design.

Love that sound‼️®™️ ❤️❤️❤️

Love the slot machine bonus reels in this table. I know I've seen a table with this feature in the eighties somewhere.

Sounds and looks good to me. Great video Ron.

Today’s video ended in a Marvel movie fashion. Gotta stay until the end for that! THANKS RON!

Issues like that drop target used to drive me up the wall. I always prefer to have some thing NOT work at all, as apposed to only working sometimes... Great video, thanks for sharing your process. Also, which of your other video's goes over the fuse mod? I've actually never done that before but if this Phoenix needs it I'll do it. Have a great day. -David

I think woodblocks would sound nice in one of these machines in place of the chimes. There would certainly be enough space in the bottom of the machine for a mechanism to strike them.

like your admirations!

It just occurred to me- The Price is Right show must be using pinball chimes in their games!

If I recall, the Williams matrix has a sort of soft start circuit where the bulbs are lit up a little more slowly and that is a lot gentler on the filaments in the bulbs. I don't really recall how it works, but I think they have a small voltage on them all the time, but not enough for them to light. Most bulbs will die with the voltage spike when they turn on so, flashing bulbs in particular, they tend to last longer when started up gently. I think this is the same reason LED's do not work so well in these machines. I am sure someone will correct me if my memory is wrong though :)

I always thought it was funny they used the surplus of EM match horseshoe part for the drop targets.

Having the "all dropped" signal would make software simpler; its an input like all the others, so easily coded into the game logic. Seems also not unlike what you'd want in an EM system. I'd bet the first few gens of digital pinballs carried forward much of the design philosophy and methods of the em's. But at some point it'd be cheaper to have the computer remember the game state and simplify the harness.

Now go get your chime box!

I'm sure they could had done a bit better with the drop target design even within the constraints of the limited I/O lines available. I think they designed them this way in an attempt to make them cheaper. I wonder if Dave Nutting Associates was involved in their early solid-state designs?

JOE CLASSIC< you mentioned that williams lamps last long life span compared to the ballys and stern lamps. Do you know which manufacture williams used for lamps and which manufacture ballys used for lamps? I'm guessing they are using a Double rated Voltage lamp in a half voltage circuit to make them late longer. If the lamp bulb is rated for 18 volts but being used in a 9 volt circuit it will last longer I'm guessing but also more dimmer lighting because of the half power.

The product's name is "Savidor" "Remove rust stains with an eraser touch" and then "Rust on Bicycles, Etc.", "Dirty tile joints", Rust on Ski Edges, Etc." you get the drift. On the back it says not to use it on plastic or soft surfaces. Mainly lists metals as appropriate to use. Don't use on painted stuff.

Question: if the bridge rectifier in that game has not shorted out in over 40 years why would it need that mod? Have there been a lot of Williams games where the rectifiers shorted out?

Does... Does that machine actually sing your "Microfarad" melody when the game is over?

I am from Greece 🇬🇷 and I have the same machine..looking for the manual..thanks

サビ取り "Sabi tori translates to "Rust Removal"

I don't think I have ever seen you work on a GALAGA or a Donkey Kong I will have to search your videos for those 2

Hey! Did you do the fuse mod on that one? You forgot the fuse mod! ... Oh... Sorry!

i have one of these lucky 7 machines and the plastics are messed up and cracked any idea where to get replacements?

Absolutely love those "sexist" graphics‼️®™️ ❤️❤️

Being a union projectionist back in the day this was stressed and people...." apprentices " didn't listen to it, if it works don't fix it❕don't take something apart to see why it works‼️®™️🧐🧐🧐

How about shims to move the board to a desired height? I'm sure loose is fine but loose could become undone over time I'm probably talkin out my butt but loose don't seem right. Just chiming in ha very nice table 👌

I know exactly what's wrong with it, it's several thousand miles from me… I would not have thought that changing the transistor would have fixed the drop target, I guess that's why you're the pinball fix-it god!

The police probably were coming because of your a lousy jokes‼️®™️ 😂😂😂

@52:34 :-D

Yodelayheehoo

My 3 Gottlieb System 1 games eat light bulbs. Almost every time I go downstairs to play pinball, seems like I'm changing out yet another dead one. I by #47's 100 at a time