This is me today lol. I did almost the same damage to my own elite 2 years ago and did try this before but still had my amazon 70w iron lol. All new tools and skill now lol, fingers crossed. Really great repair.
For how many number of years I have been watching yourtube, this is my first comment. I have to tip my hat to you because thats some impressive work. I just ran into a similar problem but it was only one. So I am going to attempt it now.
Nice job. I’d be checking them deadzones though, I find I’ve got to chop and change potentiometers to get the deadzones sometimes under say 0.5%. A lot will show readings of over 0.16% causing drift . Especially in games like warzone on lowest deadzone settings . Other than testing the ohms on the pots , chopping and changing , trying to get the same readings , it’s a bit pot luck what deadzones you get when replacing the potentiometers
Thanks and solid advice! I don't know why I didn't show the deadzone test in the video. I almost never do but I should start. I have a little box full of replacement pots and I always measure them with a meter before using them then I actually use warzone with high sensitivity and low drift to really test it lol. I swear, using the map in warzone is the best test.
Sooo glad I found this vid fella, thank you. I am currently trying to do this exact repair as well replace c25 and d28 components. I was wondering if you could tell me what diode is d28 and the value of cap c25 please chap.
Amazing, love he acknowledge the first guy effort, i totally understand these potentiometer are really difficult to remove safely i scew up a couple of my own pad from not patient and ripping the suface off, u grow from there, learn from mistake, i did, so will anyone, just keep trying.
Count this comment towards the 20, but not for the giveaway as I am on the other side of the planet xD I just wanted to show support for your work, I really learned a lot about controller repairs from you!
Make sure your iron is at a reasonable temp, I usually keep mine at 410-430, try to be as quick as possible and don't apply a lot of pressure to the joints with your iron. Too much heat, long dwell time and too much pressure can weaken the pads and cause them to lift
I would like do this in my PS4 controller, I had broken the trails of analog stick when I'm trying to replace it. Now, if I have this skills and knowledge 😢...
Id love to know how you got that picture so bright do you have some time of special mounted bright light that's ideal for this kind of work? I need something for working in a computer case or doing soldering. Any recommendations? Also that box is awesome. I'm trying to fix an elite controller right now but for some reason the sensitivity is really high and nothing I do within Xbox Accessories will fix it. With the slightest movement it goes to 100%. You can tell there is a huge difference between this controller and a regular one. Have you ever run into this problem before?
I'm experiecing this is issue right now with my step brother's controller I"m repairing I replaced the analog stick but after replacement the right stick's y-axis is stuck at +%100 (upwards) and will not go any lower. I think I can't see any obvious trace damage but I think I did apply to much heat to long (mostly due to the awful lead free solder that got stuck in one of the vias and wouldn't wick out. sadly I didn't have a solder sucker on hand so it was a pain to clear the via.
@@Solder_king I ordered a new tip for my Hakko FR-301 desoldering pump a couple of pads i was working on it looks like some of the mask burned off but the pad and traces look good. I tried wetting the solder with ChipQuik to lower the melting temperature but sucking up the solder the sticks did not want to come out. I never had these issues with the 360 pad but xbox one controllers for some reason are hair pulling furstrating to remove the pots. wondering if they made the via holes just a bit too tight and with the lead free solder requires intense heat to melt and pull the vias through. I tried using goot wick but I haven't had good luck with this purple wick. I think next time I"ll go with chemtronics. I can show you a picture of the PCB, what's ur E-mail addr?
@@oOignignoktOo1 For some controllers, elites included they made the holes really small which doesn't allow much room for solder flow. They also decided to run connection on opposite layers which again doesn't help. You can email me at solder_king@outlook.com :)
@@oOignignoktOo1 i just repair a series x controller yesterday, and yes the holes from the potentiometer are really horrible, one out of 3 pins i always have difficulty flowing the solder clean it took me along long time with patient and time. In the end i use a tool call "Vacuum Solder Sucker" goes around usd 6? it basically a cheap solder with sucker build in. Just place it on top a bolt through solder point wait for it to melt and press the sucker, it suck it out clean, took many attemps, by adding flux , adding new solder. These holes inthe new controller are horrible for sure, i have zero luck with solder wick too.
Thanks! :) I suggest adding fresh solder to the joint you're trying to wick up, then add flux. It should wick up pretty easily. Especially if you keep your iron tinned during the wicking process.
Is it to late for the give away I'm in Newfoundland canada and can't find a used controller anywhere and keep the videos up your a great help and explain everything clearly
Wow. Another awesome video. I just replaced my first thumbstick about a month ago with the help of your videos and it works perfectly now. Keep up the good work. Before we know it you'll be hitting 100k subs!
My god this is deetermination, patience & years of skill just on the solder side. That there is a franken pad on its last legs now if the pots go in the future surely it wouldnt be worth attempting to repair that board again for the effort its worth. Great example of electrical surgery if ever ive seen one.
Can someone tell me what that shiny gray thing is that is a square with an other square coming out of the top. It is on the left side in like the middle. Mine broke off and I want to see if someone shows how to fix it
@@Solder_king 1:14 the silver thing on the right that looks like a square with another square lookin price coming out of it at. I’m not sure what it is or where on the board it is because I don’t know this stuff completely I was just wandering because I want to see if I could fix mine that came off
Great help. I've got a few series 2 pads I've been practising on, there a real mess, but I would like to make a proper learning mission to fix them now I'm a bit better. Do you have or know where I can get any schematics or diograms, so I know whats going on and where the connections should be. Thanks.
