Repairing a GM cluster someone tried to repair that was sent off to repair. 

And is still working great. Thanks! Just saw your video about how to contact you. Thank you for taking on my cluster repair although I was out of your physical area. I realize now I should have contacted a Florida service tech. Hope you are well.

Yes, it does always seem to be the MPH that's mostly ripped off. It's going to be close if I make the dead line. Did you get my PM about the S-10 cluster?

Yep I'm at 975! Talk about cutting it close.

Jeff buddy I have been signing up all my friends! If you see a lot of Tennessee and Mississippi folks here lately then you will see me and my friends! : ) JamesYou are going to get the 1K and then some I believe as well! Well deserved for your work and efforts!

Thanks it's appreciated. Looks like I should make it, or at least be very very close. I still have 20 days to go.

thank you jeff

Thanks 👍

Its hard to impress me, I csn send ,, ship , u alot of thise if U would like the work, I own a very very busy auto repair Shop , and the places around here well there hacks , Say they can fix , then don't even call me , send it back un repaired , and then im stuck finding another source

@@frankmehl9990 sure. My contact information can be found here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T_2WnJMsZaU.html

Yeh, I've become numb to the "solder wont stick and now non of them work" message. But the more of them I do the less frustrating it becomes. That damn cat has no fear. He's just in it for the dead bugs that fall out of clusters.

Sounds like you have the typical pull ripped pad problem. Stepper motors do funny things when it doesn't have all 4 pins connected.

I checked continuity between the pins and the next spot on the board and they all had continuity, but I'll re-check them and may have to try your little "jumper" trick.

I'm normally open to fixing anything, but currently being kept busy with GM clusters.

Thank you!

Thank you its appreciated! The nice thing with hot glue is it can be removed if it needs to be. Although unlikely it will need to be because it's an X 27 that's in there

I noticed the X 27. With a cluster in need of extensive repairs like this one, only a fool would cheap out and not include the updated stepper motors, especially at the price for an entire stepper motor update kit. I do a few cluster repairs myself Jeff. Tell me, do you perform odometer corrections too?

I do odometer correction if I run into a cluster that can't be repaired.

Thanks!

jeffescortlx Good work! I'll have some of my buddies sub.. Quick question what can it be if I soldered all resistors but my cluster still won't turn on. Only at random times. Thanks

jeffescortlx also when is the cutoff date to go over the 1k Mark?

Would need some closer trouble shooting. Tough to do without hands on.

Under the new eligibility requirements announced today, your RU-vid channel, jeffescortlx, is no longer eligible for monetization because it doesn’t meet the new threshold of 4,000 hours of watchtime within the past 12 months and 1,000 subscribers. As a result, your channel will lose access to all monetization tools and features associated with the RU-vid Partner Program on February 20, 2018 unless you surpass this threshold in the next 30 days. Accordingly, this email serves as 30 days notice that your RU-vid Partner Program terms are terminated.

jeff I will have some of my friends subscribe to your channel my friend! Your channel is my favorite one and I watch you now I just found it about a month ago all the time sir! I will do what I can to help sir! You will see your number of subscribers rise this weekend if I can get it done. Thank you and awesome job on that repair sir! James

Same way as the older ones. Break it free with a twist and continue twisting up with a pry tool.

The bare wire I'm using is just light bulb leads. The coated solid strand is transformer wire aka magnet wire or coil wire.

Thanks Jeff. I am sending texts to my friends and working on getting you closer to that 1000 mark sir. I hope you make it! Thanks my friend! James

Bulb pads can be repaired as well.

Yes, the copper color wire is transformer wire. It has a thin enamel coating to insulate it so it will not short if touching a conductive component. The coating burns off with the soldering iron. Its nice stuff to work with.

Hey, have you ever tried out a HUD as an alternative or heard of anyone doing that?

I have not

@Chris - to answer your second question, the wire loop and solder bridge to the terminal acts as both a pad (mechanical connection) and electrical connection. It's stronger than that tiny little pad the board houses plate onto the board, as long as it's not a cold solder joint. Good, simple field repair technique (and I used to teach mil-spec soldering in the aerospace industry) but I would wind the repair wire tight around the terminal, sortof like wire wrap. Then again, this is not going out into space . . . nor would it be allowed past most Q.C. It would just be replaced with a new board/module if one was available and this would wind up in a surplus sale.

They don't necessarily get sold by part number. I typically just see them listed as equinox if you can find them.

The bare wire I'm using is just light bulb leads. The coated solid strand is transformer wire aka magnet wire or coil wire.

Thanks I use bulb leads as we’ll

You won't find one. Nobody makes a VFD that emits blue. But you can find aftermarket faces with colored transparency film over the display.

This would be more at ECU level programming. The cluster is simply only displaying what it's told through the serial data wire. I don't have the ability to do this mod. Also don't know how much lag you would see from when the ECU sends the signal until it's displayed on the cluster.

Looks like simple LED leads from some of those cheap ebay purchases.

The red/glass components is diodes.

Not really a easy way without the ability to do it on the beach. You'll just have to pull and reseat the needles where you think it should be. Or send it out.

@@jeffescortlx okay thank you very much I used a Diagnostics scanner and tried to match it up as close as I could

I'm using enamel coated wire. It's sometimes called Magnet Wire. It has a thin insulation that makes it good for electromagnets. It burns off with the soldering iron for solder joints.

Fractured solder joints. There is already multiple videos on RU-vid covering this, that's why I have touched on that problem specificity.

Thanks, I see them now. I will attempt repair.

I do, but replacements are more expensive than repairs.

I do not have schematics for the 99-02 clusters. But I don't see how that would be helpful on a jaguar fuse box board. Can you pull Somme numbers off the chips your trying to ID?

@@jeffescortlx Thank you I got the schematic from Delphi.

It's possible you knocked a component off the board, or dropped some solder on the board, or killed the microprocessor with ESD.

@@jeffescortlx Thanks, don't know what with ESD means, but OK. I would send the cluster to you, but since I have been delayed by this problem for almost two weeks I decided to buy a refurbished, or used cluster. It arrives on Thursday so I hope I can install it successfully. Shouldn't be any trouble, I've installed the existing one three or four times. I viewed three videos, but somehow missed yours. If I had seen yours I would have just sent it to you. Live and learn. Thanks for the reply.

@@dad004dad ESD= electro static discharge. In other words that chip is static sensitive.

Yes the silver is wire, yes the copper wire is coated.

Probably

Sure it's pretty common in 03-04. I probably see 4-5 dead clusters per week.

jeffescortlx on one of the two clusters, I discovered that the cluster started working again after I reflowed solder to the resistors to the top right of the speedo. Haven’t had a chance to try the second cluster yet, but if this info helps anyone, I’m glad to share the information!

@@92greenz34 there are several spots that like to fracture. If you watch my videos you'll see a pattern of me always reflowing the same sets of components while showing the microscope view.

Short runs is the left over leads from lamps, long runs coated magnet wire

Its the processor. Put the board in the freezer and it will quit, hit just the cpu with some hot air and it will work fine.

I’ll try the freezer and hot air ... ty again

The chip is obsolete from reputable sellers. I not smart enough to load the software on a new one anyways :(

Same here I’m just smart enough to do the eeprom .., ty

Yes I buy my parts in bulk from a vendor in Shenzen (SZDDT). But they are not geared to selling to the public, only wholesale quantities.

Lead emits vapors at much higher temperature than achieved when soldering, so no difference if he uses lead-free solder (except for solder joint longevity that is).

@@wtfiswiththosehandles Fume extractor is mainly for the flux vapors.

@@dranoelr I know... It's the op who suggested lead free solder is better for health.

My email address is listed under my channel about tab. Visible to Windows PC users. If your mobile only you can leave your email address

Full rebuilds are $120 plus shipping. You can leave your email address or find mine under my channel about tab.

It's just rubbing alcohol.

I typically have the iron set around 340C

@@jeffescortlx thanks for the reply!!! Also thanks for the videos because I really love the way you made the fixes on my 2003 Chevy tahoe, affordable and comprehensive by way on the point on content in the illustrations you give and ESPECIALLY the tips on the do's and don'ts!!!! I like to think I am a hobbiest with dealing with electronics!!!!

@@jasonturner4265 glad to help

If you look at the top comment, it has the link to contact me.

I believe that transformer runs both the high voltage (42v) for the VFD driver chip, and low voltage high current for the VFD hot wire. Try manually injecting 42 to the cap in the bottom left corner, see if the driver chip get hot.

I’ll try it .. thanks

Hi Jeff I haven’t had a chance to inject the 40vdc into that cap to see if it restores the display without running hot . I put it all back together. But if it does what would you think the fix would be ? Ty sir

It depends what component gets hot. That's your short.

10-4 ... I’ll give it a shot ... ty for your help

The bank of 7 resistors are only for the prnd321 and not the driver info display. The driver info display has its own power supply to the left of the VFD. Also check the VFD hot wire end leads solder joints.

@@jeffescortlx thanks for the response. The odometer is intermittent in working, if I tap around the mph stepper motor, it goes on or off, or on the board anywhere it will as well. It just takes a bit more of an jarring to cause the same issue

@@bumpinz yes that's typical for having fractured solder joints somewhere.

Could be all internal cluster issues, but loss of serial data can also have similar issues. Anything else acting strange in the car?

@@jeffescortlx i cant communicate with pcm

Sounds like you have a communication issue. Could be coming from any module that has a connection to the serial data wire.

It goes to every thing. ABS, air bags, BCM, ECM radio, HVAC.

I found it yesterday. I wanted to inspect the ecm harness further by the air cleaner box so I pulled everything out of the way and saw 2 connectors attached to the strut tower one of them was right on top of the shift cable. I flipped it over and there it was..... a rub through and another next to it with the casing gone wire exposed. I soldered in 2 new wires and everything works now!!! One broken wire caused all that trouble!!!

Don’t get a gm tech 2, buy a Autel or similar and get every option plus, it’ll be a 1/7th the cost.

What's wrong with it?

No, the needles do not start at the zero marks with no power

@@jeffescortlx I'm guessing you cycle power to the cluster then put the needles on? Looks like when power is applied they drive to 100% then back to 0%, then are they "zeroed" out?

@@stephenw5063 yes

I'm going to take a wild guess you have a 2003-04 full size GM?

@@jeffescortlx 05 hahah burban

LED's and no extra charge with full rebuilds. Rebuilds are 120. Mileage correction would add 40.

jeffescortlx. Ok wat if the cluster i bought works fine just need the LED upgrade and mileage corection how much for that ?

It already has upgraded x27 stepper motors?

jeffescortlx dont think so its stock

I had to stop doing partial repairs. I ran into too many problems. People would say "my cluster works great, just need this one little thing done", so I would quote accordingly. Than once I get my hands on it it turns out the stepper can't even pass a full sweep test. But the problem is 6 months down the road problems start showing up and it becomes my fault because I was the last person to touch it. So now when I'm in clusters I replace everything.

My first question is, why are you trying to change the miles?

I have the instrument cluster out of a junk car & want to reprogram the mileage. I'm in the process of rebuilding the car, I want to have the odometer with the correct amount of miles.

@@69easyrider Why not just use the original cluster, board or eeprom?

I used to send the clusters out to digispeed to be reprogrammed, but as much as it was costing I decided to learn how to reprogram & work on them myself, after many hours of searching for information, learning basics, understanding the concepts & tools I've got some humble knowledge to where I am able to accomplish doing them without destroying them, which included many trips to the junkyards. I don't know how you got so educated in the field, I have to give you much credit for your knowledge, especially if you had to learn on your own. I've worked with cars, rebuilt & restored, them along with computers over the years & one thing I know was not many wanted to share their knowledge. So when I came across you on here & you were one of the few who were willing to share their knowledge I listened & paid attention. Back to your question, the original cluster probably can be used but I'm always trying to learn something new & want to reprogram it myself, if I mess it up I still have the original. All the GM clusters I've seen are different than the Park Avenue, this one is just another challenge for me.

I see. Normally when some one comes to me with the question of "how do I roll back my odometer" I nope out of there. Because it will happen when you work on clusters. But I don't want to get involved with that. I just like to do board work and fix things, not break the law. Unfortunately I don't think your going to find much support or information on the park ave. It's just not a supported model. You could extract the bin file and look at it with a hex editor, but there wont be much information you'll be able to do much with. In the rare chances I come across a cluster like this that cant be fixed, I just swap the eerpoms.

Grabbed a connector from a junk yard, wiring diagram from Google and use a bench power supply.

Thanks so much for replying Jeff! I have a problem with my car's cluster. All of my cluster needles are stuck in the middle, and no power gets to it. And I have checked all of the fuses that are related to my cluster and they're ok. Do you think the problem would be related to whatever you did in this video? Please answer as soon as possible, thanks so much. 🙏👍

@@RomeenOmar I don't know what kind of vehicle you have?

It'd a holden captiva 2007 model

@@RomeenOmar I don't have those here. Never seen or worked on one.

Well I don't know what kind of vehicle you have. But 03-06 full size GM cluster rebuilds are $120 plus return shipping.

Ok.

I just added my email address to my channel "about" tab. I can't send you a private message because your channel isn't fully setup, but you can send me one.

@@jeffescortlx I would like to use your services if possible My email is wilmcall@aol.com

@@wilmancalles7565 my contact information is available by following the top comment link that says follow this link for my contact information.

My contact information is available here:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T_2WnJMsZaU.html

Thanks!

Full rebuilds run $120 plus return shipping. Send me your email if you want the shipping details.

jeffescortlx email is neldafrost@att.net Thanks

Email reply sent. No, I don't have a shop. Would be too much overhead for a part time hobby.

Yes. Contact information is available by following the link in the top comment.

5mm 12v diffused flat top.

Depends, what year is it? 2005?

@@jeffescortlx yes it is 05 z71

You'll need a new VFD display.

@@jeffescortlx ok thanks!

@@jeffescortlx would I be able to use one from the junkyard

Sorry I'm not familiar with that one.

Sure ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T_2WnJMsZaU.html

Depends, what do you have that needs to be repaired?

Minnesota

I'm in Michigan the upper peninsula just south of Houghton.

What's wrong with it?

I'm sorry but I'm not able to program the brake booster function. Yes it does sound like someone put the wrong cluster in your Tahoe. This would also mean your odometer reading would probably be incorrect to.

What did you use before the 951?