This video was a life-saver! I bought two of these years ago, and they just both would run for 10 or 15 seconds and shutdown. This video showed exactly how to get access to the wiring (I figured it be locked behind security screws or glued together shell) and bypass whatever sensor is down next to the motor (temp sensor?) Just cut the wires and bypassed that sensor and now they both run like they should! Thanks, so much!! Now they are actually able to be used.
@@Ducktrent Yep. Mine has went from a useless junk to my most used vacuum. Haven't had a single issue since I bypassed the sensor. You won't regret it.
This unit keeps shocking my hand when vacuuming rubber backed carpet, static through the handle onto my palm? Then the unit will not re-start. Milwaukee has been great, repaired 3 + times, then just replaced the unit with a new one. Now today the new one quit. Thank you for helping me to understand why I have been getting zapped. I was avoiding back and forth motions to reduce static build up, but got too confident that the issue was solved on my new one. Great unit other than this design flaw.
There's a thermal sensor and an impeller speed sensor for the motor which act as redundancies to measure the drop another way, and also to cut out the power if the temperature of the motor gets too hot to prevent a fire. The issue most of these vacuums have is that the circuit board and power supply itself warms up and on an example which has inhaled water before (even small bits of moisture), it lightly corrodes the circuitry going to the temp sensor and trips the cut off much earlier than is supposed to. If left with the trigger lock depressed you can observe a unit with this malfunction as it cuts itself out and turns on shortly after, over and over again. until the metal within the circuitry warms up to a point where it suddenly works again until the battery drains out as it expands to compensate for the corrosion. it's all really smart and really dumb.
I found the same vacuum cleaner with a blocked turbine in the trash. I had to drill two holes in the rotor at the entrance of the turbine and use needle-nose pliers to start the rotor with a relatively large force. Before that, I disconnected the cables from the motor and tried the electronics with a 36V/400W lamp, which works flawlessly. . The engine is running, but the bearing near the turbine has a large gap. Since the whole (engine and turbine) is pressed together, it is impossible to change the electric motor, that's why I decided to install one bearing at the entrance of the turbine. There will be a little more resistance at the intake, but that is not very important to me. In addition, the owner also trashed a working Milwaukee M18 battery with a label saying it was weak? The battery is not weak, but the electronics in the vacuum cleaner reacted to protect the electric motor and battery from excessive amperage. Greetings from Switzerland
@@BuyitFixit Just to add what is the most likely cause of the failure. The vacuum cleaner (air outlet from the turbine) was full of fine, white, abrasive dust as if the user was working without a filter! Logo, concrete and stone dust damaged the main bearing which blocked it. In addition. The vacuum cleaner was used intensively, professionally, so that the transparent part (most likely PC polycarbonate) became matte as if it had been sandblasted.
Awesome that u got this to work again. Dont have one but a bit hesistant since so many folks had issues. If i can bypass the switch or thermal sensor that would be an easy fix when warranty runs out but out of my element when it comes to mosfet replacement. Cutting wires would be the way to go but which wires are they and how do u bypass. Comments werent very clear. Pls advise thx.
The control board disconnects the battery negative from the motor when the battery level drops below a certain level to stop you running the battery completely flat. You could just join the negative from the battery directly to the motor and that would make it workz however with the risk of running the battery lower than the charger would charge it again.
@@BuyitFixit ok great thx. I don't intend to use for long periods of time so that's manageable. Already have an m12 which I though was small enough but still a little bulky when I carry it around and need to reach high places like the ceiling. Decisions decisions =(
Hi Nick, I already owned a few Milwaukee tools and saw some broken tools on eBay (It was actually a channel called @mymatevince who repaired a Milwaukee radio and I quite fancied one myself). I wanted to save some money and thought it might help other people repair their own tools if they had the same fault so I did a few video's on them. That's pretty much how my channel got started.
If there is one it will be on the motor. It's more of a thermal cut out. I can't remember if the vacuum has one, it may well be the Milwaukee fan I was thinking of. I've just had a look back at the video and there doesn't appear to be one. So I think the problem would be on the controller board. It could be that it's thinking the battery has run low and it switching off, as that's what the board was designed to do.
Thanks for answering. I have a Milwaukee vacuum cleaner. The problem is that it works for 45 seconds, sometimes a little more and it stops and a minute later it goes back to work. I ask you, could the problem be the thermal
I checked. No thermal on the device. I would think its the controller board. Try bypassing it and sending power to the motor direct see if it does then same.
I wonder if there is a way to hack in a speed controller onto M18 transfer pump? They made it way too powerful, and just collapses every hose I connect to the inlet, even hoses specifically designed for inlet side of transfer pumps. It would be perfect if a "low speed" could be hacked on somehow. A potentiometer style complete speed control would be even better...but anything to slow it down would be cool.
@@BuyitFixit Would you have any suggestions on how to do this for a complete electronics newbie? I've messed around with electronics here and there, but definitely not confident enough to know where to start. Could it be as simple as buying a potentiometer and just putting it inline on the red wire coming off the battery? My guess would be I'd have to somehow disable however it checks for low battery cut-off as it would just shut down if I tried to lower speed below voltage of a "low" pack. I'm willing to try anything, even if it breaks it at this point, because it's useless to me with no speed control.
I would put something between the motor and controller then you would not need to worry about the battery low voltage problem. A variable resistor would probably burn out or get hor unless able to handle the current. You could use something like one of those resistors for car fan heaters that have 3 speeds and a 3 way switch perhaps? Thete are probably better ways but more complicated.
@@BuyitFixit I think I have some old blower resistor packages that are burned out in just one mode, but still have a couple working speed levels. Good idea, I will use those to see if it's a viable option or not. Thanks!
It was a small mosfet. It's marked Q10 on the PCB. I can't remember the exact part code off hand, but you should be able to see it with a magnifying glass or jewelers loupe. I would just test all of the small 3 pin devices with a test meter to see if they have shorted or failed. The PCB is there to stop you being able to flatten the battery beyond the point where the charger won't charge them, as the batteries don't have undervoltage protection!
Hi, Sorry I'm not sure on that problem. Could the motor be overheating? I think there could be a thermal cut out on the motor. You could try bypass the small circuit board to see if that fixes the problem, by connecting the two black wires together. Be aware that you would then be able to run the battery totally flat to the point where the charger would not charge it if that makes it run.
I would try bypass the controller board just link a wire from the black wire on the battery to black on the motor and see if it runs ok. If so fault will be on the control board.
U still reply bro ? I got a problem and i been searching your videos and it dosnt look like u have my issue , is same model but cant get the mottor out , the motor bottom mat(nut) is in a weird circle piramid shape , what could i do
Yes I always try to reply to comments. I'm not sure what you mean about the motor. On other models it was just a nut on the end of the shaft where the fan attaches and you could stop the shaft rotating by jamming the fan to undo the nut.
Yes, I've looked at quite a few more things since (including 10 batteries that I bought) haven't done a video on those yet. I scoped the pins and saw they were like i2c comms. I'll have to hook up some software and have a sniff at what's being sent. The M12 batteries however only have a thermister and no charge control circuitry. Interesting that the M18 packs do not have over discharge protection! That is handled in the tool!
@@BuyitFixit thats correct, m12 batteries are dumb. M18 do not have LVD mosfets, they are in the tool trigger assembly. Read my subreddit MilwaukeePowerTools (not milwaukeetool, those guys are dumbasses) for more info
It would work, but it would be possible to discharge the battery below it's minimum voltage as it would not switch off automatically when the battery was flat. When you put the battery on a Milwaukee charger if it's below voltage too much it would just flash red / green and then refuse to charge it. Hope that helps 👍
Witam mam taki odkurzacz i po minucie mi się wyłącza muszę odczekać chwilę i znowu odkurza i zaraz się wyłącza i tak cały czas co może być przyczyną ??
Posiadają płytkę drukowaną, która odłącza akumulator w przypadku zbyt niskiego napięcia. Możesz spróbować obejść ten problem, podłączając czarny kabel silnika do czarnego kabla akumulatora. Jeśli to zadziała, problem dotyczy płyty głównej. Jeśli nadal będzie to samo, przyczyną może być silnik lub przełącznik.
