Check out Pacific Northwest Hillbilly channel for his CAT D4-7U videos if you want to know the purpose of this part: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b0wGs-bO13M.htmlsi=yPx7KgVxUsJtZeym Make sure you drop a comment saying how you got there 😉
There's also disassembly ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FGHjgc8xmYU.html And some more explanation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IV3ur6_NgMI.html
Good video, I admire your honesty. You could have edited the mistake out and nobody would know. Like all trades there's always an extra piece of tooling you could do with ! Thanks for sharing your work.
Unless you are really well versed at cutting threads on a lathe, my top tip is always start with cutting the threads on the job, before you cut away any other material, I do a lot of model engineering with many different thread sizes, BA, ME, BSP, MM & the amount of times i’ve seen a part almost finished to then be ruined when cutting the threads ! It’s soul destroying to say the least, especially when you scrap the only bit of material you had to hand. In this particular case, you could have chosen any suitable thread pitch as you were making both parts.
It went wrong because you have a metric lead screw. You need to keep it engaged. When cutting larger threads, it is good to set the compound to half (or just over) the angle of the thread so if it is a 55 degree thread, set it to 27.5 degrees then feed from the compound. That will make sure that almost all if not all the cut is done on 1 side of the tool and you will get a much cleaner thread. Obviously with a metric thread, set it to 30. Thanks for the video, I think I have worked through nearly all of them in the last two weeks after finding you channel!
Hi Oliver, As mentioned ref metric lead screw. The chasing dial gears are only compatible with a range of metric thread pitches. You can disengage the lead screw and move the carriage back but you have to wait for the dial to re-align with one set mark and not more than one revolution but best to leave it engaged. I would also wind your compound slide back to reduce the overhang, lock it and thus increase the rigidity. Another option it to machine a step on the face which equates to the minor dia and so when the tool touches you know you are at the correct depth. The machine the face to remove. Andy
That WAS very interesting and a very well done repair carried out in a very cold workshop! Brilliant! Threading on a lathe gets easier the more of it you do! You have got it! Just keep refining the technique! Have confidence, you are a lot better than you give yourself credit for. Phil, East Yorkshire
Oliver, set your compound to 30 or 29.5 degrees and in feed with compound for thread cutting. Use cross slide to just pull out and return to zero for next cut. It'll help get rid of your jagged cut thread. I enjoy your videos!
Cutting threads here in North America, we have to do the exact opposite as out machines are SAE based. So when we do metric threads we have to keep the half nuts engaged and reverse the tool out. For a guy that claims limited machining skills, you did pretty darn well.
Another nice repair video. I like your repair of broken items or equipment videos. I also like that you share your mistakes while fixing/making items. No one watching this video has not made a mistake or 100 and learned from it. Keep up the good work.
Another great video and was most welcome after CEE didn't post this week. On lathes with a metric lead screw (my old chipmaster), reversing is the only method as the thread gauge wont work. To be fair, it's the best method anyway. You may find that your dividing head has some short cuts on the rear for doing popular numbers like 6. Just check the tool height on that threading insert of yours. If it's a fraction high it'll rub and produce a furry thread. I did exactly the same this week. Your furry thread could have been caused by that, or spinning in the chuck, or getting pushed into the chuck but looking at the thread dial you might have missed the mark when you engaged the half nut. The cutting rpm could do with being a little faster for carbide too. You had a relief cut so you had time to stop and reverse the motor. One final thing, if you are using the AG inserts you'll have to go a tad deeper as they aren't a full form (i.e. made specifically for a 14 tpi thread), and they come to a point.The correct depth is for standardisation but in this case it didn't matter as you made both the nut and the bolt and they fit each other. Thanks for making the video.
Just amazing how handy you are. You must be an 80yr. Old machinist stuck in a young man's body. You know so much. Carry on and we will await your next one!
Nice job done. I'm looking already to the Pacific Northwest Hillbilly channel for a long time. His D4 rebuild was also a nice job. I found your channel by the WWW channel. I'm also following thew CEE Australia channel. Although myself I, was 40 years active in IT maintenance, installation and the last 20 years in sales, I kept my interrest in technical stuff like trucks, wheelloaders, draglines and big V8 race cars. I worked on those in my younger (and wild) years. Now I'm already 4 years retired and maintain old Ex MOD Landrovers S1, S2, S3 and Austin Champ. I've bought myself 13 years ago a Landrover Ninety V8 to keep the feel of the normal mechanical stuff. It went from a rattling car to a smooth running one after rebuilding the transmission, Engine and coach repairs. Your channel is interresting for technical guys and I like your approach of tackling problems. Keep up the good work.
Oliver as I have said before "YOUR VIDEOS ARE ABOUT REAL LIFE NEEDS NOT ABOUT SHOWING OFF YOUR SHOP EQUIPMENT OR ABOUT SOME OTHER BLAH! BLAH! BS" Interesting work, you having to cut imperial threads 😵💫😵💫🥴🥴😭😭😭Excellent work 👍👍👍. Thank you for sharing. Be safe 🇨🇦
Oliver, Good morning... Kurtis, in one of his earlier videos, mentioned the in and out of gear to reverse his lathe to make threads was what he was taught... I think he still does that... Sure saves from screwing them up... I watched Matt's video on the D-4... Now I'm watching his rebuild of the excavator... For not being a machinist, you can surely make stuff work very well... Dave
I have watched all of Kurtis' videos and to the best of my recollection he has always threaded by reversing the lathe. Unless you do single-point threading very routinely it is certainly the safest way.
I was typing that answer about leaving it in gear as threading is what I have done the least of over the years. I did a left H tailstock nut and left it in gear as I was not brave enough lol
Great video! I have watched other videos where the machinists use a lathe to cut threads. I have never understood how they get the cutting tool to enter the cut in the exact same place after they back it out. NOW I understand fully, THANK YOU!
You say it wasn't very interesting but it is very interesting to me to see how you adapt to the different jobs at hand you are very well-versed in your skills keep up the good work 💪👍💯
Back in my boat building days, an adze was the fellow to get the heat up. We used to feel sorry for those poor welders who would carry around a piece of styrofoam to put between their backsides and the cold steel. Thanks for posting.
Another great video Olly, thanks. If we weren't interested we wouldn't be watching. Well done working out what looks like and ancient indexing head. Nice to see other channels I'm watching mentioned - Watch Wes & Pacific Northwest Hillbilly - just shows we're all tinkering all over the world. Although I'd put yourself and Wes in a different class, for sure. All the best, Ian
Nice one ! Bit different 👍. Rest assured most of us would end up with 7 sided nuts or 3 ! 👍👍👍. Those dividing heads are definitely from the Darkside 👍😁😁😁
I enjoy following your channel because the "uninteresting" things are something I haven seen before, how you prepair the items all goes to make your work a good watch.
Fantastic - for the sake of saying something a little different - your mistakes - i.e. reversing instead of using dial for threading - is an incredible learning/teaching view/experience for us - nice Job young man - cheers
This lathe seems to have a metric leadscrew, if that is the case you have no choice but reverse if you want to cut imperial threads. The same thing would apply if the leadscrew was imperial and you wanted to cut metric. The thread dial is only useful if the leadscrew matches the thread you want to cut.
To us who find any fabrication to be fascinating, this job wasn't close to boring. Making things of metal to function as a piece of machinery makes for good entertainment.
Great video , as you say it's good to use different skill sets and change up the work load keeps it interesting not doing the same thing day in day out . Tig looked good from my point of view not everybody has the time to keep up on certain skills as they change for the daily requirements . Could be your next job needing tig could be tomorrow or 3 months time . Might be time to invest in a set of thermal overalls or you might not be able to move much with all the layers .. cheers for sharing the rebuilt very interesting
I had the same problem threading on my new lathe just last week Ollie. I did the same as you in the end, left it in gear. Re not getting enough practise TIG welding, I always say "The only difference between the amateurs and the experts is practise, practise practise." That part you repaired is definitely out of an old D4. I have had that same part out of my D4 a couple of times, not for repairs though, it has not needed it that one you have looks like it has had a very hard life. We are heading into summer here (half way between Sydney and Brisbane) and it has been in the 30s most days unless it has been overcast. Getting some good thunderstorms most afternoons. Cheers Mate.
Excellent repair. Back in the day, I used up scrap rod to make a selection of nuts to fit the oddball sizes etc. Just round or knurled if I felt like it. Same thicknesses to go in a wooden rack. Thank you for posting.
Hi Oliver, I’m just seeing the beginning of your video and maybe I’m wrong but you kept pointing to ARBY but kept saying ARAY and the levers or paddles were set to ARAY. I’m really enjoying your videos even though I have nothing to do with engineering,thank you for the content.
If you had a dividing head but no plates and really needed a hex you can indicate each of the jaws horizontal on the front side and then on the back side to get the six faces.
Interesting video. You’re an enterprising young man. I always used the “reverse lathe” technique for single thread cutting, when I worked in a tool room. Might take a bit longer but saves making errors.👍
Good day all round. You got to learn something new. And another ancient piece of machinery gets repaired using your skills. There may even be some helpful information in the comments. Lots seem to know what to do. Being only a wood butcher. I just enjoy the process warts and all.
It is real craftsmanship that you show. And it is real, with errors and all. You are real and honest. Hope your name snowball will also roll and give us some nice videos. stay safe and healthy.
Normally, if your leadscrew is metric you can disengage the half nuts when cutting metric threads but not imperial threads. Conversely if your leadscrew is imperial you can disengage the half nuts when cutting imperial threads but not metric threads.
There is a method where you can disengage the half nuts if you need to, eg if you are working up to a tight shoulder. You need to stop the lathe immediately (back out the compound of course). Put the lathe in reverse and immediately re-engage the half nuts on the same number you started with on the thread dial. So long as the thread dial has not gone a full revolution, you should end up in the same place as if you hadn't disengaged the half nuts. This way it is much easier to avoid a crash against a shoulder. Thanks for another great video!🙂
Exactly. Many also teach, who have been in machining all their life, that regardless of what the lathe is designed to cut, metric or imperial threads, they never disengage the half nuts although the method mentioned below by Jack_C_ also works. I don't disengage - I have a foot brake and my foot hovers over the brake bar ready to pounce. Nevertheless, good backside "pucker factor" when threading up to a shoulder. No time for distractions.
This is a great channel and I love your work Two points that may help your thread cutting 1. I have a Colchester Student with a metric leadscrew and you can not use the thread dial indicator to cut an imperial thread you must leave the lathe in gear all the time, I am guessing your Harrison is the same ? 2. It appears you are using the cross slide to advance the depth of cut on the thread, this will work of course but you will be cutting on both sides of the threading tool and it puts a lot of pressure on the tool and leaves a bad finish, its better if you use the top slide to advance and set it an angle and the tool only cuts on one side There are a million videos on youtube on single point thread cutting that will help Thank you once again for your excellent videos
Indexing is always a bit iffy on older machines-too many variables-- better to stop and reverse and keep engaged-- well done that man!! always good when spindle brake works well!
nice work there just goes to show we can all learn something new and be all the better for it showing your mistakes along the way shows how humble you are and not afraid to show us that no matter how good we are or think we are we all make mistakes well done on the thereding and all thanks for showing us the how to of it all Cheers
I think when your lead screw is opposite of the thread origin your cutting you leave it engaged and run it back on the lead screw. I could be wrong but I know it worked for me.
@@snowballengineeringa superspacer is from my understanding a similar kind of dividing head. But instead the hole plates and the handle that drives the worm gear with the ratio (like 90:1), a superspacer is turned by hand and has a pin that engages every 15 degrees (or more or less), so it is easier to use when there is not an exact dividing process needed. For instance use the dividing head for cutting gears and the superspacer for hex flats to use with a wrench. Honestly, i would like having a super spacer, but i have a dividing head with a plate on the front with 12 notches a pin can grab. So if i mill hexes i only use this plate and the pin, accurate enough. Hope i could help, cheers Chris from Germany, right now snowball land as we got 58cm snow in one day...
You are making life really hard for your self by not running test cuts with the lathe and mill, even if you're really well versed with these things life throws a spanner in the works every now and then. Always test prior to doing the real work.
I'll assume your lathe is set up with a metric lead screw. I think that's normal that it must be left in gear when cutting imperial threads. My lathe has an imperial lead screw and I need to leave it in gear for cutting metric threads, although I've never used that feature yet as the parts I thread I use a die holder in the tail stock.
John at DOUBLEBOOST commented his lathe will only do certain threads with the indexer others have to be locked in gear like you did. Something to do with it being an imperial lathe that "can" do metric, like yours
If my failing memory serves me right that thread is a 1" UNF, one of those threads that us dinosaurs used to use along with BSF, BSW, etc 😂😂. Well done mate, that bronze inner part will needs bushing soon. We've had so much rain coming down the mountain that it has washed down loads of stones which with the leaves totally blocks the drains so the road becomes a stream. The council do clear it but sometimes I'll clear so my wife doesn't have to get wet feet getting to the car. Take care 👍
You have probably already figured this out but for the other viewers. When cutting imperial threads on a metric lathe your only choice is to reverse the lathe with the half nut engaged. The change gears produce a very close approximation but you can’t disengage and re-engage like you tried. Same thing cutting a metric thread on an imperial lathe. I did a video on this a little while ago. How to Cut a Metric Thread on an Imperial Lathe For a Fire Poker ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdvbnn-1I_0.html You did a great job figuring out the dividing head. When you have more complex divisions Google “Dividing Head Calculator”. It will save exploding your brain. I still remember the formula from around 1980 when I learnt it. T=R/N T=the number of turns required R=the ratio of the dividing head (90 in your case) N=is the number of divisions you want. Then you just figure out which plate to use with the number of holes. 2023 just Google it 🤠
That crappy gummy stuff you're working with.........forget carbide threading inserts. Use a HSS bit. Keep the speed down, and use a lot of oil. Clean it all up with a metal brush. Dress it when done with a lathe file.
Tell me, why when cutting threads on a machine does the running shaft rotate, which gives feed during turning and the threaded screw? Or is this a feature of the machine? Thanks for the interesting videos!
Good stuff Oliver. You work things out well. I used to work out in the cold,but not anymore. But when you are young your body can handle it better. Gone are the days i would lay on the tarmac in the street and balance a 1972 Ford Capri gearbox on an Express Dairy milk crate ready to push up and throw the splined shaft into the clutch hole . One day you'll have heating and aircon in your shed when your channel gets the recognition it truly deserves. Keep on punching buddy .
Was very interesting to me! I really enjoyed following along & learning with you - I've never quite figured out the dividing head yet! Thank you so much & looking forward to the next one! All the best!
You say “it’s not the most interesting of jobs” and yet it was just as engaging to watch you rescue an ancient component, solving problems along the way, and keep a piece of kit operational, as is to watch you build from scratch.
